Fix Any Bushing for ONLY $30!? 

me too, I had this in mind, I was thinking of silicone but thanks God I found this video and I'm doing it as soon as tomorrow, thanks for this video

How has it held up for you?

damn, alot of india is made in rubber. Good to know india rubber is bad.

@@salami99 Motor mount rubber is likely man-made, not natural rubber. Indian and Chinese companies can make quality parts. Indeed, they will have to begin doing better if they don't want to continue being tagged as "questionable quality". Japanese products were considered of poor quality in the early 1960's, but they turned that image around by companies like Toyota and Honda selling excellent products, such as the early 1970's motorcycles which were much more reliable than H-D, and bicycles of equal quality to Italian and French (and especially the heavy U.S. ones) which filled the 1970's "ten-speed" demand.

Yes I plan on doing that with my control arm bushings

Even if You put a threaded screw down the tip right size and length it will cure and harden past it?

How long does it take to cure?

@Herb Goldstein Depends on the type of urethane, temperature, humidity, and thickness of the urethane being applied. Higher temperatures and humidity speed up cure times (I know the humidity thing seems counter-intuitive). For example, I once cut out a windshield from a new car that was damaged in shipment, and the urethane wasn't cured in the 3 days since it was manufactured. It was winter in a cold climate. It's probably best to consult the urethane company/website. They often have a table of conditions and cure times. Back then safe 'drive times' were about an hour in good conditions despite not being fully cured. I hope some of that helps

As an ex glazier and aluminium joiner? You are 100 percent spot on 👍

They work mint!

Do I have to let my car sit for 24 hours for it to cure? I'm about to try it but I'll drive with the polyurethane wet in hopes it shouldn't bother

​@@alexlong3023yes let it completely dry before use

He hasn't replied. Have you tried it?

@@nataliegrn17someone else on here did it on his outback and if you read the comments on that video the guy said it lasted a long time, however i read that it causes more vibrations

Did u end up trying it out? How did it come out? Has it still held up?

​@@selwyn13 i believe it ended up being a tierod and strut tower/shock problem (2002 civic ex). it had all the classic symptoms of a bad motor/trans mount/ball joint, and none of the symptoms of failing socks/tie rod. i think i finally figured it out because going over bumps above ~45mph while in a shallow turn to one way minimized/got rid of the vibrations. i think it was a combination of an oval'ed ball joint on the tierod and bad struts with normal shocks. really bizzar. finally broke down and did the job right after the front left engine mount bolt broke on my car and the engine fell. a few months before the hard to get bracket for the same mount had snapped in half (manual trans part that doesnt have a part number and is very difficult to source). i had replaced the mount already with the bracket but the vibrations were just causing too much problems. that bracket is supposted to have 2 motor mount bolts but 1 of them had broken the engine mounting bracket around the threads and there was no way to replace it without doing the timing belt, which I was waiting to do. good old car, drove it from 280k miles to 380k. tried to teach my girlfriend how to drive stick thinking i had gotten the car reliable enough and she grenaded the transmission after like 4 attempts to shift. guessing the synchros were going? i took the whole trans appart and found the clutch fork had actually snapped one of its teeth and was slipping off the thrust bearing and not disengaging the clutch. got everything back togeather and could not get the clutch to pressurized. replaced the slave and master, bled it like crazy day after day. replaced the slave again and master again, broke a lot of sized bolts off and it still wasnt even pressurizing. guessing there was a leak somewhere in the old line from moving it so much/vibrations. had lost so much time (in med school) i finally just threw money at the problem and bought a an old 2013 chevy volt. idk im so far behind in medshcool im getting to the point where i might get held back a year (-280k$) /kicked out so i just ran out of time to fix it. i think ill limp it to a field and turn it into swiss cheese. idk maybe its worth some money, just really unsafe to drive now with all my shotty repairs. i had modified it to the point where it was getting 45-50 mpg lol. not sure you wanted all this info. just replace the parts the right way homie unless its a trans mount or something and youre 100% sure it will attempt to fix it.

@@vevenaneathna Damn. Well coodos to u 4 even having the motivation to do that much. I know my anxiety would've made me crack under pressure a long time ago.

ya i got it all fixed and then tried teaching my gf how to drive stick and she fubarded the clutch/fork lever@@selwyn13 took the trans apart and put a new fork and throw bearing in there. must of broken a clutch fluid line somewhere in there coz i couldnt get the clutch to repressurize. with how poorly of a job i did, im just going to donate the car next year. pains me to do, just ran out of time to keep trying to fix it.

Did it work with the liquid nails?

@@julianroccopesa3491 it would appear that he's dead. 😔

Still Going Strong!

I'm interested to know how it turned out on your vehicle.

Howd it work out

Lol it didnt work out.it only will work usually on tranny and motor mount type bushings because of the access to the bushing you have and it doesnt have much movent and pressure on those mounts like an a arm bushing would have.but it depends on the circumstance. If you prep the metal good that its gona stick to and clean the rubber thats left so the polyurathane will adhere good which most the time is impossible to do good enough with such tight areas and since there is heavy road filth under the car.And with aluminum you have to clean the metal real real good because of oxidation layer that will not allow adhesion

Its also very unwise to try and mickey mouse fix a suspension item which more then likely will endanger yourself and every one else on the road.motor mounts and tranny mounts wont kill you if they fail suddenly. Suspension is an entirely different matter as far as the forces involved in all direction compared to motormounts.if you took the a arms off and prepped tHm good it mite work just fine.

@@conniestevenson226 I haven't seen a control arm design where if the rubber bushing totally fails, the metal parts come detach. Instead, the control arm pivots are still captured in the hole but rattle around. You can still drive the car but the tires may quickly wear due to incorrect toe-in, and the parts are then too squirrelly to set and maintain proper toe-in.

How'd it go?

Did it work for you?

@billusry8902 no did not work . Took long time to dry and after driving it failed apart.. had to buy a whole new arm

Maybe because it already failed. I wonder if this is used as a preventive, if it would be good? What do you think?

@@nataliegrn17 yeah as I a preventive might work better but not as a full failure..

Thinking of doing the same , did it work?

Any update?

Any updates from the field? :)

@@nataliegrn17 as a lifelong and career tech, its highly recommended, for CERTAIN cases. If you can remove the component and replace the bushing the proper way. That is always advisable. This stuff will be a pain in the rear to remove down the road if you plan on fixing it the right way later on. However, there are some cases, like older, or heavily rusted cars, that trying to remove the subframe, can total the car. Broken bolts inside unibody rails and such.. on a "400k mile car" is just not economical to deal with for a suspension noise that does not make the car undrivable.. There are those cars that still want to keep going, just need that extra push for their last stretch before meeting the scrap yard. Those are the cars this is best for. Or for people who are too broke to fix it right. This can save a car from the scrapper for those people.. and for an extended period of time at that.

​@@crisnmaryfam7344thanks for sharing your thoughts, suggestions, and experience!

Would it be ok use something like wax paper to keep it from touching the metal. Allowing ez removal when fixing the right way down the line. Makes sense to me

I think it was more the 300,000 miles on the stock bushing! But agree, always fix oil leaking first!

You might want to keep your mouth shut while pretending to be the smartest in the room.

What about Simple Green?

@@selwyn13 That works. Honestly, we could be using soap. The sprays just increase convenience/productivity.

@@selwyn13However, that one commenter pointed out a strong solvent like brake cleaner might be necessary to make the product penetrate the rubber more. Might be something to try and not try on 2 sides.

Rtv is going to be shore hardness of about 30; window weld is mid 50s But agreed anything’s better than worn out and RTV is cheaper.

@@millertimebmw I went with thr rtv to be a lot more soft, id hate to break axles with too much stiffness lol

@@LukeWaters powerflex polyurethane bushings can be a hardness rating of 80 to 90. So 50 is medium firmness. And 30 would be considered soft

My engine mount is directly under cat converter (like 10cm below). Since polyurethane isn’t heat resistant, is it gonna catch fire or melt? Thanks

@LukeWaters what type of bushings did you try with RTV? And how long did it last? Which color RTV? Gray?

also thinking of trying on rear subframe mounting bushings. Howd it go? (F01 7 series)

@@malaslittleworld I didn't go through with it, was trying to turn brand new oem sub bushings into solid, but went with poly in the end.

​@@jamescollins5073what kind of poly?

Still going Strong!

Same, going strong

Nice to hear ​@@millertimebmw

How long did it take to dry up??

@@kimlong13 I left it overnight before fitting it back on the car

@@dexietyy7922, thank you!!👍

No, the silicone win't harder as rigid. This window weld is almost a flexible but hard plastic.

Great question. Have you tried it?

@@nataliegrn17 No I havent. I do have some old beater cars that I have considered doing it on. I mean seems like it could be a life saver on some of these that are practically metal on metal. seems like you would have to do the bottoms with the car on the ground then the tops with it lifted.

That or you can torch the old rubber out, wire brush /wire wheel it clean, then inject some poly to make your own polyurethane upgraded bushings. Keep in mind if you do this to engine mounts and such, you may notice some addition "NVH" because it IS stiffer than the factory rubber.

@@crisnmaryfam7344 Interesting! thats a great idea too!

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Funny how gravity is so selective. Strong enough to keep your car on the road. Too weak for a helium 🎈 🙄

Has it strengthened them? Caused problems?

@@nataliegrn17 yes, It works Great

@@BodyWeakDotNet thanks! That's true for rubber and Polyurethane bushing? Or just rubber?

@@nataliegrn17 if you have polyurethane bushings already..why would you need 3M?? The 3M works like a polyurethane bushing just alil softer....

How high of temperatures do think these bushings are seeing? High temps are not a concern unless maybe you are hammering the car hard on the track....even then I doubt it. Even then polyurethane is exactly what higher quality race bushings are typically made of anyway.

Also what about removing the weld later on if the bushing needs to be replaced?

It has held up well for some time, I will make sure to keep updating. The window weld is still mostly only inside the bushing. Replacement is just as easy as without the window weld!

How long did it take to be able to drive on it?

@@millertimebmw please gives us update for me this is temporary repair:)

@@aleksaleks7977 All repairs are temporary good sir.

I waited one day, (24 hours). still strong!

Yeah, he said it was vibrating beforehand.

He answered two months ago, that still going strong

24-hours is what I waited. its still going strong!

There are many naysayers, but especially for this particular bushing, it’s a home run! Still going great! (Especially considering the bushing is a $300-400 so bill to replace)

Still going today!

Excessive wear is not something you'll notice form this. However, you will notice some addition NVH over a stock bushing because of what you mentioned. It is a stiffer product than factory OEM parts for NVH reasons.

to this day!

interesting, but did you have to reapply the 3m at some point

Heat gun

Two months to dry?

Still going well, The car doesnt have MASSIVE power.

Up to what kind of power would this work well for?

You're right, since lots of people will be able to see the black goo underneath the car. Out of sight, out of mind. Can't believe I didn't think of this geniousness sooner

Pe r fect doesn't perfectly bloody exist ole chap, exist on paper and in your OWN hands...Try praying a better prayer, ~Jesus Christ

If you can't replace the bushing with a new one, and, the bushing is open on both sides. This has worked well for many other people.