Venmo tip jar: @AndrewDIY If it stops working when the weather gets cold, this very well might be the fix. Also check out the Garage Door LED bulb here: amzn.to/2Se5irq Soldering Iron here: amzn.to/2Lod0wT
Fantastic video with spot on information! I discovered a crack in the soldering-just as you described! My garage door opener is now functioning as it should. Thank you very much!
This was a life (money) saving video! Thank you. I was having trouble with the door, watched several videos and happened on this one. Never thought I'd be so lucky to have something this simple work. Then I remembered I had recently changed the light bulb to an LED. It took a week or two before I had an issue with the door. It started sporadically and continued to get worse. I changed back to regular light bulb and tried the door. Nothing. Ugh! I ran my errand and when I came back I tried the garage door opener and presto it opened. I tried it a few more times just to make sure it really works. This has saved me a lot of money I could ill afford to spend on a service call. Thank you!
I also had an intermittently working garage door. Found this video. Followed his instructions for pulling the circuit board. I found a bad solder joint. Re-soldered it and everything works properly. Thanks for posting this helpful video.
For years, one of the lights would sometimes work, but mostly not. Lately, the opener has been flaky, just as you describe. I pulled the boards and found a bad solder joint. The vexing intermittent opener problem is now resolved and both lights work fine. Thanks very much for this video. It's refreshing that you went to the trouble of investigating the cause instead of just replacing boards like most of the other "experts". Thanks again.
Seriously, the best garage door view ever. After an hour and a new garage door opener later....I took out the new light bulb and boom, it worked. Thanks a ton man!!
Thank gosh I listened to the complete video. Near the end of your video you mentioned an antenna wire. Noone else had me toned that part. I ran out to the garage, looked at mine and it was coated with DECADES of dirt and grime. I cleaned it, straightened it so it pointed at the floor, ran to my car, and my car remote worked 5 times in a row!!!! I am thrilled and hope it continues to work! Just sharing in case others have the same problem.
Almost 4 years after you posted this video and it’s still helping people. Well made video. Excellent, clear instructions. Thank you very much for showing the soldering. The crack in my board was right where yours was. Now i can enjoy my long 4th of july weekend! I hope you enjoy yours as well
Mate! The broken solder connection... had the Exact same problem exact same post. Super simple 5 min fix and I wouldnt have even thought to look that closely. Saved me some coin for real. Brilliant tip. Cheers mate!
This was the perfect video. I had an overhead door legacy that was flickering and stopping intermittently and then eventually died altogether. It seemed worse as the weather got hot. I took out the logic board and found a completely cracked solder joint. I was able to re-solder it and put the whole thing back together and it works! Thank you!
Garage door randomly quits for months, then stops completely. "Why don't you just call someone?" wife says. Saw your video. "That's nice, but I'm not that lucky" I say. Took out the circuit board and saw a little corroded solder crack and say "That's would be nice if it was the problem, but I'm not that lucky." Soldered it as you showed and said "Even if that was the problem, my blobby mess of a solder fix won't work; I'm not that lucky." Put it all back together, lights came on, and it worked. Lucky me. Many thanks!
Can't thank you enough. It's been months if not a year with our garage door not working right. It would open with the remote from around the corner but wouldn't close even when we were right outside the door. It was the freaking lights! I pulled both LED lights out and the remotes work like they were brand new. I literally had a whole new opener in my Amazon cart and then found your video. Thank you so much, definitely earned a sub!
THANK-YOU! This video along with another one on RU-vid allowed me to fix my opener! On that same board, there were visible cracks on one of the solder joints. I never soldered before but I bought a kit and was able to re-solder the joint. It FIXED my garage opener that would intermittently stop while opening or closing. This video helped so much on my FIX!!! AMAZING!
My GDoor symptoms were identical to this video. Took the GDoor controller apart, found a loose soldered connection on the power circuit board, soldered it, put it all back together and PRESPTO... works like a charm. Thank you.
Thank you for posting this video. I had been fighting a problem of the door not going down without holding the main control down. All safety sensors were clean, aligned, and powered properly. Voltage was good at the sensors and the source. Boards were all good. I was about to give up and replace it all until I watched this video. I unscrewed the light bulbs and it worked perfectly. Thank you!!!
Mine was working intermittently and I found the capacitor leaking and so ordered a new one on Amazon. Cost was about $7. I put the info on Nextdoor so others could save money and I got pushback as to why I didn't just call a garage door repairman. (In my area that's between $60!-$90 just to show up) SMH!!! People think everything needs a 'specialist' to fix. Glad you were able to fix yours!
Thank You!! I had the circuit board off yesterday and visually inspected it, but not real sure what I was looking for, but there was nothing obvious. Put it all back together, adjusted raising and lowering heights, door force, cleaned sensor glass, lights seemed to work, no error signals, then TODAY I saw this video. I thought let me look at the connections again on the board. I didn’t have a magnifying glass so took a picture with the cell phone and zoomed in and found one connector (opposite end of where you soldered) cracked all the way around. It didn’t seem to be loose or move, but needed to be re-soldered. Then put an extra dab of solder on it and voila!!! FIXED. My wife was shopping for a new opener on Amazon. Thank YOU!!!
I can't thank you enough Andrew. By replacing my light bulbs with the special garage door opener light bulbs, that fixed my problem totally. It's been 3 weeks now and my garage door hasn't malfunctioned since changing those bulbs. I never paid $24 for 2 bulbs but it was well worth it for eliminating my problem. Many thanks again Andrew
This video is a life saver! I've had this exact garage door opener for like 7 years. Mostly been fine but recently started having some glitches. Long story short, I had LED lights installed the whole time, switched them out to some old school standard bulbs. It's been three weeks and have not had a single glitch. Thank you!
You are very observant. I would not have known the crack in the soldering led to my garage opener works intermittently. I thought it was the capacitor issue at first, but after replacing it, it still didn't work right. Now, with your video, I fixed it and it saves me a lot of money!!
Thanks for a great video with crystal-clear explanations. I run a computer and network support business, and one of my customers consequently thinks I can troubleshoot anything electrical or electronic, haha, and asked me to fix her funky garage door opener remote control issues. I looked at all of the obvious possible causes, including cold solder joints on the logic board, as well as connector corrosion, but would have never thought about interference caused by failing incandescent light bulb filaments or LED light bulb drivers. You da man! 😄
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! Thanks to your video I was able to troubleshoot a microscopic cracked trace on the signal board and re-solder. Opener works again as it should.. I was about to break down and buy a new board!! Your the real MVP
Thank you SO MUCH for this video! Could not find ANY info online about this. Every forum post I read mentioned the sensors but I knew mine had to be electrical/circuit board related the way my lights were flickering. The exact same joint on mine was cracked. Re soldered and we are back in business. Thank you again, this video saved me.
Thank you so much for the light bulb tip! We were ready to call a garage opener repair person until we tried removing the LED light bulbs we had just replaced. Both the keypad and the garage door opener in the car worked perfectly even from a distance! Also ordered some LEDs specifically for garage door openers and we'll try them. The LEDs are brighter so I hope this works. Thanks again - no other video I watched mentioned this problem and none of their "fixes" worked.
After watching other videos about why my garage door kept reversing when closing and not being able to resolve my issue, I decided to watch all 12 plus minutes of this video. My first thought was that this video could have been allot shorter and that I really doubted this could be my issue but after cleaning the optical sensor lenses and making sure they were aligned, I was out of options and still had the same intermitent problem. Also, we had noticed that our door always seemed to be worse when the weather was cold. Long story short, I followed the instructions in the video and lo and behold, I found a loose componenet on the board with a cracked solder joint. After resoldering the part, everything worked like a champ and was not a difficult fix at all. If you've exhausted all the easy fixes, I would highly recommend following this advice. Thanks
I watched the video and could not find any issues with the soldering. After reading the comments I re-solder all contacts at the element in the video and the problem was solved. Thank you so much for the great guide!
Excellent video, thanks! I have a 1/2hp Craftsman just like this one which was going up fine but randomly stopping going down. This started right after one of the door cables broke, which had shaken the whole system pretty good. My power board didn’t have any obviously broken joints like yours did, so I just re-flowed all of the larger solder joints anyway. Fixed the issue immediately. This is the third time I’ve been plagued by broken PCB solder joints; twice in very expensive modules in my cars, and now once on a garage door opener. I bet issues like these are responsible for many openers being tossed into landfill.
All I can is thank you, thank you, thank you! I was going to call a repairman in to change my Liftmaster gargae door opener but your video saved me and it turned out to be the Feit Led light bulbs I had installed. The issue with the light bulbs did not start until after a 2 day power outage for some reason but after removing them my issue was solved.
Hi Andrew, your video is the first one I watched that was not referencing an LED light bulb as the culprit. This morning I was searching for something different and your video is just that. As I recall, I've always had problems in the winter time here in Connecticut. I haven't explored your fix yet but will later today. I am willing to bet I have a cracked solder joint. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this video because I'm sure it has helped several and I bet it may help me later today as I explore further.
Whole time it was an oulet behind my bench that tripped the breaker....smh. once i re set the breaker the dam lights came on the garage opener..... i done took the sensors off , the light bulbs and the wires that go into the fuckin thing ....after some time i was like screw this shit...i noticed my battery for my blower battery wasn't charging....once i hit that re set button...i coulnt believe it.... 😆 😆
Thank you so much for this video. My garage door opener was having intermittent problems in hot weather. I followed your instructions and found a cold solder joint on the circuit board. I re-solder the joint and it is working fine now.
Amazingly clear explanations! Best 13 minutes I've spent in quite a while. Consider me subscribed! Update: I was going to replace my garage door opener. But with the information obtained in this video I was able to get it working fine again.
I can’t believe it was my bulb causing this. I put a new bulb in about a year ago. Thought the remotes were getting old so I bought new ones. Still the same. Lived with it during the winter.Googled extending garage door antenna and your video popped up. Thanks a ton!!
Wow. Been having problems for the last year. Was ready to replace the unit. Removed the LED bulbs and problem solved!!! That would’ve never entered my mind! THANK YOU!!!
Thank you! My symptoms were that it acted up when it was real hot. Sometimes the controller light would go off and you could tap the opener and the controller light would turn back on. But after seeing the video I spotted a solder joint that didn't have enough solder on it. Added solder and all is well. Great job!
Oh my gosh! I have been fighting with my Chamberlain Liftmaster since Christmas and I have tried resetting everything. It was the dumb LEDs I had installed. I would have never guessed. I can't thank you enough, Andrew. Now I have to thaw out from my most recent hour of fighting. If not for your video, I would still be out there freezing.
A very big thank you for posting this video!! I have a similar 1/2HP Craftsman door opener that has worked very well for many years. The other day it started acting up. Would randomly stop midway through closing, seemed to open fine but closing was a problem. Same symptoms as you described in the video where the light would flicker when the door stopped so looked like a lack of power issue to me. Watched your video and took the boards out as you suggested. On the very same row of pins but the other end from what you had in the video was a cold solder joint! WOW!! easy fix and back together and working well now. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
I can't believe it. I'm a field engineer (although not for garage door openers) so troubleshooting is my daily fare. I've played with my GDO off and on for weeks with confusing results. Opened it up and looked at the circuit board, which looks completely different, but what did I find? A cracked solder joint where the transformer connects to the circuit board!! Problem fixed within minutes!! Thank you so much Andrew!
This is a very common problem with the Craftsman or Liftmaster garage door openers of the same vintage shown in the repair youtube video.. This intermittent electrical problem does appear especially during weather changes. Vibrations from the operation of the door opener can also cause the same problems. Symptoms include no response from the door button or remote, moving partially up or down before stopping, etc. The most noticeable is when the door moves and stops midway and you will note that the lights go out indicating the power supply board is the culprit. Many times by unplugging and plugging the door opener back in will temporally fix (reboot) this but is only the quick fix when you need to get the dam thing open or closed to move the car!. Removing this power supply board as instructed and visually inspecting the solder joints with a magnifying glass (unless your eyes are real good) will show what we call a cold solder joint. Reflowing the solder and adding some electrical 60/40% rosin core solder will definitely fix the problem using any solder gun or iron. These boards are manufactured using a wave soldering technique which if not properly performed at the factory will eventually cause future failures at the joints were the components connect to the board. My repair was at the electrical connection pins between the transmitter board and the smaller power board. Total repair time including moving the car out of the garage, getting a step ladder, etc. took about 50 minutes. Purchasing a new receiver logic board assembly with the plastic end panel is an option and runs about $75 from Amazon. You can't just buy the power supply section of the assembly. Try fixing it first or call a friend with experience. I seem to be called all the time on garage door opener problems.
@@p14buk I have had to resolder most of the solder joints on the control board on my Craftsman opener, as well as re-cap it. Recapping the radio board made all the difference in the world.
@@PyroRob69 Bad capacitors are usually deformed out of their original case. The top case will look like the innards pushed upward - might even look like they exploded.
Andrew - You are the master!! My Genie garage door opener started stopping 1-2 feet from the ground each time it opened. I checked everything in the manual and some quick You Tube videos. I was ready to buy a new opener. I watched this video and you solved it. I had one LED light bulb on the opener flickering. I removed the bulb and there you go. It worked. Thanks!!
Thank you for this video! Google results from years ago, were swimming in sensor problems. I could have taped them together and still had this problem, when the shop got over 78° inside. I gave up and just dealt with it. At least I have something to inspect now. Thanks again. Edit: I wasn’t able to fix the board, but $100 to get it working all summer long, was well worth it! I’d just gotten used to it not working a couple months out of the year.
Thank you so much for your video! I watched several RU-vid videos and tried lots of things before watching your video but nothing really worked. The problem with my garage door was just like how you described - intermittent - and although I could not see any cracks in the welds, I took a leap of faith and re did the welds of the pins. Then I put everything back and it worked! Great tip! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Had exact same symptoms usually during temp and humidity swings. My door would open OK, but sometimes had a problem closing. I would tap gently on the front of motor housing with a small hammer and would usually clear the problem, which immediately told me good chance of a microscopic control board solder joint fracture, like yours. Yup, that what it was, and your fix is all that's needed. One guess of cause is years of on-off operation torque and temp expansion-contraction on the board.
Thank you! Just did mine tonight and it worked. Spent about $10 for my soldering iron and solder. I didnt have to hunt for my bad area. It was brown. Can't thank you enough!
YOU know what else works "beautifully"? 60 seconds + A coat hanger going straight thru the top of your garage door to the dislatch. EASILY to break into YOUR house! If you don't want your house broken into make sure you zip tie the dislatch on your garage door. Thank me later. You're welcome Ryan. God bless.
I changed my incandescent light bulb out for a led bulb. I just so happened to have changed the gear assembly at the same time. So when I put it all back together I couldn't figure out why it spins a few revolutions and then stops. It was the led bulb! I had no idea those bulbs emit a radio frequency. Which also explains why my garage door remote is so temperamental now. I changed all the bulbs over my washroom and my workbench with LEDs. My remote has acted weird ever since. I just thought the remote was going bad. Anyway,thank you so much for taking the time to explain things. The best trouble shooting video on yt for garage doors!
The cold solder joint was exactly my problem, same spot too, easy fix, thank you so much! I knew something was up considering one of the light bulbs wasn't working and the door would randomly stop, happy this did the trick.
This was super helpful. I wasn't able to see a specific crack or bad solder joint in mine, but like some of the other commenters, I just resoldered each of the connection pins around the transformer on both sides and now it's working great again. Thank you for taking the time to do this video. So many perfectly good electronic items get dumped in a landfill each year - thanks to you, we can keep some of these older garage door openers in service a while longer. Thanks for the terrific video.
Yep, a certain time of the year when the sun rises or set during a small 15 minute window my garage doors will not close. The garage door will start to go down a couple feet and then revise with the lights flashing. Wait 15 or 20 minutes when the sun is at a different angle all is well. Or I can hold the manual door button down until the door is all the way down works too.
Thanks for the video! Seems like I had all the issues it was possible to have on this. I had the cold solder joints that needed repaired, but that didn't fix it. Then, my remotes wouldn't program. Turned out those had frequency drifted, and had to have the variable cap adjusted. Then finally, there was the LED light bulb issue, which explained why the garage door would OPEN, but not CLOSE. Because the light would be on once it was open!
I checked the one you had crack. No issues there. Found a wire going to the light socket that had a bare spot. Taped it up. Worked great 10 times then started again. Found out board is obsolete, so, I ordered a used one. Then gave it the old college try. Found it was the pin on the other board that the 4 and 1 plugs on the other board. It was the one opposite end of the single pin side. Works perfect now and I have spare parts. Thanks!
Our opener started to experience the same issue you identified. It would start opening then stop. I had to hit the unit to get it to work and close before I looked at it. The issue was a fracture in the solder as you exactly described! Hard to see a first but it was there. Resoldered the spot and it is now operating fine. Now I have to return the new craftsman opener I bought just in case the fix didn’t work 😅. The wifey willl never know!!! Thanks again for this video!
You were absolutely right, I was about to replace it, but I wanted to give it another shot and I found you video, I found a crack and I fix ed it. Thanks a lot
Excellent video. My old Chamberlain chain drive opener began reversing on the way down in cold Cleveland weather. It was no fun manually operating the door for a couple of months. I eventually inspected the control board carefully and found no bad solder connections or blown capacitors. Instead, I found that holding the hard-wired control switch the entire ride down for about a week of comings and goings fixed the problem. I've operated it without trouble for two months in moderately cold and bitterly cold weather. Why or how is beyond me, but it's a welcome result for sure.
I can't believe it! I had to look at it with a magnifying glass but sure enough, my same solder joint that is in the video was cracked and caused my intermittent problem (up or down). Thank you for the post!
Thank you so much!!! I had exactly this failure on that exact solder connection. Completely crazy behavior from the opener. It was like it was possessed. Re-soldering it made it run flawlessly again!
Thank you, this video was extremely informative and helpful. My door began working randomly, it would shut off as if it lost power in mid cycle, top, ect... completely random. Seemed more temperamental during the rain or really high humidity days here in SC. Door had been acting up for about 2-3 weeks. The last 2 days it was stopping almost immediately, as soon as vibration began it shutdown. I pulled the board and found a hairline crack in the solder just as you had, a bit of heat from soldering gun, little extra solder and done, fixed. Thank you again, extremely helpful.
Thank you for the video. My Liftmaster just quick working one day. Only thing it did was click twice when either the wall switch or the remote were pushed. I thought it must be the capacitor or the circuit board. I opened up the unit and the capacitor appeared ok so I considered the circuit board. Upon first look all seemed fine. I was looking for something obvious. I decided to disconnect the board and examine it more closely. I found taking close pictures of each section of the board to be very helpful. I was able to zoom into each solder point and see if there was an issue. Soon enough I found a couple of suspect solders. I added a small amount of solder to the problem points. I reinstalled the board and the opener works again! Great solution. Thanks for the advice.
I had two different issues with my garage door. Door starts to go down stops half way goes back up and the incandescent light would flicker but those were different issues happening at different times. Plus the incandescent outside would not last long. So I tried the led bulbs In the garage and outside problem solved never another flicker and no changing of the outside bulbs for 3 yrs now. The other problem I sprayed the rollers on the garage door with WD 40 solved the other problem , less squeaking too. Worked for me cant guarantee it will work for you.
Easy fix - thanks so much! I have opened this up once before and replaced the 10-inch 'antenna' with a 20-foot run of heave gauge wire. Can open a block away now! I have previously done almost the same thing replacing barrel capacitors in 3 of our Bosch appliances - each time about $3.50 in parts. They wanted $600 for the whole circuit board for the dishwasher.
Thank you for this video! The broken solder on my unit was at the connector that joins the two boards together. I did not notice at initial inspection, had to use a very strong magnifying glass and wiggle the pins to see the crack. Re-soldered and all good.
Thank you Andrew! Spot on. I wasn't sure that I could see the hairline cold solder joint (but maybe). While I had it disassembled I just touched up all of the solder joints on the power supply board, and on the logic board on the connector between the two boards. Voila. Problem solved! Really appreciate you taking the effort to make this video. Made my day.
This video just saved me about $200 and the hassle of replacing an almost perfectly good garage door opener. The problem was a bad solder joint to the lone pin on the power board connector. Without this video I would not have gone to the hassle of removing the boards and so carefully inspecting all the solder joints. I used an ohmmeter to confirm that the connection was faulty, an easy test I recommend if you have the equipment. A tip for removing the sensor wiring from the connector block, a step not shown in the video. Taking a photo of the wiring before removal, as suggested in the video, is a good idea. Even better is to first label the wires before taking a photo. I marked them from R to L with 1 to 4 dots per wire using a permanent Sharpie and then marked the R connector with 1 dot to match. This makes getting the wires back in the correct place so easy you might not need to refer to the photo. Comments on the video: The reflowed solder joint looked good only about a quarter to a third of the way around. Best is to have a fully wetted connection all the way around. But it's possible that the illumination or focus just made the joint look not quite right. Also, you might get more hits if you fix the spelling of "Tempermental" in the title on this webpage. Otherwise, excellent quality video. This video was posted since the last time I tried to troubleshoot my erratic garage door opener, so I was pleased to see a suggestion other videos didn't include. Thank you, Andrew!
Been running LED bulbs then started having issues last week. Did start noticing the flicker on the bulb. Changed out 3 led bulbs in the garage, cleaned up the area and it worked better but not 100%. Worked 75% of the time. So I popped everything out, checked out the circuit board and it ended up being the little one. Didn't notice the cold joint on this video but some at the bottom didn't look as strong as the others. So I soldered 4 points at the bottom. Then went ahead and did the one you did on this video just to give it a little extra protection. Now it works like a charm. You sir got a like, comment, subscribe and my props for this video. As a Mercedes Benz and bmw tech I really didn't want to fork over 300 bucks to the garage man if I didn't need to! Thanks!
Had the same problem with our craftsman opener. Pulled the power board an sure enough the exact same connection was broken. Thank you for this tutorial saved me a lot of head ache trying to diagnose my shitty 50 year old garage door. Made me question if company’s even bother doing field testing to update there designs to fix things like this when so many people are willing to just go out and buy a new one. Little rubber stand offs will hopefully fix this for longer then just re-soldering the connection.
It worked! Longest part was warming up the soldering iron! 20 minutes and boom back in business. Repair guy quoted $550 to install a new Liftmaster. Glad I came across this video!
@@AndrewDIY My garage door motor would run when I pushed the button on the wall but the door didn't go up. I pulled on the rope with the red handle then it started taking the door up and down like normal. Why did I have to do that when I have never touched that cord before?
Thank you for this. I had the same cracked solder joints so I re-sweated the entire power board and some of the control board. My 2007 door opener is working great again..
Holy heck. My dollar general led bulb was causing interference when the light was on making the remotes and keypad work poorly. I had no idea what the problem was. I bought a new opener. When leaving we would have to close the door with the wall pad and step over the eye beam because the light was still on. I removed the led bulb and back to normal. I guess I can take back the new opener I had bought and thankfully didn’t open. Thanks for the video!
Wow. Was having this problem ....... remotes would work sometimes, others not. Usually only worked when "in" the garage close to the unit antenna. Removed the light bulb on the antenna side and all good now. Works every time, even from street distance. I bet I reprogrammed my remotes at least 25 times over the past week trying to get it to work. I'm sure I must have recently replaced that bulb and didn't think anything about it. Headed to store tomorrow to pickup the special garage door bulbs you mentioned. Never knew there was such a thing. Thanks Andrew DIY. I may post a short video on my channel to "check your bulbs first" and will definitely give you a shout out.
That's something to look for in any electronics failure. Good catch. Also, CFL bulbs can mess with garage door openers. Pretty much any bulbs that have electronics in them can be "dirty" and cause RF interference.
This video shows a small crack as you can see in this video , I took my out and take a look, at first it looks normal and I did not see anything wrong and still doing inspection finely found very mall crack around square post , using a small file file around the post re solder the post , and now working like brand new, This was a life (money) saving video! Thank you. Andrew,
I had the shaking problem and intermittent opening/closing part way and sometimes all the way, and sometimes no operation at all. Lights flashing were different all the time, so they gave no hint. Wires to sensor and wall control were fine, but.... later. After watching your video, and seeing you had the same "hit the opener body" action, and it worked, I disassembled the control panel. The logic board looked fine, and examined with microscope. The power board was also fine. I thought maybe the push-on connectors may not have made good contact. Reassembled. I found that one of the wires to the wall button had not been stripped far enough. I stripped it further. Reinserted wires. All works good again so far. 1/4" of wire insulation was taking the wall control offline, and stopping the whole thing. (Was a professional opener installation about 10 years ago replacing an old opener which had operated for 20 years.) THANKS! Saved me at least a hundred $$ and maybe a thousand, if I had had to have a pro fix it or replace it.
This was very helpful. Mine would stop travel at random times, only quick flicker of the light bulbs when it happened. Other symptom was the LED on the wall switch would sligtly dim and flicker at random times. I measured the voltage on the blue cap of the transformer board which should be 24V, but it would drop down to 16V sometimes. Did not notice at first, but the one of the transformer solder joints was cracked. Just resoldered it and all good.
My garage door has been working intermittently for the past almost 2 weeks. Sometimes it works from the wall panel, sometimes not, sometimes it works from my car, sometimes not. I was trying to figure out what to tell the tech I planned to call tomorrow to come fix it. Two minutes into your video, I went to the garage and removed the 2 new incandescent bulbs I’d installed before the problems started. I’ve tested it a few times and now the garage seems to be working just fine. My son thought I was crazy and said I needed to watch the rest of the video, which I will, but so far changing the lightbulbs has it working!! Who’d have thought??? THANK YOU!! I will look for those garage-specific bulbs. I replaced them because one was out, and that one it still out. But at least the garage is working properly!!
About a year ago my CRAFTSMAN® [1/2-HP] Belt drive garage door opener would intermittently 'not' work in extreme weather changes. Around (6) months ago I totally re-soldered the (10) locations you indicated. To this day I have never had a problem... - Thank You -
Thank you so much for this video. I had just put in some LED bulbs when the old incandescent bulbs burned out and I was so confused why all of a sudden my doors would open the first time I used the opener in a while but then would not close. I realize now it’s because when the opener is idle the lights are off so the first signal gets through. But when the opener turns on the lights it creates its own interference problem from the LED and so it stops responding to the remote!
Thanks for this video, I haven't checked these boards in my mothers garage door opener motor yet but I'm suspecting this to be the problem. I don't think it's the bulb, although I'll check it, because my sister changed it about a month or so ago with a conventional bulb and this problem was going on before that.
Why I did not think about this is beyond me... it's always hot here so it always mis-behaved. I have an older opener but I found multiple suspicious solder joints, I just went around and touched each joint with my fine tip iron and a little fine solder and bingo! Now my opener works again and saved me $300.00, thank you!!!
Thank you. Had a lightning strike to the house and it blew out the builds and control board. Replaced the board and added LED bulbs. It would work only about 20 pct of the time. Was ready to call an expert. Put in incandescent bulbs they now work 100 pct of the time. Gave me fits.. thanks..
Thanks so much for this! My opener would travel 5 or 6 inches, reverse back to where it started and then nothing. It even did this with the door not connected to the pulley. Gotta admit I didn't watch this all the way through. After the first few minutes I went and replaced the LED bulbs with regular bulbs, and presto, bingo...it started working fine again!!!!
