The strips in a heat pump system have 3 functions: (1) supplement the heat pump as auxillary heat; (2) provide heat in the event the heat pump malfunctions as emergency heat; and (3) to add heat back to the air stream when the heat pump goes into defrost. This is called defrost heat. For a heat pump to defrost it switches to cooling and shuts off the outdoor fan so the system can build pressure and heat to melt the ice. If the strips down turn on you're basically air conditioning. Nice job on this. Don't worry I can't draw either.
great job! typical industrial relays list contact designations as it sits with no power to coil(n.o or n.c) even in complex safety relays with 8 contact sets. you definitely got a deal on that box! i use them often, but prefir the ones with removeable backplates, they make it easier to mount components.
What about interrupting the common to the thermostat(s). This may result in a bit of a delayed shutdown (in some cases), but takes away the need for all the relays in cutting complete power to the entire HVAC unit. Regardless, nice video. Pretty cool that your family has this trust in you, as they should.
Well, good job. You fixed it! Now, I did watch the videos, but.. was it hard? I think your house has an awesome system, especially when its connected to the HVAC. That just makes it cooler.
Nice job fixing it up. Perhaps you can set up another monitor module (or change the garage supervisory tie-in to a dual monitor module) to the other set of contacts on the relay to trip a supervisory should the relay decide to crap out and de-energize when it shouldn’t?
@@nics-systems-electricyeah, that is true. But it would help troubleshoot should the relay, transformer, or breaker for the transformer decide to not work. Also, have you thought of an HVAC shutdown bypass, be it on the panel, or a keyswitch connected to a monitor module, to not have the furnace repeatedly shut down and restart during testing?
I saw you testing the relay by switching the outlet. Someone could easily kill power to the furnace by flipping that switch. You could consider removing that switch or running a separate power source to the transformer, but this depends on how worried you are about people messing with that switch accidentally or maliciously.
I talked about that in the video. So that should explain most of it but no not that worried it's my house there's not usually a large amount of strangers in the closet of a basement bedroom
Also I've touched a HOT side of a plug not plugged all the way in and it just felt like something moving back and fourth through my finger. Most likely because I was wearing shoes with rubber souls.
@@IanGSully depends on the magnet often times they have two taps depending on how strong you need the door held open last one I installed I think was like 45 or 80 mA depending on which tap you use so not much at all
I got zapped by 240 unplugging a cloths dryer, plug was stubborn tried getting a better grip and the plug had come out around an half inch, finger slipped under on both sides and had a good shock
@@nics-systems-electric yup! I have a similar setup but I’m using a Shelly to control the contactor Off the alarm panel I’m just monitoring two outputs one for fire one for alarm and it all ties into homeassistant, not fully ideal but for what it is it’s a step up from what (wasn’t) there
Why not just add a shut trip expansion module to the main HVAC MCB? You don't have to worry about power consumption of relays/contactors and since there is no transformer needed (as long as the fire alarm relay can operate on mains voltage) there is one less thing to potentially fail. Sure, you have to manually reengage the MCB after the fire alarm triggers, but since that should rarely happen it seems like the easiest solution to me.
Very expensive if even possible to find. there is only one relay extremely extremely small power consumption and having to manually reset would be problematic
@@schlabberdog around $160 for a 60 amp which my furnace would need two shunt trip breakers unless I put in one 100 amp at the panel which is getting quite costly and then would have to be reset
Couldn't you just wire the safety switch for your smoke detectors into the door safety switch so in the smoke detectors go off it opens the door circuit which would kill the furnace
I'm assuming you were thinking of the smoke detectors having a relay built into them which they do not and if they did that would be a local relay to each detector
Nic be mindful of using these relays you buy on Amazon and such, this looks like an Amazon brand. They may not be listed devices buy UL or the Canadian equivalent. I spend the extra to buy a quality listed brand just in case it burns my house down one day my insurance company won’t put the blame on me. Also I do see the no name ones with the listing symbols on their typically those are fake in my opinion and just printed on there.
Can't remember if this one was brand new or came out of equipment from somewhere insurance is definitely pretty relaxed here that's crazy that they would come at you for that they would never look into anything that far here lol
Cutting the thermostat R wire would have been so much simpler, the R wire is the input to the thermostat which is what the thermostat uses to then connect the R wire to other wires to control the furnace
Also having the relay on constantly isn’t good for it, I’ve had relays melt because i left them on too long, ideally you want the relay to be off all the time, then turn on when the fire alarms go off
@@nics-systems-electric usually the R wire will be in the thermostat receiver box unless the thermostat receiver is built in the control circuit of the furnace
I know it doesn't matter in terms of safety but did you check to see if the compressor shuts off with this system? Also I probably would have bypassed that old switch in the closet, you already had your wire nuts out.
