Finger Strength and Stability When Crimping

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Do you ever notice that your fingers spread or gap when you crimp? Or have you developed pain on the sides of your finger or in the knuckle from rock climbing?
When the fingers are offset or gapped during crimping, it may cause torsion stress on the soft tissues in the fingers. This can either deflect the finger flexor tendons laterally causing asymmetric stress on the pulleys or can cause aberrant motion in the joints leading to synovitis / capsulitis.
If your fingers spread when you crimp and are interested in fixing this, you may want to check out this video. By gripping and then placing a band between your fingers, you can train your palmer interosseous muscles to help stabilize your fingers when gripping. All you need is a double length runner, a rubber-band, and a fingerboard. Give it a try, it's harder than it looks!
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Опубликовано:

8 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 3

@jeremyclimbs 2 года назад

This video needs more context…why do this? When to do this/how often? Best for training for…?

@TheClimbingDoctor 2 года назад

There are several examples that can add context, but I will include the one below: A climber presents with middle finger tenosynovitis, essentially an overuse of the finger flexor tendon and an inflammation of the tendon sheath. When observing their gripping, the pointer finger and ring finger spread away from the middle finger. The grip is painful, and strength is diminished. The clinician repositions the climber‘s hand so that the ring and pointer fingers are closer to the middle finger, thus giving it more support. The climber grips again, pain is reduced, and grip strength increases. The clinician can then prescribe this exercise to strengthen the interosseous finger muscles to help normalize gripping mechanics. I often suggest climbers use it as a warm-up for 2 sets of 6 reps (7” on 3”” off) prior to hangboarding, and they carry over the movement pattern into their hangboard session.

@jeremyclimbs 2 года назад

Thank you so much, that is super helpful! I am always looking for these kinds of videos and the context is super important so thank you for taking the time to reply and make this video so much more useful!