Nice! Two GoPro's...one on the bow one on the stern on a swivel pole would be sick. Send GoPro your profile. I've seen GoPro sponsor people way less interesting.
That dodger is going to look great when you're making your Atlantic crossing in a squall! Maybe add some LEDs that can dim and turn red for night voyages, well done... 👍🌧
The paint "Orange peeling" is caused by the thinner evaporating too quickly as the paint dried. generally one of three things causes that, A) paint went on too thick. 2) Temperature was too low for the paint to dry evenly. III) paint was not mixed properly.
He's dealing with wrinkles, not orange peel. His previous coat was dry but not completely cured and the new coat revitalized the previous coat, fusing the coats together and causing the random wrinkles.
Sand down the orange peel look of the paint until it’s gone. Then use a satin paint because it hides imperfections. Just an idea from someone that ran into the same problem.
Most likely the orange peel is caused by insufficiently wiping to eliminate the Amine Blush that comes from the curing of the epoxy cure. Not sure sanding will solve the problem.
I’m 9 months late but it’s not orange peel, it’s a chemical reaction between the epoxy primer which didn’t fully cure and the paint he chose. There’s nothing you can really do about it but test the paints you’ll use, especially if you’re doing it on a big surface or spend more money by staying with one manufacturer for everything.
Hey Sam. Last year I built a seat, the base of which fits into the companionway board slots on both sides. It allow me to sit comfortably under the dodger when underway - free from wind and spray - and at the same time maintain good visibility. Enjoying your channel.
@@samholmessailing Without that little seat, as you likely know, it can get uncomfortable after a short time. Discomfort can be a great motivator. Now I can sit in that location comfortably for long stretches of time keeping an eye on the chart plotter at the nav station below as well as out on the water. It works great. Best to ya.
Bob, Yes this is something Im trying to learn from Sam, is his patience and relaxed approach. I think thats genetic. I have a friend Matt, same way, so is his dad and brother. My family are all type A, high strung, so this is very inspiring to me to learn some techniques.
i painted my whole aluminum john boat (1959 alumacraft fd) with that 2 part barrier coat.. that stuff is legit.... all the paint will come off before that stuff comes off.
Oh my GOSHHHHHHHHHHHHHH this is beautiful! Thanks for sharing this little build series. I was thinking of getting a SUPER RIDICULOUSLY EXPENSIVE soft dodger, but now Im thinking I need to make my own. Great work!!
Sam, do NOT counter sink your window's screw holes. They WILL crack as the expansion in the heat and cold is so different than the plastic and substrate underneath. But the most important reason is that a counter sunk screw head does not allow for the plastic to move with expansion. I will crack in a year or two. I've done several window installations on my boats. On my Rawson 30 circumnavigator I used oversized holes in the window's Lexan and roundhead threaded machine screws into the glass (with silicone in the holes and on the threads and backing acorn nuts inside with Loctite). That was over 20 years ago and though there is crazing those windows still don't leak. :-)
Great work on the dodger. That rippling or orange peeling of the paint can also be caused when you’re a little too eager to apply the next coat. Feels kinda dry but that happens when the previous coat hasn’t quite cured and it sweats under the next layer.
Sam, I have a dodger on my boat that was built in the same way, it is 54 years old and still in fantastic shape. The other great thing about having a hard dodger is they keep so much water out of the interior of your boat. All the wood around my companionway is original and the boat has lived in the Pacific North West all it's life! When you get a hot humid day in the summer and it starts raining, you can leave the companionway open, that is a damn nice thing to have!
I recommend getting some caps for those bolt ends. You dont want to catch your hand or your tator on those while underway and end up get a cut too big for normal first aid gear. Uline carries them and can get them in bulk. Maybe even cut the bolts down some too. Dont need that much thread coming out the back.
The wrinkles are from applying a coat before the previous coat cured completely. The new coat revitalizes the uncured coat and fuses under the surface. To avoid this, make sure your coat is cured, thoroughly. Just because it's dry to the touch doesn't mean it's ready for another coat.
It looks good, a guy I know had one made for over USD10,000. My advise would be to apply the top coat in 5 supper-thin coats using a roller and tipping (lightly pulling the paint up in the same direction) with a very fine brush within seconds of rolling- it’s a two person job; also let the paint settle for 20 minutes after mixing the two parts to let the bubbles out, only add the thinner after the settling period. This way one avoids orange peeling, ridges and running.
You can use a foam strip instead of adhesive. Easy to remove yet provides some water protection. Check weather stripping or gasket material. An old wetsuit can serve also if you cut it up.
Love this project idea, only thing I could add is a video by the Sailing frenchman, in which he makes solar panel mounts from lighter material than the plywood, just as strong, check this out if you want less weight for this project. Like all your videos, addicted to sailing and videos on that.
Hey Sam Re paint wrinkles: if you put 2nd or 3rd coats of enamel on without enough dry time for previous coats it could cause wrinkling. Great job though. Looks good.
@@samholmessailing the thinner in the paint is why it wrinkled. Longer cure time between coats. Maybe a little less thinner. Know this from experience.
@@samholmessailing I don't know that they weighed it but from watching the build it seemed much lighter. The main reason though was durability. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-w5wYICajlek.html
The dodger should improve the looks of the boat. It will be a real great addition to the boat when sailing, keeping the wind and spray out of the cockpit when underway. Sweet job.
Sam..your boat, your build....it looks good and seems practical for your use..and if you find you don't like it...you can easily remove it ..no harm....John
Great work, Sam. I think your hard dodger looks way better than one you could buy, because its custom built to fit your boat. That, and we all got to see how very creative you are.
I would really suggest sealing those windows and wet installing those screws. Also good thing with Acrylic is that you can polish it to remove scratches.
you can buff out any scratch you want on thick acrylic with polishing compound and rotary buffer. there's even filler compound for the really deep stuff.
the wrinkling of paint can happen for several reasons. One of them if a topcoat solvent is dissolving the under layer paint. (like spraypaint over fresh layer of regular terpentine based paint). I used that method ones on the smooth wall sockets to get the more rough to fit the wall paint:) Or if a top coat shrinkage is much more than the still flexible paint under it. My guess in this case the epoxy layer was dry but not fully cured (at least 7-10 days)
U might want to look at weather stripping the bottom of the Dodger before u mount it also maybe some rubber gasket for the windows but just a suggestion
Lose the cam cleats on the main traveler, direct the port and starboard lines to turn blocks and back to cam cleats back in the cockpit. I agree....travelers on main booms are something that really do need to be adjusted often and it shouldn't be a hassle to do so. Dodger came out great!
It looks great Sam. You should paint something cool on it. Get a stencil or make one yourself. I did something like that for an old Datsun on my hood. Put a dragon on it.
Another great video, Sam. I'm not going to own another boat nor will I be fabricating anything with plywood and fiberglass, but watching you do it and all the other stuff you do is always fun and educational.
now you need a windshield wiper, dome light, some fuzzy dice hanging....put eisenglass on the back so you can have cabin door shut but top hatch open then you can see out and remain dry
The white paint will lift if there is any grease or oil or silicone on the primered surface. Degrease those parts before you paint em!! thumbs up dude!
Two questions: 1. I see the map of the Atlantic above your bed. Route planning? Where do you thing you'll land first on the crossing? 2. Did you take your prop off the boat and bring it inside so it doesn't get stolen? I saw the one on the shelf in you bedroom.( I guess that is actually 3 questions.)
Awesome job! I believe the wrinkling in your top coat of paint is due to your base coat and your top coats being two different kinds of paint that cure at different rates. The under coats would need to be completely cured before adding the top coats to avoid that.
Hi Sam...Sorry I'm a bit late but you might want to install opening ports or similar in the front perspex panel. It's always too hot in the cockpit with no airflow. Just a suggestion, Great Channel...
I found the Wet Edge paint to be very easy to get a great finish. i used a mohair roller with very little paint on each coat and didn't even have to tip it. Good luck
I was checking out that dodger while watching some of your other cruising videos and thinking it looked like you might have made it yourself. Nice to see I was right. It came out great! You do good work.
Apoxsee paint is awesome but you have to let it cure all the way Harding all the way befor putting on a nether Coat of paint or otherwise it will orange pill every time
From experience, button head screws with no countersink gives a tighter seal, more even finish and thus cleaner look (than uneven countersinks). T-nuts are better than hex nuts thanks to the smooth interior they allow.
The GoPro 9 with the Media Mod does a great job of directing the pickup of the mic and greatly reducing the windnoise... it's built in "dead cat" works really good.
Great job! Inspired me to have a go at making my own.. Canvas /tubing version in UK cost £ 900/1000 for my 21ft Snapdragon so hard dodger better option - Thanks for the videos! Good luck 🍀 cheers
Sometimes, like all the time, the unspecial blade will melt the plexi. You just use a circular saw, even on curves if you sink the cut 1/8" both sides.
