Installation of the new cylinder kits, crank, head, and timing up the timing gears, basically getting everything together and torqued ready to re-install the engine.
I've twice seen you talk about using wire for the rod bearings. I've never taken an engine apart yet, so I would love a close up of the final next time you do this job. Thanks for teaching me so much. My dad never fixed anything, so I learn from people like you.
I have another of these engines coming up in the spring once it warms up some to do so I will make sure to show a good view of the wires on the rod nuts when I do it. I am glad you are finding the videos useful, that is definitely a motivator for me. Thanks for watching!
Lots of good information here, thanks for sharing! The way you gripped the ends of the tie wire when you snipped it made me think you learned about that the hard way - lol
Hi Dave, Thanks again for the info. When putting an engine together like this, how do you determine #1 TDC compression to set valve lash? I assume determining this would apply to other engines for example the D282 in an IH 560? Thank you
When you are assembling the engine and line all the timing marks up you would be on #1 TDC. There should also be an external marker, usually on the front pulley, sometimes on the flywheel that indicates TDC, when you are at TDC on th e indicator if it is on #1 both valves will be closed, if one is open you have to turn the crank on around to TDC again to be on #1. Thanks for watching!
Only thing holding the main crank pulley is that it is pressed on? Mine has popped off a bit not allowing me to crank start my Farmall A. All I need to do is press it back on with 1/2 in coarse thread? Thanks
Up to about 1944 they were not a press fit, just slid on and were held with a set screw, check yours, it may be one of these set screw type and would just need the screw loosened and slid in tight and retighten the screw. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Do you not use Plastigauge to check rod bearing clearance? Also, do you not use any gasket seal on your cork gaskets for the oil pan? Thank you
I haven't been using plastigauge, it would really be a good idea but I have had good luck with our machine shop hitting the tolerances well. I don't use any sealer on the gaskets, I find if you put the new gaskets on dry they bond right to the metal. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 thank you for the reply. That info really helps. I planned on doing an inframe overhaul on my Farmall B. Took the head off yesterday and noticed that the sleeves in it sit flush to the block. I figured they’d stand proud of the block and that the head gasket would then be flush with tops of sleeves. In your experience, is this how this engine was assembled or possibly someone before me put wrong parts in it? Thank you again.
I just disassembled my 1956 100 and there were no wires or castle nuts on the rod bolts. They actually look like a locknut, and they seemed torqued much more than 40ftlbs. Does that mean it’s been disassembled before? The bearings are standard.
I think the 100s had the castle nuts and keys or wire but it is certainly possible that lock nuts were used. I expect that with lock nuts you would need to be over 40 fl/lbs to equal 40 ft/lbs with a standard nut to overcome the lock. Thanks for watching!
The crank is actually machined to match commonly supplied oversized bearings, in this case if memory serves it was .020 inches on the main and rod journals. I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Yes, the block is exactly the same, your engine will actually be a 123 when the rebuild is done as you will get the larger pistons and sleeves. Thanks for watching!
Good Canadian clear and helpful video, well done, I sub'd. I'm trying to find torque specs. for rocker (bar assembly), I've found most of the others. Can you please direct me or advise me . Thanks. (eh!)
I just go by feel on those so my smart ass reply is 1/4 turn before it breaks. :) Those are 3/8 inch studs so I think standard torque for 3/8 is around 25 ft/lbs, they don't have to be super tight just enough so they don't back off. Thanks for watching!
Hey, good day to you ,,, you the man !!¡ Can get a case # 55 loader on a good deal for my 1968 Ih 444 do you know if it will fit my 444 I can fab, a little , if any one would no it is you,,, like your work
I've never seen a #55 Case loader so I really couldn't say but with some effort I expect you could make it work. If you want a good loader that fits look for an 1850 or 1550 IH loader. Thanks for watching!
