When I set up the car, I always start with the ride height as the base: what is the lowest ride height I can get away with? Then that affects how I set up the springs. On fast rallies, you want the lowest ride height and stiffest springs you can get away with so you don't have too much body roll at speed, which will always cause you to make corrections and affect your confidence and make you lose time, but this is of course complicated by how bumpy the rally is. Stiffer springs means you need to respect the rebound a lot more (as I have come to understand it), so softer rebound; unless you have a very smooth fast rally (like Scotland in DiRT2.0), which means you can have the springs stiffer all around pretty much for a car with a very flat platform through fast corners (but a softer anti-roll bar to compensate for potentially going a bit more sideways). The differentials are the thing that affect the car's handling the most, and here for me the starting point is the brake balance. Ideally on a car with a centre differential (which allows for more intricate fine tuning of the car's handling) I want a 58% brake balance (or close to it) so I can brake into corners and go sideways as quickly as possible to get out of the corner as straight as possible (like how Colin McRae used to drive, and how Esapekka Lappi drives now), but this means you need to be much smoother braking in a straight line, because the car will move around more underneath you (not for everyone). For the modern Rally1 and Rally2 cars, which only have front and rear differentials, your handling options are more limited, so you want to keep things simpler: probably no lower than 66% front biased braking, because the car won't really be able to handle the potential volitility of a 58% (or thereabouts) balance, because of the lack of the stabilising centre differential. Here you can decide if you want an understeering car (for maximum stability), or an oversteering car (for more precision, but more handling volatility). It's very difficult with cars with only a front and rear differential to get an ideal balance from rally to rally (because they are more simplistic, rudimentary vehicles). Every single component of setup - including the toe and camber angles - matters a great deal and if you find the balance that works for you from event to event, you will shave seconds off your time without even having to change your driving style or approach to the rally. That's where the fun comes in, if you're interested in becoming as fast as you possibly can be. If you know what your driving style is, spending time in setup paying attention to every single detail is one of the greatest pleasures of a driving game, because you will inevitably see results as you fine tune the car to your liking.
Thanks for the great explanation on springs and dampers which I could actually understand. Its really going to help me with tuning. Looking forward to your next video.
Thank you so much for the help. I always had a sort of balance in tuning that I've always liked. But the dampers and springs explanation really helped me understand for myself. Youre a good teacher.
Hey man! Thank you for this video! Watched all of your dr2.0 vids and I’m happy that you keep doing it! About suspension… It’s strange, but I have noticed that there are 2 types of settings that racers use. Quite dramatic, but they either go all the way stiff and fast and high, either stiff springs and a little bit higher with more soft dampeners… so I kinda get confused. Stiffening up your chassis means that your car will behave kinda like a bouncing ball ⚽️ which is not very good because it means more air-midair time. On the other hand making it soft affect your overall car behavior - like cornering, spinning tail and hard to drift (very slow). But anyway I get what you’re saying - I guess talking it through makes things more understandable 🤣🤣
Here! I remembered my point: When is the good situation for really soft layout? Ps: you say your best setup is fast bump all the way to the left , but I remember in DR2.0 that meant really soft fast bump 😐 🤔 or is it fast to the left in Ea wrc?
@@TarasKuznetsovMusic Yeah it also seem unclear to me what -5 or +5 mean which one is faster, I also assumed that faster release would be +5, which goes in opposite to what he tries to demonstrate here. Not that the dev could put something more meaningful, but well when description for your graphic setting is "low, medium, high", not sure we should expect more clarity anywhere. To your question a soft layout could be very good for tarmac, as you will be way lower to the ground. Having said all of that something what is a bit missing here is the differenciation between slow and fast, in what they exactly mean. The "flow" that is explained, is the limit between driver input and road feedback. Usually, your slow settings are for your driving input (turn, brake, acceleration) and the fast settings are for jumps, bumps and holes. So... all things considered, I was hoping they would bring back fast rebound settings, like in DR1, but they sticked with DR2 approach, as such without those two type of settings for both directions you might as well just drop it entirely and well ignore it for the most part.
@@kevinhadj82 absolutely man 👍🏽 But it wouldn’t do much difference on tarmac because usually your clearance is almost zero, and there’s not so much space for the suspension to travel 🤷🏾♂️
@@kevinhadj82 I guess slow and fast diferenciación could be explained like in which mode the damper will work. It kinda opens up in a different way depending on which kind of g force is applied and slow/fast margin that you set (the 3rd slider) is meant for you to decide in which mode exactly your damper should work more. On the practical side I guess if you set it to -5 (to the left till the end) then your jumps are gonna break the car, because the damper will only (mostly) work in slow mode, unable to process heavy GForce from the jump 🤔
Been waiting for this… as soon the video was over i test in finland with puma hybrid😎 shaved off some seconds on every ss i tried.. Thankx for tips and trix👍 and you explain so we understand.. keeping it simple on setups👍keep up the good work💪 looking forward too next wrc video😎
I always come back to your guides when I can't get my tune right. What I personally find extremely difficult is considering the bump division and in what cases I need to increase or decrease it. I'd appreciate an additional comment on that
It depends what you want to do with it and how often that "it" happens in the location. Here in Finland I kept it fairly center, because both jumps and corner stiffness are equally needed for driving. Take a look at the croatia guide, where I put it to the max, because I wanted to use the fast bump only to deal with mistakes. So it should only activate, when you actually made a mistake and hit a curbstone. (I could imagine the other extreme for mixed events like portugal, to make it only really stiff on the tarmac, but that could be in conflict with the jumps, so need to experiment first there, take this with grain of salt)
Hi do you know if the game changes the setup to fit the surface when it's with no tuning option? Like in a Club, nor in the Online it's possible... In Dirt2.0 there was a way to even see the Dirt solution for the specific stage/country...
So I have a question when making dampers a little stiffer.. does that cause less traction?.. when on gravel doing lots of hairpin-and 1s and 2s.. I seem to slide wayyy wider.. ( also can you do a video on like wrc2 /wrc Jr for chile .. I feel like those have high potential for gains by tuning)
I can't think of physics why the dampers should do that. Maybe with too hard springs? But if the energy is there in the Slide you either Slide furth your your car leans. You don't want too much leaning
You should make your own setup. I only show mine as an example, the aim is to show how to do it yourself. You know the saying with giving a man a fish vs. teaching how to fish?
@@skyrex2465 Your right I should learn how to setup a car and I do make changes once in a while but I feel comfortable with the car almost every time I use your setups.. Thanks again.
Because it costs you. Either a higher center-of-gravity, so worse cornering speeds. Or worse bump absorption for uneven roads or running over things and into roadside trenches. So you should only ever make the bucket as large as you need, not larger.
This is absolutely necessary for me rn. I am at a point where I can drive well but don’t know how to tune my car, and it hurts my performance. 🫡 thanks for your explaination and tips
Tip: Tune to the track and conditions first and then tune to the driver second. I see too many people do it the other way around and they only get slower. If the driver has difficulty controlling the car (to an extent) then work on improving your technique so you can be more adaptable. Car tunings should never be changed to replace poor techniques but to enhance good technique. I hope that makes sense. It was a poor choice of wording on my part. Good luck and see you on the stage.
@@Marksman91 I definitely understand what you're saying and would/have never done it the wrong way around myself. However, I have had a very basic understanding of tuning especially when it come to springs and dampers, so my performance was always hindered by my shoddy tuning. I was really only ever able to dial my car in tuning-wise for tarmac events. I have just started the last round of my JWRC campaign, in Greece, and followed his tuning tips for Greece (from DR2.0) and it made a huge difference. I feel like my skill is amplified by the tuning and the car does exactly what I want, especially after one or two personal tweaks. So far so good too, maintaining a steady but very controlled pace that's gotten me to second. No mistakes, just good fun! I've been playing DR2.0 for a few years and now WRC, and until this event I thought that the problem was me, not the setup, so I would push too hard and get caught out. I'm realizing how absolutely critical a good setup is, which seems super obvious now lol.
