Nice vid bro. Thanks for the info. I had these same problems with my new build tinywhoop. I gave up on the issues which i could not diagnose the problem. Now i will try again. 🤔😅
aaww Thanks bruh!! YEAH!! I hope the video helps man!! This hobby is great to a certain extent.. always forcing us to do troubleshooting and finding different ways to find a solution. Good luck with the troubleshooting!!!!
on my meteor75 pro one motor frequently stutters when starting, then I hear the ESC reboot. I suspect the motor connector has poor contact. interesting how it only happens on start up but when flying motors always work.
YEESS!! Thats one of the weird things that happens. It maybe due to the "flyaway protection" even, which is a Betaflight feature. But you'd need to troubleshoot that issue.
Ive gone through 3 different meteor75 pros because of this issue. Never definitively found out why. I switch motors and the problem is still there. Then when i check Bluejay, the minimum startup power is already maxed out. Best solution i found is not using a betaFPV drone.
in my case, most of the time the problem is the motor connector. Since then i prefer to cut the connector and solder directly into the board. Much lower wire resistance and reduce weight
Yes, that is very good educational content! In the past I threw FCs away because I thoght its the FC. I think many times it was really the motor. And that startup settings for Blujay is also very important. Thanks fot that content!
haha yeah, I had a few guys asking me that so one of the reasons I decided to make this video! Thanks for always dropping in bruddah. Really appreciate it my man!!
hahah an awesome philosophic question bruh! I'd say.. "there's always a flaw in everything, just how best we deal with them to the point we ourselves are personally satisfied."
HAHAHAHAHAHAH dammit!!1. Thought i could get away with it!!! ROFL Yeah, I had it cleaned after I watched the video.(didnt realize it at the time!) thanks my bro!!!
finger placement when working or fidgeting with these micros is a big factor for me. sometimes i inadvertently place a finger upon something and apply pressure when working on them. seems its on motor wires or the motor itself lots of the time. 🤦🏽♂️ edit: on a side note about the esc adjustments, might want to take it like up slowly and check how it responds. straight to 1100 may cause some unintended consequences. 🤷🏽♂️
Yup happened to me with a motor wire too! ROFL. Oh, for this tiny whoop its straight up 1105. No questions asked. I might have forgotten to mention about that specific FC as I use the Happymodel ones(what else! LOL). But thanks for the reminder bruh! I'll remember that for future vids!!!
Also a good thing to check too is the staterboard at the motor base. Sometimes when we twist the wires, the coating will get pulled away at the base and will expose motor wires. I saved so many boards and motors figuring that one out.
YEEEESSSSS!!! Man, I forgot to mention that one! Thankfully, the newer motors has PCB built in them so wires can always be resoldered back unlike the older models where once the wires break... thats it!!!
@@shogunemperorpcb can be a lot of headaches too. For some reason the magnet wire kept snapping at the joint upon crashing the whoop. And manufacturer makes the copper wire length so tight that it’s now not long enough to reach the solder pads. These are from happymodel.
@@user-yk1cw8im4h thats true! For me, I'd heatshrink the PCB part with a tiny heatshrink to protect the joints. Works well so far. What motors are u using? Yeah, the Happymodel ones are wound tight. So far I'm still using the same motors. They either last very long or get destroyed when i crash. But they're the most reliable for me.
Thanks for making this video. This is one of the trickiest most annoying issues i’ve ran into. A 1002 motor starting to twitch after 2 weeks of daily flying and having to replace the motor. It just makes me frustrated as i know deep down the motor isn’t broken at all and should last 6 months at best of extensive flying. I feel like the smoother the motor feels to spin with the hand, the longer it will last. I hope they will find a way to make these motors more durable. I’m definitely going to try some of the things you showed when i get another twitchy motor.
Hey thanks bruh! Its my pleasure! I do these vids so that u guys dont go through the pains I did! hahahaa yeah, generally they should be able to last, just that sometimes weird things happen and they just stop functioning! Good luck with the troubleshooting! Hope it helps!!!
1002 motors are low quality at leas the sub250 ones used on there small drones, went thought 4 in 1 day flighing about 75 packs, all good then they start occasionally twitching even with max startup power then they refuse to spin at all. At this point I just keep a stash of spares and replace every 20 packs, so the average life of one is 1hr of flight time, longest ive had last for me is about 3hrs of flight time
@@Catboy-hr2qp agreed!!! One of the aspects that they had to look into was affordability. 75 packs is hardcore bruh! Race training? Nice! Yeah, I have a few I had to replace too.. but so far so good for now.
I gave up on my two o3 whoops, even the tmotor fc I bought the other time we flew at hpv together. In the end, I like the cute little betafpv nano Pico . Flew nice out of the box if you remember
I’ve had issues specifically with Elrs and bluejay. BlheliS and Elrs fine, redpine, flysky, dsm and bluejay fine. Elrs just seems to cause the jitters. I even tested adding a dsm receiver to the elrs spi board to make sure that’s what it was.
Its funny, but i had that weird jitters too when i swapped my radio to the Zorro. But on the piggyback ELRS module it was ok. Did u try with an ELRS radio? Im curious to know more about this. Apologies for the late reply bruh. Been tied up of late.
@@shogunemperor I tried with Radiomaster tx16s and betafpv module and the new T20 Jumpwr with internal. Seemed to be worse on internal. Both at 150hz. I also have a betafpv lite2 and it isn’t flyable it’s stutters and freezes and lags like crazy but i think it’s just a bad unit and not the same issue. I have messed with different hz rates on tx16s and different preset loads for elrs in Betaflight and a couple different betaflight versions but i haven’t found anything noticeable besides the bluejay/blheli switch
@@Shauny_D interesting. So i found that using the Zorro caused my quads to be very sensitive and tends to jitter n twitch alot. And when i switched back to the JR module, it was much smoother. So its pretty weird.
@@shogunemperor yah there has to be some correlation between the hz rate and the smoothing settings in betaflight. If you load elrs presets in the tab they have different settings for each rate and it seems to only change smoothing
Thank you! Your videos are so informational. I have a betaFPV F4 s board that I accidentally removed the battery while the fourth ESC was uploading now ESC configuration Can't read the fourth ESC. Can you point me to the right direction on how to fix that? And thank you ahead of time
Thanks my bro! Really appreciate it man. Yeah, starting out in this hobby many years ago I didnt have many information or sources to the issues I had, so I didnt want anyone to go through the same thing! AAAAAHH!! Gotcha!! Were u flashing Bluejay? What u wanna do is reflash the ESCs back to the stock ones, then reflash again with Bluejay. Use the BLHELI configurator first to reflash back to stock. let me know the outcome yeah? Good luck bruh!!!
@@shogunemperor yeah this thing is driving me crazy. I have been trying for the last month and nothing has worked(maybe it's just me user error). I'm just going to give up. When I connect to BLHELI configurator with a battery it reads 3 ESC's but it reads it as error. The only configurator that reads the ESC's is the regular ESC configurator, that one only reads 3 and I can change from Bluejay to Blheli. Maybe you can make a video cuz there's got to be something I'm doing wrong. Regardless, thank you for taking the time to help me
@@jmquiroga10 totally feel u bruh!!! Try reflashing the whole FC instead and make sure u click "full erase" but SAVE the PIDs first!! Reflash the ESCs again and see if that works?
