Really appreciate it Jon, followed this to a T and it worked flawlessly. I have a brand new MY and skipped the step of degreasing since it’s sparkly clean already.
My 2018 LR RWD was doing this on the drivers side, service fixed it for a day. It was getting worse recently, so I scheduled another service, I saw your video and decided to give it a try, the click is now gone, I cancelled the service, saved me a trip, thanks!
Tesla Service Center fixed this for me today on my new '22 Model 3 with only 1,500 miles. I mentioned possible loose axle nut in my service appointment request, and sure enough it was the issue. Thank you!
Buddy thanks for the video as I had this issue when my car was @ 49k miles and now @ 55k and noise has returned occasionally. This will definitely save me the expense and the pain of taking it in! Thanks again and subscribing to your channel!
This video is so informative. My 2019 M3 is going in for service for the first time next week for this exact issue. If this issue keeps coming back, I would definitely use your method (Tesla service center is 1+hr away)
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I was planning to just retorque until I saw this. The old lubricant was caked and came out in chunks. Nice and quiet again.
I have a 2020 model three. Mine does not have this particular problem. It is interesting to see your solution to this issue. I’m curious to see how long this will resolve the issue. Thank you for the time and effort to do these videos. Stay safe, stay healthy.
hey Guys, Tesla has a procedure for the correct way to fix this. You're supposed to use Molykote m77, and it does NOT go on the splines. There should be no grease at all on the splines. The grease goes on the flat face of the CV joint which comes into contact with the hub. Grease should be applied from behind the hub after the axle is pushed out, and the correct tool to use is a hub puller, not a hammer and brass drift! You can borrow the hub puller for free from any auto parts store. Also- torque spec is 220 ft lbs, not 180
@@cottsak This is a common problem. The nut was not tightened to the specific torque at the factory. If the car owner does not immediately go to the Tesla service center, the axle splines will wear out, and the shaft will have to be replaced. Ask for this service to be carried out under warranty.
It was solved in the same way through the video a while ago. Even if I hit the shaft shaft with a hammer, it didn't go in as easily as the video, but after retracting to some extent, I reassembled it through cleaning and Guris, and the noise disappeared. thank you 🙏🏻
Thanks. I’m out of warranty so this will save me a ton. Initially Tesla said it was something with the brakes that needed to be cleaned but obviously that wasn’t the case.
Awesome! So many people with early 3's have had this issue including myself! Tesla replaced both my half shafts under warranty, but it's awesome to see a DIY solution. Thanks for posting
@@Lilbittagas started hearing it a few weeks ago, and found myself here talking to you, so far. I've got a mechanic friend who might be able to help me do this fix. I also wonder if it's worth putting in a service request for the estimate too. Perhaps they'll see value in fixing it under "good will" for me. Is it a safety issue?
I don’t remember subscribing but I’m glad past me did cause this is exactly what I had been looking for! I have the same issue since like a year ago and Tesla Service told me it’s normal. Now I can tell them how to fix it. I just hope they’ll be as thorough as you doing this procedure.
If you put your car in low regen it doesn’t do it. The reason it happens, it’s because you’re constantly going forward and then when letting off the gas it turns it the other way. And this happens hundreds of times over a few weeks and loosening the nut
Thank you. This is great. I had this problem and Tesla did some work on it under warranty and then it returned.. Tesla did the same thing. Now I can do this myself!
2020 m3sr+ about 41k miles. The click was on the driver's rear side. Followed the instructions for both left and right rear axels.The click is gone. Thank you.
So true. I’ve been a major Tesla fan for years, but on the verge of recommending to stay away from Tesla because of expensive repairs to quality issues
My Modes S had this repair done years ago under warranty. Now that I have 103k miles, it's come back. Was going to make an appt till I saw this! Hope it works for me also!
Thanks, Jon! This worked for me. It's only been one day, but will see how long the fix lasts. I had tried to bring this in to Tesla, out of warranty, paying out of pocket, but they refused to even look at it since I had aftermarket suspension. Ridiculous! Almost all my prior vehicles (non-Tesla) have been tastefully modified, and I never had issues with the dealers, even for warranty work. Also, after pounding the axel spline in, mine was never loose enough to push in so freely like in your video where it pops back out. How come?
For everyone contemplating doing this, I just want it to be known my experience, 2020 Model Y all I did was (with the car on the ground and the wheel still on) 32mm 6 point socket for the axel nut, breaker bar to remove the nut put some WD40 on it and put it back on (I didn’t use a torque wrench I probably over torqued the hell out of it) but it is not clicking at all any more. Maybe worth just taking the nut off for a sec and torquing it back to spec before trying the moly paste
Just started to notice this clicking in my 2018 Model S. Tesla recently replaced my shafts and it’s possible the nuts were not torqued down. I will try that first otherwise will lube them up.
its just rust in the spine cause binding.. i usually use wd40 and air blow to clean out all the gunk, all good. this happens to all cars not just tesla. manual lube does not reach all the way inside spline where usually rust build up.
maybee we can use piece of valve ajustement tool, to keep the shaft in drive position (put the piece of valve ajustement tool between teeth of shaft and hub and cancel the clearance) the piece of valve ajustement tool will be crushed only in regenation but i don't know how much clearance there is between teeth ... sorry for my way of speacking, i am french ;)
This video is 2 years old.. i have a 2023 .. so it probably doesn't apply to 2023 but tesla being a tesla, im sure there are other issues with newer models.. but you haven,t done any youtube video since this one…. And something about your video style is that you fix things with precision and you don't seem to rush the job.. and i say, you should keep doing more videos.. you quit too soon
I had a similar issue with my driver side wheel. Followed instructions in this video and it the noise went away...for a few weeks. Now its back. After redoing everything in this video, the noise still is there. Wondering if theres another issue.
Hi , I have the same noise at the front left and right, do you think I can apply the same method to get the axle in to lubricate it or do I need a hub extractor?
Very ingenious way to clean and lube the axle splines. I had this problem on my 2003 Nissan 350Z years ago and took apart the suspension completely apart to pull the axle out of the back of the hub. I'm having this issue with my 2020 Model 3 Performance and will use your method. Jon Osborne was this issue only on the rear axles?
It was only rear on my car, but that's because it's only RWD. I suppose it could happen on front, but the rear axles sees much higher torque than front on dual motor cars.
I’m suspecting the axle nut is coming from the Tesla factory under torqued. Most of the Toyota’s I’ve worked on with 32mm axle nuts are torqued at 217 ft-lbs - those are just the low powered V6 camrys and siennas. Lol
I have done this fix 3 times now. The issue goes away for a week but then comes back. Many people on forums have also posted that they took the car to Tesla and they did the same fix but it comes right back. Till now still looking for a long term solution
After having the sound return, I repeated the process, but I didn't bother cleaning out the old lubricant and just packed as much additional lubricant in as I could. That fix lasted longer than the first go.
I had mine fixed and then it came back after two weeks. I went back in and they did the same job, but it made the noise a few miles later. I wonder whats the point of fixing it and the long term issues.
Hey Jon, Do you think Tesla will cover this under warranty? 4 year 50k? I scheduled the service because Im still under warranty. The repair estimate is $210. I can do this without an issue. But if warranty covers it, I'd rather have proof Tesla worked on an issue. You never know if theres a deeper issue in the AXLE itself.
Even when the bolt is tight, there is a very small amount of play in the splined connection, which is where the click comes from. The lubricant fills in any gaps to eliminate this play.
I did that on my S, however after half a year the problem is back, wondering if you got it back as well, maybe I need other lubricant like more dense one etc.
The first time I did this, the noise came back after a month or so. The next time I made sure to get more lubricant on the splines, and so far it's lasted longer.
@@Nitro187 The fix has lasted since the 2nd application of lubricant I mentioned in the previous comment, which as probably been about a year, although not too many miles driven in that time. My recommendation would be to clean before the first time you add lubricant, and if the noise returns, don't bother cleaning again, but just add as much additional lubricant as you can.
@@rdtc2854 Tesla fixed mine and it hasn't returned.... I'm just mentally preparing for when it's out of warranty in the off chance it returns. :) thanks foe the video!
SOLUTION HERE: I've had this problem!! Nissan has had this problems aswell!! You need a special lubricate to fix this problem it's called CHEMPLEX 50S u can get it at Nissan (ask a mechanic if he has some left over) this what u do don't take off the wheel remove axle nut hit the axle back until is lose and put a lot of the lubricant try ur best to jam it in there then use a tool to push the axle back and forth do it about 7 times to then re tighten it... I've done it haven't had a problem since!! Part#44003-1z610pp
they asked me the same too… but on principle I didn't want to do it since according to them there are no problems but only a noise. they should do it under warranty
2013 MS: SC @ Tesla got me for $270 for this. 2 days without my car. 2 Uber rides. I gave Les Schwab the chance they had no clue. Very soon local mechanics are going to take your customers and all the legacy car manufacturers are going to sell EV’s for half your price
I am having this issue on a brand new Model Y at around 500 miles. Went to the shop to grease the axles. Didn't fix it. They lubricated all four Half Shafts on each wheel. Did not fix it. They changed the rear subframe, did not fix it. Now it's gone into shop for #4 time on the same issue and they are trying once more to lubricate the axle splines. This does not just seem to be a Tesla problem. There are other videos out there, stating the cause to be a fitting issue, and actually advising against using any type of lubricant within the hub spline assembly. Why is Tesla (even from their repair centers) conducting this as a repair? Doesn't that just kick the can down the road, and we potentially have more problems later?
car has been in service 3 times now and they have not fixed the clicking sound. Was supposed to pick it up today, but they pushed pickup back another 4 days.
@@ILikeGuns24 keep us updated how many attempts it takes and if they are able to fix it eventually. Will do the same. My car was also supposed to come out from repair yesterday and did not happen. Assuming it takes them longer.
@@ILikeGuns24 what exactly was the diagnose ? mine has been having this issue since 300 miles and now it is 1600. first visit did not solve and the lubricated some mechanism behind the mirror ( wth？）the sending it in for the second time in about a week …
That rotor retention screw is not right… it cannot sit proud above the rotor / wheel mating surface. The way it is now will cause vibrations because the wheel cannot achieve perpendicularity with the axle rotational plane.
There's hollow spacing in between the lug holes on Tesla factory wheels on the inside surface mating against the hub. A lot of aftermarket wheels are like this as well, so the wheel does indeed mate perfectly flush against the hub even with the rotor screw there. Look at the markings on the hub and you can easily see where the wheel mates to it.
