Yeah no problem, someone informed me today that the parts list is no longer accurate. Apoc changed the threading on the trailing arms and I don't yet know what the correct thread pitch is
Apoc is the only brand I saw that have the uppers available. Metal tech is going to manufacture some they told me yesterday. They just need to get a stock upper control arm to get the dimensions of it. I would do a pop but I have metal tech and I want to keep it all metaltech.
I was a Jeep guy first too, owned three CJ7's and rolled two of em. I've calmed down a lot since then though, had the Seq up on three wheels but haven't tipped her over yet 😉
@@treehouseoffroad love the CJ7s, I did something similar to my LJ before moving over to the sequoia haha. More than likely after we move another pre JK jeep will definitely be in the stable.
Bro, that Rig looks GREAT. The bumper is ROBUST and tastefully done. I also noticed you took out the OEM running boards. What a difference the Control Arm makes in articulation.....am very impressed. The last 4,5 minutes gave us a comprehensive look on the performance. My only Gripe, the wheels and tires may be a tad bit too wide such that the wheels can't fully tack in the wheel well without hitting the fenders. The 1st Gen sequoia 4.7l is by FAR the SWEETHEART. It has the power of a LANDCRUISER/LX 470 but doesn't cost anywhere as much. It consume about 16/17mpg roughly with oem wheels just like a 3rd Gen runner but it's much faster, much capable, much powerful, much spacious than a 4RUNNER. The Short wheelbase and narrow stance of a TOYOTA 4RUNNER makes it superior to the SEQUOIA AND LANDCRUISER on off road trails. THATS IT!!! The other mod you might want to do is Rear ARB LOCKER and SWAY BAR Upgrades and you have a homerun. Nice bro
Thanks for your thoughts Malik. Yes the tires are a bit wide to stuff the fender wells completely but it's a trade-off. I love how they look, and having a wider ride feels more stable when cornering. By the time they start to rub, my shocks are pretty much maxed out anyway. If I was looking for short and narrow I def would've gone with a 4runner but I need tall, wide, and long for my family of 6. I still plan to build a 4runner one day, once my kids get a little older. ARB is in the near future, and since this vid I ditched my rear sway bar and made some front link quick-disconnects. Check out my walk around video you'll see what I mean.
Hello. I purchased the apoc industries arms and the Heim joints you recommended however when I received the apoc I found out that they have changed from 7/8 inch to a 1 inch. So now my Heim joints dont fit. I call barnes4wd but they do not have that size. I was gonna ask you for a solution to see if you know a place I can get the joints. thank you
They make Johnny Joints with a one inch thread, I'd go for those. www.rockjock4x4.com/products/johnny-joints-rod-ends/complete-johnny-joints/forged-johnny-joints/1_inch_thread_johnny_joints
I ran into this same issue, did the link for the 1" ones work for you? When I measured the width it came out as 2.365" rather than 2.5" and they seem to be hard to find. Haven't measured the stock location width yet.
I can confirm that the Apoc LCA’s no longer accept 7/8” heims unfortunately. I only wonder if the proper 1” heim will accept the misalignment spacers for the 7/8”? After some short research I don’t think so, but not 100% sure. Will come back and update this comment.
This lower control that you took off didn't look like OEM control arms. Like someone had replaced them before but they aren't adjustable. Mine were way thinner than those they were like the uppers that you took off on yours.
Do you recall what the bolt/nut torque spec is for the upper and lower arms? I just installed the apoc arms too but haven’t been able to find anything online about torque specs and one of my local dealers claims they don’t do this kind of service. Thanks!
When I bought my 4runner it had an aftermarket 4 link with bushings on one end and heims on the other. I started getting really bad rear steer, and found the heims to be blown out. I replaced them with Ballistic Fab joints. A year or so went by and my rear steer came back. I suspected worn bushings, which turned out to be fine. I found that the frame side mount holes for the lower bar had been oblonged so bad that the lower links could move almost 1/2" back and forth. I'm not sure if this was caused by the solid mount of the joint vs factory rubber or not. I keep my links and joints greased and check bolts often. Just a heads up if things start to feel a little loose in the rear when driving. I've repaired the mounts, and next step is to replace the heims on the adj. panhard as they're blown out too and making all kinds of noise.
Real good information man. That thin steel Toyota uses for the control arm brackets can definitely wallow out and cause some slop. So far for me it's been the bushings every time but I'll keep an eye on those holes for sure
hey man, love the build! I am wondering if you have the swaybars connected (front or rear). looks like in the videos you have it hooked up, but just want to confirm, Thanks!
Just installed these and had a couple questions: -Do you know the torque spec for the bolts (upper and lower)? -Did you make your zerks on the Jonny joint inaccessible on purpose? -I did this with my rear end jacked up…are you supposed to do it this way or with it on the ground with the suspension loaded? -The drivers side Jonny joint was turned out a couple turns further than the passenger side which was almost bottomed out. Why is that, and is that a problem? -Do I need to grease the zerks right away? Can I use the same moly grease I use for my UCA's? How do I lubricate the small Barnes heim joints? -Do I need an alignment afterward? Excited to have these in, my old ones were shot! Thanks for the great content.
Damn Bro here we go - Torque specs I don't remember, check the factory service manual - I switched the zerks on the JJ's to 45 degree fittings so I can access them from the top - I don't think it matters as long as it's on the ground when you torque the bolts, mostly pertaining to the factory rubber bushing ends - Hard to say without seeing what's going on, but I would be most concerned that they're the same length - I actually only grease the outer faces of the poly bushings now. I'm going to add an update to the video description explaining why, but yes I use a 5% moly. The JJ's come pre greased, my Apocs came dry - I didn't bother because mine tracked nice and straight
What length did i decide to adjust the arms too. Any length added to keep wheels centered and impact free..i have ur set up for pannier bar connection kit coming also
Would the trailingarms with joints give any benefit if the axle can hit the bumpstop on one side and fully extend the shock on the other? Doesn't seem like theres any more articulation to be had.
The factory bushings flex pretty well but the joints flex easier. Mine were 15 years old and needed to be replaced anyway, so I figured I'd just upgrade them
Amazing how much extra articulation that adds. Besides the issues with the bushings you mentioned, did you run into any other issues with articulation? I feel like the spring would fall out lol
Yes the passenger rear spring did come loose at the top once and shift itself out its home. I could only tell bc the truck was leaning towards the driver side. I knocked it back in place and ran bolts through the rear spring retainers and frame to solve the problem.
I'm running SPC uppers, King 2.5 IFP FRONT COILOVERS @ 3 in, and in the rear DOBINSONS C59-169 LINEAR REAR SPRINGS and Dobinson IMS59-60687 Rear Shocks. And 17 DX4 Nitro -8 offset wheels and can only manage to get 285/70R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers on. What do you think my next move should be. All advice is appreciated. Thx. Want bigger tires and more flex. Thx
Have you watched my build video? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8-KCIEOEEjI.html It's a pretty detailed account of how I did everything
Can you give me the ID of stock upper and lower trailing arm? Want to do something similar, but start with Heims on upper and duroflex on lower welded on stock bars. Kinda in your situation with the pan hard where I don’t want to cut it up but need to know to get the right size tube insert
I haven't cut them open so I don't have that info for you. I'd assume they have the same wall thickness as the panhard bar but making assumptions usually gets me into trouble. Please let us know when you find out!
Mine started squeaking after a while. It turned out to be the heims were dry. I used Dumonde Tech lite formula bicycle chain lubricant on them and they've been silent ever since. The hardest part was identifying where the noise was coming from. I got under the truck while my wife jumped up and down on the rear bumper.
Thanks man it's a great setup for the money. There's companies that sell just the lower arms for over $500. I list the part numbers in the description but it's OME springs & Dobinson shocks. Also ditched the rear sway bar.
I’m having a little issue with my Apoc w/ Johnny joint and making squeaky noise and I greased it. I just want to know are you having the same squeaky noise.
Answered in your previous question. Have somebody rock the truck back and forth while you're under it. You need to find where the sqeak is coming from. My guess is it's not the APOC arms since they're so new
Sadly no, the opposite if anything. The only mod I've done that made a noticeable improvement in highway driving was the eimkeith PCK. thanks for commenting!
I love it! You can't beat having all four wheels stay in contact with the ground over some pretty big obstacles. It's also my daily driver and it handles great on the street, I was expecting a harsher ride. Thanks for watching!
@@TruckMelanoma I haven't had this issue personally but it's been discussed on the FB groups. Here's a link of a member Gabe who made his own spring retainers. imgur.com/gallery/x6kczrd Also if you search spring retainer on TSOR some helpful stuff pops up
Technically they are a Land Cruiser spring, but lots of Toyota stuff is compatible. Aside from it being just a general pain in the ass to install larger springs into the Sequoia, there were no fitment issues no. You need to check out this site. www.1stgenoffroad.com/#/
Good question, I should have measured stock flex. I always forget to do the "before" part of a before & after. I will say that since these don't have rubber bushings they flex a lot easier. No preload. You saw me fighting with the OEM upper arm just to get it to move a tiny bit. My wife has a completely stock '03, I'll take some measurements before we start building it out.
Haha I knew someone would call me out on that one...I have a little girl who needed it to get in. I recently removed it and she struggled at first but she's got it down now.
@@treehouseoffroad well the weather is not cooperating here right now to get a video made to post up but I can tell you a few options that I came up with .. I use a small d ring mount (you can get a 4 pack of them at homedepot for 5 bucks) and I added a Velcro strap (used for carry handles in the same hardware section) screwed it into the plastic cover that goes on the b pillars behind the driver and passenger seats I had it mounted lower when he was smaller and just moved it up higher when it became too low to really help him pull himself into the truck.. a less permanent option would be a carabiner clip hooked to the head rest rail with a paracord rope or a decent lanyard long enough to reach. Hope that helps. I’ll get a video up tomorrow weather permitting.
Hey OB thanks, it's a Coastal Offroad weld-it-yourself kit. They just came out with a rear bumper that I'm building now. I recommend them highly! www.coastaloffroad.com/product-page/1st-gen-toyota-sequoia-high-clearance-front-bumper/
