Transmission draining 101, never open the drain until you know the fill hole is able to be open!!! If you drain the fluid first and can’t open the fill plug, your trans is stuck empty and your out of a ride until you open the bolt.
@@SpeakEzy Most manual gearboxes, T cases, and diffs don't have a dipstick. They usually only have a fill, drain, and vent. I've worked on older Subarus that had a dipstick for the front diff though. Very convenient.
@@SpeakEzy the vehicles with ATF DW-1 most of the time on the v6's or hard to reach one most of the guys in my dealership use a funnel with a piece of hose to fill the transmission lmfao. Some just have the dipstick to fill from.
I just purchased a 2015 Si with 80k this past Thursday. I got FBO upgrades / tuning dancing in my head. Your whole series on this Si is fantastic and very much appreciated!
When doing Transmission, always make sure you can loosen the 'fill' bolt first. you dont wanna empty the transmission and realize the fill bolt is seized.
If it's a spin-on filter, I like Wix. If it's a cartridge filter, I like OEM filters. The OEM cartridge filters have the best designs and o-ring sizes to prevent the oil from draining back and causing longer dry cold starts.
K&N filters are a joke. Mann Hummel is of way higher quality than that K&N. Mobil extended filters are 10x better than the k&n. Yes the spring type OEM Honda filters in the boxes are very good. Even the factory plastic wrapped filters are good. I work at Honda myself.
@@milanmastracci just use the OEM filter, the engine and filter are designed with each other in mind. using different brand filters can affect oil pressure and lower oil flow.
@@milanmastracci in every regard. K&N makes crap. People just fall for the hype. Same as Royal purple. It’s one of the worst oil you could buy, yet people swear by it... use the S2K oil filter. It’s far higher quality and cheaper. Skip the A02, fram makes it. It’s probably better than the filter you’re using currently but still, S2K filter is cheaper and better.
@@milanmastracci have you seen what's inside k&N filters. Watch a video and one that gets cut open you'll understand why and they're not worth spending the money on. You're better off with a factory Honda filter or a mobil 1
Just got my 2015 SI about a year ago with 3k miles (it sat around after first owner bought it). Its almost at 12k now and such a great car! Appreciate the detail you go into for these maintenance items. Hope it helps keep my baby happy as can be along with other regular service. Thanks for the video, instant sub! ✌
That's awesome Braden! Sounds like you got a really good example of the car 🙌 Keep up with the maintenance and it will be a great car for you for plenty of years!
That car gonna last a long time bro. I work for a Honda Dealer those K24 engines are bulletproof for the most part besides timing chain issues if oil ain't changed on time. Besides that, you're golden.
Couldn't agree with you more!! I think these are the last of the good Civic. The 10th and 11th gens are on paper better and maybe nicer to live with, but I think Honda killed it with these 9th gens 💪
@@milanmastracci Yeah, I mark 2015 as the high water mark for newer Hondas. First you can't get repair manuals anymore after 2013 and second, the CVT/DI engines are trading reliability for fuel economy. Honda peaked in 1999, then had come crappy years, peaking again in 2013-15.
On the civic manual transmission, the check hole above the drain plug is not a fill hole. Its a check hole. When you fill from the top and the oil starts to dribble out of that hole, it’s full. It’s a very tiny check hole and a pump hose wouldn’t even fit in it anyway.
@@milanmastracci lol no you’re fine because later in the video you said 17mm it’s just I noticed it at first and I was oh no wrong size lol. Most nissans and Toyota’s are 14mm which is probably why you said that considering your other cars lol
I followed you when you modded your cooper. I had a cooper. Then i traded mine for a civic sport hatchback. Then I found out you got a civic! Back to square one lol
I bought a used Civic 2013 EX with 48km a couple of years ago, its now 63k km and I maintain it by myself as well. Just using Mobil 1 oil and oil filter, rest OEM fluids, standard tools. Good daily driver. Your videos are high quality material, enjoyed watching. Great job! Keep going.
one thing about the max line on the brake fluid reservoir, make sure all the brake pads are new or at full depth. if they are not, next time you push back the caliper pistons, fluid will just overflow.
Your video is amazing !! I just bought a 90k km 2013 civic and want to learn and do all the maintenance work on it, your video is entertaining and educational, i'll watch them all now :)
Milan, this is not a criticism - more like an observation and maybe a correction. Combination wrenches 🔧 have two different ends, commonly referred to as open and box end. You refer to the specific ends correctly in this and other videos. You’re calling the actual tool, however, an open end wrench, but that’s not really correct. I’d refer to these as combination wrenches to be safe and cover every use possible no matter what end is used. New tool users will then not be confused. I’m still learning all the time and you just taught me a new trick I’d never seen before - using a ratchet wrench in the open end of a combination wrench to increase both torque AND distance! Very cool! I’ve known about the other trick using two combo wrenches but this new version is even better! Thanks for all your great work!
These civics are so bullet proof. i own a 2012 with 153K and have only replaced one wheel bearing. That's all That's it. Same battery, I do all my fluid changes myself, because it so easy. I may look into another Honda when i get 400K or more .Not the best riding car, But you can for sure drive your money out of them.
New title: Tools using Tools should have been the title. Disclaimer: Nice new shiny tools can still result in you busting your knuckles. You could have also saved even more dough instead of giving it to Capri like your fluid bleeding tool. You should have bought a Band Aid instead from Capri. Using terms you had to google doesn’t make you any more knowledgeable. Finally, free price of advice for future work u may do on your vehicle. Take your watch off before u end up busting that as well as your knuckles. Maybe you should buy a bunch of those magnets for the oil filter and wrap them around your body for protection next time. Also, for folks who aren’t so well versed in wrenching on vehicles maybe show them how you actually removed the bolt that u busted ur thumb on rather than showing u put a band aid on. Other than that. Entertaining video. Thanks!
Thank God you know how to fix and service your own cars. The dealer is a rip off no matter where you go. Honda has a diagnosing fee which is 145 that they charge for every problem they find. Honda dealership in bronx New York. On zerega Ave. Never go there. Thier parts side is on Tremont don't go there either. Go to New Rochelle Honda. They're not such racketeers.
Hey man, how is the Bando belt holding up? For some reason, it is the cheapest belt on RockAuto, and on HondaPartsNow, it says that the Bando belt is discontinued. Any issues?
My AC/Heat blew out. No air flow coming through vents at any levels. So I removed my glove compartment and found where the resistor was. I was only able to get to the top screw and realized I needed an extender to get to the bottom screw. So I tightened the top one and was going to buy an extender from the auto store but to my surprise before I left I turned the AC on it was working again. And all I did was loosened the top screw and tightened it up again. Any reason how that can suddenly make it work again? The airflow has been an intermittent issue the last few weeks. Can you make a video on how to diagnose no airflow and how to replace the necessary parts? I also read about checking the fuses under the hood in connection to no airflow. Keep up the good work!
Just discovered your channel. I have a 2015 si that I’ve had brand new from the dealership and it’s all stock. I like your method at approaching upgrades. Thank you. I’ll definitely be using your videos for help.
I put 4.2 liters when i changed my oil and it Only comes to the First line on my dipstick, should add more oil or is this How it should he? Anyone know?
Another informative video Milan. I would love to be able to follow in your footsteps and rebuild a car again. My dream car would be any cabriolet with a good supply of parts from OEM or 3rd party. I’ve done four Saabs, but they are now too old to have a good supply of RHD pieces to ensure it will be a good proposition in years to come. Other suggestions? Lloyd
I’ve heard things about it being bad to change transmission fluid at high mileage, or if it’s been a long time, I don’t know how long it’s been from previous owner, but is there anything true about this or is it for ATF? Excellent work man!
To the best of my research, some people offer that advice for automatic transmissions because if it is had too many miles since the last change, replacing the fluid can cause the transmission to start slipping. As the fluid gets old, it gets thicker and wears the clutch packs down faster. Changing to new, thinner fluid can cause slippage
“Carefully crack the upper bolt loose” *proceeds to skin oneself alive via thumb* it happens, next time but use a long breaker because if you know its going to be tight, more leverage is your friend vs more strength. Better safe than sorry
Great video I will say one tip when draining transmissions or differentials always break the fill plug loose first because if you drain it and then are unable to break the fill plug loose you're in some trouble
F*** the Honda dealership, I want to tell everyone not to trust them at all. I made an appointment for my sisters Civic for a brake fluid change. She took it in and when I went to inspect their work all they did was remove fluid from the reservoir and refilled it. No real brake fluid flush was done, it was still black and dirty at the bottom. And for some reason they got grease and oil all over her engine bay. I'll be doing all the work on her car from now on. Thanks for this vid Milan I'll be referring back to it.
Yeah that's terrible to hear! Shady mechanics like that give other mechanics a bad name. I know for fact that I have no one else to blame but myself if my brakes aren't bled properly 😂
Amazing video, very through! (I spelled that wrong didn't I). Only one thing, when bleeding the brakes its wise to put a small amount of grease around the threads of the bleeder nipples. Since you are using a vacuum system you may suck air through the threads :D had that happen to me on my motorcycle. That one had 7 bleeding nipples lmao. Loved the video!
That would be an issue if the bleeder completely encapsulates the nipple and the threads. The little attachment from the Capri bleeder does cover the entire thing. I'll keep that in mind though if I every try another bleeder 👍
Always remove the fill plug first on anything. Always. I have come across gearboxes with fill plugs that were stuck and unremovable but the drains were able to come off easily.
@@kmpaton Yep. I'll never forget the day I was a newbie at the shop and I went to do a diff service. I loosened the drain plug and my coworker said "Hey man, it's always best to take the fill out first. You'll be screwed if it's stuck." I said "Shit, you're right. Thanks for reminding me." What do you know? That fill plug was STUCK. Holy cow I would have been absolutely boned that day. After trying to loosen it, it eventually rounded off because rust rotted it away. Not even a biting extractor socket and heat would get it off. The air hammer and chisel bit was the last resort and it failed too. Had to tighten that fill plug back up and decline the drain and fill service. The cover needed to come off entirely. Technically you can fill a trans, T case, or diff with oil through the vent line if you mess up and drain it first, but that'll take forever and you have to measure it perfectly.
@milanmastracci Could you please include in a reply or in the description how often each part should be serviced? 1) Engine oil/filter 2) Transmission fluid 3)Brake fluid 4) Serpentine belt 5) Air filter 6) Spark Plugs
I have a 2009 civic ex coupe and ever since I got it four years ago it had 90,000 miles on it it has 162,000 miles now when I changed the transmission fluid the first time didn't think I needed to change the filter so it would always shift up or down really hard on third almost like a jolt so I changed the transmission filter and fluid again here recently and it went away now it shifts smooth as well. One thing about these cars though they go through front suspension parts quick. I mean quick I had to rebuild everything from CV axles to struts and control arms ball joints sway bar links you name it it's been replaced
Where did you get the magnetic drain plugs for engine and transmission? Also, what’s the scheduled mileage to change out the brake and clutch fluid? Is it 90,000 miles for both?
Something must be wrong with me - I love doing routine filter/fluid maintenance and once I'm up to date on all of my cars I end up watching people on RU-vid maintain their cars. I've done a million oil changes, yet I still enjoy it. It's like ASMR lol. If you can't afford a power bleeder or have an air compressor, a cheap check valve style bleeder for motorbikes works really well for a one person bleeder/brake flushing tool. Just attach it to the loosened nipple and pump the brakes a few times and top off the reservoir.
What do you think about oem Honda synthetic motor oil and filter? I’ve been using those on my 2015 Civic si from the start and the engine seems to be running fine. No problems so far.
I used fram filter on my nissan sentra. Engine had 391k km when I scrapped it due to age and rust. Engine had 0 issues, never burned oil, and no mechanical parts were ever replaced, not even a water pump. If you change your oil regularly you don’t have to spend more on a filter than on oil. I do 3.5k km on conventional or 5k on synthetic. Oil is cheap, engine is not. Buy oil on sale and use any filter
i have a '10 civic and it came oem with a magnetic drain bolt. I remember my 05 pilot had one too.... and way back when even my 94 accord... honda saved money on the newer civic models i heard - a penny here and there
I also changed my factory power steering fluid with hknda genuine turns great now as well as all the engine mounts the factory are fualty. So be prepared if havent yet. And i change the belt too haha
Oil color does not indicate its health. When in doubt, just change it. If you want to know the actual health of the oil (and the engine for that matter), take a sample and send it out for analysis.
Hey, love the details in your videos! You’ve inspired me to try go full bolt on. I’m about to do a full maintenance for my car but I’ve noticed that the serpentine belt that you provided said it didn’t fit. I have a 2015 Si Coupe
When a person changes any car fluid shouldn't the first thing be opening the fill bolt first not the drain, for if someone drains out the old fluid but cant open where the new fluid goes in he or she now has a 3000lb paper weight?
Yeah I don't refer to that ever. It's there as a decoration for me. There are so many external factors that the maintenance minder cannot see. Oil quality, oil leaks, oil viscosity, how fast the oil warms up, etc.
@@milanmastracci what can I use to know when to do maintenance? Any tips I'm currently at 89k miles..all I've done is oil changes , filter changes. But no fluid replacements or spark plugs yet.. since i just don't know how many miles exactly to do it
@@SantosProd Well it all depends on how you drive the car. If I'm looking after my daily, I will replace my engine oil and filter every 3k 5k km's, transmission fluid & brake fluid every 50k kms, spark plugs & serpentine belt every 80k kms, or whatever you're comfortable with. If you track the car, shorten those intervals, if you're very gentle on it, stick to my recommendations. Feel free to have a look at Honda's recommended service intervals online: www.honda.ca/owners/honda-services/maintenance-calculator
As a 9th gen owner, I appreciate the info and potential money 💰 saving. You just earned another subscriber, all the way from south Florida my bruthaaaaaaaaa
You can daily drive with it, however it is intended to withstand higher heat and load. If you are simply driving from A to B and not ever pushing your car, it will be overkill
Great video there... I have a query. As I know that 300v is a bike engine oil, can I use it in my Civic? Is the car in stock form producing 179bhp at wheels?
Hey Aseem, Motul makes a bunch of different 300V engine oils. As you saw in this video, you can indeed use it for your Civic. Here is a video to the day I had my car on the dyno: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-50BXShJp9oc.html
I prefer to use a BG power bleeder tool. It forces brake fluid from the master cylinder to the brake calipers that way. You don't lose stiffness of the brake from vacuum bleeding, and only need one hand. If deposits are in the master cylinder, you have the potential for damaging the seals by pulling the deposits through the piston and blowing out the seal. Rare, but can happen if brake fluid was not serviced regularly.
