I love the whip and pause of the 6010 and sound of bacon cooking with the 7018. Textbook technique. Great video for those of us beginning welders. Could the 7018 be run at 125 amps or is the 130 best for this application?
125 is ideal temp for 7018 but I have a lincoln eagle portable welder/generator and like the ranger it has range settings that's hard to calculate exact heat input with the dial
I smashed a corrugated 3/4 in rebars, 100 cm struts to zinc 3/16 c runners with my little Total 250 AC , at 115 amps and some, 9lbs, of 6011 1/8 , to build a ramp 7 ft long with an18in rise, the " 11s made it Childs play, and I will never be without it again. it demolished the zinc coat and rust on rebar like it was not even there. Always learning from all experienced guys, Great work.
I'm a field mechanic, on my welder I have a piece of scrap metal welded to my ground, I then weld that piece of metal through dirt, paint, rust, water, all that good stuff.
How he said “eyeballs” as a warning to the impending flash reminded of the time 65 years ago when I was 5 or 6 years old when I was in a welding shop with my dad and he sternly warned me about looking at the light since it could blind me. Well, the restroom was on the other side of where they were welding and I stood there scared to death and I subsequently peed my pants. 😂😂
now that is funny, I remember at the same age being warned by my dad about the same thing, about the same year.......1957.....especially at stock car races where repairs were going on, I think that is why I became a weldor.....Paul B
Well, in my case it was about 45 years ago but my Dad did the same thing!!! No, I didn't run to the restroom. As I recall it was a snowmobile speed shop. I just looked away from the arc when it happened.
I work in fertilizer business and this is a lot of help!! It's impossible to get some of the metal clean on some of this old equipment and you've never seen real rust till you look at a fertilizer spreader!! Thanks and would love more videos like this! An old timer at work told me to use 6013's and turn the heat up and they'll blow through the rust but it's hard to get it to look decent at all.
Great tip on starting the arc a little away to smoothen the tie-in for someone that is still trying to learn! And the transition going around one of the last corners was just really well executed! Well done, thank you for the video!
I actually love these types of videos! I work at a mine that runs Silica sand and Ground Silica and we have to weld patches on all sorts of rusted and are out things and you can’t over emphasize cleaning the base metal but it’s a reality that sometimes it’s not feasible to do that and this is a great example of an in field work around!! Great job as always!!!
It's amazing to me how much the look changes from that first pass to the finished product. I'm currently learning how to weld and I don't know if mine will ever look that good. 😆
Hello::: The 6010 welding looks like my finish weld. lol Your 7018 looks top shelf. I never took class, so I did not know to top of a weld one rod to another. Thanks !!! If I wasn't 72 years old I would go to school !!! Age is not the problem,, Arthritis is my problem.
Great video Paul! I like to run my 225's on the middle 145 amp setting and about 3-5 on the stick range dial for ⅛" 5p+. Little hot but good arc control even on rust. 🤘🏼🤘🏼
Good video, should have done one with all old metal. Bob Moffat did one a few years back which extrapolated into Texas tig. I think a joint using two severely rusted parts would finish off the idea nicely for the channel.
Thank you for putting this video up using a Ranger 225 (That is what I have) just glad that i am not the only one who guesses with the settings, haha!!!.....another idea for video, is welding with some old rod (yes i know....in a perfect world that is a no no, but i am cheap and i have LOTS of it and figure it is good to practice with)
Cool video. But with that heavy rust and no grinder, I usually bump bump it up to 100-105 amps with the first pass of 6010, becasue that really helps eliminate those tiny slag inclusions. It wouldn’t have “pushed away” the molten steel as discussed in the video. It just would have burned out more of the crap (impurities). Don’t be afraid to use a tad more heat on crappy steel like that.
That weld looks very solid! It's very clean and thorough! Would love to do it every time on my pet projects. Unfortunately things are a bit pricey where I live. Any tips to do it a bit cheaper but still good enough? I mean quicker and less rods?
I agree with the fact that there was no check for ortogonality….. that is always important when making such a weld in reality. Then it is useful to make the tacks with some shimming, so that the angle can get adjusted……. Before rooting. With my experience, heat may distort final angle if you make whole beads on one side only at a time?
He was simulating a job where it had rusted out. So in this case the column would be fixed and just getting it welded back down is the goal. Squaring is not an option. At least that was my take away.
I have a pretty big structural repair to do on one of my knuckleboom loaders. I am a pretty good welder not taught in school but I was taught by a certified welder from Duke Energy nuclear plant and others like that. I have a Miller 250 Bobcat. I only have an old fridge to keep my rods in. What I am getting at is do you think as an average welder with rods that are not properly stored will I have a stronger structural weld with a 7018 or a 6011? This repair I am facing is pretty intimidating for me with a lot of stitching and plating involved. Basically the frame of my loader near where one of the stabilizers mounts is hanging by a thread.
I love 6011s. Able to penetrate dirty or rusty sheet metal at low to medium amperage. 6010s require dangerous amounts of current and voltage to run. DC alone isn't good enough.
Great job. Thanks for the info. What changes do think if you where to weld it with a Lincoln "crackerbox" ? Is it even possible. I do not AC/DC or +/- switches on my old machine.
you would not be able to run the 6010 5P+, as that needs DC+, you would have to run 6011which will run on AC, as far as the 7018, you could run that, they do make a 7018 AC rod that may run better on your Old Lincoln as they are designed for lower voltage machines.....I am pretty sure you can get 7018 AC at the Big Box stores.....I know you can get Lincoln 6011 there...hope this helps, Paul B
Why not grind a little before to get down to some clean non-rusted steel? Also, what's the best route to start a welding career? Thanks. I've always loved welding and metal fab. I've been a house painter for 30 years and pretty much hated every minute of it. My business pretty much got killed after c-19 and now I actually have a reason to start fresh in my 40s with a trade that I would actually have a great interest in.
A fab shop helper at a shipyard is an easy way to get into welding. You'll get to practice and when you feel you're ready let the foreman know you're ready to test. Most will give you a chance.
@Paul Sableski I understand for a demonstration but it goes against everything we teach these kids. Next thing they are out there thinking its ok to weld mill scale rust and painted parts. And then wonder why they cant get paid top dollar and they wont follow WPSs because the internet said so. just my humble opinion
I have always used 6011 for dirty welding. Is there a benefit to 6010 or 5P over 6011? Sorry, I learned OTJ so I have done a lot of welding but didn't go to a welding school. One welding shop I worked at just did 6011 for dirty and 7018 or mig for clean.
6010 has a little more penetration , but is lightly less tensile strength than 6011 [a few thousand lbs] 6010 needs DC electrode positive and some machines [especially inverters] do not run it well, 6011 will run on AC, DC negative or positive and is readily available at Big Box Stores. 6010 is preapproved for code welds [D1:1 AWS] hope this helps, Paul Brown
@@ypaulbrown @Paul Brown thank you Paul, That was very helpful. I appreciate it. I have a Lincoln 210MP in the shop. I also have an old Lincoln portable but I do not fire it up very often. I may pick up some 6010 to keep in the shop and try some welds out.
Agree on the 6010 having a more forceful, digging arc. Runs smoother too (IMO) than 6011, but most cheap welders simply don't run it due to lack of voltage at the arc while welding. Also, the slag comes off easier with E6010s than with E6011s, IMO.
Nice welds. If you go too much beyond A36, towards high strength steels, you will start to run into hydrogen cracking issues unless you give it some progress with a torch first. Relatively thin, A36, nor much of an issue.
great job but I guess that would only be used if your hand grinder broke and it was a life and death matter that it had to be done with out making an effort to clean it up. lol but it was a great learning tool I def learn how to weld a rusty pipe with out prep ,,,, 6010 - 7010 but wish you spoke a bit about the polarity
Thanks for the video , pretty nice looking weld considering the material!. I note you seemed to be dragging the 7018 at some points, pushing the weld at others. Is it not critical for 7018, and if so is this also true for the 6010? Thanks! A.
Drag angle because SMAW leaves slag "Drag when you leave slag" but the push you see is when he's sneaking the molten puddle upwards to make the weld bead profile a little higher, closer to that 45° angle. If he didn't do that quick slight push, the bead profit would end up flat... like 25°. It's just something you learn.
Nice weld, but sides of the plate are warping up. I'd tack the corners down to something. If you bolt it down it might just pull the corners down and leave a gap in the middle. Very nice machine btw
Question on cheaper welders.? What makes an Arc Welder able to Run 6010, but Not Others.? Question 2... What makes One Welder able to Run at 100 to 130 amps on 110v, but others are lucky to Run at 80/90 amps on 110v.?
NO. 1 you don't seem to have enough arc Force-- or Your no where near hot enough. That looks like 3/8 plate with all that rust you should be blowing stuff out of your way to obtain clean mettle and float impurities out of the puddle. A 6010 rod is a master Blaster and a 5/16 rod would be the Ticket. And penetration is surly what your looking for. the 7018 cap looks OK.
