If you want to save money and you want cordless then you would probably want to go with the Makita. Makita’s tracks are cheaper as well. I would go with the TSV60 if I were going to be cutting a lot of laminate/vinyl. Having the scoring cut feature is nice to have however it comes at the cost of weight, size, and cordless feature. If you have the money and you don’t mind the cord, weight, and size I would go with the TSV60. On pass cutting with the scoring blade is a quality of life upgrade.
I think that I have a little more work to do regarding setup. I might not have my scoring blade deep enough. I plan on tinkering with it more before I contact Festool.
Keen to see a follow up. As I was about to pull pin and upgrade, but with those results, I don’t think so, especially as two boards don’t meet flush, that’s most of my work
I believe you can match the with of primary blade by rising or lowering the scoring blade i think it has a V shape for that purpose maybe you still need to calibrate it thats why you don’t get a perfect close joint
The scoring blade can be adjusted up and down and left and right. Up and down is for the depth of the scoring cut. Left and right puts the scoring blade in line with the main blade. Thanks for taking time to checkout the video.
@@daddysharespace up and down is not just for the depth of the scoring cut - it's also for the width of the scoring cut. deeper = wider, as the diamond blade is V shaped. so if your scoring blade is set too deep, it also cuts wider than the kerf of the main blade which would explain why you don't get the perfect closure (assuming it's already perfectly in line width the main blade wrt the sideways adjustment). that would also be why the underside closes better for you, since it wasn't cut by the scoring blade.
Thanks for checking out the video. I checked it out for the second time. Interestingly, my question about the scoring blade was asked by someone else in the comments. Unsurprisingly, there isn't an answer or response. Festool tools do not come sealed, and I have not found any literature that states that all the scoring blades are set to the far right from the factory. In the video, this seemed to be the case. Say you purchased a tool that someone else handled, and they turned the dial to where the blade was to the left, and you made a cut. In this case, you will need to reposition the splinter guard or buy a new one. That's my opinion, of course.
I checked it. It is and was at zero. It might have been my tripod that through of the look of the video. One of them does not sit quite level and I did not catch it. Thanks for watching the video.
Obviously your doing it wrong with this test. I have never had this tear out on My Makita track saw. What kind of blade you using? Are you using the right blade for both? I never heard you say what blade you we're using. There has to be why your getting this chip out from the Makita and not the Festool.
This test is an out-of-box comparison, not a blade comparison. The Makita comes with a 55-tooth thin-kerf blade. Festool comes with a 42-tooth fine-cut blade for wood. Makita has the "quick stop" technique, where Festool uses a secondary scoring blade. The out-of-box OEM mechanisms for a scoring cut are being compared in the video. Festool's out-of-box solution with the scoring blade is superior.
It's great to see more of these comparison videos. I finally bought the Makita track saw after frustrations with the milescraft adapter. I making cabinets for the first time and having a real track saw has been key. I made upgrade to the Festool in the future.
Why not keep it more fair, and use the new makita 40v and with a blade that is actually made for the type of material that you are cutting, the festool blades that come with that saw is made for that that type of material, give a fair shot to makita, who knows what we can find out
Thanks for taking the time to watch the video. I understand your perspective; however, these results are out of the box. Festool and Makita offer laminate blades for an additional cost. Both saws also advertise scoring features for splinter-free cuts. Makita calls this a "quick stop," which allows the blade to descend two to three mls to get a splinter-free cut. Festool's solution is a bit more involved. Their system provides an extra blade that rotates opposite to the primary blade to achieve the same results. The comparison is about which technology is better. The newer technology that provides a dedicated scoring blade is superior in the test. If we apply your analysis, wouldn't the test still be unfair if you upgraded both saws to a laminate blade? FYI, Festool's main blade is a 42-tooth, while Makita's is a 55-tooth blade.
