I have been chasing down rifle accuracy my whole life mostly with the Remington 700. The dang Remingtons for me shot extreamly well or extreamly bad. I have had worse luck with the heavier barred varmint specials. It was no doubt the barrels . You could feel the tight spots in the barrel after a good cleaning. The last one I messed with was a heavy barreled 308. If you could measure the bore , it would be hour glass shaped. A Barrel that get tighter at the muzzle has good potential for accuracy. I would not worry too much about the crown of the muzzle. That is an easy fix by chucking a round headed brass stove bolt in a drill and smearing valve grinding compound on it. Go in a circular motion. It will break the edge of the crown to a mirror polish. Use a good magnifying glass to check your progress to eliminate nicks and grooves. A thing I will never do is rebarrel a classic rifle like a pre64 Winchester. I would get the most accuracy from it as I could. I know Townsand Whelen said: "Only Accurate Guns are Interesting" I find that to be only partially true. Looks , fit , finish and intangibles count. I have an ugly crappy looking plastic stock 30-06 that I tuned up to my specification. It is only a 1. 25 inch shooter at best. It is my favorite deer hunting rifle. Plan to restock later but the dang thing is the right tool for the job. A case of function over form. I learned that chasing accuracy can take the fun out of life at times.
Jay, it sounds like we have pretty similar thoughts on pretty much everything? Sometimes I enjoy the challenge of chasing accuracy on a particular rifle and sometimes I'm content for a rifle to just shoot whatever it shoots so long as it isn't terrible. In the case of that Westerner I got it for longer range hunting and really wanted above average accuracy from it. And then it turned into an adventure. But I did learn a lot from it and I do enjoy learning and better understanding all of this stuff. That was the first time I had ever run into a bore like that. And it's ironic that you commented on this video because I carried that Westerner to the range with me on the last trip with the 257 Roberts and did some shooting just to see where it's at and it was shooting pretty good and with better velocities? I actually made some progress with it.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving That is great . I love it when a plan comes together and hard work is rewarded. Remember it is that one shot that counts the most when the bullet travels down that cold barrel to hit where the cross hairs are planted on that buck on opening day of deer season.
"...experiment with different patches" Great advice. Wish I heard that about ten years ago. I have been struggling with wrong patches for that long because the patches were my only option at the time I bought them. Off to Cabelas I guess.
Not mentioned but worth it.. Always put some kind of covers on the scope whilr cleaning the rifle.. you don't want any random chemicals attacking your lens coatings! Cheap "bungee" covers are kept on my bench just for this...
Well, you proved your point, you were not getting the copper fouling before the cleaning and now you are. Good on you. I guess if it was me I would do the cleaning procedure one more time before I went to the range, some of those groups looked to me like the old groups but I'm not sure whether cleaning again would help or hurt. But like you said, you can't mess up that barrel. So to me it's kinda like Chicken soup, it can't hurt. God Bless and have a good week.
My only qualm is so much jb bore paste...I feel like we're going to loose a lot of velocity all said and dun with do much taken out the bore, if its jb paste...he says cleaner...cleaner/abrasive paste.. Big diffrence idk if I hes misspoken or has both but scrubbing a barrel with abrasive paste is not the way to tighten a bore ie more velocity
I have never broke in the barrel of any new rifles I have bought and never got aggressive with cleaning to bore run 2 passes with the bronze brush to loosen up the fouling soak a patch with oil and run that thru one pass then run dry patches thru until they come out clean and have never had a problem with accuracy but it does seem that a little fouling makes it shoot better I don't down anyone for breaking in a barrel I see now that it could possibly make a difference in being fairly accurate to having a tack driver
i saw that to, whats the twist rate of the bbl and maybe a 150 gr bullet. and imho stop chasing speed and go for accuracy. speed means NOTHING if your confidence level is shaky at best. one more thing how far off the lands are u.
@@warrenporter302 Tom has mentioned b4 that tight groups on a hunting rifle is not that important. 100-200 yds and he is ok with 3" groups. Me personally, I wouldn't waste another 5 minutes on that rifle.
I noticed that also, but I also noticed the key holing was early in the process. The last nine shots all made nice round holes. But it will be interesting to see how it goes on the next range trip and if I see anymore key holing.
@warren porter, it's a standard 1:10 rate of twist and normally I would agree 100% on not chasing speed, but speed is the only reason for this rifle to exist. I have much lighter easier to carry rifles in 270 and those rifles also shoot higher velocities with shorter barrels. I got this rifle specifically for the higher velocities of a 24 inch barrel and I'm perfectly fine with the extra weight if I'm also getting the extra velocity. But without the extra velocity why would ever want the extra weight? For me there's no need in having this rifle if it doesn't have the velocity that it should, and if I don't get the speed up then I'm still in need of a fast flat shooting rifle for power lines, pipelines, clear cuts, and long range target shooting. But for almost any other rifle for normal hunting I would agree 100% with what you wrote.
good morning ! i have recently had a foot surgery so i’ve had several days on the couch and i came across your channel on youtube.. I have also had a .270 that shot more like patterns than groups.. and in the middle of testing it shot one single one hole group surrounded by several other 3” and 4” groups.. it was also slow by about 100 fps.. the rifle was a commercial mauser with a 24” barrel.. I wanted to shoot the old nosler solidbase 130gr. bullet that had the awful results….it was floated and i changed the scope but it still shot horribly…. so i decided to try another bullet.. one that now has become the “go to bullet “ when i have a rifle that doesn’t want to shoot.. I used the top load in the hornady manual with the 130 hornady spire point flat base bullet and went to the range…. I put up a target with a 1” bull at 100 yards and fired 3 shots …. through my scope i hadn’t even hit the paper…. then with a line break i went down range to find i had just shot a half inch group all in the bullseye!! then i did it again! and again! …. then on a later date i shot a 3/4” group at 200 yards agin in the bull! (i had previously zeroed 1” high at 100 yd.). That day i shot it on paper all the way out to 400 yards and it shot sub minute every time.. I believe the bore in my rifle was “loose” … possibly oversized the slightest amount resulting in less pressure and therefore less velocity…. i don’t think the gasses can escape around a .0001 space fast enough in the last couple inches to lose any measurable velocity .. I believe your older .270 with its 22” barrel has a tighter bore resulting in the higher velocity… just for giggles you might try that 130 hornady flat base spire point over H-4831 .. the Hornady book i have shows a 62.0 gr max charge which is what i used ..but you would want to work up to that.. It just might cure your issues like it did mine..
Dan, that sure is a great feeling when you finally find that perfect load. In this case, I'm going to have to go back and check my notes but I'm pretty sure I tried the 130gr Hornadys and I know I tried H4831. It was actually after I tried the H4831 that I got concerned about this barrel. I've always had great results with that powder in 270. But I think that break in stuff actually helped it? The last time out I carried this rifle just to see what it was doing now and I had a 3 shot group well under 1 inch, with the 130 Hornady and Magpro powder and it was running 3075 fps. It seems to be settling in now after all of that and I'm actually seeing fouling the full length of the barrel now. I just need to carry it back to the range a few more times to see if it's going to do it consistently.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving Yes! it was a great feeling to sort that rifle of mine out! In the case of my rifle it was nearly worn out but the design of that bullet just worked awesome in it and it got me through a few more years of hunting with it.. Another funny thing i have going on now is i have a Winchester model 70 featherweight super grade (cabelas special run) that has the same kind of problem of stringing shots side to side like yours does…. at least mine does when i start stepping up the velocity.. i had some barnes 101gr. lrx’s loaded up and the two lighter loads shot awesome.. but the loads i had at the speed i was looking for literally strung bullets 4” side to side.. i thought that was interesting when i saw yours doing kinda the same thing.. …i should note that it shoots incredible with barnes 80gr. ttsx’s at great speed.. (3550) but i’d rather shoot heavier bullets so i could use it for some pig hunting.. (i live in california…. so i’m pretty much stuck with shooting lead free bullets) did you ever get the .257 sorted out?
@@dantyack1059 I have not got mine sorted out yet. I plan on sending it back to Winchester just to see what they say? In your case keep in mind that the copper bullets are longer because it takes more material to equal the same weight in lead. That adds to length and it's the length of a bullet that determines whether a barrel can stable life it or not. So a 1 in 10 might be able to stabilize a 120gr lead bullet in 257 but it might not be able to stabilize a 120gr copper bullet? That could have something to do with what you are seeing? Maybe a 100gr lead core bullet shoots lights out in yours where as you have to use a lighter copper bullet to get the same results? Just a thought.
Interesting videos, I thought break in was mostly about making future cleaning easier. If you polish a barrel to the point of lessening bullet friction that might lower pressure and cause lesser velocity.
One caution if using penetrating oil, is that some of the really old stuff used to be corrosive. I don't know if you can still buy corrosive penetrating oil, but something to be wary of.
This is a very, very interesting process! Thanks for sharing it. I hope if you have to get a new barrel, it will look as nice and with open sights. It's such a nice looking rifle!
I'm glad you found it interesting Roger. And this being such a good looking rifle is why I'm trying my best not to change anything. I really hope to keep it all original, but if I have to get a new barrel I'm going to work with a gun smith and get a profile that matches this one and have the sights put on the new barrel. Or at least that's my plan if I have to go that direction.
Funny things can happen when dealing with a new rifle? I had a friend that wanted me to look at a bull barrel target rifle that he recently bought. He said that it just wouldn't group with any of the amunition he tried? After checking many things looking for an explanation as to why it had such poor accuracy we found out that a little past midway the barrel there were no riflings? The company made the rifle good and even they didn't know how it got past Quality Control?
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving , I am aware that we all make mistakes sooner or later if we do anything but it escapes me as too how a reputable company could over look something as major as missing riflings especially on a rifle designed for extreme accuracy? The only explanation I could come up with is the rifling broke off somehow when my friend was using it but I don't see how that could have happened? I still like the company and had rather not mention their name. Your videos are helpful!
I really think you should do what you said you where prepared to do. New barrel time. Those targets look like those hits are key holing. Really hope you get that old girl figured out. I wouldn’t change the looks of her keep it blued and put irons back on. Really at that point you could go with the latest and greatest 270 on the market and make a really nice 6.8 good luck. Looking forward to seeing where this goes.
Someone else just mentioned the same thing about the hits key holing, but the couple that were suspect were early in the testing. All of the shots at the end were good so hopefully things are improving and the shots are stabilizing better? The next range trip should tell the tell. And the quickest easiest thing would be to just get a new barrel, but it's rare to have a barrel like this one. I just couldn't pass up the opportunity to do some experimenting with this one and just see what we can learn from it. It might be to far gone but that was really interesting to see that we're now getting copper fouling all of the way to the muzzle. I don't know exactly what that means yet, but it shows something has changed in this barrel. Now I guess we just do some shooting and try to figure out what changed? When all is said and done hopefully we know more than when we started and have just a little better understanding of barrels? And if none of that works then I get to pick a new cartridge for this rifle!
Hi Tom. I believe those chattering marks near the muzzle were made by the chamber reaming process. I remember reading somewhere that they used a long reamer which extended past the barrel and a pilot was put into the muzzle to keep it centered.
Those marks could have been chatter but I can't see any actual marks in the steel. It appears to be just surface discoloration and the color matches perfectly with the carbon further in the barrel but rather than running down the barrel it looks like chatter in the muzzle. It could still be chatter but I've never seen that or anything close to it in any other bore. And in every bore I've looked at the dark fouling runs down the grooves just like this one does near the chamber but this is the only one I've ever seen where the fouling stops before it reaches the muzzle. Those dark chatter looking marks are the only sign of fouling at the muzzle other than the copper that we're just now seeing. This barrel is a mystery for sure.
AJ I thought about cutting it down but I got this rifle specifically to use as a long range hunting and target rifle. Plus I got this rifle in 270 Win just for the higher velocity and I want all of the velocity I can out of it. I'm not going to get that velocity out of a 20 inch barrel. So if I cut it down I'm still not going to have a rifle to use for what I got this rifle for. But other than that you are right that cutting it down would take care of my accuracy issues.
Hello again Mr. River, thanks for producing this part 2. It is interesting that you are getting copper fouling out to the muzzle now. I was originally under the impression that the lands were blown down “eroded” away at the muzzle end and that was causing the carbon leakage all around and into the grooves crossways as well. I wish you luck in part 3. I think I just learned from you that a round patch on a standard jag will probably give me a more uniform contact with solvent for cleaning then using a square patch? I like the looks of the Parker Hale type jags because they seem like the type jags that should only be using square patches, and at that, also give a very nice uniform barrel contact all the way around for a nice cleaning. So I think I will be in for a purchase of round patches for my standard pierce type jags, and get some Parker Hale type jags to only use with the square patches I currently own. Thanks again Tom for your videos, and sharing your knowledge. God bless, have a safe and wonderful 2022. 😎👍
I'm glad you enjoyed it Mike. And the square patches will work on a regular jag just fine its just for me the round patches are a better fit. But if the square ones aren't too tight on your particular jag in your barrel then by all means use them. But you are correct that the Parker Hale jags with square patches give the most uniform contact and that's why I made sure to use the Parker Hale jags for this particular situation. Being that I was essentially polishing the barrel I really wanted the most uniform contact I could get.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving Thanks for your reply Tom, thanks for the advice on the patches. And what you said about using the Parker Hail type jags makes perfect sense esp for your application. Good news, I was able to finally source and purchase a pound of IMR 4895 powder. Hopefully it will work decent with load development for the .243 Win? Any thoughts on this powder? Was originally trying to source H4895 or H4350, but to no avail. Have a good week my friend, God bless.
@@repairfreak Mike, I haven't tried IMR 4895 but looking at it on the burn rate chart it is really really close to IMR 4064 which I have used and is outstanding for .308. In fact back in the day the Army sniper rounds for the M24 used IMR 4064. They determined that to be the best powder for that rifle which had a 24 inch barrel. 4895 being a tad faster burning should be perfect for a 22" barrel? We never know how a powder is going to shoot in a given rifle until we try it but that powder sure seems to have a lot of potential in a .243 and is absolutely worth doing some load testing with.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving Thanks for your kind reply Sir. Yes this powder was advertised to do a whole bunch of calibers. But I couldn’t specifically find it anywhere listed with the Hornady V-max 87 grain that I was able to find and purchase. Closest the Hornady book comes is the H4895 powder for this bullet and weight. But from what I now know the two powders being close are not the same. Question: if I find a 85 grain bullet of different brand using IMR 4895, would using a 2 grain heavier bullet make that much of a difference in powder charge anyways? When a hand loader cant find a direct match with the particular bullet we have, is it acceptable to use load data from a different bullet manufacture as long as the bullet weight alone is very close to what we have, as long as we are using the exact powder type listed in the reload data? Have a great week Tom, God bless! ✌️🙂👍
@@repairfreak That's a tough call Mike. It's always best to use the exact load because different brand bullets can behave differently. But with that said sometimes we run into situations where we have to do some research and make a judgement call. I just checked the 8th edition Horady manual and Hornady lists the 87 and 85 grain bullets together and use the same data for all of their bullets of both weights so that 2 grains shouldn't matter at least for hornady bullets.I also checked Hdgen's load data as I'm guessing you did and saw load data for a 85gr Barnes bullet. I would guess that load data would also work for the Hornady because the load data from Hodgen is usually pretty generic but I would do some more research before trying it. I would try to find verified data for an 85gr Hornady and then compare to the load data for the Barnes just to see. In situations like this I try to cross reference different data just to make sure it's all about the same. If all else failed I would use the data from Hodgen for the 85gr Barnes but that's a judgement only you can make. And you are correct that the load data for H4895 is going to be different than IMR 4895. Sorry I couldn't help more. And FYI, I just checked Speer's load data for their 85gr using IMR 4895 and they're starting charge is higher than Hodgen's Max charge for the 85gr Barnes. So there is a lot of discrepancy there which would definitely make me want to do more research. Had those loads been very similar I would have felt more confident with the Hodgen data. But the Speer data also looked like a really hot load which Speer tends to do sometime. Sorry I couldn't be more help, but that's just part of reloading when things are hard to get.
I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but my thinking is. my normal Savages and Stevens I'm used to all had .22 inch barrels. My Stevens 200 in .243, with a $50 Tasco scope(which I kept) shot .38 round group at 100 yards WITH the awful standard pre accutrigger trigger and the factory Weaver mounts it came with with. But, that was with medium burn rate powder IMR 4064 near starting load in the book, not a slow powder, and using 75 gr Hornady flat based bullets. I feel like I want to use Slower powders with longer barrels and heavier bullets for bean field style shooting. The shorter barrels are easier to carry around. I'm just partial to longer barrels. I apologize for butting in, but I was just commenting on the .22 inch barrel fascination many manufacturers of cookie-cutter factory rifles seem to have.
I had to laugh when I read that Leo because for someone that appreciates simplicity as much as I do I sure can complicate stuff! But I do love experimenting and trying to learn all I can.
Ok Mr. River, thank you very much for the information and video. I got curious what the 270 has left on the table with modern powders. Here are my velocities. Norma 96gr eco 3640fps norma 130gr game strike 3176fps hornady 130gr GMC superformace 3340fps. Hand load 7828 ssc 150gr speer grand slam 3010fps. Now understand this is a very special gun but if anyone would like to see a video of this rifle and cronograph results let me know.
JES rebore to 338-06.?.?. That would be a neat channel project. You can show how people can easily form their brass for 30-06 and some other brass from a simple die set. I think the rebore would run you 250, which I think includes return shipping. The die set from RCBS looks to be 90 and in-stock. You’d have to pick up some projectiles, but those could lead to more videos, too. Just sayin’. Love the channel!
Ryan, I have a friend that would never forgive me if I didn't rebore to a 35 Whelen instead. He absolutely loves that cartridge and has been telling me to rebore to that from day one. But both are outstanding cartridges in their own right and it is amazing what opening the bore just a little bit can do with for an 06 case.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving 35 Whelen is a neat caliber. My understanding is that he wants barrel wall thicknesses to be at least .125” at the muzzle after rebore. I am not sure what your outer diameter is on the Westerner.
Thanks Tom! I never knew there was a “barrel break in procedure” until I watched your channel. Sure wish I had known that since I’ve had three new rifles in my life. They’re all hunting rifles and I’ve killed animals with all three, so they are accurate enough.
Good video, will be interesting to see if it improves accuracy for you; not sure if velocity will improve or not. My experience with 270 is that it will get a full burn in a 22" barrel with most powders, may get a slight benefit out of really slow powders in a 24" barrel but then again I've seen a number of videos mirror my results; 22" is about the sweet spot for that case capacity for 270 + calibers unless running light for caliber bullets. I've got a Sako A7 Roughtech in 7mm mag that seems really slow for what books say it should be; Max load of H4831 with 162gr bullets the powder manufacture and Lee book state at 64 grains i should be getting 2871 ft/sec; accuracy was at 63.1 gr's but magneto speed chrono clocks that load at 2680 ft/sec from a 24 1/2" barrel, rifle is fairly new with maybe 400 rounds thru it, should be well broken in. Its just a sloooow barrel it seems, guess it could be a combination of larger internal volumes in cases and slight oversize chamber allowing for less then full pressure and thus lower velocity then the powder manufacturers test rig. I'd have to run powder up incrementally until i start seeing pressure to know for sure if their listed max is so with my rifle/case and powder combination. Cheers
I'm really curios if the velocity comes up as well but so far it's not looking good. I am using a very slow burning powder but that wasn't encouraging to see the velocities start to go up and then start going backwards. But hopefully we'll get to find out soon? And it will be interesting to find out if where you max out on your powder charge? Good luck with that.
You will get more velocity with a 24-inch barrel and even more out of a 26-inch barrel regardless of the powder you use. There is a limit as to how much more increase you get for the extra barrel. No one wants a 30-inch barrel, right? I don't buy the 22-inch barrel out of any caliber using a 30-06 cartridge platform. You need at least a 24-inch barrel to get the most efficiency out of those cartridges. 308 based cartridges a 22-inch barrel is a good length even though 24 inches will still get you more velocity.
It will and this is a project I need to get back to. It's just with the price of ammo right now and the lack of components I'm not in any big hurry to break it in. LOL
Just cut 4 or 5 inches off of it. Gets rid of the overbore and makes it a very handy carbine. Problem solved and it wouldn’t take $737.15 in Ammo to “break it in”
Thanks John, and it's probably getting a new barrel before this over but I couldn't pass up the opportunity to experiment with this rifle. It's not often we get to experiment like this and actually see what effect we're having on a barrel. Besides, if I get a new barrel then I'll have to decide what to have it chambered in and I don't know if I could handle the stress of having to make that decision! LOL Me getting to choose between any chambering I want including wild cat stuff would be like turning a kid loose in a candy store.
You've essentially reemed that bore with ALL THAT jb bore paste, your velocity will never go up ever again, that barrel I'd be willing to bet is out of spec large therefore waaay more gas blow bye, and more the more u do it...its common sense the barrel has been sanded larger and you allready had slow velocity and leaking, very simple to me
What if the muzzle end was to spec to start with but the chamber end was small due to something like tool wear during manufacturing? The way I figure it there's a 50/50 chance of it going either way.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving oh yeah bye all means someone has to test n try stuff for us, just my guess, mabye you will geter caked back up to tight spec, surely haven't hurt "that" barre loll, koodos brother didn't mean to come off mean sounding, keep up the good work, yah bless you brother.
Erik, I need to carry it back and do some shooting. So far it's still eratic. I carried it out about 6 months ago and fired just an outstanding 4 shot group and thought I had all issues resolved. Then I carried it back out a week later and the group opened up? This one is still a puzzle.
I am curious as to why the barrel has a reverse taper and is this common on some rifles? I never even knew that existed. Swamped muzzleloader barrels, but not reverse taper. Really curious.
Jack, I had never heard of a reverse taper on a bore or bores even having a taper until I started really researching barrel bores because of what I saw happening with this one. And it makes sense that one end of a barrel would be ever so slightly different than the other because of tooling wear or run out in the machinery. And personally I'm starting to think this is pretty common with factory rifles or at least with hammer forged barrels? Since I've started chronographing barrels I'm seeing a surprising number of rifles with low velocities. I don't know how much is from this or just the bores not being quite the right size diameter but I definitely know there are a lot barrels out there that aren't as good as they should be.
Is that a 4-12 Redfield? And I was wondering if you got the scope issue solved with the Parker Hale. Post a video on that when you get a chance. I'm just waiting on some brass to tumble so I can see if I can get my brothers Ruger M-77, 7mm Rem Mag to shoot and working on seating depths for that.
It is a 4x12 Redfield and other than the problems with the 2x7 on the Parker Hale I have nothing but good to say about the Redfield Revolutions. I have them on most of my hunting rifles and I put another Redfield on the Parker Hale. Now I just need the weather to clear up enough for to get it back to the range! And good luck on your brother's M77. I know those can be a little finicky but they tend to shoot really good when you figure out the right load.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving Thanks and Yes. He has a 3-9 X40 Redfield Widefield on the Ruger which he wants to keep on it. So, just to check things out I got some high rings and put my 4-16 X 44 FFP tactical on it (basically to get a better sight picture) and account for any scope issues with the vintage Redfield and took it to the range. Two loads show only slight improvement at about 2.8 in. for 5 shots at 100. Another group that was great until I took a 5th shot) was 4 shots in .682 in. (with one shot through another hole---and a flyer 5th shot 2 inches up and left (groan). That was also with no free floated barrel and trigger pull of about 4.5 pound which was about as low as I could get, Anyway, that was with H4831 and a 162 gr. SST. Basically it will kill him a deer at 100 with a fist sized group, it's just not a target rifle. It's a hunting gun. So, I'll load him up some of that. Also waiting for warmer dryer days at the range to try a 139 gr factory load with his old scope. (I could use a break from the recoil). Take care and thanks again.
Enjoyed your videos. Especially on the model 70 westerner. I will be very interested to know what your final results will be. I have learned alot from you. I wondered why many rifles shoot lower MVs and seen to rarely shoot better than 1.5 moa. We all have heard of some rifles the owners never could get to shoot satisfactorily. Now we may know why!
I do think this is a factor in why some rifles just won't shoot. And I have seen some that will shoot but still have low velocities. My friend Joey has a Super Grade model 70 in 280 rem that he bought brand new and it's slower than his model 70 in 7mm08. But it will shoot great groups. I never did figure out what was wrong with that rifle?
The Winchester site has a similar looking rifle "Alaskan" with a 25 inch barrel that has a fold-down rear sit and hooded from site. .30-06 is the smallest caliber in the line for the rifle, but it's beautiful. I wish money was not an object. They have discontinued even the "sporter," now I see. I wish they would not discontinue so many great rifles.
@@TomRiverSimpleLiving Well on a positive note, and I didn't think about it, When a Rifle manufacturer discontinues a model, they kinda become instant collector items. It's just access and availability that then becomes a challenge. So many I wish I hadn't sold or traded.
Hey Tom got a question for you. Now id like to say regardless of your answer im going to do what I plan to do so im not taking this as a how to and neither should anyone else. That bore cleaner the jb stuff. Is it a good idea to run that threw first before u put down rounds. On a new barrel. Eliminate the issues first instead of using bullets to do the same thing? Just brain storming what do u think
Sorry I believe I clicked the wrong spot ill as again just incase. See i was thinking the jb was used just to restore a barrel not so mutch a new barrel. If its used for break in then do u always stop short before passing the crown.
@@BuckIt00 For my normal break in on a new barrel I never worried about the crown because I was only passing the rod through 10 times from one end of the barrel to the other. In this case I wanted to stay away from the crown just because I was being so aggressive and making so many passes. And JB itself is just a cleaner designed to get rid of fouling. It's just like some of the strong chemical cleaners today that get rid of copper fouling. JB is just a very mild abrasive as opposed to a really strong chemical. A lot of shooters have opted for the chemical cleaners instead of an abrasive for fear of to much wear on their barrels but the chemical cleaners are also eating away at the steel which is why you have to be so careful about how long you let those chemical cleaners soak in a barrel so I see no reason not to stick with JB? And keep in mind copper is a very stable metal which is why it is used for so many things from coins to wire. Any chemical strong enough to remove copper is also going to react to steel. At least that's my view.
You are not seeing things and a few did look that way. But something interesting that I noticed is the only shots that looked that way were fired early on. All of the shots fired at the end looked pretty good so hopefully the bullets are becoming more stable? It will be interesting to watch for that on the next range trip.
Saw some weird holes when shooting a 7 mag the other day but I chalked it up to the target being up against some rough plywood or wind getting behind the paper target. Looked almost like shrapnel from the wood. Other shots looked fine.
LOL, Honestly Dalan I hate Savage, or Savages hate me? I haven't figure out which it is yet. Every time single time I say something good about Savage I have issues with one. My brother in law went with me to the rifle range several years ago and on the way he asked me what I thought about Savage because that's what he had and I said they were good rifles and had really made some improvements with accuracy. We got to the range and on his first shot a bolt (screw in bolt) that was on the actual bolt broke and feel out of the gun. I decided then to never comment on Savage again! But with that said, as far as I know Savage is the only major manufacture left that doesn't use hammer forged barrels and I love that about them. Plus Savages are famous for getting great velocities from their rifles, and of course accuracy.
Fred, I've wondered about that for a long time and now knowing what I do about velocities increasing on some barrels after the first however many shots I'm convinced there is a break in, at least on those barrels. Now for the rest of them I can't say for certain but I do think it makes a difference on most factory rifles. But that is speculation.
