I think Dave is right about disc brakes on cheaper bikes. I have 105 hydraulic discs on my current bike and like them a lot, but quality rim brakes are surely better than cheap mechanical disc.
I owned two bikes one with 105 hydro and one 105 with TRP SLC spyre mechanical set up with Compressionless outers, both calipers are set up with Swiss stop green resin pads, I found the Mechanical with 160mm rotors felt and stopped as good as my hydro on 140mm rotors, ultimately the hydro on 160mm stopped me a foot or two shorter. But I choose to sell a bike and I kept the TRP SLC spyre mechanical the main reason is Shimano has a horrible big lump where the hydro hose connects to the lever, it absolutely digs into my hand and winds me up! The mechanical R7000 levers are so much comfier without that hydro hose! Also the trp slc are super easy to set up and adjust, and with Compressionless outers transmit the power really well, plus when ya wheels are off there is zero issues if your levers get pressed etc.
Thanks for having an impartial and rational conversation about it, especially given the amount of experience you have with all types of bikes. It seems like you're the only cycling publication capable of doing that.
When I moved to discs over 3 years ago there was so much chat about increased maintenance. Apart from changing the pads I have had absolutely no maintenance with the hydraulic brakes whatsoever, and they work as well now as the day I bought them. Genuinely think you make the cost back over time by not needing to replace cables.
@@danloveuk Shimano uses mineral oil - there's no need to replace the mineral oil very often. Some do it all 5 years or so. Because of maintenance reasons I switched to a front disc brake on my commuter, since it adjusts itself (while V brakes don't) it don't cause additional maintenance but saves maintenance instead
Depends on the conditions in which you ride. If you’re riding a road bike in good weather on country roads, you don’t brake that much and they’ll be easy to maintain. If you ride in conditions including rain, snow, road slush and salt (like me :) ), discs don’t do very well, a lot of work to keep them functional, and they don’t work very well. Better than rim brakes of course, but not a panacea. If I had it to do over again with my commuter bike, I would have gone with mechanical discs, to reduce some of the maintenance demands.
@@PhiyackYuh really depends. I’ve had a good rim brake on a ridge back road bike at £600. My hydrolic breaks on my£1000+ mtb wasn’t as good.. the grade of component doesn’t always mean it’s great. I just tried tektro hydrolics. .. they aren’t much diff then my pro max mechanical, long term the more exp should be better.. but breaking distance isn’t like 100% better. For me personally, the break compound makes a huge diff. A sticky rim break which wears out in 6 months has unbelievably good stoping power. But it wears real quick. Disc brake compounds are a lot harder, even organic pads are not so sticky Best breaks I’ve ever used was on the road bike. Super sticky pads on the rim brakes. Given the speeds I’m travelling . Better then most disc brake I’ve used on road /gravel/mtb This is just personal opinion. Always best to try them out
There is another category for disc brakes: Not just 2 - - Sure there is cable disc brakes, and Hydraulic brakes - - there is a 3rd option A self enclosed Cable-actuated hydro brake. and while it is NOT as good as full hydro - is IS hugely better than plain mechanical disc brakes. and the cheap cost of cable disc brakes, and the expensive levers and brakes for full hydro, cable actuated-hydro units ARE between these two extremes and a good option from HY/RD, Juin, Zrace, and others. That aside, any debate about disc vs. rim... Sorry Rim brakes loose big time, I ride gravel and I want to be able to stop. Hate all you want there is no substitute for disc brake.
This is something we discuss in the written article. Those sorts of brakes are certainly an option aftermarket, but they're almost never included OEM, which is the context of the discussion in the video.
@@angryasian74 I was lucky to have cable actuated hydros on my gravel bike (GT Grade) directly from shop. I like them almost as much as the full hydros on my mountain bikes and a lot more than my previous bike's mechanical discs.
I have hy/rd on one bike and Yokozuna on 2 bikes and love them. So close to full hydraulic but with ease of mechanical. I can also swap out to different setups easily. I recently switched my salsa Fargo from drop bars to flat bars and kept my Yokozuna brakes without an issue.
Dave is right about the detriment of discs on entry level bikes. Lots of comprises are made to slap the cheapest mechanical disc setup onto some of those bikes that would be better served with rim brakes.
The biggest issues isn't always cheap mechanical brakes but often cheap housing and cables. Which is why people both love and hate c550 brakes they are great with good housing and rubbish with bad housing. That is very typical of cable brakes as a whole.
On the other hand on flat bar bikes you get hydraulic brakes like the MT200 for 25 €, which are still quite good as long as you don't need 1 or 2 finger brakes. It's a perfect brake for commuting, and even good enough for XC riding. Just the need for drop bar specific levers means they can't be used on road bikes, and you don't get inexpensive hydro brakes for drop bar
Another factor is type of rim brake. In-line or V brakes have great modulation but require long-pull levers and very few dropbar brakes are long pull, none that also shift I don’t think. If the industry made them I’d build a bike around them-while I still have rim brake wheels knocking about.
Refreshingly honest takes. Personally, I had hydraulics, mechanicals and rim brakes on my three bikes. For simplicity’s sake, I’ve removed the hydraulics from the bike thad had them. Given the shortages these past two years, replacing a steel cable is more of a sure bet over brake fluid… specially proprietary ones
Proprietary brake fluid isn't necessary. I assume you had a Shimano or a SRAM brake. SRAM uses DOT which is widely availiable at every auto shop. Shimano mineral oil can be substituted for any other without issue (Tektro, Magura etc).
@@lenolenoleno I was actually referring to Campgnolo. I don’t really know if other mineral oils work for Campagnolo brakes, but I’m open to being enlightened hehe
@@RicardoRocha-lg1xo You 100% can use other brands. Brands will always say their brakes are optimized for "their" mineral oil but if you look at any of their MSDS sheets the variance is pretty minor (as in, it won't break your system/seals/o-rings, and in worst case scenario you can simply re-bleed with their 'official' oil).
A friend of mine played bike polo for years using baby oil for his Shimano brakes and never had any issues, and we brake constantly while playing, brakes get pretty spicy 🔥
Hydraulic brakes are great for summer! Winter requires cable actuated disc brakes. In Montreal today, with the windchill, It was -36 Fahrenheit. That's not a typo! My rear TRP hydraulic line froze!
I'm still skeptical. Show me the data that indicates disk makes you faster on a track or in a race, and also that hydraulic is faster than mechanical disc. I don't believe any of this is needed, and I believe it's simply a matter of what you're used to. I have strong hands, most people do, and it doesn't bother me to use my little fingers to press a little harder when what I really need to worry about is the hundreds of watts my legs are outputting, and how to make that more efficient. etc. My two cents! : )
Thanks for another interesting and informative field test. CT is a must not miss on any tech related product/tool/maintenance for me. I trust Dave R. , Dave “shoddy” E. , and James H. ‘s opinions . How about a little old school stuff , for all of us that like steel n titanium rim brake road bikes. I have a fatbike w/hydro brake, gravel bike w/mech discs and a Moots ti road bike with Campy 12 speed Record and Campy Bora wto tubeless rim brake wheels. The braking is superb on the rim brakes. I live in hilly, not mountainous terrain and I never lack for stopping power or have any braking issues with rim brakes. Plus, I love the ride feel of my road bike. There are still a lot of us out here, and the industry is missing out because we are all buying n.o.s. or used components to be able to ride what we want. I know CT editors agree at least partially because I listen to the podcasts and here the occasional mention of an editors “rim brake , non-aero, non-carbon, non-internally routed favorite bike ;-) Keep up the good work and thanks, Dave
would be nice to have some information on which mechanical brakes worked better, I'm sure we'd all choose hydraulic (and dura ace) but not always in the budget
Read some reviews. But beware that brakes work as a unit with the lever. So you can get some that work well with Shimano levers but not with SRAM and vice versa. Trp spyres are a reasonable quality, reasonable affordable brake, but my experience is they work better with Shimano levers vs SRAM levers. Swap out the stock pads for Shimano pads when they wear out and you'll get some more power. Swap out the cable housing for compressionless if you have some extra $$$ and that will help too...
@@jessejamesdaniels had two sets of spyre (endurance road & CX bike). I fail to see why they get such rave reviews, poor braking power, need to adjust cabling regularly & the mechanism gunks up and needs a teardown. I know several people who had similar experiences. Avid BBs would have been better.
When I got my first dual-pivot campy brakes I was amazed coming from old campy super record brakes. I guess disc brakes might be needed going down hills on tour, but I must be missing something here. 🤔
Hydraulic are great as long you dont deal with leaking pistons - as it is common problem with shimano. Good mechanical such as paul klampers are fantastic
I have both hydraulic and mechanical brake bikes. I adjust things to perfection and recently converted a mechanical to hydraulic. I think braking power wise, hydraulic is overhyped compared to a “decent” mechanical brake. You get about the same braking power. Most hydraulic brakes are basically just hydraulic brakes pushed by fluid instead of cables unlike cars where there are brake boosters to multiply force. In terms of lever feel, hydraulic is unmatched because you’re not battling against the cable friction and the spring tension of your calipers, I love the feel of hydraulic levers. I do notice most cheap bikes these days with mechanical disc brakes, levers are a lot harder to pull, almost like the caliper spring tension is too great maybe that’s where all of the bad reputation about mechanical disc brakes requiring a lot more force for the same braking power is coming from. A decent mechanical disc brake with properly adjustable cable should feel nice and easy to engage at the levers. Maintenance wise, honestly it’s the same, if you can replace cable and housing, you can bleed a hydraulic disc brake. Overall, my opinion(only mine) is if you go from a “decent” mechanical to hydraulic and expect a magical increase in braking power, you will be disappointed. If you don’t like springy lever feel and want a nice refined lever pull feel, you will love hydraulic. It is a nice upgrade but there is absolutely nothing wrong with mechanical brakes.
I have Avid BB7s on my hardtail, with a 203mm rotor on a Rock Shox Tora fork (32mm stanchions, 100mm travel). I've never felt the need to "upgrade." To be fair, I basically use the hardtail as a gravel bike, and in that role, the BB7s are almost overkill. I suspect a good mechanical brake is better than a cheap hydraulic brake, and there is some cross over point where the hydraulic brake is superior. I have not installed compressionless housing on my bike, and I wonder if that will reduce the sponginess we feel in mechanical disc brakes.
I think I get a certain amount of tactile feedback with mechanical brakes opposed to hydraulic brakes. I've been in some extremely dangerous situations where it was more about the range of the pressure once engaged, than purely locking the wheels. Sometimes you want to sllow down but not lock your wheels because then you don't stop, you skid and knowing exactly how much more or less to engage the front brake, rear brake, of both simultaneously does more than keep you from a spill. It can save your life. I was so close to getting impaled from a splintered fallen tree that it ripped through my t-shirt, about about an inch from my kidney snd I saw it, hit my brakes, realized I needed more pressure to totally lock the rear wheel to initiate a skid that gave me that extra little clearance to avoid the wooden spike and it all happened in less than 1.5 seconds. It was skill, not luck but I wouldn't have been able to do it on hydraulics because you don't feel any "feedback" and that feedback can save your ass like it saved my kidney..
Disc brakes are just not needed for road biking. If your going carbon wheels i get disc. Alloy rims and rim brakes works great and your bike is about 3 lbs lighter and its easy to fix.
The key benefit of discs is too often forgotten……..wider tyre clearances. Rim brakes limit to 28-30mm. I’ve used mech,mech/hydro and hydro: for bang for buck the Juno Tech R1 mech/hydros are surprisingly good. Not quite full hydros but close enough.
I have an old road frame limited to about 700x28c tires. With long reach Tektro calipers, it will clear 650x42 but the rear stays limit to 38c. The challenge is to release the brakes enough to remove or install the wheels. The advantage of discs is that they are set up at the hub so wheel size or tire width does not affect adjustment. You could switch from 700x38 road wheels to 650x55 without changing anything else.
I wished that the panelists had covered the question of rim wear when using rim brakes. How much of an issue is that? I'm curious, as both of my vintage bikes have rim brakes. Another question I wished they'd addressed was how often do hydraulic brakes need to be bled on bicycles? On motorcycles, it's generally every 2-3 years. Is the maintenance interval the same for bicycle disc brakes? Why or why not?
Clean your rims regularly, use high quality brake pads (Swissstop, kool stop, shimano R55C4 or S70C) and they will last +20.000km-forever. Bleeding depends on the liquid used: Mineral oil needs a bleed just when something is wrong. DOT4 / DOT5 (Sram) needs a bleed every 1-3 years depending on how often you ride
I have two disk bikes both with “mechanical disk” TRP SLC Carbons, with 140 rotors and compression less outers, “I stop just fine! , “a lot shorter than my rim brake bikes.” The fact is there’s only a 2 LBS difference more on pull on the mechanical disk brakes as vs the hydros to mimic hydro stoping power. I personally don’t feel a difference in that weight difference in pull. My wife has hydros on her bike and the only difference I can feel is a little less friction obviously because they are hydros, however my mechanical disk are really smooth and have almost a frictionless feel to them. Another good thing is that mechanical disk are far cheaper than hydros and ya don’t need fluid, or to worry about temperature changes, also ya don’t have to worry about brake fad with mechanical disk brakes. Another good thing is there easy to set up and a snap to maintain.
I have been using Paul Klampers for about 6 months. Super expensive/lead time are long ($450 for a set, ordered Oct. received in Dec). They are heavy. But they work very well and set up is easy. Designed to work with standard stainless steel inner cable with standard housings. Mine are set up with sintered pads. Used with Shimano 105 levers and Sram Red Etap (11sp). They're simple, over engineered. You can orderin 4 anodized colors - mine are purple. I personally love mine. That said. Some people like me love them. Other's don't.
@@yonglingng5640 The only cable disc brake using 2 actuators is the TRP spyre. The disadvantage of 2 mechanical actuators is the caliper would be heavier and bigger with big bearings, so they have to make the bearings smaller. Hydros usually all have at least 2 pistons, at least at bicycles
Mechanical brakes can be set up to have less hand strain it's all about spring tension. Just need calipers that reduce that. Also one finger braking can be done with rim brakes. And a gyro. On short pull systems. Sounds like you need better housing Teflon coated inner wires and a compression less housing like nokon. Finger and thumb grease. Coat the inners. Use triflow through the cables as well once the housings are one. Make sure you work it through and run it till you see triflow come out the far end. But don't completely wash out the grease. Proper lubrication reduces the amount of tension needed which reduces fatigue. My bmx brakes with dual cables completely compressionless straight pull from lever to brake arms feels like a Hydro with the lowest lever tension you've felt. Springs back quick not quite as snappy as some are used to but low tension like extremely low. My springs are tensioned with fingers. Hydros just have more clamping force which is needed for discs. And get around the disadvantages of a disc system over rim brakes.
I have one set of mechanicals that are scary powerful, I wish I knew how to find another set, they are unbranded, but they use the same brake pads as the hydraulic shimano's, which I've never seen before. Can endo a 70 lb e-bike with no problem. Have to be careful at high speeds.
Mechanical disc brakes needs good housing to work the best. Unfortunately the housing that comes delivered on budget bikes may not be all that good. I bought a tandem some years ago with mechanical discs, and with the long cable runs you couldn't transfer the power to the rear brake, just too much flex in the housing. I changed to yokozuna housing, and the brake was transformed. Well-maintained hydraulics is still better of course, but for me it's not a strong enough reason to upgrade.
Hydraulic disc brakes are good but if you live in a very cold place and want to ride to work in the winter your brake fluid will freeze up if you have to live you leave your bicycle out side that is a big down side to hydraulic disc brakes for me.I may have to go back to mechanical brakes so I can ride in the winter more.I wish I had knew this before I switch over to hydraulic disc brakes.It get very cold in Maine.
The cheapest to maintain is rim brake / v brakes. It’s enough to stop the bike even when wet or raining. Tested it real life. To those folks saying rim bakes suck in wet condition, you’re not running incredible speeds like 60 miles per hour like a motor vehicle does, and definitely the bike isn’t as heavy as a car. How much stopping power you needs. Lots of folks saying you need a disc brake for stronger stopping power, in real life, disc brake indeed has more stopping power but you don’t really need that much stopping power in bicycles. Rim brake is enough. Again it’s not a heavy vehicle and you don’t run at very high speeds.
Yeah I don't get it either. Most people would be fine with v's. If you ride a lot, discs start to make sense. But Hydraulic? Unless you're doing some crazy XC or Downhill, what is the need for hydraulic? You've got to go through all of that hustle like bleeding the brakes and leaks and what not, just for an absurd amount of braking power you actually use maybe once or twice ever and even that's for just trying your new brakes. And the funny thing is, if you "downgrade" from your leaky, annoying hydraulic discs to mech discs, every one is screaming at you, calling you stupid and whining about safety concerns, while the real safety concern is riding home like 50km with almost no braking power at all, cause your hydraulics started to leak in the middle of your tour .... again.
And what about Giant's combi system. I have it on a 2017 Revolt that I use bikepacking. It's paired with a set of Tiagra levers. Works super. Only had to bleed it once in 5 years. Modulation and power are more than acceptable. Definitely cheaper that full hydraulic.
Have a 2018 Contend SL1 disc and it works really well & quietly (when pads are bedded it correctly), but it's quite ugly and does limit what lights you can put on your bars.
Hydraulic brakes are typically expensive on drop bar bikes (since the hydraulic levers there aren't available in lower groupsets), with flat bar bikes you get Mt 200s for 25 € and even massive 4 piston MT 420s for less than 70 € - the only available cable-hydraulic caliper is not really cheap too
I went from Spyre "Tiagra" level mechanical discs to Ultegra rim breaks and thought the rim brakes were far superior. I've since gone to 105 hydraulic discs. I'll never, ever have a rim brake bike again. I can only imagine how good Ultegra, Dura-Ace or top-end Sram hydraulic discs must be, because 105 is bloody good.
i have trp spyre with compressionless outers to here , i much prefer the simplicity of install and adjust vs hydrolic but for mtb i have to admit it is the way
If you use more than 1 finger to brake, then it might be hard to adjust braking power if the bike starts dipping (my reflex is to grip harder if things get out of control... ouch).
I wish they would have made a distinction between mech brakes for drop bar bikes and mech brakes for flat bar bikes. I have TRP Spyres (considered to be among the best mech brakes) on my drop bar gravel bike and they are horrible whereas I have bottom of the barrel Tektro brakes on a $900 cheap ebike and they work fine. TLDR: Mechanical brakes on drop bar bikes suck, mechanical brakes on a flat bar bike are fine.
I've always said hydraulic, as they just work, and have that 'bite' when you pull the lever. However, I wanted to give the mechanical discs a chance, so I bought the Crockett with mechanical discs, and they were okay, but nowhere near as good as hydraulics. In fact, my rim braked Domane, with SwissStop pads were just as good.
I used to think it was a cool idea until I worked on them. The bulkiness can lead to fitment issues on some frames. You also need an LBS that's capable of bleeding the brand you're riding (so far I only know Juin Tech and TRP HY/RD for the reputable brands). I'd say it's more trouble than it's worth, so either run full mechanical or hydraulic. I actually started out with mechanical disc brakes (Tektro Novela on a 14+ kg entry-level hardtail) more than 10 years ago which worked totally fine.
Contrary to what Yong Ling here said, I have very positive experiences with them. The maintenance needs have been non-existent though during all these years.
@@innocentiuslacrim2290 Off-topic: I don't know where you're from but thank you for getting my name right! BTW, what are your mechanical disc brakes? How much does your bike weigh?
Most popular hybrid brake is the Zoom HB-100. They work fine, but not reliable long term. Within 2000 kilometers three Zoom calipers have failed on me and started dripping the oil onto my rotors and pads, so I'm giving up on them. I'm currently trying to decide between full hydraulic and mechanical brakes.
@@for-real-tho If you're not planning to switch dual-control levers just yet, the TRP Spyre is a good choice. This is a mechanical model, but moves both brake pads simultaneously, doubling its stopping power compared to generic mechanical disc brakes.
Has anyone ever actually clipped a hydraulic housing? People love to use this as a benefit of mechanical brakes, but I can't recall ever seeing a cable that has failed this way, and I work as a bike mechanic! I've seen cables kinked, but they still work fine, and I've seen one hydraulic cable chewed up by a dog. But that's it...
In one case on one of my bikes the nut of the brake line got loose and I lost enough oil to disable the brake, but after tightening the nut and a bleed at home the brake was like new again. Hydros are gorgeous brakes.
@@simonm1447 Yeah, happens to mine all the time. Had them rebuild and everything. Nothing changed. No more pure hydraulic for me any more. Maybe cable actuated hydros some time in the future, but for now, classic mech disc.
V brakes can be quite powerful if the right brake shoes are used. In wet however you have almost no braking power for the first 2 wheel rotations, and freezing temperatures also reduce braking power since the rubber is getting harder if it's cold. They start to brake better if you got the rubber warm enough by braking.
I have been a pretty early adopter of road disc brakes and find that hydro discs, despite some drawbacks, are "the solution" for me I'm almost all cases. I initially had a commuter with mechanical MB brakes (Avid levers/Shimano calipers) and I have to say I have never had a problem with them (on the road or light trail use). I have had drop bar mechanical disc setups and they sucked no matter what I tried - different calipers, optimum cabling, etc. My unscientific conclusion is there is no way to obtain the combination of mechanical advantage and long cable pull that would be necessary for the mechanical disc/DB combination to work well, or that no manufacturer has really tried hard to make it so (given the option of selling a more expensive system).
I wonder what others folks have to say about the the cable actuated hydraulic calipers. It always seemed to be a good solution with no hoses to mess with and simple set up.
That's what I used to think, until I work on them. 1) You now have more to take care of: Cables, cable housings and hydraulic fluid. 2) They're bulky and heavy, they may not even fit some frames. 3) Some shops may not have the fittings and fluids needed to bleed them. There's no 50:50 way of going about it really, either stick with full mechanical or hydraulic.
One of my riding partners lost his hydraulic brakes on Mt. Evans and had to do a bleed prior to a decent. Is this a common issue with hydraulic brakes?
If you use a hydraulic brake with Dot 4 or Dot 5,1 (Sram) it can fail if it overheats (but it needs a massive heat for this). Hydros using mineral oil don't simply fail because oil isn't boiling, your pads will start to burn before the oil is failing. Beyond the Press channel tested XC brakes years ago on a big lathe, at the end the brake failed because the rotor was glowing and the hydraulic line started to melt after minutes braking on a glowing rotor
There is no price on products that keep you alive. Brakes are the only thing that are your only life insurance. I have been running disk brakes for about 22 years now.
Labor....? First world users... Cable actuated is the cheapest thing ever. You're so lazy that you have to "change cables" or "change housings"... When a hydraulic gets broken is A TOTAL NIGHTMARE TO SET IT BACK AGAIN. With mechanic you lose one screw and reroute the cable and is done. You need to tell cycling community that the need to learn basic mechanic by themselves. Not to take the bike to the shop when some screw got loose...
The only advantage on hydraulics is the simplicity of creating the mechanical advantage (force on the lever force applied on the disc) . But the same mechanical advantage could be achieved mechanically as well. It would a very simple engineering task in fact. Why don't we see more of that in the market?
In theory, you are correct that it's simple to replicate that sort of mechanical advantage. However, the difference between hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes is how well that input at the lever is translated to the caliper. In other words, how much is lost to friction and/or flex? It's something that's discussed in more detail in the written article (link in video description).
@@angryasian74 Ok thanks I'll check that. But my first thought would be that transmission losses due to friction are pretty minimal, if not totally negligible (with compressionless housing). You can feel it with cables installed but not connected to the brake, there is no resistance, or at least orders of magnitude less than what you pull while braking.
Always makes me laugh when the old 'disc brakes are better in the wet' line is trotted out. That may be true, but 99% of cyclists don't go out on their bike when it's pissing down.
I've had people make snide comments about my restored 1998 Gary Fisher with V-brakes. I like to ride it on my local trail, because the more-modern Dart fork (compared to what it came with) and 2" smooth tires make the bashed up, poorly maintained multi-use path feel like it's brand new tarmac! There are sections of this paved trail that will nearly knock your teeth out on a road bike. I live in Colorado. It's sunny literally 300 days of the year. I replaced the V-brakes and levers for about $75. Try that with hydros.
Please don't take this personal, you take a hose with a piston on a braided hose with no air in the lines identical to a car fluid becomes a solid substance like an imaginary bar now a solid substance identically as a cable, if there's any air in it it's going to be spongy cuz air can be compressed why all the air has to be out of the line same thing with a car the same Concepts identically cable or fluid they're identically the liquid weighs more than the cable on the short run AKA like a bike cable because it's very thin 0.1 mm I believe. Between the two mechanically or hydraulic there's no big difference you not talking about 50% it's all hype mechanical/Hydraulics work just as good AKA identically literally making me Google you need to learn more go to any Machine Shop they will walk you through the whole entire system not difficult you can teach a child not trying to stop an automobile 25 to 3,000 lb or 5,000 lb it's a bicycle. That's why semis don't use hydraulics they use air brakes now let's put that on bicycle why would they do that traveling with 80000 lb piece of equipment fully loaded curiosity Never Killed the kitties. Like I said don't take this personally no advertisement going on> on my side.
If you ride in a city traffic setting they will save your life, and keep you safer and faster then 99% of other riders that don't have them. - knowing you can stop in 0.35 seconds in less than a meter is a life changing circumstance. They've saved my life, and prevented others being careless, and not paying attention from being hurt by me COUNTLESS times. - never mind everyone else using them. - Try to be a little more open minded about things, and you'll learn more.
@@rustyburger Until they suddenly decide to leak and your insane braking power that could bring a truck to a halt within 10m is gone... and so are you at the next traffic light....
rim brakes are awesome if set up correctly Cable discs are Rubblish Hydro in many cases is over kill on a road race bike (unless its raining) but u wouldn't be on tbe bike racing then in 99% of cases anyway. #marketing
I started out on mechanical disc brakes (Tektro Novela + 14 kg entry-level hardtail) more than 10 years ago, never had to doubt my brakes' braking performance. Now I'm on rim brakes, all fine too. In a year or two, I'll be using hydraulic disc brakes, so we'll see how this plays out, but I think it wouldn't be a problem.
You got something mixed up here. Rim is complete trash. Cable discs are a good choice for most people. Hydros are awesome, as long as they are working that is.
