Hi Cliff, you make great videos. Good information, good tuition, good sense.. On top of this you are an excellent presenter.. Regards, John [ from across the pond ]
Hopefully this repair will be a mini series, yes? Would be nice to see your finished product. A lot of us have had chaser drivers, header drivers, even dozer drivers breathing down our necks waiting for their gear to get repaired and back out in the mix. My welding really, REALLY sucks, but I’m a great grinder, and my mate was top of his class aviation welder who also did farm machinery when needed, so we worked as a team on many jobs together. My job while he was welding was to distract the implement driver until it was my time to clean & grind. Off the record, I had him almost in tears when he tried to improve my welding, yeah, it was and is still that bad. I miss the old guy, he was a real, fair dinkum character, but sadly passed away on the job, one of the few times I wasn’t with him, very sad. Cheers my friend, I’m sure your viewers would like to follow this project right the way through. 👏👏👏 👋👋👋 🇦🇺🇦🇺
3/32" 7018 --- that's something I can do here at home! Thanks for the lesson. I don't have to do anything as robust as that. But now I know I can if I ever have to.
From a Michigander troll here ( that means somebody who lives south of the Mackinac Bridge) this was an A+ production! You speak clearly, you explained very well, you cover all the bases, spoken just like guys I know and respect, which made this very easy to listen to, great job Yooper!
one thing ... dont know if you did this, but after welding the one side completely...flip the piece over grind out the backside and get a full weld on the opposite side.. then the piece will be stronger as you mentioned.
did a similar job on a cast iron front bolster off a 100hp tractor. grind out, drill your ends, preheat, weld with high nickle electrodes, peen immediately and cover to let her cool down over night. and pray ya don't hear the ping well it starts to cool and destess 😅
Nice and hear that in the U.P. awesome... Need more videos like this. Like to see 7018 especially in the field , being in the shop why not go to a good dual shield. Great job.
Dual shield would absolutely make a great option given I was in a shop setting! I don’t believe every repair will be as fortunate as I was to be inside a good building. I think SMAW is probably one of most versatile processes there is and I just wanted to showcase that repair as someone could do it in the field! Thanks for the positive feedback!
Well done. Thank you for being clear and to the point. Also , I appreciate your focus on quality and doing it right. I am A full time welder in a high volume shop. When I started at my job , everything was rush and getting it done . I get it , but I stuck to my style of doing things right the first time and making it last. Over time I achieved respect for the owners of the company and my coworkers as well. Thanks again for a great video.
That was great. I've had a few emergency repairs where I've told the guys this is not going to last and it needs to be repaired correctly. They come back and say it failed and I remind them it needs to be fixed correctly like I told them. Now I can share this with them and say this is how things should be repaired. Thank you. Awesome
I agree with all the positive feedback in the comments. I just think it could be edited down a bit better and shortened by half, there is a lot of repetition.
I for one need the repetition. It's necessary for little brain to understand, imprint and retain. If I'm in a hurry to learn, I'll probably also be in a hurry to fix it.
I noticed the part at the end where he was at a school. Then all the repetition made sense. Teaching school kids is different business than online tutorials and quick info for experienced pros. Nice work.
As a self taught out of necessity amateur welder. Prep is my friend. Farming equipment on my small homestead and vehicle/trailer repairs are most of my welding, with some fabrication. For years E6010 was my goto for everything but more and more E7018, E6013 and E7014 have found a place in my shop. E7018 covering most repairs these days. I still have problems fillings holes and bridging gaps. That said had I been doing that repair I would have "V'ed" out as you did but not to the point the gap opened, welded it up, flipped it over ground it out from the bottom down into my first weld so none of the "crack" remained and filled it again.
Cliff great presentation! You present the subject in a straight forward manner. Spot on repair! These type of real world welding applications is fantastic!
I love this video I wish the construction company I work for had the same idea in mind I am always fixing shit other people hacked back together "just for now" then never went back and did it correctly
6010 and 6011 and even 6013 works ok for now to get you home type stuff but a good Lincoln 7018 will make a dam strong weld and people say it has to be perfectly clean to run 7018 but I'm talking you 7018 will burn through way more crap than your told (from experience)
A tube before valve had a leak and all the sector had stopped....as fast as you can repair it.for my good luck the tube was empty.but for my bad luck the whole tube from the leaking was a mess.H2So4 had started to build wall around the tube..i didn't clean up it at all...my employers was in a hurry.i complain that we have to grind it first and cleaning it and shaping the place to weld,to see if there is porocity or a crack,and i need a fuckin grinder wheel anyway....they didn't let me.....anyway I weld the leak with 7018 over slag and shit.the weld in vision was not bad better than shit.but the most important,works still just like that.
A great video. I just suggested this channel to a new guy on the farm who wants to learn to weld, and this video is right in time for it! I hope to use these lessons myself as I build and repair things. I'd love to see guides on welding on loader buckets, as well as dealing with awkward locations on equipment. From the brief references to what different types of rod does, I definitely need to put together a reference sheet for rod type and application, in addition to what spark tests mean.
Excellent video and schooling on welding different metals, awesome job Cliff !!!! Tomorrow morning I'm trying to weld up a cast gear box that will have tons of torgue on it all day, I hope my welds hold, at least I believe they have a better chance now. Excellent and clearly awesome that you took the time to go into such detail with your work, thank so much sir.
i have family that run a small farm type workshop. there is a big difference between hack welding job and dirty in the field get it through the day type welding. farmers often do temporary welding so they can get the job done and then get it back to the shop for repair. those sorts of repairs are perfectly fine. the problem comes when farmers don't do the maintenance and those temp repairs become permanent.
@@TankToChest i usually find money is the excuse rather than the cause. i've had bosses who have lost $1000 in production because they would not spend $10 in repairs.
Yeah, Bob was more entertaining/interesting & funny. However, this guy includes more detailed info & is obviously trying to teach the material rather than just demonstrate & throw a few funny trade jokes in. This video probably taught me more about stick weld repairs than any of the other ones on this channel. Valuable stuff, much appreciated man
It's all about the prep, "buck up and do it." This time of year it's all about snow plows and augers. Gotta get that rust out or you're just wasting your time. Great Vid, thanks
Dope video. Im currently taking smaw at COC in california. Video it made a lot of sence. At first o wasnt sure what the best way about making the repair would be. Whether doing a 6010 root and fill with 7018. Or 7018 from start to finish. Everything else fell into place.
Preheating any cast is a must before welding! 7018 is the standard AAR requirement for all RR repairs but as you said 6010/6011 is something to fall back on in time sensitive repairs where thing have to move and you can’t do a preferred repair.
Good video.... But do the same on the back side. Gouge it deep then fill it up with stringer beads. Wide weaves look nice, but often trap flux. Weld a few support straps across the welds afterwards. Extra support in a stress area is always good. Ni Rod (Nickle rod) is often used to fix cast. Pre heating your cast is good, but post heating is important too. DON'T let it cool too fast. That'll cause cracks. Read up on welding cast before getting started. Welding cast is a tricky business. I know. I welded a LOT of it in a welding shop and was taught by old timers.
Fellow Michigander. Was a welder/ fabie for 10 years then got sick of the manufacturing world and got into the dirt world with a local/ larger excavating company. Now guess who the head welder is there 😂. Anyways this applies SO much to the dirt world as well. I can’t even begin to tell you how much old patch jobs I’ve cut apart and done proper
Very good video. My suggestions would be. 1) after the root pass I would step up to a 1/8th rod at About 110A for a faster thicker fill. 2) Baking the rods in your household oven for 30 minutes or so at 350F before use.. assuming you don't have a proper rod oven.
Haha. You got the farmer nailed down!!! Farmer turned welder here. Lol.. my biggest problem was over coming the farmer fix style. I call it wearing different hats.. each hat requires different thinking process.. weather its welding, fixing, or farming ... sometimes repair on a engine you need to put on your welding hat to think differently to get a repair finished.
7018 type rods are the standard fix for farmwork over here in Europe. We don't have 6010 type electrodes here. Esab has a good repair manual with different filler metals for different applications. Problem is that there is just too many different types and they are rather expensive. That's why 7018 is usually the go to rod for most applications. And to be honest my welds haven't failed
We do it 5 times to make it right. No just joking you are on point. It’s one thing to temporarily fix something in the field but down time we got to fix it right by myself or the professionals.
I remember working on construction sites and welders didn't even clean off the dirt....using 7018 trying to weld thru mud and wondering why they have to fix cracks every 2 days 🤣 great upload
Wait I thought you said that was a farmer's repair. My dad always taught me to put some pieces of rebar in that groove to cut down on the welding time And bridge the gap crossways with a couple of pieces of angle cut off an old bedframe to make it strong. I don't think you know what you are doing (heavy sarcasm).
That is a gold comment! So true, fill it in with rebar and then just cover it with globs, it’ll hold. Glad my father taught me to like the video, take the time to weld it right, might have been burning the midnight oil but it was fixed right so the next night we weren’t fixing it again.
Escanaba? Way up north? This transplanted Yooper living in packer land was born and raised father north than Escanaba. I came from Grand Marais. Great video!!!
I just watched your video. Great information. I haven't started stick welding yet. I have a small stick/tig welder. (I was almost killed by my wife) for getting another welder. I had two already. I want to see more of your videos. I learned a lot from this one. Thanks very much.
Hey there bud. I'm another troll welder/tool maker. Years ago I took a maintenance welding class(1999 or 2000) at Macomb Community College and we did a bunch of casting repair and dissimilar metal welding. I'd like to see your use of 312 SS rod on cast iron to mild steel.
I was the oldest on the farm and broke my cousins go-cart at age 10. We had a crank top Lincoln welder and two boxes of rod. After some hammer work, I wrapped a chain around it like a turnakit. What did I know? My step dad & his father had day jobs that didn’t involved welding, they simply knew it had to be done when things broke. I fixed it and after grinding & rattle can action. I had some pride to keep to myself. I always said that a gamer who could not fix the equipment were doomed to fail. Look at todays fit with “Right to Fix” legislation. I enjoy listen, watching but wished I could see the final product. As you, need to plan time in Iowa, KS and NE to visit a “trashing Bee” to watch 10 ton machines do nothing other than take heat, create steam and rotors motion. Hundreds to look at as many show off their IH, Case or 1919 John Deere as if they had a convertible GTO, serial #1. Look, but don’t touch. Ok, you get my point! Great video, wish we had a shop class. DK, Omaha
I have one of the old Sears models and tried learning on it. It was no doubt a tough learning curve. A few months later I bought a cheap mig/stick machine and could not believe the difference in ease of welding. Try SMAW again with that Vulcan, you should be pleasantly surprised at the difference.
Amazing video but I have a question! The preheat process, and welding temps followed by a slow natural cool down in such a high carbon piece of metal is basically annealing it and taking away it's original hardness. Because you're dealing with such hard metal in the rest of the piece do you have to temper the repaired section to reach original hardness or do you want the flexibility in the repaired area offered by the welding procedure to limit future cracking? Hope that makes sense, I'm still new to welding and metal work.
Muito obrigado. Tento passar esse tipo de conhecimento para os soldadores de manutenção, mas as cobranças pelo prazo de entrega sempre os levam a negligênciar as boas práticas na soldagem. Obrigado. Amazônia, Brasil.
What about a 6010 root pass to dig in then fill and cap with a 7018? I've lived on a farm my whole life (25 Years) welding since I was 9 . Dad always used 6013 and had some issues, when I went to college for welding I asked and learned a lot so we switched to 7018 rod. But only having an AC welder and having to bake the rods for hydrogen was a big pain. So I switched to 7014 and have had good luck with using that rod. What's your thoughts on 11018 rods?
6010 would work good for a root followed up by 7018! That’s a great combo and a very good option for field work to get a solid base layer of weld down before you switch to 7018. Personally I think 11018 is a little overkill. If you have it use it, but it’s a bit less forgiving than 7018. Make sure to keep a steady pre, inter pass, and post heat if you’re going to use it! It’s still a low hydrogen electrode.
@@cliffdanis1521 Also wondering why you never covered any post heat or cooling information, especially for cast which I understand has to cool very very slowly.
Kelton this is cast-steel, different from cast-iron and is a bit less susceptible to the cracking you’d experience with cast iron. A little inter pass and post heat never hurts when moderated.
@@cliffdanis1521 Hi Cliff you mentioned 200 - 300 preheat ... for us "frugal" types is there a cheap way to know when you reach that temp in metal? Next question for high carbon content repair, what about a post heat? Is it necessary, what temp and for how long? Would some kind of crack detection not be a good idea (magnaflux or dye penetrant) after welding to confirm quality of repair before putting everything back together? I always wonder is my weld really good or just looks nice. How can I tell without xray? Lastly, when you show welding occuring without some filter, all I can see is a blinding light and a guy holding a stick ... can you try and shoot so I can watch how you are manipulating the puddle, where the electrode is positioned in the crack, etc.? Some weld.com videos are split screen (thats nice) or some other tech that allows really seeing the weld occuring. Thanks for this relavant content, I will head to the garage to weld up a box scraper for my tractor.
Good advise. I have an old cast iron scalding pot that is cracked. I se that after I do my cleaning and grinding I need to heat that area before I start welding with my 70-18 rod. This is an old cast iron pot. Any tips and advise? The crack is approximately 10”, I haven’t dug it out of the dirt yet.
Keep in mind the repair on this video was made on cast steel, different from cast iron. For a cast iron repair you would need a nonferrous alloy for your filler metal. Either bronze or nickel work well. Not 7018!
