Great looking car mate! Shame that motor is in such poor condition. I wouldnt waste my time with a gas motor, just build up the original block to be stronger, in the long term the car will be worth more with matching numbers! Good luck with it bud.
Rebuilding the original will give you confidence in the engine being done properly & can maintain its value with matching numbers for a collector in the future.
Make sure to give the engine a clean down before re assembly as well and be sure to check all tolerances. Get your oil pump ported as well and a atomic high volume spring get xr6 turbo development gears and billet backing plate. Make sure those get tolerance check correctly as well.
I would suggest you either get it rebuilt to better than factory spec (more durable but expensive) or you source a new short block from Ford (cheaper but you are at stock spec)
At the end of the day bro it could be worse I got an Audi S4 that 6 mouths arfter buying it it blew a supercharger Intercooler and bent my rod 14k to rebuild with stock parts I feel your pain
As an ex mechanic myself I say don't stuff around with a 2nd hand engine. You could end up right back at square one again with the same problems. Most 2nd hand engines have either been flogged or had some back yard screwdriver mechanic stuff around with it. Just pull your engine out, strip it, clean it and replace what is needed like big ends etc and you know in your own mind that it's a good engine.
Agree, spend the time to strip it down so you don’t have to second guess in the future. It’ll take longer, but you’ll be able to put your mind at ease.
Yep, rebuild it yourself mate, if possible. It will take a lot longer than you think, and probably cost more than you expect, but you'll become intimately familiar with your car, and love it all the more. Only other solution, if you can afford it, is pay someone you trust. Good luck mate :)
I feel your pain. The shop is spot on about the sludge. I was instructed by a car yard to clean the top end of one of their cars after I warned them about dislodging sludge. Engine seized a week later with blocked oil galleries. With yours, take the engine out, totally disassemble and clean everything. Build it up and start fresh! Don't bother with a gas motor, just make sure yours is genuine fg turbo (inconel valves and turbo rods) in case they've done something dodgy.
I would suggest to build it that way you know what's in it when it got done etc you always take a risk with second hand motors and other turbo engines are always thrashed. Also if you pushing power and the motor let's go your just gonna replace it with a stock motor just to happen again I think a built motor will be best even if you only gonna use half a third of its potential it will be bullet proof for the power your after
Good advice, build the motor and keep the matching numbers I am in the process of rebuilding my XR50T with similar km’s. The mods required for safe power would need to be done to any stock engine anyway. Engine out you can look at extra integrity stuff like main cap studs, main cap girdles, you can get the crank balanced with the upgraded flex plate the possibilities are only limited by the bank account
Hey mate sorry for your loss , I just want to say thank you for teaching us about the lessons you’ve learnt. This was a very informative video as I’m looking to get a very similar car. No one’s done a “what to look out for when buying a barra turbo” thanks again mate.
Thanks for your comment, and im glad that i could share my experience to help others learn from it, im really just documenting whats happened for others to see,
Make sure it has rego and get a mechanic to have a thorough look at it first including the Engine, Turbo etc. They are cheap to buy but can be a money sink to run and own. Could be a good investment though to simply hold on to for a few years.
Honestly man I can't believe you managed to drive it around after finding out about the sludge! Generally speaking the moment you would have known about the sludge you should have realised the ticking time bomb you have, good thing for you as mentioned a turbo barra engine is pretty accessible these days and you can pick up one for like 2k, I would honestly pull out all the internals you have placed on that old motor and check the condition of them, if they're fine put them on the new engine and build that new engine up to spec, even if you find a small defect in rebuilding a second hand engine you would go A - Z on that motor and know yourself there's nothing wrong. With your sludge motor that's as good as gone, the fact that MAXX themselves didn't want to touch it should have spoke volumes, in saying that they should have told you about the sludge the moment they opened it up to do the valve springs, it would have saved you a pretty penny on whatever you've done to that sludge engine. Definitely go with a Barra Turbo motor to preserve the value of the vehicle nonetheless man!
1) Ditch Max performance - for starters they should not have installed valve springs on an engine like that. Lots of horror stories out of that shop. Bet they were happy to take your money though. 2) Ditch that motor or full rebuild. A replacement standard Fg turbo motor is fine for your goals. Do you really want to daily a built motor? 3) Go to seres enginering, Grieci or springy performance and chat about your goals ect. 4)Ditch Max performance
haha, yes pretty disappointed about it, i did ask them to clean it and charge me whatever, but they didnt want to . stay tuned for motor build video coming next
Had my ego BF2 F6 for 9 years now. It was my dream car before I got it and it's still my dream car today. Still stock as a rock and still makes me smile every time I put my foot down. Great video!
That colour isn't from being hot it's from not having regular oil changes. The fact that Max Performance didn't clean the cam cradles when they had them off is a bit off a worry and would be enough for me to never return. I've also seen plenty of fg's with rocker paint flaking like that. My brother has a 2010 turbo ute that he never services and it looks the same inside. Turbo oil feed was almost completely blocked had to use a pick to scrape out all the sludge. Turbo oil filter was the same. Just rebuild it so you know what you've got or you'll end up paying twice.
@@randomdude4669 if they leave it there's more chance of it crapping it's dacks sooner and then they get to do a rebuild i suppose. 16k for a 400kw package is robbery.
Never ever buy a car without a pre purchase mechanical inspection. They cost around $250. Worst thing is you spent $250 to know you bought a great car.
Since its gonna be a keeper and you have come this far with upgrading it, i’d recommend tearing the whole motor down and rebuilding it from scratch mate. Do it right the first time and once to avoid any more future headaches
Shit go but what's done is done. Best bet if it's a long term investment is to strip it down then have a long hard think about everything you would like to do to it cos now your possibilities are only bound by $$$ and what can actually be achieved. You've basically got the opportunity to build it to your specs( withing reason of the engine of course) you'll know what's into it and that it's all new and done properly. Buying a transplant could leave you open to the same or worse problems cos as U said buy secondhand the risk is on you. You've already outlayed the $$$ for the car you may as well invest what you'd be looking at paying for a transplant and then some and give it whateva your after instead.
Look, you rolled the dice and lost. Recondition the engine, use a professional engine builder , Dandy Engines are just down the road. Buy once , cry once. .
I had a Barra with the same sludge issue and over heating so I opted for a clean second motor with low K's from Boss wrecking, a thousand dollars later I was happy when I got the mechanic I use to inspect the second motor and also fit new radiator water pump and thermostat plus a after market trans fluid cooler seperate from the radiator, all up at the end of the day two grand total, now 5 year's on the motor is perfect still and oil changed every five thousand K's.
my f6 had the same sludge problem, i think its because ford says every 10k service. i think its to long hey, i always have done my 32 at 5k and that motor is still so clean and smooth inside. it has over 250k kms as well
Hi George Sorry to hear about your engine issues but i seriously think you should rebuild that motor your ganna have to bite the bullet mate it will be worth it in the long run. Besides your keeping it so i would definitely do it.
i feel your pain dude, such a nice looking car. When you had your upgrade it would of been great if the mechanics told you to see it for yourself and recommend a fix back then.
Buy an engine stand, engine crane pull the motor. Get a workshop manual for it, you've pulled this far. Strip it, clean it, bearings, timing chain kit, rings, rod bolts gasket set. Carefully reassemble it basic build. Save some money, do something major later. It's still going now with it's current state. This will extend it. Nothing's just simple, is it. All the best mate👍
The body is spot on mate and same with the interior, they are the really important things that are a nightmare to get right money wise. I would source out a built fg xr6 engine from a speed shop you can trust and cop it sweet while being grateful that body and paint are spot on. In the end you end up with one sweet ride that you know is done right and will go up in value. Go with e86 tune on the new one or just a 98 pump tune forget gas imo.
put $60 grand into the barra. turbo. iv got mates that mod them and build custom barra engines. over 1000 horse's mate. . ezy tens machanical in Sydney st Mary's mate. He will make that a full blow weapon for $40 to 60$ grand. bigger injectors
Hey mate, I am in the same predicament after tuner blew my motor, I know this feeling all too well. I ended up deciding on just a standard rebuild with oil pump gears. I got quoted about a 4-5K difference in price between standard with oil pump or full forged build. I thought long and hard about if I should just spend the extra, but I decided on not wanting to push further than 450rwkw's. I personally just don't want to fall down the rabbit hole of spending on the car, and start setting up my future. It's been documented fairly well that the stock motor with valvesprings, head studs and oil pump gears are good for up to 500rwkw. You'll have to start considering the ZF as well if you want pursue some serious power, as they cannot stand anymore than 450-500rwkw, only managing at that level with a good tune with some good torque reduction. You'll possibly have to do a stronger tailshaft and drive shafts as well. It really comes down to the future plans with the car power wise. Just for reference, with your current mods, you'd be good for about 420-430rwkw on E85, as your fuel system is at it's limit without a surge tank. Still plenty power, but if you don't intend on going further than you currently are, maybe not worth spending the extra coin for a fully built motor. Cheers.
Car yard DANGER WILL ROBINSON the old i will ask the Boss trick MAX he already knows his bottom price went for a smoke a coffee whatever nothing wrong with it oh yeh here we go one of many car yards and dealers with their @@@@@@ talk i stay clear off
I'm really surprised Maxx Performance did the work after they noticed the sludge in your engine. That should of been a warning for them. Maybe something could have been done at that point to save you money. I feel bad for you mate, hopefully you can turn it round. Good luck.
I’ve been going there for years and been happy with their service , unfortunately for me modifications were under way , exhaust , turbo cooler before they opened it up for valve springs
Nice car mate, same as mine. I'd pull the motor down and build it for my reliability. Bad thing about buying from second hand dealers is not knowing the previous life it had before hand.
If the engine is the original that came with the car, i'd do everything in my power to rebuild it or if its not the original then fuck it and chuck in a newer better cleaner engine and build that up. At the end of the day if it is the original engine, you rebuild it and keep it together with the car, 10-20-30 years down the track when the FG is a classic (kinda like how the old XA-XF Falcons, Kingswoods and Torana's are like nowadays) collectors will appreciate you having kept the car as original matching numbers and pay you more ;) That said, i used to own a R32 GTR, i'm still kicking myself for having sold it for as cheap as i did since now even if i wanted to i could never afford one ever again lmfao
Sucks to hear about your situation. I love these cars and really feeling for ya that you haven’t been able to fully enjoy the experience yet. I’m subbed and looking forward to seeing you unlock its true potential. I’m in for the ride!
Hey mate, sorry to hear about the bad luck buying the barra. They are great cars. I've owned my nitro blue xr6turbo for 8 years and still love driving it. I would definitely rebuild the motor, just buy a cheap run a round and keep the falcon for the weekends and special occasions, also keeping the ks down on it.
i had a bf f6 and it was a fucking lemon too, blew the gearbox in the first few months of me owning it, it was a zf auto btw. there was so much else wrong from window reggs to the alarm, to sway bars fucking breaking. I never really got to enjoy the car as I was to scared to break it, even though the price has gone up and everything in my opinion they are not worth it. they are just built shit and unless you have a massive budget to replace basically the whole car and get them resprayed as the paint is fucking shit from factory you are constantly chasing your tail with broken parts. and they arent even that old a car. my 1990 r32 has held up better then the 2006 f6 i had haha. i personally find the manual v8 stuff from ford to be very reliable though. i actually got rid of my f6 for a xr8 ute haha
It seems like alot of falcon owners are willing to spend bucket loads on parts but not build the engine, I think it should always be the first thing on the list, before anything else
while you can still go to the wreckers and just buy cheap motors it kinda makes sense, they arent really the weak point for most ppl so no need to spend money where it isnt needed.
Poor man pays twice bro do it once do it properly that way you know everything about it. Pull it down rebuild it, spool rods & pistons new bearings etc the whole nine yards Find a machine shop that can do all your machine work and acid bath your block to get rid of all your burnt oil. Reassemble back home (providing you know what your doing) then hit the strip and blow the doors off everything hahs
I guess some people are different but I’d never buy a car without seeing it and checked out by a mechanic let alone a thrashed second hand hotted up Ford. I’ve owned 2 Fords, never again. There’s a reason why Aussie made cars went out of business.
Man I feel you. I had mine stolen last year. It was recovered but was thrashed. No coolant left in it. Insurance wrote it off due to the unknown damage to engine and trans among other things like suspension all fucked from rallying it through the bush during a police chase. Anyway, I see the car is now for sale at a car yard in Sydney. No mention off being a write off. I feel sorry for who ever buys her. They probably about to get the same condition as yours is. Hope you clean and rebuild it. In the long run the matching numbers will be worth it. Good luck!
sorry to hear about your situation that sounds terrible, I bet the car yard had no clue, I did end up building this engine with a reputable guy so happy as now with it, super late reply but appreciate your comment thanks
I think the mechanics knew this was all going to happen, they fucked you more than anyone. Time to rebuild yourself, make some videos, it will be great
Wow ! What a saga. Your internals have been compromised through heat stress. If we're I , I would rebuild another engine. You know the history of this one. And it's sh1t.
Why heat stress? That colour and gunk build up is from not changing oil. The longer the oil stays in, the deeper the colour gets and the more sludge builds up. Proper overheating is totally different and will generally warp the head, nip up the pistons etc.
Thats crap about the dealer, as they would know full well whats going on just by inspecting the oil filler cap, and using a torch to look inside the top of the valve train. Dealers are not stupid, and it a shame you did not do that either. In NSW we get a 3 month warranty so an engine such as yours would have grounds that it was not fit for purpose, Unfortunately the moment you started adding mods to the engine, the warranty disappeared. When you now add up all the engine costs and not including any further unknown issues given the previous owners neglect for this vehicle, its not that far off the Supra.
Mate shit situation, feel for you, and you’re thinking through things is spot on. Can’t comment on what to do but will follow along, hope she works out in the end, nice looking rig
Hi mate rebuild that engine you have already committed to so many upgrades you just want to have peace of mind with all your money already spent! Rebuild and you won't regret it!
DUDE...you should have gotten a it independent inspection.. i brought from perth and got a guy to do a report and yes he found a few things to which i got the dealer to fix prior to shipping it.
I'd pull the sump plug, drain the oil, pull cams out, diesel and a scrubbing brush, clean it all up, keep flushing it through, a flushing with diesel until nothing cruddy comes out any more. Put cams back in , new factory chain and guides etc. Fresh oil, I'd run it and change oil and filter every 1000klms up to 5000klms. If all goes well, and oil starts coming out fairly clean at 5k, keep it and drive it, if it actually fails, build it, if not happy days.
discovering the motor looks like that on the inside its a no brainer to pull the oil filter and check for shaving or metal. You have the car just do 'n rebuild slowly. From bottom up. The car is not running now. So do a slow build from bottom end to the top. Get everything cleaned it open now might aswell treat her good now.
I like how honest and open you are with your shit situation. If I saw that sludge, I would’ve parked it and start accumulating parts for a build. Definitely build it as a gassy is still unknown condition and limited in what you can do
Had similar experience. Bought a BF FPV turned out to be passing a bit of oil. Had excessive blowby and was up for a rebuild. Like you I weighed up my options and decided to buy a 08' gas green top motor, then upgraded the valve springs and fit billet oil pump to it. 1200cc injectors and a 460 E85 compatible fuel pump. Also fitted a rebuilt upgraded 4speed auto from a performance shop in Melbourne capable of handling 400-450rwkw. Tuner had issues getting the car to make power. It was much lower than it should have been for the boost it was running. Instead of the expected 400+kw it was making about 330kw. We were wanting to run about 18psi but at about 15psi boost started bypassing rings and lifting the dipstick out. Although the engine itself was cheap enough to buy... the cost of all the work and tuning was in vain. In the end rebuilt the original FPV engine using new FG turbo pistons, rings bearings etc. Long story short... build your original engine if the block and head check out to be ok. Unless you plan on big hp no need to go forged. You can make 450kw safely all day long and have a happy drive train.
Rebuild the engine your self will help with later issues if there is any that come up and give good knowledge of you put into the block and nothing cheap or dodgy will go into it cause you will want to do it 100%
This is the first time ive watched a video of yours but im definitely sticking around for the ride. I say full rebuild mate. Really enjoyed watching even though it was shithouse news. Good Luck with the mighty barra 👌
Nah man . You’ll rebuild the engine jus for another problem to occur . Your jus throwing money away bro . I owned one of these and couldn’t get a break with money . ALWAYS another problem
Just get a cheap non turbo FG motor all you really need to do is take all your stuff off the fucked motor and transfer it to the new one also look into getting a billet oil pump
Mate, they won't just "cut fuel" in 2030 in Australia we'll have 15 million cars that won't work overnight. Fuel will be available in some form of another for at least 100 years, they are working on sythtic fuels ATM.
I had to get an NA engine, but all I'm using to build myself a decent engine is the block and the crank, I had the crank regrounded, I know a lot of people up here in Darwin where I live are scratching their heads with my engine build as they are like the money I've spent on these engine I could have bought a half decent BA-BF, as it's going into an EF GLi sedan, but I've own quite a few falcons in my life and I love the barra engine but hated my BA xr6t as I forever fixing it from all the lil problems it had
@@georgeauto Yeah good choice I like the Barra but there's more that goes wrong you can get 1200 horse power out of a worked 4 litre but that much power on the streets is over kill I'm happy with just 500 and the motors are strong and the trans and diffs last longer you will be happy with the au motor it's a great donk.
I purchased my FG 5 years ago and had the same issue you had. I just drove it around for awhile put some more K on it then rebuilt the motor. It has been great ever since. My xr6 isn't turbo. But I'm getting 255kw at the wheels natural aspirated. Too many mods to mention what I had done to it. But i give some example the cam package cold air intake, injectors extractors and exhaust along with platinum spark plugs and the tune along with LSD turbo diff racing fly wheel and fuel pump than all the racing internal parts in the engine It's not as fast as a turbo . Heaps of my mates said you should put a turbo package on it. With the mods I've done I can easily without needing to upgrade the motor bas ive basically done every mod for that already. But turbo stuff up to much. Every few years you have to replace it. So I just kept my car natural aspirated. My car scares the shit out of me when I plant the foot down. I don't know how you guys go with 300kw to 400kw+ to me thats too fast. It's a death machine.
Wow man that’s the most power I’ve heard of From a NA that’s awesome you’d beat turbos easy with no lag , how does it sound ? I do not like the sound of a NA barra with an exhaust but I’m guessing with all those other mods that you have it must sound better then a stock one with the 2.5 exhaust
Awesome video mate keep them coming and so shit when that happens it happened to me I got my GTSR from WA got all the way to Sydney and then wouldn’t start I was like I just paid 126k for a 🍋🍋🍋🤬 got it home and took it to get looked at and the injectors was to big 🤬 the W557 package are shit
Dude.... rebuild it yourself. Atleast then you know every damn parts right. Strip it all apart, redo it all, mod it further if there are other mods to help you hit that 400rwkw mark. When I pulled my SS engine apart all the chain tensioner stuff was broken and down in the sump etc.... I upgraded all the shiz to make sure it was good apart from obviously touching that bottom end crank rod etc.
Great Car I know of 2 engine rebuilders(NOT MECHANICS!) that have been rebuilding engines since the early 80's. One is based in Lipton dri e Thomastown and the other works from home in Croydon (he is a gun ! With balancing) not sure what they Charge...but all is transparent and both welcome visits to Inspect progress As for suspension...am personally NOT a fan of coilovers...they ride too darn hard (had both BC racing and KW Coilovers >($3800)on my SSV redline) have settled with Bilsteins and threw everything whiteline at my car huge sway bars, lower sway bar links(and super pro top strut mounts) and now it has zero body roll and behaves fantastic over bumps on shitty Melbourne roads. Hook me up if you want personal Info on the engine rebuilders
Make good out of a bad. Rebuild engine yourself with your mate(s), and try have have fun and learn. . There's heaps of youtube videos on how to build barra. Street machine TV have done a bit. Obviously will need to outsource machining work, Maxx may help out there. Get some green top rods. If you want to keep car value, keep original block. Or if not that confident pay the money and get original engine rebuilt.
My in-laws had a Toyota lexus SUV electric car.. paid 22k for it shitted out 3rd day they had it, it wouldnt charge properly all sorts problems! Tryd get refund they dodged it in-laws took them court an still no payments..eventually they tell me about it I sent some heavys round there collect, cut them in 3k had it sorted within 2days!🤣 Like yeh story mate when in doubt if the law can sort it there is always other options!😈
Nothing new this is common... the risk you take buying 2nd hand high performance cars.. the funny thing is people spending a fortune on the cars yet too tight and lazy to service them. Most have been thrashed and time bombs. 🤷 I would suggest you cough up and just rebuild that engine
Drain around 2ltr of oil from engine and add 2 ltr of kerosene on top. Drive around for 2days. The kerosene dissolve oil sludge and thins the oil. Make sure to drain the thinned oiled after two days. And, in those 2 days of driving be very gentle to engine. If you dont believe it, take just the rocket cover off after 2 days and you will see the shining metal free of sludge. It sounds too simple whats the catch you ask? Kerosene is no friend to rubber. So if your engine has any gasket that is made up of rubber which comes to contact with might get dmamaged. Thats why drive slow for those 2 days.
Brother did you seriously not get a pre purchase inspection? Yeah the car yard based on what you say scummy but you gotta take some if not most the blame for trusting some guy you spoke to on the phone from an online sale. Ppi. Furthermore why on earth would u get all that work done on your car at max performace before even doing a rudimentary oil change! Who checks their oil filter AFTER spending 16k on upgrades. This is a cautionary tail in how NOT to purchase and mod a used car
Have the exact same car, Ave 12k/yr, oil changes every 6k, still like new inside, slight varnish, no sludge. Pull the engine down get everything cleaned, inspect and replace whats needed, add some billet pump gears and a new timing chain set while your at it. at worst you paid 5k or so too much for the car plus your effort, lesson learnt for not inspecting first. most of it is wear and tear parts but you could try hitting up the dealer for some compensation seeing they could be seen as misleading. remember the more you mod it the less of a collector car it will be.
Strip the engine down and fully rebuild everything from scratch, forged everything.. make the engine like brand new again, best to spend some money again knowing everything will be way better than it should
