I've found that using a breaker bar/socket with those torx bits will shear then right off. Yet using an impact gun, at the correct torque level will loosen them right off with no drama.
This might be one of those instances where you get an oil hand pump and drain the tank from the fill first, then crack the plug. That way you get just the residual oil out.
I had the same problem with garage temperature and the biggest culprit was the steel garage door. You could cook an egg on the inside of the door so the fix was to put aluminium bubble wrap insulation (Home Depot?) on it using liquid nails.
Dan, as my lifelong dream is to be like you when I grow up, I just bought an F430. Enjoyed your videos the last few years and now I can run with the big dogs. I have reluctantly sold my beautiful Aston Martin Vantage S that I have owned for five years. I bought an extremely high mileage car (35k) that the previous owner maintained at a high level. He is 75. I thought that he is a nice kid.
A Ferrari mechanic told me he uses a socket with a thin, flexible strap on it- He loosens the drain plug a little first, wraps the strap around the socket, gets out of the way, pulls the strap which unscrews the drain plug the rest of the way! No oil bath!
Great videos as always. Nice to see folks who are not afraid of doing their own maintenance on a Ferrari, Lambo, etc. If you haven't already look into a set of QuickJacks. I bought a set (5k version) and they are a lifesaver as they get both my P-Cars 2 feet off the ground. They have great customer service and are happy to answer questions to ensure you get the correct version to suit your needs. Also allows me to put a 5 gallon bucket under the drain plug of my Cayman and not spill any of the 7+ quarts the sump holds when it comes gushing out. Getting the rear aero tray off and back on with the QJ’s is a bit fiddly but not too bad. Just have to position the jacks and rubber lift blocks in the perfect location. They are not cheap, but after using them a few times any and all thoughts of buyer’s remorse went away since I was kicking myself for not buying them sooner.
I've been looking at getting those, but the bottom tray is my only hangup... That and I'm not 100% confident they will fit under my car as it's been lowered. To get the tray off would be a little bit annoying (lift it up, unbolt it, drop it down, remove the jacks, pull the cover out of the way, jack it back up... But that's not the end of the world I suppose.
A cool technique a mechanic showed me is to add a little pressure to the drain plug right before it comes loose. Then as u continue to add a little pressure turn it slightly so the threads are not engaged. Then pull it out of the way really fast. He rarely got oil on his hands. I know it's hard to do it on the floor but when I change my oil it definitely helps me reduce the mess. Worth a shot.
Heating the bolts will expand them and thus make it harder to remove them. Use "freeze and release" it works a treat. On my Mondial I have to use a hammer and screwdriver to remove my oil filter...every friken time ! I only tighten it with my hands and it still welds it's self on there.
If a cool temp garage is a worry, leave the wrenching alone. Using an Allen bit from a multi bit screwdriver kit will most certainly break, it’s for screws, not bolts. Use Allen sockets when breaking bolts loose.
Dan great vids, thanks. Removing the rear defuser, easy, fast , and then many more jacking points, this is what I do on 458 oil changes, agin thanks for the vids
Oh and that undercarriage bolt part is acutally a nutsert that is inserted in the frame and holds that belly pan bolt, I have a whole metric set and install tool I could lend you, or link to it on Amazon if you like.
I bought a new large Flo Tool drain pan with an elevated area to set the filter on while it drains. As well got the extra large metal pan to go under the drain pan, large enough to accommodate the drain pan, tools and surely catch whatever oil found a way to miss the drain pan. For some reason I thought that would prevent oil from finding its way to the floor. It almost worked.
What’s the source for the Ferrari service manual you showed on your phone? It actually looked very good! Unlike the official VW service manual... which uses crude black & white graphics that look like they were designed on a Windows 95 machine.
Good Job Dan, nice Instructions with Part No., but.... please give us more or All Numbers for the Washers and Oilfilter inside the Crancase, rubber O-Ring´s, Cupper Gasket etc.
The small fixings holding in the the drain plug flange will have been assembled with a Loctite thread lock, you will need to hold your head gun on them for a good few minutes which will soften up the Loctite.(needs to get to 80 to 90 centigrade) if you try to remove cold you will for sure shear them off, and an easy out won't get them out.
Not true, I removed them before and there was no locktite. I suspect the engine needs to be heated up and near running temp to expand the metal disk and loosen it up.
As a DIYer myself, work on my BMW's and Corvette I thought I'd study your "How to and How not to" procedures. My uncle has a F430 (you've talked to him before) and I just might take a crack at changing his oil. One thing I'd highly recommend is to really purchase quality tools if you plan on continuing to work on your own car. There's got to be someone out there to sponsor you! That said, you are absolutely hilarious and love your sense of humor when things don't go as planned.....we've all been there. Oh, those flimsy jack stands make me cringe. Please invest in 6 ton jack stands. Anyway, keep up the great work.....although not a Ferrari owner, I'm now hooked on your channel & your wife Megan is one smart gal as I've watched her segments.
Also if you center punch a divot onto the head of those screws offset a bit, you can try taking a punch and hammer and cracking them loose that way. Might work, or destroy the head of the screw. If you were going to replace them anyways it probably doesnt matter.
Good Job. Make sure you schedule the next oil change at the dealer or a competent shop and have that screen and seal changed. Videos are great. I get a kick out of your presentations. Thanks. Ps. To make the garage cool you need to insulate the walls and door(s) and tint the glass. I did it at my house. My garage also has a vent from the second zone with damper to allow for one way air direction only. It stays at 68f year round give or take a couple. It's amazing and well worth the expense.
Get a set of race ramps wheel cribs off Amazon. Gives you more options to move around under the car from different angles. The quick jacks are a nice option too but start at around $1200. To remember the torque spec you can write them with a sharpie right next to the fastener.
I read somewhere that Ferrari parts are all casted with virgin aluminum... have you had a lot of problems with bolts seized up or galvanic corrosion issues?
Trying to say "virgin aluminum" is no different than "aluminum" other than the fact one is from recycled aluminum (hence the link in the comment) and one is from the raw material bauxite (virgin). "virgin aluminum" takes much more energy to make but has no superior properties to recycled aluminum. Another note is most aluminum automobile components would be an alloy composition so not "pure" aluminum. All aluminum and aluminum alloys can have "galvanic" reactions to certain metals that come in contact with it. Even automotive coolant is formulated for aluminum parts to prevent those types of reactions and corrosion. Oh, thanks for the "dumb fuck" reference, very intelligent response....LOL
is there a larger / longer oil filter available? i would look into Dzus turnlock fasteners-named after their inventor-William Dzus (pronounced "Zeus") refers to a type of proprietary quarter-turn lock fastener that is often used to secure skin panels on aircraft and other high-performance vehicles. Turnlock fasteners are also referred to as quick-action panel fasteners. i would convert all the under tray bolts to them
Good morning Dan Just recently bought an f430 I'll probably be doing most of my maintenance like you. Where do you get your parts? Love your videos thanks
Hey man you know you can do an oil change without removing the rear tray and diffuser? As for the oil screen you can inspect it through the drain plug hole and most of the time it's clean. Could've saved you some aggravation. Last pro tip: Buy a Hill Engineering oil filter socket if you're gonna be doing a lot of oil changes. It's nice and robust and you can use it with a 1/2" breaker bar.
Buy some better jack stands. When you use them on your plastic tiled-floor, best to put a flat plate under then so the corners/feet don't dig in. Also, go to Target or similar and buy yourself some of those large plastic boxes for clothes storage under the bed - those clear plastic boxes will hold ALL the oil you drain out.
Indeed, if you're not careful you might make a mess transferring the collected oil into whatever container you use for storage or transport to the recycler - I use a funnel and pour it into a 5 gallon water bottle which I take to the recycler after doing a couple changes. As for potential messes, your video already shows how easy it is to make one with those small pan/bottle devices when collecting the oil as it pours out of the sump when you pull the plug. Pick your poison I guess. The bigger scare item in your vid was those smallish jackstands on the plastic tile floor. I know I wouldn't get under the car with those stands on that floor.
I never change oil on any car without managing to splash some out of the drain pan. Do it on the driveway, so just spray it down with brake cleaner right after and it comes off really well. Have started using nitrile gloves. Keeps my hands clean, and I get a good grip on the filter to tighten hand tight, rather than use a wrench. Shearing off fasteners is older cars is just a fact of life. Now--concerning how you pour your beer...:>
I say do it. I'd love to see it personally. The clutch replacement cost/f1 pump horror stories is pretty much the sticking point for most people who are looking for a car like this so if you can pull it off...allot of would be first time Ferrari buyers will see it can be done at home to an extent (minus the programming) saving them lots of $. You would be a hero if you pulled it off
saab cars require a COMPUTER ( tech 2 ) for diagnosis and adjustment repair - now they are being made as KNOCK OFFS in china ! ( and work fine ) so you could get a Ferrari computer and copy/ clone / hack the software/ hardware and sell it ! you are a computer expert eh? easy for you! even if you have to take the car to be tweaked by computer you still save $ we admire your initiative and bravery to take on the repairs !
hi buddy, that was actually a great job man!! this oil works also for a 2010 California model? and where do you buy filters and others stuffs for Ferraris? tks
I don't know if it's the same on a Cali as they have totally different engines. You can get the filter and crush washers on ricambi, or even Amazon. I would probably look into a service manual if you're gonna go try it.
Please for the love of god get something like a Fumoto drain valve. Fumoto doesn't make one for Ferrari's but I'm sure someone does. Make's changing oil sooooo much easier.
@@normalguysupercar you just make one mistake, lift up the car only back, so the engine oil pan was not horizontal, a lot of used oil remains inside the engine, always lift all of the wheels and keep the car horizontal.
Love that Ferrari. Def an awesome car. That exhaust you have had such a lovely tone to it. Great video..minus all the hiccups you had but hey, that's how shit works when you work on your own car. Nothing ever goes your way some days.
The video that you got that ticket for not stopping at the designated point, technically he’s right you didn’t stop at the designated point, but he shouldn’t be harassing people like that because it’s clear he was waiting to get you for something.
well i've been a mechanic for over 50 + years and thinking of getting a Ferrari ! -F430 ! you need to get better tools ! please spend a few thousand $ at snap on ! start w/ a longer flex ratchet! PS we hate air tools ! if you tap bolts smartly w/a hammer and flat round punch before starting to loosen them it will help ! the shock helps break loose the threads ! please use never seize on all bolts , nuts studs before re-assembly they recommend reducing torque about 30% as they can be overtightened w/ never seize ! ( as you are not shy to use non OEM stuff ? ) i would replace the 3mm bolts in that oil drain w/ something w/a bigger allen socket ! 4-5 mm and have them protrude more so they could be safety wired ! ( maybe have custom bolts made ) we enjoy your videos ! ps pls use a soft pad , at least a big piece of cardbord ! under the engine covers ! don't let them fall on the floor and drag them out when you remove them ! as you have $ ? i would buy a quick lift - 2 K$ i have issues fixing my rare saab 02' viggen cv too enjoy your videos ! thx !
An old-fashioned pit ! ( w/ removable covers! - so someone doesn't fall in ! ) is cheap! hire eager illegals at home depot looking for honest work! LOL ! ( or your local casual labor office ! ) cut a long rectangular hole in the floor w/a concrete saw , dig , finish walls floor w/ concrete look on youtube! there are fancy ones w/ a movable floor ! i want a real, offset arm 2 post lift- and you can get euro certified chi-coms from 2K$ now! but have no overhead room in my garage so will build a separate building! ( i have room! looks like you are in a typically crowded subdivision! can you build a building in your back yard ? or extend off the back of your garage w/a building w/a taller roof ? I need an architect plan for a 15-18' wide X 50' long X 15-18' high building as cheap as possible ( and insulated! we're in Arizona! )
well , ck w/ your local laws , zoning regs ? you could always fill in a pit easily !( if you sell ) but I think it would be a + to a buyer ! my issue is how can I do a big building near the house that looks good ? As cheap as possible ! i have no stupid HOA regs to deal w/ tho ! can you just cut off the roof have i raised by a giant crane and build up the walls higher so you have more headroom and re-install the same roof but a bit higher ? could use pre-fabbed walls and do it in hours ! repaint the seams , noone could tell' cept it's taller than your neighbors !
I've actually been looking into getting another one... It might be helpful... I've also looked at those quick Jack's but I'm not sure it that will work with the bottom tray...
How about getting a four post lift then you could really wrench ? And being part of the FCA club and going to all those Ferrari events couldn’t you get access to their garage and still do your own service?
Ferrari isn't in the business of letting you work on your Ferrari in their expensive service shop. I certainly have friends that have lifts, but I actually don't mind just doing it at home with what I have.
Hit them with a ball pean and handheld impact screwdriver . And that'll break those threads loose and then you should be able to use a ratchet to get them out
Jacking up the rear to such an extreme angle and putting your body under it with the tools you are demonstrating is extremely dangerous. At the least don’t let your body under the car so much and keep in your mind what happens when the car falls down while I’m fucking about making RU-vid
Not really. Those jackstands are on the frame. 1 of those stands has enough strength to hold up the entire car. The front wheels are chocked. It's not going anywhere really.
Lol yup. Mine was a disaster, 2nd was OK. 3rd I didn't spill any oil but as you saw, other things weren't so good. Maybe one day I'll have a drama free oil change.
