Field Growing for Bonsai - Scar treatment 

Thanks so much Benjamin. 🙏🏻

Glad you enjoyed it. Flattering to know the audience extends to the UK!

Than you! Yes, I’ve noticed that too and so I intend to do more like this. Thanks for commenting.

WOW! I am humbled by your comment. I will continue to do my best, thank you for watching.

Thanks Ina! Glad you found the channel too :) Sounds great, you are very luck to have access to such an amount of material. That's wonderful and I wish you the best of luck with it.

HA ha ha! Its certainly an addictive practise, from time to time I sort out of my collection and put any rooted cuttings etc which are taking up time watering into the ground too to see what happens. Of course field growing is not growing bonsai but I think if you can be part of the entire process from field to pot it makes you a more interesting bonsai artist :)

@@TerryErasmusbonsai it has to be a part, well, if you want powerful trunks it does!! Thanks for the reply!! Cheers!

Thanks so much Les!

So nice of you! Will do my best William

Thank you kindly!

My pleasure!

Glad you liked it!

Glad you liked it!

Thank you Lits. Glad you found it informative

My pleasure!

Most welcome

Thanks John. Unfortunately I do not field grow pines so I will not be able to do this, unless I visit my friends in Japan who do, and then take some videos there. I am happy to do that but COVID currently still prevents me from travelling but I already have a plane ticket :)

Terry Erasmus no worries! Thanks for the great videos!

Welcome

Thanks Justin. Yes, there are quite a few Celtis in the ground there and I am sure I will be generating more content on them. No, the tree you refer to had no grafting done on it. If the chops are done on healthy trees which are growing vigorously, at the end of spring or when the spring leaves have hardened, then you must get new shoots. If this is not so then there must be some other problem however I would be guessing as to what because I've never experienced no response. Let me know your thoughts please.

Thanks Sabik. The soil there is very clay with lots of stones too - a real pain when digging! Chinese maples handle full sun, if yours are burning it is not because of the sun it is an imbalance/problem in your vegetative growth and rootzone. I dont have fungal issues as the trees grow closely to fruit trees on the farm and I suspect my trees get spray drift when they spray their trees because I have never sprayed them with anything - I also never feed them. With regards to how I plant them please read this blog post I wrote: www.bonsaitree.co.za/blogs/tree-talk/75247555-field-growing-bonsai-trees

Yes it will for sure as there is still going to be cambium either side.

Good question. I cannot tell you how long as I've not been used Top Jin for more than a few years now but what I applied when I did first start using it is still sound on the trees I applied it to.

Awesome to know that I have some viewers in Ukraine! All we hear in the news in negative and scary so I am glad you are still focusing on your bonsai. Thanks for your comments. Sure, there are many ways to accomplish something in bonsai. I am still learning and perfecting my technique after doing this now for more than 15 years. I think I understand what you mean with the idea of the flap of bark. I have seen this illustrated in books, although a much larger flap, but I have never seen it being performed or what the actual result is as I've only seen illustrations not photographs. I think that if you can do the work fast enough, that the tree has a flexible (young) bark and that the cambium does not dry out while you are busy it has potential. I would certainly encourage you to try it, this is my approach to things - we say in English "Don't knock it until you try it!" Too many sheep out there, don't be a sheep :) But personally I think the bark flap has a strong chance of simply die'ing back. One more thing, in my experience if you start the healing process in late spring the initial callous formation is very smooth for that first 1cm or so, then it begins to accelerate and puts on a thicker layer, so I am not sure much would be gained from the extra trouble of the carving etc work.

I like learning opportunities like this where you have nothing to lose as it allows you to really push boundaries. Ordinarily I would proceed with caution as I have lost trunks by cutting too low in one step, despite the tree being very healthy and doing the cuts at the right time. Regards sapflow, if the tree is pushing already and you cut it, sealing will help very little as the force of the sap will push through as the sealer will not be able to dry fast enough to prevent it. The best is to cut and seal when sapflow pressure is lower. You can start carving at any time really. Carving just after repotting is not a great idea though due to the movement the carving will create, better to wait till the tree has stabilized.

@@TerryErasmusbonsai so glad you reminded me that the sap flow will slow down in winter. Last winter would have been good with it being so cold. But I just thought of it with this video. I will wait. Thanks so much. For the advice and the idea 💡

Interesting challenge Robert and without seeing photos its difficult to make suggestions. What I can say is that if you want to work with "odd" material don't attempt to make it look normal, rather emphasize this difference instead of hiding it. What that looks like in practise I cannot really tell you. I would probably leave the burl as is, and not try to grow branches from it, you don't see branches growing out of burls in nature from what I know.

@Ching Vang ha ha. Not quite

Thanks Edward. There is an automatic irrigation system with micro sprayers. This is controlled by a system which supplies the fruit trees in the same area with water.

Thank you!

Sorry but I don’t understand