I love my KS60 Ive been a kitchen fitter for 30 years 10 years all festool all except chop saw a delta sidekick. Until now haven"t found anything worth changing for. Looked at Kapex 120 when it first came out but to heavy and way to expensive.This has been a game changer for me and for the type of work I do. Just find the right tool that works for you.
Really enjoyed this video - clear and precise - cannot stress more upgrading the hose to 36mm for better dust control. The LED spot light is super accurate espesh when that blade is running. Its a quality build hence the price point.
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade, it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact . (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw. Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade. Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.
Thanks a lot for this very detailed demonstration. I have only one question: the knob in front of the machine is not supported by this stand. Is that a problem for machine frame bending or not?
I wouldn’t be doing heavy jobs with this if you do a lot of bevel cuts. Depth of cut dramatically decreases when cutting a right hand bevel due to the rails. That’s why you have to remove the fence and the permanent fence is so short. I think they’ve carefully disguised this problem in their video. Having said that I own a kapex 60 and only use it for finishing work where materials rarely exceed 35mm and I dare say based on the the amount of saws I’ve owned in the past 20 years that you’ll struggle to find one that is more accurate than this. It rides in the passenger seat of my van when I take it to work.
They are great for cutting firewood with nails in (the universal blade it comes with) but anything like cornice or even skirting the rage struggle with, even with a high number toothed wood only blade (with adaptor ring as rage make stupid size blades to make you buy theirs) it still needs setting up every time you use it and then its hit and miss weather you get the clean cut Phil showed on this vid. I will def pay more next time I buy. Luckily I only do 1 or two kitchens a year. BTW I struggle when mitre bonding the two joints together its hit and miss when I put them together, wondered if you had a technique that works without fail.
Evolution usually fine for rough work eg planters, timber framing, etc. Some very batches - I've had to return them as dead on arrival. Not for fine work
When you used the angle finder you measured for an internal miter then cut an external miter? How would you use that device to measure an external miter?
I think we are agreed that having a good fence to work against is useful for guiding the workpiece to get accurate cuts. It is a great pity therefore that the fence has to be removed for doing bevel cuts. While those 'overhead' slide rails reduce the amount of space needed at the back of the tool they interfere with the fence for bevel cutting. Also if after going to all that trouble to reduce the space needed at the back of the tool why do Festool then position the dust extractor pipe in such a way as to use up space at the back?
I think this is the perfect saw for the carpenter. All studwork and roofing is done with a circular saw so this is just for trims and mouldings during the 2nd fix. You don't need a bigger depth of cut. I would buy this to replace my monster Bosch without hesitation
+Martin Durrant It depends on the cuts you are making when doing roofing. Simple straight forward pitch cuts could be done with a hand saw. But if you are doing complex compound cuts that require accuracy then a festool may be what you need.
So gone is the ability to use the cool quick clamp you can use with the KS88 and the KS120 and also the brilliant graduated bevel control on one of the rails of the bigger saws? Why on earth leave that out? Add to that the 60's really poor depth of cut on a bevel, I can't see the point. It's more portable I suppose but it seems very unlike Festool to cut features. Being sold for between 650 - 850GBP here in the UK. Too much for what it is. Work and save an extra month and get the 88 or 120.
Is there a way to angle the dust port to the left or right? Straight out the back kind of takes away from the ability to get close to the wall. Thank you
Looks great going to look into one of them just one question Roger does that angle finder do external profile because l thought he did an internal angle finder then did a external mitre perhaps l need to watch it back regards Mal 👍
how would it do with an added laser, which are available on the market?
7 лет назад
I don't even see someone make this tool overview in Germany... u r the first I see some awesome details of this saw... awesome! :) u think the good less dust design is compareble with the big brother? I hope I can buy this one in the future :)
I think we got a scoop on this tool and we hope it will get lots of views across the world. I am impressed with the dust extraction but I have learned it is better to let the blade stop before you lift it up, That way the dust is not lifted out onto the top of the timber.
7 лет назад
Skill Builder yes and the cut can be more clean thanks for your engagement :)
Very important always buy a Slide Compound Mitre Saw with the handle in a line above the saw blade,everything has to be in line Slide bar rails,handle,and saw blade. it's better no tilt saw blade, and engine with softstart just like this video.
Hi everyone. If you have a few minutes on a dull day take a look at our new Ask Skill Builder feature on skill-builder.uk ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FbkQwB9fqXE.html We want your questions and comments to help us make this a huge success.
Skill Builder has it wrong here. The KS120 has a 10 1/4" (260mm) blade, the KS60 has an 8" (216mm) blade. The 120 and 60 numbers refer to max depth of cut at the fence behind the arbor (for crowns etc). The KS 60 doesn't have upfront controls of the KS 120, nor the ability to control bevel angle in graduation via a knob at the end of a rail (a great feature). You also can't use the KL-KS quick clamp with the KS 60 saw. The KS 60 is a waste of money.
I can not reconcile spending hundreds of dollars more on Festool power tools, my partner has the Festool Kapex and Festool track saw, I have the Bosch Glide mitre saw and makita track saw, there is literally no difference in the quality of cuts on either tool between my Bosch and makita, and his Festool mitre and track saws, except my saws combined cost over $ 800.00 less, by the way, the handle on the Kapex mitre saw is ergonomically awkward and counter intuitive to use.
That angle finder? Have you never heard of a bevel? Theres nothing special about the angle finder, in fact a bevel is more versatile because they slide varying the length.
Ryan You may be right but they are one of the few who manufactures in Germany and that costs more. If you took China out of the equation you would have a different price structure. We have got use to slave labour.
Indeed you are completely right. I think their plunge saw is great but I don't rate their drills I personally think Hilti are the front runners in drills and impacts :)
Skill Builder in my opinion it depends on the application I own Hilti 18 volt impact Hilti 18 volt drill Festool t 15 Festool pdc 18 volt Power wise hilti is hard to beat. Unbelievable power and there impact just feels perfect in your hands. Although I've mentioned hilt is power is unbelievable, I believe the pdc is not far behind. The settings is where things get tricky. Festool is all about precision. If you torque the festool down to 1 then up the other two settings all the way to max position. The festool will rip your arm off. But the speed will be slow. Battery wise, there's no comparison. I have to charge my hiltis 2 or 3 times to one charge of my festool. In my opinion if I had to pick between all of them I'll pick my little impact hilti. Maybe if festool came out with a strictly impact drill. I might would change my mind. Because personally I use an impact over a drill anyday.
Ok 2 issues I don't like about this saw. I don't like the shadow line, not as accurate as the red lazor line. #2 I do not like the star handle you have to rotate on the rear of the saw to tilt the head to make compound cuts, I hate those on saws. The Kapex 120 is great for the way its rear top locking device works. Also this guy doesn't know how to make a good cut, when making a splinter free cut on top of your piece of wood, start the cutting of wood with blade all the way back against the fence and score the top of wood slide forward to front of the wood edge but do not cut the wood all the way through , just score it with the blade about a 1/16" deep to the front then go down thru the wood and then go back to the fence cutting the wood piece. This makes a clean cut without splintered edge, at least on the top of wood. And a clean cut underneath also. This process is for wide boards or plywood, if your cutting a 2 inch wide board you don't need to do this most of the time. I would not buy this saw for these 2 reasons.
States on Festool website it's designed specifically for trim and Base boards (skirting boards). I never fit skirting on an of my developments that Is 60mm. A tool that can only perform half the tasks in which is is designed for is not fit for purpose. Your quick to point out the good aspects of Festool but never the bad aspects. "Barry the plug" I think I what you call it. You irritate me giving me one sided biased salesman 'reviews' try being honest and you may garner more respect. (BTW I'm not a Festool hater I actually own a 120 which I love and feel Is market leader but again not without its flaws which again you fail to point out)
You obviously haven't seen the second part to the walk through. Also, the cut capacity behind the blade is more than 60mm, quite a bit as a matter of fact.
Why would anyone choose this over a KS 120. You could bet your btm dollar that the first job would be cutting stock greater than 60 mm. And using a festool clamp is slow and cumbersome. Abt the only advantage I can see is the 60 degree cut both ways
I have a DeWalt 10 inch double bevel mitre saw and it does nearly everything I want and is a bit easier to transport. This size of saw is very popular so any manufacturer that ignores the sector loses sales.
I hardly ever cut more than 60mm. I wanted a good saw for flooring and mouldings. Working in a clients house, i want the best dust extraction I can get. But i don't want to carry a huge heavy saw about. That's why people chose the KS 60 over the 120 or 88
$800-$1,000 more than a comparable Bosch. I have a 12 inch Bosch which I absolutely love especially with the Bosch miter stand. There is no way this saw is worth 2 of those. Go check the reviews. Waste of money. To each his own....
@@SkillBuilder As a retired carpenter my experience goes back 45 yrs , while not making sweeping judgments the reliance of things electric and now battery powered tools take many of the skills out of the trade that's a fact.
You are entitled to your opinion however after working with both Bosch and Metabo and now owning a Kapex 60 I would have to say your comment is at best wrong and at worst foolish, the Kapex60 offers levels of accuracy, cut and refinement far beyond these two brands, good saws they are but with the Kapex60 the word great is simply the only description suitable!
@adie chip I agree with much of what you are saying, there is many good mitre saws out there for a good deal less and will do a good job, my work as a cabinet maker requires more than a good cut, or a good job my work requires an above average cut, and above average accuracy, this is where the kapex steps in, I have had hands on experience with makita and dewalt and Bosch and ok they where, yet simply no more than ok, the kapex first cut is the same as it's one hundredth cut spot on clean, crisp and perfect, I am not rubbishing these other brands as I think you seem to think, but as a cabinet builder I need better than most, festool offers me just that, do I think that festool is over priced, yes I do does it sit well with me.....no, i dont like it so it's up to other companies to spend a little more time in the design stage to catch up and match festool at a lower price, so then i wish you well. Kindest regards louie Ulster workshop
@adie chip Adie, why so angry? I wouldn't dare question your skills in your field of joinery, machining kitchens requires a high level of both ability and skill, my work however is bespoke pieces that require often a mind blowing level of ability, something that I have had to work at for almost 30years, I am 47 and I started carpentry in my teens so you could say a long time. Over those years I have had many brands of saw and all I can do is tell of my own experiences, Bosch and Makita, DeWalt and Metabo have all offered a very acceptable level of cut, however when Festool approached us with their Kapex I have to say that the accuracy and repeated cuts simply went far beyond what I was used to before! We use 60 and 96 tooth Freud ProCut blades in our cabinet saws, Mitre Saws and also within our Festool55's, Cabinet making is a discipline that demands the very best of everything, so I wish you well in your kitchen cabinet work kindest regards Louie
@adie chip Adie you do come across as alittle angry and upset! Often when I mention my festool machines some woodworkers become jealous and hit out with aggression!! Not saying that's you but you do come across as upset about something, I do have a woodworking RU-vid channel which I have only begun, I intend to showcase some of my work, all of my work is within our portfolio, this would be single and multiple pieces presented to our customers. You see Aide you did declare that your view was Bosch and Makita are just as good as Festool, as an owner and user of Festool and one with experience of other brands I had to endeavour to enlighten you to your errors and help to correct you, I hope in a good way. Regards louie
I purchased this machine and the returned it the next day. You can't cut timber thicker than 30mm on a compound cut. The machine also tips over when attempting a compound cut. Look at how badly splintered the cuts are on the video. This is a terrible saw its so limited on the cut depth
Dude that was cheap pine, no saw would make a better cut but i agree with you on the compound cut, doesn't matter for me as i will be using this for second fix.
My kapex 120 with a Freud blade rips even the cheapest pine leaving a crisp edge. I don't believe the 60 has the ability to spin the blade quick enough. When I returned my 60 I was the second person to do so in that particular shop that week.
You are incorrect the kapex 60 blade at the point of the cut/rip is considerably slower In part due to less power and a smaller blade than the 120 (I have owned/used and tested both) The actual size of the two saws physically beside each other is minimal. It's the ability of both saws which is night and day. That is why the 60 Is such a fail
I was using the stock Festool blade. However I always change out the stock Festool blade for a Freud blade. The Freud blade delivers a crisper cut every time. I'm not a Festool hater, I'm actually a huge advocate of Festool products. I will however point out if something they sell is useless