Learn expert tips on using epoxy to hide imperfections in wood and stabilize the piece from further movement issues. For more information on working with live-edge tops: bit.ly/LiveEdgeTops
Excellent video. No overpowering music.. clear instruction... not rushed.. good supporting visuals...straight to the point. I'll watch more of yours for sure.
BRILLIANT video! The way you explain the reasoning behind why and how you do things is priceless, such as filling just the big, deep end first instead to let the air escape instead of pouring across the whole crack as I have seen in so many other videos. (....all of them, actually. Absolutely the best video out there fir this topic. New fan and subscriber!
Thanks for the information. Great video. I’m wondering what the thickest pour I can feel at one time is worth that same epoxy. I have a 3 inch crack on the end of the table to fill.
This is useful and informative. Ignore the know it alls who deliver their unsolicited opinions without class. One should should not expect every tutorial to cover every single scenario. Great job adding value to the community.
Awesome vid! Thanks! I was wondering - do you have any suggestions for filling small cracks in a FINISHED table? The table is fairly new, but it came with some natural cracks (pottery barn landon dining table). I have a bunch of kids and would love to not have to toothpick out those cracks every day. What would you recommend? Thank you!!!
I've got a 200 year old table with legs that have been split all the way down and it's about 1/4" wide and maybe a lil deeper, would this be a good way to restore and stabilize them?
Yes, you can epoxy through cracks. Use tape to seal up the bottom side (and end) to hold the epoxy in place. Adding a bowtie is a little subjective. Even a small crack can continue to expand (which is really what the bowtie is about), so even a half-inch crack is bowtie-worthy. Ultimately it's an aesthetic decision.
Thanks for the video! Curious what you would do if you couldn't flip the wood to work with the underside facing up. I have a client with a massive (they estimate 800lb) chamcha wood table and I will be fixing cracks on site from above.
@@cedriclaroche253 It went alright. I recommend using a good tape to seal cracks on underside of surface. I think my biggest mistake was to try to fill deep cracks in 2 pours. I couldn't get all of the bubbles to go away at the surface, despite a very hot heat gun focused right on them. If I could do it again, I'd keep the last pour no greater that 1/4" in depth to control the bubbles better and hopefully finish with a cleaner surface. There's a ton of advice out there re: bubbles in epoxy. I still haven't cracked it. If all goes awry, I know that people cut out the top layer of the fill once it's dried and try again...nice if you have the luxury of time. Good luck!
Hey so im making a desk, I have 2x2 steel 11gauge squared tubes. My inner dimensions are 68" by 32" by 2". I'll have 3/4 inch thick wood at base. I have been looking at west system 105 and 207. I'm trying to figure out the amount of epoxy I will need to fill the area. And if there are better epoxy. I want to do atleast an inch pour at my last poor and still be able to see to the base wood as it is purple heart and blood wood. I also have ideas of designs in it. Any pointers or recommendations?
Hey bro, if you haven`t already proceeded on your project, it sounds like you just need to do a little math and figure out the volume you want to fill and do the conversions to decide on how how many litres of epoxy to mix. sounds like it will be an expensive pour. I just used the 105 and 206 hardner and it was pretty easy to use. good luck. sounds like a cool build
I'd recommend doing kind of what he did, but tape over all except the last inch, then build a sort of reservoir that goes up past the top of the crack and wider than the top as a filling point. then the rest can be knocked/cut off and then sanded.
Depending on the epoxy used, the cure time can be overnight. Read the instructions on the back of the can(s). Once cured, the tape can be removed, but it's not advisable to remove much before.
I would test it with the epoxy first. There may be a chemical reaction that could cause the tape to fail, and you don't want that happening while working on your actual project.
I would venture to say that this doesn't work for the simple reason that many checks and cracks do not migrate evenly from one side to the other. I would also wager that this is why we do not see the finished product.......fail.
TheNick508 hahaha! brutal. the guy isnt a television "personality"! he's probably nervous and attempted to shoot this in one take without stumbling or forgetting, which is crazy! but thats why he seams unnatural. I guarantee he's not a fan of his performance either. But hey, no one watches a Jackie Chan movie to see his stellar acting chops!
