Great combination! I'm 61 years old. I gotta say I don't miss breaker point distributors. I think I would convert to a small cap electronic ignition and keep the period correct ignition coil.
Jolly good show! Engine sounds pretty darn good just as it is. Also like the mending job on the shirt sleeve. Looking forward to hearing it purr on the next video.
Great work. I love your attention to details . Love the old small blocks also. I am 69 . First car was a 1955 265 3 speed. I am currently restoring a 1979 C30 pickup , rust repairs at all the usual places . Rockers , floor pans, bed sides, bed floor. I also have my 1964 C10 step side that has the 1969 327 w quadratic that I bored 60 over in 1980. Doing rust repairs as well. My other project is a 1965 C10 long bed step side that I purchased in 1998. I drove it home , removed the 305 that I did not purchase and took it back to the owner. I plan to put a 1968 327 that has been sitting for 42 years in my shop in the 65. Thanks for your videos . Former Marine .
Hey Jay. Good video. I used the same method when I was mating my engine and trans. You got to do what you got to do. She's sounding great Jay. Thanks for sharing.👍👍🍁
I’m very surprised considering that the transmission used is a 9 inch tail shaft TH 350, that a 700 R4 was not used instead. The only reason being that they are nearly exactly the same length. The deeper first gear and the OD fourth gear, as well as the lock up converter can make old trucks a joy to drive on the highway.
Thanks for the enjoyment of that project, I have been following along with my own engine,a'64 Impala numbers match 327 until I learned it has 283 heads 😢, think I saw some double hump s on your shelf 3782461,or 3798996, could you help me out
I believe the ‘63 327 ignition system had an inline ballast resister that cut the voltage to running 8-9 volts. So the points don’t “burnout” during running cycle……. Also for starting, the starter solenoid had a second small terminal that had a hot wire when the key was on start mode. That terminal went to the coil positive for full voltage start mode. That terminal was opposite of the key start wire to the solenoid.
I really enjoy your projects. I’m building a ‘68 250 in Alpine Green w/HIGH TORQUE 250 valve cover sticker for my ‘81 C10. Your 292 series has been helpful in that. However, I’m afraid your videos are making it difficult to find Alpine Green. They’re sold out everywhere I’ve looked!
lol, well judging by a lot of comments the green won't be going on too many small blocks. I have a 250 laying around as well that I want to put in something. Just not sure what yet.
You can't actually get an exactly check one torque wrench against another torque wrench using a bolt because starting friction is greater than running friction. So the bolt you actually torqued with the first torque wrench won't begin to move at the same torque it was tightened to. It may be a small difference but it is a difference.
What size is that Edelbrock carb? I have a 600 CFM Edelbrock and just wondering if it would be compatible with a stock 327 intake manifold or would I need an adapter?
This is a 1406 Edelbrock, which is 600 cfm. I don't point it out on the video but yes, you do need an adapter plate to go to a stock intake. Almost any parts store will have one on the shelf.
It's hard to start an engine at 2000 rpms. I personally get it running, make sure it's going to keep running and that we're oiling the top end, then I worry about the break in. What else can you do? Thanks for watching and for your input!