Today I suffered the same damage to my vehicle (fiat bravo t jet) 2-3 Days it smelled of burnt plastic and the two contacts were joined together... I made the contacts and now it works normally!! Thank you very much for your knowledge!!
Honestly had an Alfa Romeo for 6 years now and the 1,2, and 3 never worked. Took it to multiple places and couldn’t fixed it so this video made me go look at it. 20 minutes got it working! Cheers 😂
oh my god, my ten fan is sightly broken and it makes a horrendous noise on the 4th gear, and it was truly a nightmare driving around with it (since the 1 2 3 didn't work)... Thank you SOOO much for such an easy explanation and solution for a stupid problem
Just wanted to let you guys know that it worked on my sister's Grande Punto. Well done, and thank you guys! For those, like me, that had zero on all fan speeds, do give this a try, first, as just for unplugging and plugging back the plug, my sister said the fan then started working on speed 4! This is when I then decided to go all the way, as I was more inclined to the fuse, at first! Again, thank you!
i would do more and actually take a closer look at the pins. mine had the 4th pin (the negative) covered in some kind of black residue or corrosion. cleaned it. but can't do the same to the plastic black connector. so i need to revisit this some time. just spraying contact spray in there isn't going to cut it.. it works now. but i myself noticed a melted spot on the outside of the connector and that negative pin got REAL hot at some point before the fan stopped working. so you just unplugging and plugging it back in. might have actually made it worse because it might now be in that state of working. but too much resistance on the pin causing it to heat past rating.. fan works now. but you might have a fire risk. go back to it. and make sure the connector is clean and you have a good clean connection. maybe even use a crimp tool to replace the crimp on the female connector. (i say female. but for the plastic parts the black connector is actually the male. while for the metal parts. the black connector is the female.) anyway you get my point. the pins are easy to clean. but the bits that the pins go into are not easy to clean. i would even say impossible to clean. and should be replaced. (these easely crimp on if you can get the individual wire out of the plastic connector. and cost penny's) at the verry verry least. unplug and replug it several times. so you are grinding the male and female pin together and the rust that might be interfering can be reduced.
@@darkracer1252 hi thank you for the help but I actually ended up just buying a new resistor on eBay for about 9 euro I did notice that the old one got really hot and I did have to unplug and plug it back in a few times because it was intermittent so I got concerned about it and just installed a new one I have been using it for 2 months now and I have had zero issues I think in the future I'd replace the resistor as they are only 9 euro but thanks for the comment I appreciate the help
Thanks for sharing, very helpful. If you remember, can you please share the size of the screwdriver (@ 1:05 min of the video) used to open the screw on the heater resistor that's holding it in place?
My Alfa Romeo Mito 1.4 has the exact same issue and the switches are similar. Chances of this working for the Mito too? Anyway, I’ll try tomorrow and updated you👍
Yes mate let me know if it works! Or even if the heater blower plug etc just looks the same when you take it out. I’ll add it to the video description for anyone having the same issue can find it.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Success! It’s pretty much exactly the same as in your video. Just the screw is a bit more difficult to access. So I started by applying the contact spray from the outside with a tight tube that I stuck into it. Turned the baby on, and the fans are back running on all settings! Thanks for your vid mate🙌
If you only have 4 speeds, then the 10 amp fuse on the rheostat itself has blown. This fuse it does not burn out due to a short circuit, but only due to heat, you can replace it with a synod that is placed on water boilers. From 10 amperes. But that didn't solve everything, because the cause of synod burning is dust in the fan itself, as well as its bearings, which need to be cleaned and lubricated.
ok i thought the guy above saying that playing around with the plug got speed 4 working again was full of it. but you take the cake my friend. the hell are you talking about. nr1 this thing is on a 7.5 amp fuse. nr2 speed 1-3 are what uses this thing and this thing is just a resistor of increasing value's for speed 2 and 1.. and a heatsink because resistors get hot. you know what you sound like? a car mechanic that want's to scam his customer with that last sentence.
i have a diffrent punto. but i have the exact same problem. 1-2-3 don't work. and 4 does. no fuses are destroyed either. (because apparantly there is a diffrent fuse for speed 1 and 2 according to my manual) so my guess is that in my punto (type 2) there is one of these things aswel. it happened over night so corrosion is the only thing i can thing of. btw. yes it was on the same side. and yes it was the same problem. although mine had black residue on it and it was obvious what pin was the problem. little side note. with a flat head screw driver i was able to walk the pins out of the green connector. (they are basicly a press fit. with 2 little nubs on the side of the pin to grab onto the plastic these just slide out. but don't pull on it by holding the ceramic bit. you don't want to stress those connections. you can do that once the pins have already been walked out by half. do it bit by bit. left side. right side. left side right side left side right side. untill it's free.) with them removed from the green connector it's alot easyer to clean the pins with some scotch bright or a small file or sandpaper. oh. and mark the plastic and the ceramic with a permanent marker. so you can see wich way around it fits back together. to make sure the connector isn't reversed and you cause an even bigger problem.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos yeah it works. but i am still iffy about the black connector. i wanna see(on another day) if i can get the individual wires out. and recrimp a new connector on the wire. because all i did was spray it with contact spray and plug it back in. but the flat pins on the actual resistor were completely cleaned and are like new.
@@darkracer1252 putting a bit of twist on the pins helps to make a tighter connection. Changing the connectors in the plug would be the best solution if possible though. I did similar in this other video but on a rear light unit. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-43gt2vfi9y0.htmlsi=GCO73iu7zp3xC0wT
Same issue with my punto no heating or air con for about 2 years, have a work van and rarely use it but sent it in to get fixed and he said the connections were burnt out so sorted it and charged me £20 which is decent really but only worked for 2 days 😂. I’ll give this a go
Definitely give it a go mate. It sounds like he’s probably done the same thing but possibly not cleaned the connection well enough. This one is used regularly, and has been fine since this video was made a while ago.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I got in there and figured out the connector block is loose in the port, a bit loose on the right. Looks a bit cracked, got it going again but might slip out again. Least I know how to sort it though cheers 👍
When it has had oil in it at some point in its life was it 5w30? Our Panda had 5w30 in it and the level dropped after about 800miles, since using 5w40 C3 in the 1.2 I've never had an issue since
I give it a service in September 2020, that was probably last time it was looked at 😂 I did a vid, and in the video I show the fucking air filter going on backwards cos I took the old one out backwards, then fitted the new one same way. I realised it was wrong so took it back out and re-shot the fitting of it again but the right way for the vid, then when I edited it all I put the wrong section into the vid and show the air filter in backward haha, what a dumb shit 🤦♀️ ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CulF7CJH6H4.html
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos great, going to try it on my Gpunto 2009 with contact cleaner and twisting does connections. Tryed once with wd40 only without twisting but only lasted for a week. Tnx for replay
@@nikolastanojevic9116 yea it’s better to take it out and clean it as good as possible too. The little bit of twist should cause a tighter fit and a better connection.
taking it out and cleaning it propperly is recommended. you wouldn't want to start a fire. seeing as mine melted the connector a little bit before it fully gave out. (wich caused me to find this video) be carefull if "just unplugging or just spraying with contact spray" these are temporary fixes that can cause bigger problems. propperly clean the connector. BOTH SIDES.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I think it's my blower fan. I had a drop of water in my passenger side foot well. I had a look and spotted some rusted screws with water around them. 😬
WD40 is better than nothing tbh, I don’t think it’s any more flammable than contact cleaner but if contact cleaner is available, I’d definitely use it over wd40
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos i don't think he is reffering to it being flammable. it's just a diffrent composition. it's not the same stuff. wd40 will leave a residue when it dries up. contact spray won't. this residue could be the source of a fire by either catching fire itself. but mostly by making the connection even worse than it was before. that said. wd40 the brand. does make contact cleaner. wd40 the stuff. is just a solvent for rust and oil. but mainly it's a water displacement formula. (40) (that's what the name stands for. Water Displacement nr 40. the 40th formula they came up with.)
It’s normal for them to stop blowing when you’ve been together for a while while,.. Could be totally failed heater resistor, a fault on the motor itself or even the switch. Hard to say without investigation.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos i think it's the fuse. mine has 2 fuses for the fan. according to the book. F06 and F07 are for this fan. (interior fan) but the book only speaks about speed 1 and speed 2. no mention of 3 and 4. knowing how this thing works now. i can determin that speed 1-3 on my knob. are one of the 2 fuses. and speed 4 is the other fuse. because at speed 1-3 power goes through this resistor and then to the motor. and at speed 4 power goes directly to the motor. and with that information. my guess is that your speed 4 doesn't work. because it's fuse it out. now if it DOES blow. but not fast.. then ignore what i said. and ignore the video. you probbably have a completely diffrent system. (since you also said you had climate control). and none of this would help. (this comment is more for other people finding this. since it's obviously been a year)
i used pliers to pull on it harder because i thought i didn't have enoegh grip and it was just tight in there. but when using my hands i just didn't squeeze hard enoegh. the latch was still engaging. because it actually goes in super easy, barely an inconveniance. seriously though it goes in without much force or resistance. meaning it should also come out the same. but it doesn't. so it just needs to be squeezed harder.
little side note and PSA to everyone else. don't just run it on speed 4 this way. i only ran it like that for a little bit. and my connector has evidence of melting on it. ever so slightly but it's there. now obviously the corrosion has increased the resistance on these pins. increased it so much that speed 1-3 stopped working. but speed 4 is full power. it's enoegh to power through the resistance. wich causes the pin to heat up. wich can cause fire. just check around your electrics in the car. that hex bolt that mine was tightened down with was corroded aswel. obviously the previous owners have left it in a moist enviroment. the fuse isn't going to notice this btw. there is still the same amount of power flowing through the connector. the same amperage and same voltage. but because of the corrosion it's going through a smaller portion of the metal pin. this is the same to that pin as putting a higher voltage and amperage through the connector if it was new.
i'm just going to comment on it and not alter the original. but the above is wrong. just to show that even though it sounds reasonable it isn't. and even though you think you have the answer you gotta keep thinking about it. ok so the reason the fan works on speed 4. is because the device above isn't used at all at speed 4. on speed 4 the full power goes to the fan. basicly a direct connection to the power source. if you choose speed 3. then this device is used. and the power needs to go through it instead. and all this thing is. is just a resistor. at speed 3 it's just a small resistance. and causes the fan to slow down. speed 2 is a bigger resistance. and the fan slows down even more. speed 1 the same thing. even bigger resistance. fan even slower. and speed 0 is just off. no power going through anything. this thing is just a series of resistors in a ceramic package acting as a heatsink. and the way it's mounted is directly infront of the actual fan motor. so the fan blowing will keep it cool. (wich is kindof scary since at speed 1 this thing would heat up the most. but the fan is turning the slowest so has the least cooling capability.) in any case, there you have it. now you know what this device is. how it functions and why the fan doesn't work on speed 1-3. the one pin i had with black residue that looked like oil. was the neutral pin. (in most electric systems btw i have noticed. it's always the neutral or negative pole that gets the most corrosion probbably some electrolasis going on there.)
Kind of. My understanding is that on full power the resistor is bypassed hence why when it fails the fan still works on full power. The resistor is in series to the motor and is there to lower the voltage. Changing the switch selects which circuit of the resistor the current flows through. The contacts on the resistor are the most common failure point and cleaning them up more often than not fixes the issue you have
level 4 causes nothing because level 4 doesn't use this thing. level 1-3 each use one of the 4 pins. and the 4th pin is the negative where powers comes out of this RESISTOR. and goes to the motor. at speed 4. this thing is bypassed and the motor is powered directly. wich is why speed 4 works fine and speed 1-3 stop working. DO NOT SPREAD YOUR FILTHY MISINFORMATION!!! 4 can never cause the problem. because 4 isn't even connected to this device.
Your hilarious I’d like to thank 😂😂😂 my heater isn’t working either in my punto evo I’m also a girl n only put oil in when the engine management light comes on seems to work. I’m still resentful and offended by your misogynistic slur against females do better 😁 #me2
