Do you ever notice that your fingers spread or gap when you crimp? Or have you developed pain on the sides of your finger or in the knuckle from rock climbing?
When the fingers are offset or gapped during crimping, it may cause torsion stress on the soft tissues in the fingers. This can either deflect the finger flexor tendons laterally causing asymmetric stress on the pulleys or can cause aberrant motion in the joints leading to synovitis / capsulitis.
If your fingers spread when you crimp and are interested in fixing this, you may want to check out this video. By gripping and then placing a band between your fingers, you can train your palmer interosseous muscles to help stabilize your fingers when gripping. All you need is a double length runner, a rubber-band, and a fingerboard. Give it a try, it's harder than it looks!
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8 сен 2024