Love how it all looks & interested in your process. My current approach in the UK is to wire brush, rub down, then use a rust converter before spraying with a zinc based anti-rust primer, then top coat with cellulose, otherwise an oil based paint that takes days to dry, & recently I have used bees wax having left some wax on my car that melted & it was near impossible to get it all off, as a final anti rust protection. Once I used to sand blast but the sand went everywhere & didn't like potentially breathing it in, so more recently I have used the convertor, but perhaps I will re-try blasting. Never thought to use flip flops as sanding blocks, nice idea. I did just use a cut up crocs sandal to patch a split in a tyre which is at least reducing the chance of the inner tube getting a hole, but everyone seems to like negatively commenting on it! Thanks for sharing!
Well Lance fair play to you sanding by hand, but I know it will turn out super, my Father was a painter and decorator and always said, its the time spent preparing the job is how well the finish is, I take all my hats off to you, well done a super job, it will no doubt turn out great.
Well Lance, just been catching up on the Grey and Gold. Entertaining watch, but I already knew that lol. But what is so good (and I don't think you realise this) is to watch someone who knows what he's doing, doing a job properly. Just telling it how it is. Now.....Nuffield injectors. Had a call from my friend a couple of days ago. He's borrowed a tester, however it's metric, so now needs to make a pipe or adaptor from metric to imperial. Hey ho, doesn't matter....plenty of time for a drive this year eh! Oh, lovely weather hear at the minute.
I'm doing a 49 Massey Harris pony right now, wheel rims are badly rusted (holes),so plenty of mig welding is being used. Looking for engine parts, French version used a simca engine. All good fun eh.
Headlights were probably powder coated. Media blasting and power coating don't play well together. Media heats the coating causing it to become pliable/rubbery. Need a water slurry to be effective from a time perspective.
Reckon l've spent more time looking into what paint l can use at home without harming the neighbours and now you bring up a enamel with hardner. Better look at that too. Does it spray well and hold up against the UV? Love the sanding thong Lance. Aussie invention #342.....
Any true two part urethane enamel should be left to professional shops. Isocyanates are no good for you, neighbors, pets, etc. Now there are paints that you can add what they call a hardener but it is more an additive than an activator. You can add it to the paint and store the unused portion with no ill effects. Do that with an activator and you have expensive jello in a few hours and a brick in a day or two.
G day Duncan, The paint holds up well, the hardner gives a pot life of a couple of hours but does help with shine, flow and makes it less effected by oils and fuel. Not the same as two pack but along similar lines. I painted everything with Sparex light grey as per sheet and not happy with it as it is too dark for this one so off for a special mix today. Possibly two pack.
