Finger Pain (D.I.P joint) in Climbing!

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Check the video for a comprehensive chat with GRSM Physiotherapist @jaysmithpt about why pain occurs at our DIP joints, and what we can do about it!
1️⃣Manage acute and cumulative loads in the 1/2 crimp position
2️⃣ Warm-up the joints by progressively increasing load in the 1/2 crimp position on small holds. See @c4hp for more info on using recruitment pulls
3️⃣ Hangboard! Consider Eva Lopez-Rivera's minimum edge protocol as outlined at Eric Horsts' @training4climbing
Website training for climbing.com
4️⃣ Consider taping and open hand climbing to help reduce the load short term.
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#fingerpain #fingerjoint #rockclimbinglife

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Опубликовано:

4 мар 2022

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Комментарии : 15

@kaxior 2 года назад

I wish I've seen this before! DIP issues seems like an obvious issue for beginners, yet, so little information about it!

@aneliz15 4 месяца назад

Thanks for this! Very helpful. I used to climb in college and have recently start Brazilian jiu jitsu. The DIP pain is real and I knew my climbers would understand.

@samirfarah640 Год назад

Woow such an amazing video very well detailed thanks

@matakos22 Год назад

Thanks so much for this video, felt like you were talking to me personally

@librapower7810 Год назад

Thanks for the video , this is what I've been trying to describe to my climbing friends, it's not an a4 pulley and the pain is on the last joint of my ring finger. I've been climbing 6 years and never had any issues this year I have been hammering training, started finger boarding etc... appears not enough adaptive time like you say

@thewateringwiz7118 11 месяцев назад

Thanks for the video, it was super helpful !

@Latinokidd10 2 месяца назад

Hey really appreciate your video! would you be open for a quick 5min call to see if my acute injury is that serious ? 💌 Hopefully you see this in the next few days 😅

@tjsclimbing4648 2 года назад

Thanks for all of this information on here and your website. What does this look like longer term? I have a minor DIP injury. I can still climb hard but I do notice it and don't want it to get worse. I will begin taping it and focusing on open hand crimp strength. Is it just time that will let this heal? Does the pain usually go away after enough time and let you load your finger hard in half/full crimps again?

@alexbarcovsky4319 2 года назад

Same story here. I can climb hard and its like 2-3/10, definetely not even close to a pulley or FDP strain pain, which makes you back off insinctively. This feels much more like a bruise or something thats a minor setback. Update me (or I will update you) if and when things get better.

@matakos22 Год назад

@Alex Barčovský Kind of in the same spot here, do you guys have any updates on this?

@tjsclimbing4648 Год назад

@@matakos22 I taped for a bit and it seemed to help. I avoided climbs that would trigger it. But I think the biggest help was using a warmup block (mini hangboard with a looped rope). I would open crimp on it with my foot keeping tension on the rope. I did 3 sets of 7 seconds of pulling, 3 seconds rest then 1 min rest. I repeated it 3 times. I realize it's a little confusing to type out.. 7 seconds pull, 3 seconds rest, 7 seconds pull, 3 seconds rest, 7 seconds pull, 1 min rest, 7 seconds pull, 3 seconds rest, 7 seconds pull, 3 seconds rest, 7 seconds pull, 1 min rest, 7 seconds pull, 3 seconds rest, 7 seconds pull, 3 seconds rest, 7 seconds pull It would feel sore afterwards but not painful. After a few weeks it went away and I began doing harder climbs on it and it felt stronger than before. Hope this helps!

@matakos22 Год назад

@@tjsclimbing4648 Such a detailed reply man, damn! Thanks a ton, definitely trying that ☺️

@niklasb6849 Год назад

I know this is a bit late but maybe I get an answer! I have pain on my DIP when half-crimping small holds (12mm or smaller). Tha pain is acute, and goes away within seconds after hanging. Does this mean I am not overload, but my fingers are not ready for the acute load? So would training on bigger edges and going slowly lower help? Thanks :)