Your first milling cut reminds me of my first! It gets a lot easier the more you use the mill and learn how to use it. I've got a 661 and an 881 for milling, but I've been thinking about getting one of the g660s to keep from putting too much strain on my 661, which is my main felling saw.
I just posted a reply to justagearhead that I agree with his comment. Seeing the mistakes bring forth something we as beginners might actually come across and now have that information on how to adjust for it. Thanks for that helpful information.
I have the same saw and mill setup as you do. I too was amazed at the fuel consumption of the saw. I have to refuel after every 6-8 foot cut or I will run out on the next cut. The logs I’m milling are oak with most over 24” .
@dogwoodspringsoutdoors Hey Jim. I was looking into buying this mill and stumbled upon your video. Ironically, I also just bought a small piece of land in your location! I just purchased an electric Oregon self sharpening chainsaw which comes with an 18” bar that I’d be using. I’ve seen some people use different chains and extra small bars and the end result looks akin to a bandsaw, very nice. I’ve also wanted this rig for a long time and I’m excited to get started. I’m in poor finances and also health problems, so I’m trying to do everything as cheap as possible. I’d be so happy if I could just acquire enough lumber to build a big deck for a pacific dome I’m thinking to erect on the property. Thank you for the video Jim and I’m glad to hear your health has Improved and I hope you are enjoying your new mill and it’s working out great for ya. Take care and thanks again.
I always learned keep the rails infront of the dogs against the wood. Dont back up really at all. But dont let it come up off the rails either. Whay I mean is left hand on the saw trigger and force the saw right. Push the saw only a little with left hand, mostly use right hand to push mill. Also the winch is really used at the end of the log pulling the saw toward you. Put a string holding the trigger on full throttle. You do have to rig up some bullies so a winch pulls from both sides of the mill. Ah, and toward the end you discuss the correction.
I'm buying the same saw to do some Alaskan milling some day. Did u have it tuned by a professional or yourself? The guy I'm buying it off of is gonna tune it to 12,500- 12,700 rpms. Did u put a ripping chain on it because that can have effect on the smoothness of your cut from what I've seen on vids from other guys doing this.
I haven’t adjusted the tuning any from factory. That was not a ripping chain in that video but full chisel if I remember correctly. Definitely think the chain affects the smoothness of the cut though. I’ve used both. Some guys swear by the ripping chain, and some say it’s better without it. I just think everyone should experiment with different chains and use what you like best. I’ll try to do a comparison on the same log with different chains. Thanks for watching and commenting, and good luck with your new one!
Not sure what you are using for chain, but if it’s ripping chain don’t even bother . If you sharpen your own chain just use cross cut chain at 10 deg or 15 deg. I grind mine at 10 deg on 3/8 chain and keep my chain hungry so rakers at 25” max . Some guys use 0 deg but they have 881 or 880 and 3120. You caught the bug you are hooked 😬😬👍👍. Seriously don’t waste your money on ripping chain.
The winch will mess your cuts up every time. Get a feel for a good steady cut speed by hand and you'll see great strides in cut quality. As for the flooded cylinder, air got into the fuel system. If it becomes a regular issue check fuel lines. Even an almost unnoticeable pin hole will do that. If fuel line's are good then the boot between the carb and cylinder head is a good prospect for the problem.
The rip chains make all the difference and with the right filing can produce a very nice smooth finish. I just ordered the G660 and a 36bar. I make my own rip chains.
