Why A Bike Fitter Still Chooses To Buy Rim Brake Bikes 

yes. #rimjobforlife

No? A disc brake is just as easy to maintain as a rim brake. You just throw your bike to the mechanic, and pick it up an hour or two later. How difficult is that? Walking to the bike mechanic with a rim half a decade ago, isn’t any easier compared to walking there with my now disc brake bike.

#SaveRimBrake

In my group rides… there’s a 50:50 mixture of rim/disc bikes…. Guess which brakes are ALWAYS the noisiest…. RIM 😂

Thank you brotha!!! Truth.

Well setup rim brakes with Kool stop pads are a joy

Eh you don't need knew wheels, just new rims. Paying a shop $600 to replace your rims every 5 years is comparable to paying them $70 every 6 months to service your discs. It's just whatever you prefer.

Wow!!😮

You're not wearing out a rim anytime soon in those conditions. Others will use their brakes more in a week than you do in a year🙃

@@veganpotterthevegan Before I retired from racing, 5 years ago I would put in 8,000-9,000 miles a year (13,000+ km) I did that since the mid 1990's.

@Bill Kallas I rode between 14,000-18,000(had a couple 20k years) a year when I was racing and still rode a minimum of 10k a year when I switched to speed skating in 2010. Last year was the first year I didn't ride at least 10,000 a year since 2004. I'm a bigger rider at a 185lb race weight. But I still loved climbing so had to descend too. You wear rims out with that much riding with my size and terrain

@@veganpotterthevegan I weigh a little more than that, and still never wore a rim out. Riding in crappy weather will cause severe rim wear. I would rarely do any training when it was raining or snowing. I'd prefer grinding out the miles on a trainer. In Criteriums, you try not to use your brakes, and when you do, it's just to make slight adjustments to your speed in the corners.

I’ve had nothing but problems with rim brakes.

I tried rim brakes , it was just bad for me and have to get a disk brake for safety issues. Rim brakes power is just too weak for me

I've used rim brakes all my life, then tried hydraulic disc brakes. Brake feel is so much better that i am not going to go back to rim brakes, ever. But that's just me.

"Issue" here might mean just few meters of braking distance less. Simple fact, that what offered rim brakes was sufficient for you each time you needed them the most does not mean that it is superior to hydraulic brakes

Disc Brakes Are 2X As Powerful .....

That's exactly why I'm pondering bespoke builds more than ever before. Those frames are truly built by riders for riders.

I don't see what any of that has to do with debating the merits of rim versus disc brakes. Everything you describe applies equally to disc brakes.

in 50 years rim brake will be gone, the bike industry will never go back to rim. i cant even find v brakes for my old mtb anymore bec guess what, they stopped making them

​​@@JwallzMTBAll v-brakes are made the same (except mini-v-brakes with a shorter cantilever arm). But even Shimano still sells multiple models, and there is also Dia Compe and probably Tektro to choose from. They are definitely still produced, many bicycle brands still sell new bicycles with v-brakes.

Shimano still sells cantilevers. Also, I was in a bike store today and saw bikes with Vbrakes, so your statement is invalid.

Agree and definitely worth mentioning. Most rim brake frames will take a 25c tyre ok, but going above that to 28c for a lot of them is a no go, even on frames built relatively recently. Usually the problem is the lack of clearance at the chain stays. I’ve got 3 rim brake road bikes but I am going to be selling one of them shortly to buy a disc brake road bike as I want to run 30mm or maybe even 32mm tyres so that I can enjoy some extra comfort, and also take advantage of more grip and a shorter stopping distance due to more rubber being in contact with the road.

BS. I don't know why the industry pretends mid reach caliper brakes don't exist. Check out the Genesis equilibrium.

@@paddyotoole2058 Trek Domane even fits 38mm on a road bike. That is perfect for having two sets of wheels. One for gravel and one for road

For road who really need to use 32 mm like pogacar who have the watt for ???? there only Professional cyclist on RU-vid hahaha

​​@@-communication5636for road 28mm, 30mm and 32mm it's worth it mainly because roads are not always good and the other thing is that 28+mm tires are more comfy for large distances, thinking that 28 or 32 it's just for "pros" when those measurements are imo better than 25/23 for the normal rider it's just mind bogling to me

Me too. My MTB’s brakes are super sensitive.

That is because you would need very big calipers for those broad tyres.

​@@jedisentinel1499, does it make annoying noises?

@@freenational not that I can tell other than the pads squeezing the rotors

@@freenational Calipers suck above around 28mm wheels due to reducing mechanical advantage as the calipers get longer. For wider tires, cantilever, including v-brake style cantilever, are what are a valid alternative to disk brakes. As long as you have good pads, have aluminum rims and set them up properly they are pretty much as good as disk brakes. The one advantage disk brakes really have is that they are better at shedding heat.

its cringe when I see 13000 dollar bikes making 200 dollar bike noises

Yep. I hattttte it.

New carbon disc brake rims cracks, delaminate, pothole damage, etc, not longer life than rim brake rims

Agree. I'd go disc on a bike that spends a lot of time in the rain, not so much for braking power as wear on the rear rim.

I am 100kg, I ride in the rain, and cantilever brakes are as powerful as I would ever want.

Rather that than a weaker dished front wheel with a disc

I see that as a positive. Who doesn't like a wheel upgrade now and then?

disc brakes are a scam in plain sight. PRO will say nothing because they will lose their job. They get pampered left and right as long they spread propaganda of corporation.

I am also a rim brake rider I just do not see the need for disc brakes on a road bike. i would like to buy an E Bike, but will not pay a few thousand pounds for something I don't like.

rims is fine, i ride rim brake but the problem is i have a old 90's mtb that i cant find brakes for for because they dont make them and the industry will never go back to rim so now im having to switch up my entire quiver of bikes

It's true that with disc brakes you can still brake properly when you have a broken spoke, but the irony is that disc brakes make broken spokes more likely due to the fact (which Neill mentioned) that the braking force has to be transferred from the hub through the spokes to the tire. This (broken spoke) happened to me, and to a friend during a group ride, both were disc brake bikes. I never had a broken spoke with rim brakes

@@DominikLoeffler1 I had two pillar 1420 spikes go after about 15000 kms on a back disc wheel. The failures occured in the same spots, where the spots entered the rim hole as they were hidden nipple built. The drilled hole angle were too right angle caused a stress point something that could've been mitigated by drilling the holes asymmetrically. My other wheels are all conventionally laced with the nipple external .

@@DominikLoeffler1 me never have broken spokes with disk brakes but with rim brakes my whole wheel set need to change

@@user-nu5fx6en9h sure, but that is just anecdotal evidence that I added. It doesn't change the underlying physics. Of course a disc wheelset can be designed to not break spokes, but then you're still left with the disadvantage of higher weight as Neill explained

I think they're mostly a pain in the ass for you because you're not used to them. I come more from a mountainbike background so i'm considerably more used to disc brakes, when i had gotten into road biking a couple years ago nothing frustrated me more than rim brakes, whether it was the common maintenance needed with them or just the considerably worse braking performance in modulation and being in my opinion way more likely to lock up. I'm super happy that disc brakes have become a norm in the road biking industry because they last long, easier to maintain and you'll likely only have to worry about the oil 1-2 years down of usage. Yes disc brakes get out of alignment commonly when you take your wheel off but realigning it is just as easy as taking your wheel off. In my opinion there's too much stubbornness around people wanting to stick with rim brakes because they're simply too used to it and don't wanna move onto something new.

@Exphised nah, I have 5 bikes all born before 2000. The decisive factor IS wheel lock/ adhesion of tyre to road.

@@peterwillson1355 You're still more likely to lock up with rim brakes due to the lack of modulation, it is very noticeably different how much easier a rim brake locks up the wheel compared to a disc brake.

Agreed. Carbon rim delamination is a scary thought going downhill at 30mph

And carbon delamination is super rare and probably can be felt in the levers before a problem

Alloy rims and brake rubber pads are a match made in heaven, for some miraculous physics they even stop better in the wet

Trek Domane is a cool endurance bike!

dura ace is calling

Cope?

A lot of bike shops have tools to face the caliper mount. I wouldn't want anything to do with a bike shop that doesn't have a tool that's every shop should have had 15-20yrs ago. No reason for people to have one in their house, just as there's no reason for most people to have a truing stand.

@@veganpotterthevegan Here in my area every shop I’ve asked didn’t have one, but said “we can get one if we really need to”, so not everyone does, and tbh I’m not sure this tool did exist 15 years ago.

@GNX157 that specific tool didn't exist 15 yrs ago but you don't need that specific tool. I have a new chain whip but chain whips have been around for decades. There are handheld facing tools for every bolt size you can imagine until they're so big that you need a motor to face them. They don't need to be made specifically for bikes. But there have been facing tools made for disc brake bikes for at least 15yrs.

Yes good points Saad, thanks for adding to the thread...I think Neill was eager to get to the downsides though. haha. Cam

It's easy to make rim brakes and rim brake frames with larger clearances. The industry's marketing machine feels disc brakes are sexier.

if you use the right pads with the right rim surface you can get good braking performance and next to no rim wear. I have a set of corima wheels with corima pads and they brake really well and it took almost a year of riding to get any indication of wear whatsoever. I'm going to destroy the wheel on in a crash long before the rim wears out.

@@albr4 My friend's usd2k carbon rims brake explode and cause massive crash in peloton (weekend ride). Who gonna pay other's lost? Some YT with rim brake change to disc brake cause his expensive wheels start bulging! Get rid of the problem that can cause fatal accident!

Need less effort to pull hydraulic shifters (feel smooth).

BXP's are great. I've used a few sets myself. Kool Stop pads in my opinion are a bit better. Both better choices than stock Shimano pads.

Good pre-stretched cabling and compression less housing if you really need to make them snap.

Got both Bontrager and eeBrakes. Both are absolutely awesome.

The thing that i like about hydraulic brakes is the brake feel, which is just superior to mechanical brakes. Which is why i think mechanical disc brakes suck, better use rim brakes if you're going the mechanical route. If they can create rim brakes that has the same smooth brake feel of hydraulic brakes, then i might go back to rim brakes.

@@sepg5084 Mechanical discs are fine, they’re just really sensitive to the condition, quality and routing of the cable. If the cable is spot on, they’re pretty good.

Fully agree. At least, rim brakes are not an option to be taken away 🙂 I stocked up on calipers and some rims, too. Market may do what market does.

Nah my rim brakes always damage my wheelset and have to change my rim once a year… the cost was too much so I moved to disk brakes😁

@@user-nu5fx6en9h Are you riding on dirt roads? I've got campy tubular wheel sets from the 70's that still work. Not that I use them a lot on my vintage bikes but still.

@@BennoSattler I got a set of Zipp 303's last year in excellent condition for $250 bucks. I LOVE disk brakes :)

What's that trick?

Florian maybe he think about pushing pistons back. Maintaining disk brakes , pads, discs are quite simple. On yt are many great videos for learning

@@Scarab002 Remove the wheel and brake pads, and loosen the bleed port screw to relieve some pressure in the line. Push the pistons in, tighten the bleed port screw back up, replace the pads and wheel, and recenter the calipers if necessary. Before centering, it's helpful to use one of those pad spacer tools that go over the disc rotor to increase the space between the rotor and the pads. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hBdJYX8tICA.html

Very true, for safety reasons I go disk brakes 100%

This, plus I experience it to be easier to clean the bike after a ride in the rain. You do not have the dirt from the brakepads everywhere on your bike as you had with rimbrakes. I believe they will still become lighter in the future and also easier to adjust. The current Dura Ace is great in this respect, although not perfect, and at least one level above the previous Dura Ace. Also the current DA does not need maintenance for a long time after you have set it up correctly.

That shit never goes away.

Stupid is thinking an antique rim braking system is less complex than disc brakes

Yup. Toured and then raced on rim brakes in the '70's, Weinman and Campy side pull brakes which were nowhere near what rim calipers are like now. Even on many LONG descents (think Rockies, Sierras, San Gabriel and other mtns around LA) no overheating, never even thought of wanting better brakes (more gears, yes please). It was astonishing how much better modern rim brakes are, so it was perplexing to hear that disc brakes are "better". Eventually ended up with a rim brake (frame mount) 2017 Trek Emonda SLR6 for road and a disc brake (hydro) 2017 Trek Domane SLR6 for gravel, both with alloy rims. Rode them on alternate days. At least in the dry during typical on-road riding, I had to look down to see which brakes I had, could not feel any difference. As you say, a solution in search of a problem. On a trip to Mallorca, I was assigned an Emonda (not mine) that had a squealing/grabbing rear rim brake. Going over Col d'Honor/Col d'Orient, I opted to use just the front brake. Found with a bit of care I could manage the switchback descents at a good pace using just the one brake, so they have adequate braking power (at least for me = 75kg). That night, changing the rear pads & cleaning the rim with solvent cured the problem. On the other hand, on a rainy trip to South Carolina mountains, I had almost no braking with rim brakes on Lightweight carbon rims, even using their $$$$ brake pads. No brakes at all for several agonizing seconds, then slight deceleration. Lucky not to crash at a descent into a "T" junction. Went back to alloy rims. Except for Lightweight, alloys weigh nearly the same as carbon in anything but a deep dish rim . I switched to Shimano C40's: carbon-reinforced alloy, with alloy brake tracks.

Good one! I'm 70 and have moved over to disc brakes and tubeless. No debate they are better, but they are a little trickier to work on for us old farts. 🙂 Happy trails!

Bike mechanic here #1 mech disc brakes are easier to maintain than rim, bar none. No spring adjustments, no pad straightening etc and it’s easy as hell to see pad wear, just look to see how close the material is to the base. To adjust you loosen 2 bolts, squeeze tighten and you’re done. Nothing on your disc brakes requires lubricant anymore than your rim brakes, I use a dropper on pivot points for both types if they’re rusted bad. The pads are identical in cost at my shop to rim pads, they might be a dollar more but that’s it, there are high end rim pads just like there are high end disc pads. Rim brakes ruin an entire rim whereas disc brakes ruin an 18-30$ rotor that takes years of riding or a couple years of hard trail riding to seriously wear out. #2 Having to wait till spring is untrue, if water froze in your mechanical rim lines it’d be the same thing. If it was under -4 it could have stiffened up the mineral oil if they were hydraulic, in which case you would just need a DOT brake fluid bike, which is on any SRAM groupie, I know plenty of people that ride in freezing conditions. Pads are easy to replace too idk what the deal is, pop out a cotter pin or a screw, pry the pistons and install. Rim brakes you undo the cable, use a 5mm hex to remove the pads and then you pivot the pads, sounds just as hard or worse. #3 if you have a rim brake bike you need a rim brake wheel which are just as common as disc wheels in my experience and the cost difference is very small. You wouldn’t put a 29er on a 26 right? You’d just get the right wheel. #4 Disc brakes are better in every metric, it comes down to preference. SRAM brakes don’t lock up Shimanos or TRPs and allow for a lot of modulation. Some people prefer softer braking but as someone who regularly rides rim brakes on a track bike I would prefer disc all day. Hands fatigue less, you spend less time on the levers(more important for drop bars) and if you’ve ridden with them for more than 15 minutes you get acquainted with the brake reaction. There’s dual piston, quad piston, 160mm rotors, 180s, 200+ whatever you need for your riding preferences. Friends of mine ride muddy single track with hydraulic brakes and have no issues, I’ve rarely locked up a tire on accident and it’s always been the rear on a bike I’m not familiar with, they’re easy to control. I’ve locked my rim brakes up more than a couple times. Your crankset issue is unrelated but yeah there does need to be some standardization, for the most part bb tech is leveling out. 200mm crank arms are ridiculous for a mtb, road or gravel bike assuming that’s what it’s for. I’m 6’7 and I’m riding 175s on a frame size under my actual size so I think you just need a different bike lol. Hardly anyone has 200mm cranks, that’s pretty special. 48t, with nice gx cranks would run you 140 I think for cranks maybe 30-40 for an after market milled chain ring if you want to stay cheap from race face, install would be 30 and that includes finding all the parts for you so idk how you’re hitting $500

@@dirtyred2000 200mm is normal for a 38in inseam. Everyplace I've found wants about $600 for a complete crankset. Zinn for example and other custom mfrs. 1. No, I never had to adjust a spring or pad with rim brakes. It's not easy to see pads. They are a 2 centimeters or so down inside a narrow crevice where everything is black. The disc brakes I have are cable adjusted, not by squeezing pads. Where I live, pads are $30 and rim brakes are $8. No, that's BS, rim pads don't destroy wheels. So, I am hearing propaganda now. I am not worried about the disc wearing out, I am saying it is an extra unnecessary expense and component and it creates unbalanced forces on a wheel. It is also dumb from a physics view because it is far easier to stop a wheel using friction on the rim than near the center of a wheel. I am saying they offer no advantage. The bicycle industry has been taken over by weirdos. 2 discs and 2 calipers certainly cost a lot more than 2 squares of rubber. Probably adds $100 to the cost of a bicycle. The pad dust is probably toxic too and discs make it more of a PITA to remove and insert wheels. And more difficult to see when a wheel is centered in the forks. 2. I could not use my bike at all last winter because I don't have heated storage, and the rear disc brake froze in the closed position. In the spring, it worked again. Something froze in it but I didn't have time or a place to analyze it well. I don't like messing around with metal in 0F. I would not have that kind of problem with rim brakes. Rim brakes are far easier to replace. Your views are skewed if you work on them all day. The average person doesn't need to investigate anything to change rim brakes. And they are easily visible. Nobody ever complained about rim brakes except for the freaks of the bicycle industry. In 50 years of riding bicycles, I never said: gee, I wish i had disc brakes. I always thought cantilever brakes were fine. Simple. We used to call them center pull in the early 80s. 3. I don't agree that rim wheels are easy to find. Not locally. And they are not interchangeable with disc wheels. Basically, disc brakes locks you into a bike that is made for disc brakes only. The entire bicycle has to be designed around disc brakes. It's not like they are an option. 4. I'm 6'3, 38in inseam. 200mm is my perfect size, 175 is too small and forces the too high seat to be 1in higher. I am not interested in a bicycle for sport. I need to ride all terrains, all weather, and all distances, even 120mi/day. I don't like bad ergonomics. If you can get me a 200mm crankset with a replaceable chainring with a guard, in the 40t size, for $200 or whatever, I'll buy one from you. I meant 40t, not 48t. Sorry. I have a 36t, and uphill is too easy and downhill has no gearing.

Haha 200mm is absurd unless you're either in the top 100 tallest people in the world, or else have some growth defect or deformity that makes you have a VERY weird proportion of leg bones. In any case, no one is going to mass market that, you need custom, just like someone missing a limb needs a custom prosthetic. (As for the disc brake stuff, all the stuff you're saying is nonsense 😂 and feel free to keep using rim brakes if you want while the rest of us move on)

@@galenkehler no, you are nonsense. Go use a crank arm calculator if you don't believe me, or see Zinn bicycles.

Switched from rim brakes to discs some time ago after riding for thousands of miles and wearing the fuck out of my old bike’s rims to the point where only the back brake barely worked in the rain. In all honesty I’m not going to replace the things that make the bike move because of the thing that’s supposed to stop them. My vision is 20/16 (better than 20/20, i can see whet a normal person needs 16 feet for in 20) so seeing the wear on the disc pads is no problem. just go on craigslist and get a bike there, my first bike with discs was a state 6061 that the original owner invested ~$1800 in - including a replacement to the bad brakes the bike is known for, which i got for $442 on craigslist. low costs and high quality is used stuff bro

Yeah I got rained on last week at night and was going to ride the rim brake bike but glad I took the disc.

Built my cheap Chinese ti bike with cable pulled disc brakes just for the rainy season. It's been awesome riding in the rain.

🤘👍👍👍

Yes

@@markclements1509 “so much heavier” 🤣 Say… wouldn’t the addition of a few more grams make you a stronger rider?

Rim brakes have no reason to be replaced....other than disc brakes need a lot of totally new bikes....lots of sales for the industry. standing against the wall at Starbucks, you can see, right off, when someone has a "modern" bike.. What a scam! Hopefully they'll get wise and keep offering a rim brake..Like press-fit BBs, sometimes the new stuff is not good for the riders and they learn to avoid it...

@@dhanso928 I just don’t get it. Disc brakes offer plenty of concrete advantages, no reason to shit on someone just because they prefer that. The extra stopping power and performance in the wet can’t be denied - and the tiny amount of weight added is very overhyped. There’s a reason disc brakes are now the preference in many race bikes.

@@Ferrichrome Not dissing anyone... However, discs aren't "preferred" by pros, they are riding them because their contracts require them to. They're probably not allowed to say anything, but a few seem to have defied team orders and let slip their opinions about that...The bike sponsors pay big bucks to have teams ride what they want to sell....The teams make big money riding whatever gives them the biggest deal....as long as it's not losing them races. If you want to talk wet...The limit to shortest braking is tire traction..a sliding tire doesn't care whether it's disc or rim...But hey, if it's what is being said, over and over and over again by all the shills...Discs are better..(for the sellers, for sure)

@@dhanso928 to each their own. In my experience, my rim brakes don’t work if my bike has been sitting in the rain for some time - I have to “test” them several times before they start to get grip on the wet rim. I just dislike when someone states their own opinion as if it’s fact, when there legitimate reasons to go either way🤷‍♂️ And sure, you can try and turn everything into a conspiracy… yes, these companies exist to make money, of course that’s true. And I’m sure that’s part of the reason. But many people say they will never go back to rim brakes after trying disc. The easier stopping power makes the brakes more usable for more types of riders, as stated by the video.

@@Ferrichrome True. I hope the rim brakes aren't removed from the industry though, but they probably will be because they work fine and are less profitable for the industry.

just find a rim brake frame that can take wider tyres, they're out there.

@@blahqweVery limited choice though. And also you will likely have to use deep drop / long caliper brakes, which are not going to be as powerful.

Tja! Är också bosatt i Stockholm och väger 98kg. Pendlar mellan rim eller disc. Ska köra min första lvg cykel nämligen. Är du fortfarande för rim idag?

Exactly

Eh, most disc brakes use interchangeable parts and all use the same type of mounts (flat or post). You can even use the same disc brake fluid between brands. Imo it’s not that hard to maintain, especially with mechanical discs. Note - I currently use rim brakes too, and if that’s your preference, more power to you! But there’s plenty out there, myself included, who have had no issue with disc brakes.

Get a different opinion. Most friends around me are changing to disc brakes from rim brakes. If you are buying a mid -high end bike, I strongly suggest disc brake also for better resale value. Most of the latest bike in the market are all disc brakes, you will not have good resale value for rim brakes bike because more and more higher end bike owners have disc brake components , wheels and unlikely they get a rim brake bike. Personally I own a rim brake felt F4 and a disc brake Trek Madone.

Recently built one for cheap. They are awesome! I am convinced that it's the best of both worlds. Easy maintenance/installation and cheaper. The braking power is very good.

@@bonbonflippers4298 which did you use? I’m considering Growtac Equal’s

@@thedownunderverse Juin tech F1. Been riding it in the rain all season. Very strong. Easy setup and been hassle free

Just the feeling is not even close to hydraulic or rim brake feeling. The point of disc brake is hydraulic and the feel.

Can you see the markings on your slide rule under incandescent light?

@@svgs650r Well, if my slide rule was cheaper, lighter, and when tuned properly stopped a bicycle better then I would use it forever too. 👍

@@theatomic430 but of course none of that is true

@@svgs650r Really? Rim brakes are more expensive than disc brakes? Do tell!

@@theatomic430 you can spend a little or quite in lot on either, you do realize that right?

We were all fine until they began promoting wider tires as being just as fast or even faster and more comfortable than 23 & 25. One of the draws of the new technology is the clean look of the bikes with disc brakes and electronic shifting as the the cables only appear as they feed out of the stays and fork into the brakes. Very pleasing to the eye but not to the eyes of the mechanics that have work on them from what I understand. Since I don’t own a bike with the latest disc brake and electronic shifting I wonder how much more are the labor costs to have work done on them.

@timdixo yes. really important to mention, as this is also for me the biggest pro disc brakes

Cantis do and modern cantis are excellent. I have yet to hear a good reason why they're not more popular.

No is not you havre asymetric front and rear wheel

I ride rim brake, and this advantage is a double edge sword, as if you ride on a lot of wet roads, you get shit on your rim, and it will get scratched and wear out over time. Some would see this as an advantage as they will then need to buy a new wheel, others will not like the expense of the upgrade 🙂

Good point, thanks for adding to the thread

Why do you need to swap wheels when you could just buy two different bikes instead? Isn’t that so much less troublesome instead?

@@slowcyclist4324 I assume you're being sarcastic

Agree w you, my hydro Shimano SLX on a hardtail have 2,000 miles, got them flushed at my LBS, had a few pad sets, no problems. If they squeal clean the disc with alcohol, then pull the pads out and clean them.

So your mountain bike has the same tire width as your road bike? If not, you are comparing apples to oranges. Not even close to the same thing. Also, 105 brakes are soft. The caliper arms are cast aluminum, not forged as R8000 or R9100 are. Big difference. Also, ditch the stock shimano brake shoes in favor of some Swiss Stop shoes for Alloy rim tracks.

I learnt from my mechanic that some disc brake rub (that quiet steam engine sound you sometimes get), can sometimes be solved by simply making sure your thru-axles are torqued to spec properly. I was having massive brake rub issues, and it turns out the contributor was an under-torqued axle. Once I started tightening them to spec, the problem seemed to go away. Disc brake rub for me now doesn't generally last for more than 5-10 seconds after a long descent or extreme braking situation

Oh they warp . They get to around 200-300 degrees c with heavy braking or with constant rubbing . Enough to make the steel rotor malleable. Add that to a caliper miss aligned or a sticky piston (very common) you end up with lovely wavy discs that do not heat up symmetrically only making the issue worse . Then if not changed uneven pad wear and possible caliper damage . Not so much of an issue with mtbs as they use wider clearance between pad and rotor

​@@edmundscycles1mtb rotors are also bigger so they have way more thermal mass and surface area.