How to Mix and Pour Epoxy - Easy tips and tricks to keep you out of trouble when using epoxy. 

Thanks, I appreciate it!

I’m glad you like them! My goal from the start was to keep these on the point and not about hearing myself talk. I appreciate it.

Thank you very much! I’m glad they helped ya!

Thank you very much! I’m glad they helped 👍🏻👍🏻

I’m glad they helped! Feel free to get ahold of me if you have any other questions. Happy to help 👍🏻

Thank you! Hope you enjoyed it 👍🏻

Thank you! Glad you liked the video 👍🏻

Yes, it’s just clear silicone. You can also use a hot glue gun if you are in a bind for time. Yes, scrape everything off you can then sand. If you have the time, a couple quick coats of poly where you are going to put the silicone/hot glue will save a bunch of time when you’re ready to sand/remove. Cheers 🍻

Yes, I use a torch to pop the bubbles after the pour.

No it won’t. The little bit of solvent that soaks in sands off very easily. No worries man and good luck ! 👍🏻

Thank you sir, I appreciate that! I use CA glue religiously to prep those exact things before pours. I’ve never had an issue with it. In fact I would use it on any small crack, bug hole, or other imperfection to help eliminate small voids. That’s where you will fight air bubbles and it’s a tough battle to win. As far as the heat gun and scraper to remove excess I guess I’m not sure I’ve ever heard of or seen that process? Once this stuff starts to cure it’s pretty much game over as far as removing excess. I babysit the pours for a few hours afterwards and wipe drips from edges and add more where needed but have never needed to remove excess epoxy. So I won’t be much help there. I do use a propane torch to pop air bubbles after I pour and spread the epoxy, but that’s all I use it for. Somethings to keep in mind: Temp/Humidity control are crucial for correct curing. Min 72 hours of controlled environment. Make sure you do a seal coat before any pour on raw wood. My rule of thumb for seal coats is 1oz per square foot. It’s just enough to seal things up before you start doing pours. It eliminates air bubbles, and will also catch any small voids you may have missed with the CA glue. For top coating: I use 1.5-2oz per square foot for each pour. Then I bump it up to 3oz per square foot on my final flood coat. These are just my preferences and doesn’t make them gospel, but I’ve had very good luck with these amounts. Feel free to reach out anytime if you get in a bind or have questions!

@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Awesome, thanks so much for all the info, and the quick reply. I have have no doubt that watching your videos is going to improve my success on this maiden voyage.😊

@@mburke1211 anytime man! Good luck and don’t panic lol.

Sorry for one more message, but here’s a link to the process I was mentioning about heat gun/scraping: ru-vid.comPTL8CMRwJEU?feature=share. Just trying to save sanding time!

@@mburke1211 ok this makes more sense now that I see it. I thought you meant trying to do this on the final top coat and it had me scratching my head lol. Yeah, I can see how this would be helpful on very tiny areas. What I have done in the past with situations like that is fill them with my colored epoxy and leave them a little under filled. Then bring up the rest of it with clear CA glue then use a chisel to remove the excess. Keep in mind also that epoxy soaks into the wood deeper than you’d think. Colored/non colored epoxy will stain raw wood with what ever color is in it. So what I will do if I’m only filling a crack in or something like that is put a couple of coats of poly on the face of the material around the area a day prior to pouring. The poly acts and a sacrificial barrier and that way the epoxy doesn’t seep down into the wood around the void. If that makes sense? If you don’t, you will have a discolored ring left behind that almost no amount of sanding will remove. Learned that one the hard way. Just be sure to sand all of the poly off as well so that what ever finish you put on it will have even coverage and virgin material to adhere to.

Plane the excess epoxy off of that’s an option or sand it off starting at 60 grit working up to 220. Then depending on the finish you use, follow those recommended steps. Keep in mind the epoxy will sand like concrete compared to the wood. Be aware of that so you don’t create a bunch of low rings around the filled areas. Hope this helps!

I prefer to use Rubio Monocoat over the epoxy but almost and finish can be applied over the epoxy once it’s cured.

There’s not much you can do to prevent unseen voids. I always figure and extra 20% of epoxy to be safe because of the unknowns. It’s a cruel game lol! As far as top coat it depends on what it’ll be used for. High traffic, dinner table I wouldn’t use an epoxy. Rubio monocoat is my go to. An occasional side table or the like you maybe able to use poly of some sort.

@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 this will be a kitchen island. It’s a minwax helmsman spar urethane. It’s supposed to be good for countertops and even outdoor stuff. Was hoping that would suffice. And thanks to the quick response!

I would see what the epoxy manufacturer recommends as far as the window the re pour. Most are either full cure, or just as the epoxy starts to set up. Personally I would wait for full cure in this scenario. Just to make sure the leak is sealed back up. Side note, try not to use tape as a backer unless the void is 3/16” or less wide. Tape will let you down almost everytime and leak. Try to use some 1/4” plywood with tape on the surface and silicone to seal it up. I’ve had good luck that way 👍🏻

@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Thank you for this tip. Yes the tape was a fail and it all ended up on the floor. Very disappointed. It looked great at first, then over a few hours, it found a way through. Wish I had talked to you sooner. Oh well, live and learn I suppose. I will wait till full cure and reseal using plywood like you said.

@@joncrandon8896 anytime man! Hope it works out this round for ya !