I am aware of the typo made in programming. The whole system since this video has been reprogrammed with all new names and spelling corrected. This set up in this video didn't end up working, next weeks video will show the problem and the fix.
Good call on killing the 24V power. (we break the R wire on the thermostat in the system I maintain instead of at the transformer, but it does the same thing). I suggest putting the duct detector in the supply air, as of now, if the blower motor releases its' magic smoke, the DD won't go into alarm until there is an MFT of smoke in the rest of the house... Better for the detector to catch it right away...
Yeah that was a thought I had the whole time the problem is finding a location on the supply air that is suitable for mounting and since in my location here it doesn't seem to matter if it's on the return or the supply or both I had to put it on the return as it was the only flat surface I could mount to but I agree with what you're saying
Yeah I think there might be just more of a pain to get to. this set up I did in this video didn't end up working anyways so you will see some changes in next weeks video
@@topher8634 yes I wasn't aware of them at the time but they seem like a pain to get to anyways. but yes I'm an idiot should have known they were there.
@@nics-systems-electric you don't know until you know. You already have a vast knowledge of high and low voltage. Control circuits are a beast in themselves. You'll get it I'm confident.
Amazing video Nic!! This is the reason why i like addressable systems you can do all sorts of crazy mapping and stuff like that. I'm planning on doing something similar except on my older gas fired furnace (1994, no ac) it has these little bimetallic heat sensors that break the 24v AC going into the board so i might just tap into that with some F2 spade connectors (so i can easily revert back to how it was) but i've seen apartment installs always break the "R" wire but i would rather prefer the system to shut down immediately rather than wait 90-120 seconds.
the reason why the Relay 1 NO terminal is on the other side is simply bc honeywell wanted to stay consistant with the locations of the older style modules. the older style modules only had room for 5 terminals on each side so the NO open contact was always on the other side. the newer style modules can support that 6th terminal but for consistancy sake they kept it the same layout as the old style. it becomes very useful when you are replacing an old module that failed, and the wire would too short to reach the other side of the new module.
That makes sense I could've sworn I came across one where it had all six terminals on the one side but I could be imagining things I understand that concept of making it easier for a replacement but it's a pain when you need a resistor across and you have to extend it all the way across the module lol
might have mentioned this in another video but IMC (international mechanical code) requires the duct smoke be on the return side. considering your residential air handling unit is still below the CFM where duct smokes and unit shutdown to begin with, putting it on the return side is more than acceptable.
Yes I think you mentioned that in another video I'm not sure what it is in Canada though as I've seen it on both sides we do require HVAC shut down and duct detection regardless of CFM I've seen it on as small as fans servicing bathrooms for ventilation
@@nics-systems-electric gotcha i suppose your codes differ, my state has adopted IMC so generally i see return side only, but i do still see supply only and return and supply both.
Nick, you should probably get another one of those devices that gives you a text message on the fire alarms go off the reason why is if you we’re at the school behind your house doing testing or whatever you can get a text message that the fire alarms went off or went into trouble
hey nic you should do an overview of all your tools you use on all your projects and for work. i think some of us world love to see the stuff you use to maybe get an idea on what we should get ourselves.
I'm wondering if it's better to use the normally open instead of normally closed contacts. The reason to do this is if the fire alarm system or SLC goes down you wouldn't be letting the furnace run without protection. The downside of course is that if there's SLC trouble your house will go cold.
That transformer secondary is the "R" terminal i was speaking of. That is the control power for the whole system. If you kill it everything should shut down. The reason you only have 2 wires at the t stat is because you have the Honeywell prestige IAQ system. The tstat is powered by 24VAC with those 2 wires and switches the different operations wirelessly to that gray module underneath your duct detector. Its called an EIM for equipment interface module.
I figured the thermostat that must be wireless as there's only two wires a whole bunch of people told me I'm wrong that it is wired so thanks for letting me know that I was right lol. This set up it didn't end up working anyways where once the system was running in cooling or heating it didn't shut down even when the board lost power so I redid this set up which that video will be up next week.
@@nics-systems-electric no you weren't wrong if you look at stat you should see an R and C terminals which is 24VAC hot and common. All the system functions (compressor, reversing valve, blower, aux heat) are switched via relays on that EIM based on wireless signals from stat.
I wouldn't switch the control board for the AC itself, those american standard systems like to throw errors when the control board doesn't behave the way its intended, instead I would switch the 24v control for the thermostat, therefore it completely disables thermostat control when the fire alarm is active without killing power to the control board.
That doesn't work unfortunately it is a wireless thermostat it will continue to run. Killing power shouldn't be a problem anyways you kill power to the board every time you open the door to change the filter
@@nics-systems-electric understood, I didn't see any other problems than just switching the control board, that was the only concern, honestly I was only looking at it from like an amp draw point of view, but it's within spec as you mentioned so all good there
Yes I did since this video I have gone through the entire program redid every device to look cleaner and fix any errors which there are plenty of because of my disability which makes spelling my spelling terrible
@@nics-systems-electric I really enjoy your content. I have always had a passion for alarm systems and fire alarm systems. Sadly, I took a different career path (IT Computer Technical Analyst). I would love to learn how to do stuff like that, but being in QC, the rules are very strict... Maybe one day I'll find a job posting that offer you the mandatory courses. Also, It is not evident about your disability. All this nice and smart work, I would have not been able to tell. Keep it up man!
