Fiido D2 Original Battery Details & Double Battery MOD 

The battery is no more. Where to i find yhe same pouch u used?

Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

I'm glad that you have found my video useful, great to know that you did the upgrade! Now you can enjoy longer range.

Thank you for the appreciation!

Thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful!

How many times did you charge it? And is it really that bad? Iam planning on buying one from a guy that has it over a year now..

My D2 has 4000km the original battery still has 7200mAh from the original 7800mAh.

So nice of you

I'm glad that you found it useful! Thanks for watching.

That is a great idea! Sadly I'm not into 3D printing (for now) si my knowledge is limited.

TechTronic9000 believe me when I say, is way easier than you'd think. I was nervous about it too initally too 🍻🍻

Be sure to watch some videos on this before you buy a 3D printer. Videos like this one can be helpful. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LvGKfevdf_Q.html There are also a number of user developed upgrades that users have developed themselves for various printers...many of the upgrades can even be made by the user on the printer to be upgraded!! Some printers have a more develped user base than others as well...which can make a big diff in solving problems.

How well do 3D plastics hold-up to UV from the sun? Also, wouldn't it take a LOT of spools of plastic filament to make a strong-enough battery case?

PA12 HP 3d printed nylon should be UV resistant.

Glad you liked it!

Thanks!

Bonsoir jbai pas trop compris c’est pour gagner en autonomie ? Puissance?

With two batteries you get better autonomy.

@@TechTronic9000 Thank you, there's a system to unbug to gain speed? Fiido ds2

Only if you change the controller and that will increase the speed to around 29-31km/h when the battery is full.

Thank you!!!

If the new battery ** truly** has bigger capacity then your range will be bigger.

Thanks for watching!

I'm glad that you have found my video useful. Thanks for watching.

Glad it helped

Hello. 1) Yes, 2) yes indeed, a real fiddle sometimes to take it of, needs patience and and a good tool.

Yes you can use all of them together, just be sure to have the same voltage when you connect them

Use a good bag and maybe some extra wrapping of the battery. Water might get in and damage it. You might also find a hardened battery case for the bike frame to give it some extra protection.

Only if you instal it on the outside with another connector

The upper screws might be too long and will hit the battery, remove them and see if it comes out.

You can put only same voltage, but capacity can be different, the bigger it is the more range you will get.

Video for the alarm is coming soon ;) Also some new upgrades!

The disabling Fiido L2 speed alarm guide video is here (thank you, TechTronic9000!): tinyurl.com/u6lu8mp

Now only looking forward to TechTronic9000's Fiido L2 true speed unlock instruction video. :-) :-) :-) See the video "It's done! No more limit on the L2!" by TechTronic9000 (Thank you!): tinyurl.com/wm22z7r

Thanks for watching! 1) If you go downhill there is no limit the bike will free roll, got 50km/h on my D2 2) There is no such thing as speed unlock on D1,D2,D3, L2 because they are limited by the battery voltage and motor. All you see on youtube are fake videos with bikes going downhill, just to get views.

Thanks for watching!

Yes it's possible.

My DIY battery is a 10S2P with 3000mAh Samsung SDI cells so a total of 6Ah/36V, it's compact, light and almost doubles the bike range.

It has a BMS and it's safe, my bike has 3000km already with zero issues and lots of charges!

For the video I have used my Xiaomi Mi 8 phone, it works really nice in 4K

TechTronic9000 Wow, you didn’t attach any external mic on it?

Nope, it's the standard phone mic, i don't understand why so many people say that the Mi8 has "bad sound" :) Most recent videos are made with this phone, including outdoor reviews and it works great.

There is no such thing as speed unlock on D1,D2,D3, L2 because they are limited by the battery voltage and motor. All you see on youtube are fake videos with bikes going downhill, just to get views.

It's possible to add a rear rack, check it here: facebook.com/groups/FiidoElectricBike/permalink/3202797169742151/

No

My battery from the video is a DIY one, made with SAMSUNG 3000mAh high discharge cells and a big 45A BMS.

A Lithium battery can loose up to 50% capacity when the temperature drops 20°C.

You should get around 20km on electric mode, mine has 4000km and the original battery is still very good.

No, both need to be the same rated voltage, also this bike is 36V!

Yes it is possible with another controller and another battery, but then you have a chance of burning up the motor.

Yes you can get the original one for the D1 from here: bit.ly/3jBAMF9

Sadly I see the stock original battery price went up to 300$, it was under 200$ not a long time ago. I would personally measure it and search on aliexpress for a similar one, then ask the seller for exact dimensions.

You can disconnect the plug

Because it's easy and you have a hole in the frame already. Why drill the frame and connect to the existing battery and complicate things?

Hard to diagnose just from the issue above. Could be a short circuit, burned BMS, etc. Join on the group here and add some pictures and we will try to sort it out: facebook.com/groups/FiidoElectricBike/

If the DC jack has failed then you need to buy a new one and replace it. I doubt that you will find one that 100% match so you need to use some soldering and have some knowledge about electrics / electronics.

Yes it will

You can use any kind of external battery as long as they have the same voltage.

Not really as there is no seal.

No problems until now and has several thousands OK km done. A big advantage is that the second battery has a common wire BMS thus discharge and charge works on the same port.

@@TechTronic9000 thank you very much for the quick reply I subscribed..

@@lezmac3104 Thank you! I highly appreciate it.

Both batteries are fully charged and then connected in parallel with plugs, then you just use the bike like it has one single bigger battery, you also charge it as usual, so basically you don't ever need to disconnect the batteries.

@@TechTronic9000 Thanks for your reply! Both batteries are fully charged. So when I connect, the batteries they should be switched on? They have a on/off switch. Sorry for bothering you

There is no on/off they have XT60 plugs

Fiido doesn't use branded cells so they might be anything out of china. Still they work pretty well as on my D2 i have over 4000km and from the official 7800mAh I still have ~ 7300mAh.

@@TechTronic9000 Cheers for the follow up on this. Much appreciated.

I've bought mine from a local bike store, you can also find the same model here: bit.ly/39rN4vD

For capacity there is no limit, the bigger it is the longer the run time will be. It's important just to keep the same voltage.

TechTronic9000 thanks! Do you think the controller and the motor will sustain a 48V battery?

The controller no, the motor might be ok.

Yes it's the same procedure.

If you want a more powerful one then you need one with a dedicated battery as the controller has low current output and you will burn it with a more powerful light.

Yes, there are a lot of better options to fix the battery, some are suggesting 3D printing a hard case that will clamp on the frame. This was mostly for demonstrating the whole process.

@@TechTronic9000 how is the setup going for you now, has it been good and what range are you getting?

I will do a video when I will replace the tire, it's fairly easy, similar with a normal bike, just unzip the ties that hold the motor wire. No need to disconnect it as there is sufficient slack to work on the tire next to the bike.

Some batteries such as the one from the L2 has a fuse, others don't. Usually the safety is based on the BMS module of the battery that also provides short circuit protection. You can also add your own inline fuse for more safety.

@@TechTronic9000 thanks a lot for getting back! Very informative!Keep doing what you doing !🙏

There is not enough room to fit a longer battery.

Yes, your can remove it and replace it. You can also make it removable, join here for more info: facebook.com/groups/FiidoElectricBike

Did it touch the charge port or the charger cable? You should check with a multi meter if the charger is OK.

Depends on how much the 2nd battery needs to be, for a another 8Ah you will get double the range. Then weight comes into the equation, as maybe you don't need so much range that you end up crying a large battery all the time.

I don't think it will fit.

The switch method is even more dangerous.

@@TechTronic9000 how about creating a plug and play method by manually connecting 2nd battery via xt60 when 1st battery has discharged during a ride?

It's not needed as long as the 2nd battery has a common wire BMS, this means that charge / discharge port is the same so it shares the same voltage with the other battery and they are always balanced between them. I have extensively used this system in several of my ebikes and it always performed as expected.

You need to test the battery with a voltage meter, the BMS might have some protection, or could have burned out.

@@TechTronic9000 I have successfully installed the add on battery! the BMS did a good job and there is no damage to the batteries. thank you again

Yes you can

Usually overvolting the motor works, but you need to check the temperature, also if you increase the voltage try to keep amps low and not put to much power into it.

Hi if i put new controler whit lcd on my fiido d2s do i make my bike faster? Thanks

The bigger the capacity is the more mileage you will get, you just need to find balance between weight / size and the needed daily range.

Could be several things such as faulty battery, controller problems or more simple ones such as lose plugs and wires.

Hello, it's not possible to do easy. The single way to increase speed for the D2s is first to change the controller + display, this will give you a ~29km/h top speed only when the battery is 100% full. Then if you want to go even faster you need to charge the battery to a 48V, a controller for 48V, display for 48V. The original motor might work on 48V but will wear out faster. So you will probably end up also doing a motor upgrade. It's easier and better to sell it and get something faster such as a ADO A20, that unlocks from settings and does up to 35km/h.

Without removing it? Probably the only easy method would be to obtain a battery analyzer. You charge the battery pack and then use the analyzer to measure the Ah while it is discharged by the analyzer. However, keep in mind that if you don't even want to open up the battery compartment, you will then have to come up with some sort of mating adapter to connect the analyzer to the battery connector exposed when you "fold" the bike. Otherwise, you could simply "clip" the analyzer onto the backs of the power connectors on the battery compartment's connector plate. But, if you're at this point then you may as well read the label. However, an analyzer will allow you to measure the ACTUAL capacity of the battery. The company labels are often overly "generous" when specifying battery capacity. The measured capacity is often lower than the specified/rated capacity. E.G., a "reasonably" decent 10.5Ah battery pack might MEASURE 9.5Ah. The difference depends on the quality of the cells in the pack, and whether the pack has been used a few times. Measuring the capacity of a new, unused pack generally measures a bit lower than the final capacity after the battery has been through a few charge/discharge cycles. Also , the higher the quality of the cells in the pack, generally the closer the measured capacity will be to the specified capacity. Low quality cells can deliver less than 70% (or lower) of the specified capacity. Decent cells will be closer to the specified capacity. 90% or higher is "reasonable". Here's an example of an analyzer that costs about US$40. It's not laboratory grade accurate but this type is generally good enough for hobbyist work. This analyzer can also measure at current discharge levels NEARER to that of a typical small e-bike and will show you what you can expect in reality. Lower watt capacity analyzers will give you an artifically high capacity measurement for your real-life e-bike assessment, as they can't load the battery as much as a high wattage analyzer. But, the high capacity analyzers offer the flexibility of measuring either for the specified capacity or can be used to measure nearer what you get in the real-life implementation capacity. Generally, the higher the test load on the battery pack, the lower the measured capacity. E.G. testing a battery at 100mA will measure considerably more Ah capacity in the battery and will be closer to the specified capacity of the battery pack, than if you test the same battery at 2000mA or 4000mA (0.1A x 42V = 4.2W, but 4.2A x 42V = 176W). ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8TEtt2IFCVc.html There are other analyzers that can test a high capacity battery.

Just with a capacity/discharge meter, still a bit complicated.

@@TechTronic9000 Hiya..great video..I would like to build my own battery..did you use a 'kit' or just buy the separate batteries, etc... thanks Gerry

It's a kind of bullet connector. you might replace them as they do not provide a very good contact.

@@TechTronic9000 thank you very much Sir!!!

Entrambe le batterie sono 36V. Quello interno ha una capacità di 7,8 Ah, mentre quello esterno ha 6 Ah. Perché sono in parallelo, la loro capacità si somma. Non collegarli in serie in quanto ciò brucerà la bici!

I think I damaged my bike by put connection negative to positive I think that’s the problem

What should I do?

If you have installed the battery with reversed polarity you might have burnt out the controller.

Try this one: bit.ly/3eKbEds

With the original one I was getting 20-25km range, with the extra one I now get ~35km range. Acceleration has also improved a bit as there is a lower voltage drop.

Fully charge both, the "key one" should be turned on and then never turned off while connected to the other.

@@TechTronic9000 Can you turn it off while the bike is off? For theft prevention purposes

That might be a dangerous short circuit from a faulty wire. I would check that ASAP

I don't know what battery the HIMO has, the old QiCycle had a smart battery and it was too complicated to do this mod.

You can now get the updated original replacement which has better quality that the one i had in my dead link: bit.ly/3MVj5QO

@@TechTronic9000 Thank you! Do you know where it ships from?

They have multiple warehousing, if you are from the EU it will come as an EU product. If they don't have it in local shop, they will send it from China to their warehouse firstly, then they will repack and ship it from EU to you.

You can get the original charger from here: bit.ly/2YfqkOp

Check description of the video, i have some trustful sellers there. Also if you are from Europe I might be able to find you even more better deals and some discount coupons. Also you can join here for more info, videos, deals, reviews etc: facebook.com/groups/FiidoElectricBike/

TechTronic9000 hello thank you for reply, I’m from the uk and that would be great if you could let me know some sites, thank you

@@TechTronic9000 Hey man, I'm just wondering if you have any discount codes for a D4S? I joined the FB group but I can't seem to find any. Thanks :)

Hello, I've just added on the group a new coupon for the d4s ;)

Link is in the video description

With the original battery (7.8Ah) I was doing ~ 20km on 100% electric, with the extra battery (6Ah) i can do 30-35km. If you install a larger battery you can get even more range.

@@TechTronic9000 Thanks prietene ;)

Fiido D1, D2, L2, all of these bikes are using planetary geared motors which spin very fast and have a reduction gear inside thus providing very good torque. the downside of such kind of motor is that is very limited in providing speed, for instance the ratio is ~ 4.5 to 1 so the motor is spinning 4.5 times per each wheel revolution. So all thees bikes are physically limited by the top voltage of the battery and the designed motor speed (KV - turns per volt), thus ~ 25km/h is the speed that the motor will be able to run under load at full battery voltage. If you don't trust this then you can check my controller swap video in which i replace a stock Fiido "350W" limited speed controller with a 1200W one capable of unlimited speed (99km/h) and the result is exactly ~ 25km/h.

The frame is too small, you can just replace the current "2600mAh" cells with something like 3500mAh LG MJ1 and will have a jump in capacity from 7800mAh to 10500mAh

As long as the voltage is the same - 36V nominal, you can use a battery as large as you can. As bigger the capacity is the more range you will have.

What type of plug does this have, i dont see a xt60 connector. m.aliexpress.com/item/4000341347054.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail

It's a "Deans" or "T" or "Deans T".

@@TechTronic9000 is it safe to plug second batery to main batery, not the controler??

Yes, no problem.

@@TechTronic9000 🙏🙏🙏💪

Can I let the power on the second while driving or do you have to plug it in once the first battery is empty?

Suzhou Xiongda Motor (high-speed geared brushless).

I don't have a M1 to work on, but the process is similar with the one I did for the xt750, you can check that video also.

The charge port is a DC Jack while the discharge has small bullet connectors and it's solders to the folding contacts.

@@TechTronic9000Can the original battery be replaced with a different battery?

Yes, but only if you build a custom one with high quality cells you get an increase. The maximum capacity you can fit is 10.5Ah with LG MJ1 cells @ 3500mAh each.