First Attempt Trad Climbing on Erect Direction at The Gunks, NY 

I'm a big fan of the raw videos with the falls, as well as the commentary. It helps me learn what to do, what not to do, and why you should or should not do something. As somebody who learns most of their technique primarily from youtube I appreciate the chance to see somebody talk through their decisions and point out their own mistakes. Kudos!

That climb was hilarious. The shirt on the leg gag had me rolling.

Props for leaving this one up and not just posting a refined version with better performance. We've all been there. I have noticed on quite a few of your videos that you pass really good hand jam rests in favor of laybacking in a much more strenuous position. You can do that because you're strong and have incredible endurance. Guys like me have to seek out creative rests and jam rests because I can't just hang on my grip forever. Looks like a really tough line and you did a good job despite some of the mistakes- all of which I think most climbers that plug gear and get gripped have made at some point.

Had an fun time trying to lead ED after my partner backed off. Got through the "crux" and tried to do it all in one pitch but ended in terrible rope drag mostly because I wasn't smart/brave enough to extend my slings enough. From what I can remember if broken into two pitches it's like 5.10a first pitch to Cray's exposed 510a G second pitch.. wild that such a impossible looking roof can be climbed by mortals!!! The gunk's may be the best trad crag in the universe!

I am always impressed with your endurance! The one thing I would say is that putting some time in backing off the grade and practicing placing gear, preplanning a rest point, getting to that rest point, setting the feet in the best place to get as much rest as possible and the least amount on the arms, spending as much time needed to preplan placing a piece the first time, where exactly it goes, where exactly it is on your harness, then getting it and placing it the first time. If it doesn't go the first time in the exact place you expected it to go then it is a fail. Stepping up the game on gear placement when it's not critical will pay off big time when your playing for keeps. It also will improve the trad grade you climb, increase your confidence because you know exactly how long it will take to place a piece and how much reserves you have, and it increases your enjoyment because your not fiddling with gear your spending more time climbing with the confidence that the last piece is exactly where you want it and it is the most secure for the giving situation.

Very impressive. Congratulations, great climbing...

I loved the shirt sliding down around the foot. 😁

Holy balls this is a great video. Thanks for posting the less-than-perfect ones. I’m learning a lot from you.

Loved this one, looks like a scary climb :D

Thank you for these videos 🙏🏻 fun to watch and very informative to a new trad leader

Awesome. Loved watching the realness.

I had a multi hour epic on this route myself, i didnt extend the first (big) piece before the crab crawl and did it all in one pitch... the rope drag was insane and my second had just as much trouble...Do it in two pitches unless your crazy solid on roofs...But the climb has good holds and just keeps coming and coming. Felt like a real deal route for sure. great videos!!!

One definitely needs to split the pitch off the grant traverse ledge into two, taking a hanging belay in the corner before the traverse left under the roof. At the very least double ropes are a must for safety, lest one be unable to move as one is finishing the final pitch, which meanders first left, back right, then back left, not to mention the roof itself. The climber showed excellent control hanging from the lip of the roof after the traverse and protecting it. One might be tempted to get on with it, but without that protection a full be quite serious, considering the protection under the roof might be less than bomber for holding a pretty hard fall with the last line of resort being the belayer in the corner.

Incredible climb!

Love the raw videos ... I don't mind the naysayers. Too many people post clipped down clean music videos, I mean climbing videos ;) I try to post up climbing videos that are all raw and often first attempts for me ... I am sure I will cringe looking back at them a year from now :) The adventure is real in raw footage ... You just can't capture the same emotion and struggles on later attempts. Keep it up. Oh and have you modified your gunks rack ? I am still using a double .2-3 and throw in nuts if I know a route could use them on occasion ... But I also place two pieces for every one you do so lol

Im climbing this route for the first time this weekend and I am quite nervous.

Give Teeny face (5.10a) a try! It's an overlooked Trapps route that has a super classic second pitch

That thing looks rad

I can’t believe you sat on that shit pin at the top.

My hands were sweaty the entire time.

Was this an instruction video on drag? You crack me up. Oh sh# I lost all my chalk

the 2 fixed cams , are the ystill there ?

wow :) i see you falling for the first time

Is there a reason you don’t hand jam? Seems like there were some bomber jams that could have been used to save your strength but you chose not to.

Imagine the fall you would have taken if that fixed gear you clipped didn't hold? Awesome video

great video! Was it a better stance sidepulling where there appears to be a bomber hand jam? at the pin you rested on it looks like theres a thank-god hand jam to sink your wrist into that could have given you some rest. dunno though, the video could be playing tricks on me

that first crux at 7:30 gave me Nam-like flashbacks of the final move on this route: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-O2lkkATHyRw.html exactly the same! I was also under impression that you've used too much gear after the optional ancor. Or maybe, that's just not a trad mindset of mine

Nice!

Is there a reason for you to put your quickdraws in to the slinga of old CAMs stuck in the Wall? It seems that it Would be a lot safer to put it in to the actual loop of the cam since UV and general weather affect textile way more.

Why do you climb with single rope?

Much better to split the last pitch in 2, belaying in the corner. the drag can be quite serious and dangerous.

ever have to bail on a route yet that you couldn't make? what's the standard procedure for that?

Do you bring that cordelette up there in case the rappel stand is damaged ?