How to remove fence posts. easy way to remove fence posts. Remove fence posts by yourself. Black and Decker torque wrench review. #construction #diy #carpenter #woodworking #jesus #howto #blackanddecker #fence #fencepost #blonde
Funny that this video popped up (without a search), I just so happen to have to pull some posts here soon. The internet now even knows what we're thinking. Good video.
This takes too long and too much prep work per post. Better just to use a chain and high lift jack, imo. Imagine having to drill holes for 14 posts and sit there on each post pumping that hydraulic lift 100 times to lift it HALF WAY up. :(
@reverendcolonel395 Hydraulic jack can be bought for twenty five dollars. A high lift jack can probably be bought for seventy five dollars. The time you save with the high left jack and a chain I think would well pay for the extra fifty dollars or even seventy five dollars if you want to buy the chain if you don't have one. But if it's a matter of not being able to afford an extra Seventy five dollars then go with a hydraulic lift Whatever works for each person is what they should do But I plan to put a new fence up and I know. Definitely i'm not gonna be using these hydraulic lifts that I already have purchased for twenty five dollars each. Way too time consuming to lift twelve posts out of the ground With that method. Also using a chain instead. We'll pull the post roughly straight up instead of having it go backwards because you're pushing up on a jig on one side of the post.
Thanks Jack for your encouraging affirmation. Please subscribe and share if you have'nt already; so that we might reach the masses with God's word. God bless and thanks for watching!
Usually a length of chain wrapped around the post so that tension on it will bind it tighter around the post is sufficient. Works great on wood posts, and I've also used it a few times on steel posts and it worked okay but is more tricky to get it to bind. Oh and I use a hi-lift jack. A lot more vertical range than a bottle jack and it has a convenient hook to catch the chain.
@@rkf2746 according to their website: Hi-Lift Jack company produces two types of mechanical jacks, often referred to as Handyman Jacks, farm jacks, or trail jacks.
I'm not a believer, but I like your message at the end as well. I like the tool you created for removing the posts. This prevents one from having to buy a high-lift jack and a chain, which is what I had to do. Actually I already had the jack, but a bottle jack and some boards is less expensive and you can get a very powerful bottle jack for not a lot of money.
Occasionally that can happen. Often that can be avoided if you first remove soil that's on top of the concrete. But as in all construction things don't always go in your favor. My system works most of the time. But sometimes you have to break out the chipping hammer. I have a video coming out on that soon.
Awesome upload step by step instructions. Will try ur technique when needed. Bonus enjoyed application from the Bible. Kudos how well it applies. Anticipating ur next vid. Peace
In a rural area, along a county drainage ditch (deep and wide enough to drive a 4 wheeler in and it wouldn’t be seen by someone on the road) are a long row of steel fence posts. Densely wooded, getting a tractor or other vehicle in there wasn’t practical. Based on your idea, here’s what we did; 1 inch black pipe, one foot long threaded on one end only. Took a 90 degree elbow and screwed it to the threaded pipe. Un-threaded end was placed on top of the bottle jack. Wrapped a chain around the post and the elbow, then bolted the chain to itself - tight to the post. Placed a rock under the jack and pumped away. Yeah, a pain in the behind, took a few weeks or better (working a little at a time) without too much effort. Slow and steady got the job done (once we had a plan). Still wondering how YT knew I’d been thinking how to get them posts outta there… 🙂
Just trying to picture your set up.The threaded screw part of the jack goes inside the one foot pipe?Don’t you lose the advantage of the screw extension because it’s inside the pipe?Or did you put a bolt through the pipe for the foot of the jack to butt up against?What have I missed?Cheers from NZ.👍
@@patmiddleton3947The steel fence posts have small 'nubs' about an inch and a half apart, for the entire length of the fence post. [A] We secured a 1 inch diameter pipe about a foot long, in the vertical position, to the post with a chain. Be sure to wrap the chain around the elbow. [B] To assure the chain would not slide off the pipe, we screwed a 90 degree elbow to the top of the pipe. [C] Then we placed the jack under the pipe and pumped up about 8 inches, lowered the jack, undid the chain and repeated the process. The 8 ton bottle jack I used, has a diameter larger than the 1 inch diameter pipe and will not fit inside the 1 inch diameter pipe. The bottle jack lifts the pipe, which lifts the chain, which lifts the post. Wrap the chain around the elbow so the chain won't slip off of the pipe. Face the elbow away from the post. 🙂
when i worked for the power company we had a hydraulic pole butt puller that was like a large version of the bottle jack. it ran off the truck hydraulics. very good idea for the home owner or on the farm. thnx.
Helpful video; I love good old American ingenuity. You all know more about this stuff than I do, but instead of constructing a wooden bridge, could you just lay a couple of 2X4s (or a 4X4) across a pair of bricks or cinderblocks? Dunno if I am trying to be smart or just lazy.
Great idea. When I removed my 4x4 concreted posts I just dug out beside the concrete, pulled the post toward my dug out spot and pulled post out. Then knocked off concrete. Now I have my posts again
That is a good day when they come out. Now what do you do if the post breaks below the concrete grade. I am looking for a way to pulverize wet 6x6 cedar below grade where it broke off. I Put a d-ring and 10"x 1/2" lags in and the farm jack just pulled the lags out. Ideas? How do I clear that hole??
Not many people take out a perfectly good post.. most need to be replaced because they are rotted out so not sure if this would work well.. but its an idea
If you really want to use your Black + Decker 20 tools for long periods of time you can get larger batteries. I have two 6 Ah batteries I use on my weed eater and pole saw. I get tired before the battery does.
Damn! That's too much like work. I have an old tri-pod screw jack. I open it up and put it snug against the post. I put a piece of 2×6 under the two spreader legs. Wrap a chain around the post and hook it to the jack. Once that's done I just crank on it to pull the wood out.
Obviously a lot easier if you have a tractor handy. If the post is broke of and there is cement in the ground then need a blade. But I realize that not everyone has that handy.
I understand, sometimes posts will slip right out of their concrete, I will have to do a video next time this happens to me, thanks for the idea. Thanks! And thank you for watching!
sometimes they slip out of the concrete but most pull out concrete and all. But when they don't you have three choices. 1. leave the concrete and relocate the new one. 2. dig a hole next to it to make room to extract it. 3. get out the chipping hammer. Thanks for watching!
Lag bolts and hydraulic Jack will work ok if you have 13 years to work on it. The hydraulic Jack has too short of a stroke. Chain it up with a hi- lift
@@reverendcolonel395 I tried the pump jack and spent hours re-blocking to get the distance. Went on marketplace and bought a HI-lift for 40 bucks. If you only have one or two posts, its not worth the purchase. Thanks for posting!
Metal posts can use the same method. Harder to drill through though. Another method is to auger beside the post but then you have to refill and re auger the hole. If you have a lot of them to do if you are able to lay out your posts differently you can cut them off just below ground level and auger fresh new holes! Thanks for watching!
OMG…I’ve been doing this type of work 4 ever….by the time all this is done, you could have taken a round shovel Doug, 8 inches around 5 post, and all the post will literally fall down 😂
I get it, more than one way to skin a cat. Personally I don't like digging. Also if you have several to do, the jack is faster. Down side to digging is if you need to reuse the same post location you have to use twice as much concrete to stabilize the new post because the ground around it is now unstable.
Cut it to knee height. Then drive a wedge into it. The split in the post will disturb the soil enough to break the post and yank it out. There can't be any anchor (concrete)on the post in order for this to work.
Interesting... my method works on concrete unless the post in the concrete. is loose in the concrete, in which case it will still yank the post but you will need to bust and excavate the concrete
That's a risk with wood posts for sure. But that's like most thing in remodeling, same thing doesn't always produce the same results. However I found this works in most cases. Thanks for watching!
Here's an idea for using the come-along. I've pulled out posts anchored with concrete using this method. You just need a folding step ladder, a couple lengths of chain and the come-along. Set up the ladder over the post and hang the come-along from the top. (If you have a two-sided ladder, you can set a length of 2x4 or 4x4 across the top steps and hang the come-along from that, to distribute the load and have less chance of breaking the ladder.) drop a couple loops of chain around the post and bring the ends back up to the extended come-along. start cranking, and the post should pull right out. If you need to, just re-extend the come-along and let the chain drop further down on the post, then start cranking again. This has worked great for me. Maybe someone else will get some success from this method too.
gotta watch the weight rating on a ladder. Most are only good for 250 - 350 pounds. They will take more, but you might also need a new ladder if you screw up.
@@rupe53 Good Point. Size and weight do become a big factor, Even with the board spreading the weight across the top rungs. You could also make a tripod with 2x4's. That would, if nothing else, mean that you're not risking a good ladder. I'm just not sure off the top of my head how to connect the 2x4's at the top so you can hang the come-along from it.
@@kevbu4 ... the biggest drawback is most step ladders only have modest braces on the back, which are not meant for weight. One could engineer something, but a wonky DIY build is likely to have wonky results as well.... mostly because people build this stuff out of scraps, they have laying around. IOW, it's never the same way twice in a row. BTW, you could build a tripod with 2x4 and connect all three together with a piece of threaded rod. Use 3/8" rod but drill the holes to maybe 3/4" and use large flat washers to tie things together. if you leave an inch of space between the boards and use the extra wobble (larger holes) you can spread the legs several feet apart. Just hook your chain in the center BEFORE you spread the legs, which will cause the top ends of the boards to touch each other. (adds stability) You can double nut the rods to keep the parts from getting lost.
@@rupe53 The ladder I used was a two sided ladder(you could climb up either side) But I know what you mean by only modest braces on the back. I would not use the back as support on that kind of ladder. Are two sided ladders not that common? Also, do you think a long 3/8ths inch bolt would work as well as the threaded rod? or are there common differences in tensile/shear strength?
In that case, take your auger and drill a hole next to it and then use a rotary hammer to break the concrete into managable peices. Good question. Thanks for watching! More to come soon.
Depending on your soil type adding water may make the process simpler. Here with black Texas clay it sometimes makes it worse, depending on the time of year. Thanks for watching!
That doesn't remove the concrete! & if you're replacing a fence, you'll need to get the concrete out also. Just cut the post off & get a 4' - 5', 4x4 then wrap a 10' chain around the top of the concrete & tie it to the trailer hitch of truck. Then put the 4x4 about 1/2 way between the concrete & the truck @ a 45° angle and slowly tension the chain. Once the 4x4 is set onto the ground, hit the gas & it pops right out. It may take a couple of tries, but it works well.
Well that's one way to do it. But most of the time terrain, location and access will prohibit that method. Plus I don't think may clients would see it as very professional. Thanks for watching!
Too complicated. I've pulled a lot of cemented posts QUICKLY by simply throwing a chain around the post and using a farm jack to jack it out of the ground. The method shown works, but takes a long time.
A farm jack works great if you have one, but most people I know do not. In which case the bottle jack is something most people have or can get easily. Thanks for watching.
You are right. When I first used my farm jack on a project, it was one of those things I bought off Amazon some time back, just cause I might have a use for it someday. lol.@@reverendcolonel395