What the ocean is showing is specifically power going into the battery. This means that you have to account for transmission losses on both the AC and DC side, the losses from the AC-to-DC conversion and any power the car is using for on board systems, including the high-to-low voltage DC-to-DC converter. Typically AC-to-DC conversion is typically about 85-93% efficient, with the more efficient converters being more expensive (GaN based). Though, they can be as low as 75% with some of the older bridge rectifier systems, but I'm assuming that's not what's used here. So, if we assume the AC-to-DC converter is taking in the full 7680W from the connector, that's likely in the neighborhood of 750W-1,150W of power off the top due to conversion losses. Transmission losses should be very small, probably negligible. However, while charging, the car is basically on (I.E. the door always unlocks on the first press when charging), which appears to be a few hundred watts of power (including the HV-to-LV DC conversion), ~200W is my guess. Sometimes is either heating the battery or charging the 12V. I've seen each of these reduce my effective charging rate by 200-300W. For me, this is going from 700-900W on my L1 12A charger down to 400-500W. Typically the heating/12v charging only lasts 5-30 minutes, depending on the starting state. It's important to remember that the amperage limit is at the outlet/wired connection in the house, not in the car. So any losses after that point have to be taken from the effective charge rate.
@@Ocean1_FSR I agree that Fisker could actually be limiting it to ~30A or so, but this math works too. 240V x 32A = 7680W 7680W x 0.85 = 6528W Take away a few hundred watts for the car and you're at ~6300W, take away a few hundred more to charge the 12V or heat the HV battery and you're at ~6KW So, either a lower efficiency AC-to-DC converter, or a SW limit by Fisker. Or maybe a bit of both.
So similar for my Fisker being under but anywhere and how I charge AC max can get to 6.9. My home charger I mostly use states the car is pulling 29a. I have another EV which gets up to 8.49 pulling 35a on same home charger. With the larger battery I do wish the Fisker charged slightly faster since it takes a long time to charge to 80% if you are under 20% and could certainly gain an hour for an extra 1kwh.
FYI, I finally to my Tesla universal wall connector installed, and the car appears to only be asking for 7KW, ~29A. I compared the power from the charger (tesla app) to the power into the battery (Ocean screen) and it appears that the onboard charger is about 94% efficient, and the car is chewing up about 280W of power while charging. In addition to this, the car can use more power to either charger the 12V battery or warm up the HV battery.
My understanding is there are some charging loss thru heat resistance, therefore you will not get the true rate. Also you may not be getting the full 240v from your utility. Check it with voltage meter this too will lower your Kw. My utility sends me 230v and fluctuations on grid usage determines your voltage.
Solid review! Have you, or anyone who has reached out to you, ever had little/no success with free public L2 chargers- like the ones you see in hotels, hospitals and some shopping centers? My car will not handshake with them, but as soon as there is a credit card swipe terminal, it falls in love. So frustrating, especially since many of the hotels i stay at for work have been installing🙄
Thank you. This is really helpful in understanding Amps vs Watts vs Volts. I was wondering if you could help answer a few related questions here: 1) I own the Wallbox. I chose it because it was branded with Fisker and thought it was the safest bet for compatibility since the Ocean is my first EV. However, I can only charge the vehicle through the app. Any idea why? Note: It is connected to the WiFi so I can remote charge. I'm running on 2.0 (1/2). 2) Any thoughts on why my plug doesn't lock in place? Meaning, I can take it out of the vehicle's charging port at any point, even in mid-charge. I've never understood why this is possible. Curious if other Wallbox / Fisker Ocean owners experience this as well. 3) Does setting the vehicle at a lower amperage help maximize battery performance in the long term (regardless of longer charging times)? *Update: I have reached 6.8 kWh - at least that's what it's shown on my Wallbox app.
1) Since I haven't personally used the Wall Box, I can only guess that this is a setting that was chosen thru the APP when setting it up. 2) No idea why the plug doesn't lock. 3) Setting a lower amperage won't affect or protect anything as the Ocean can literally charge at almost 200KW!! 4) Have you seen 6.8 INSIDE the car on the screen?
Thanks for the reply. 4) I haven’t seen 6.8 kW on the onboard screen, just over the Wallbox app. I typically charge it remotely but I will note the onscreen number next time I’m with the vehicle and let you know. I recently had a tech visit to update me to 2.0 (1/2). Since then the Wallbox app shows it charging slowly at around 1.8 kWh average (was showing 6.8 previously). I reached out to him and he told me to update my amp setting inside the vehicle - assuming it’s now set to 8 amps. I had already left town so I didn’t check to confirm this setting beforehand . Again, I’ll check when I return and hopefully OTA update to 2.0 (2/2). I’m also in a remote area with poor cell service.
I have the fisker wallbox charger. It charges at 6.9 kWh consistently. Most nights tho, I keep it down at 2 kWh. Trickling vs full 32A charging hasn't resulted in much difference in performance, but the majority of what I read says that ions pack better when flowing in slower. Who knows... Battery tech still really bad
@@jeffreymills4307 That would depend on a couple factors. 1) Do you have a 15 amp or 20 amp outlet? 2) Has the outlet been upgraded to handle the constant rate of current? 3) If upgraded (not a cheap everyday outlet) the 15 amps on a 20 amp outlet is fine or 10-12 amps on a 15 amp outlet is fine. If the outlet is just your every day outlet back those off and go with say 8 amps on a 12 amp outlet until changed.
@@Ocean1_FSR I had the outlet replaced in January. It's a brand new outlet with test buttons and a little light. I can't have a level 2 charger because my electrical box is old.
I've been keeping it set to 32 no matter whether I'm using my level 1 at home, at a dc fast charger or an electrify america charger...not sure if that's ok
Check your power with a meter, are you really getting 240, or is it closer to 220? If it's 220 (or 2x 110) that's closer to 7000w. The charging circuit takes 300-400w itself so there's some loss there. If your voltage is 220, you should be maxing out at ~6.5.
´I don't know, although we are also in a much different price point as well. Greater charging rates means greater costs’ Mitch Henke , Dir. , energy and charging
