Thank you! This helped me fix my stranded 99 surburban.. it had intermittently had no start on these rainy heavy humidity days twice before.. but started after sitting.. Same rainy day.. no spark/no start.. You saved hour/hours of troubleshooting & repair!! Thank you!!
When the Ford driver pulls up Driver - hey need some help Me - sure you got some tools Driver - na but I can tow u to a close spot Me - no thanks I don't want my Chevy to catch the Ford
@@lesliebowling5889 lol ford don't need tools cluttering the inside of the vehicle or outside carry along because you never know when it will shut down on you like this chevy
Just wanted to leave a feedback so others can benefit as I did. I have a 99' Suburban with a 5.7L engine on it. I had a crank no-start due to the crankshaft sensor. To make it easy for all, I did check for battery voltage and compared the measurement on the battery touching ground at the engine and other areas, then checked for spark on my #1, I had my 60 PSI on the fuel, good compression, it was not the alarm system. Then I said to myself, if is not the crankshaft sensor ($28 in Rock Auto vs. $70 plus in AutoZone then it would be the distributor shaft broken. Lucky me, I installed the sensor and that was it. My theory is that when you leave a car without starting it for a long time, those sensor oxide in the inside even though you might think that there is no way to get humidity but it does. I did not check the resistance to compare it but I will. Hopefully this comment help others as well.
Hmm....i could use some advice.. i have that same pickup in the vid ...97 (even the same color). it died on me in the middle of the road.....i changed the cap and rotor...still crank no start.,. i checked fuel pressure....64-65 psi at key on... i checked the injectors by using a snapon computer and pulsing each injector individually......each injector pulsed and sounded fine...(still no start). i used my timing light and checked for spark to each cyl....all good to the plug...plugs new(still no start) i disconnected the MAF sensor to send it into "limp home mode" in case it was the MAF......no change... now if it were the crank sensor it would not spark right?......i do have spark sooo.... i dont get it...im running out of ideas and money to throw at it....and im in deep trouble without it as it gets close to bad weather seasons.....any advice would help greatly...
Thanks for the video. Watched it because I was having the same issues with my 97' Suburban and when I removed the distributor cap and rotor it was identical to yours. Replaced the parts and it started right up.
Same thing happened to my 1500 5.0, I just changed the wires, cap and rotor, but it turned out that the Ignition module attached to the coil itself was the root of the issue. I had an extra module hanging around from a 1996 Impala SS, and just transferred the new one over to the known bad one. Runs like a top now!
I had a 96 Chevy 1500 truck 4x4 5.7 V-8... crank no start it would kind of shudder or slightly start but not run smooth then just crank but would not start. Replaced the cap and rotor along with ignition coil pack and it started right up and runs great now. I didn't just throw parts at it though i did about 2 hours of checking fuel pump, fuel relay, pressure at fuel rail and it all checked out. Next tested spark it was there but faint or weak not much flash in my tool tester. Pulled the cap and rotor and had a burn hole in the rotor so I knew I was on the right track. Replaced ignition coil and cap and rotor and its fixed. Hope this helps someone with my symptoms!!
Yes, it does help your comments; sounds that this problem is kind of common. I am ordering the coil, cap, rotor, and the crankshaft sensor to see what happen. Like you everything else is checking ok.
Jose Burgos good I'm glad it helps. I would do the cap, rotor and coil pack first and see if it starts before doing the crank sensor. That way if it starts you know what it was and if it doesn't start then change the sensor out and try to start it again unless you want to just change the sensor too but if not it will save you time and you can return the sensor as long as you don't install it. And yeah definitely is common with age and miles just because those are parts that are constantly under use the entire time its running unlike a starter etc.. I decided once I found the burn mark on the rotor to change the coil pack too incase it was malfunctioning and caused it to burn up and also so I know that my ignition and spark parts are all new at the same time. I have to say after I replaced those parts its been great! So good luck and let me know if you need any help or have a question and I'll try to get back to you ASAP.
I was having the same problem, thanks to your video I was able to diagnose my ignition coil was bad and able to save $400+ I didn't have to pay for a tow and repair... Thank you, thank you, thank you... Keep up the great videos!
Excellent video; thank you much for your time to put this together for those of us DIY. For sure this will help me find my 1999 Suburban problem that haven't find out as of yet...
and last! I have 3 of these and they are coming up on 20 years old. They still run like sewing machines and the exterior and interiors have worn very well I might add. If parts are still available, maybe they will run another 20 years?
soon as you said how the truck died while driving and that you had tried starter fluid to get it started and it didn't start, first thing that came to mind was the coil and sure enough that's what it was. didn't help that the distributor cap and rotor were so bad. I went to school to be a mechanic and did an engine swap on a car and it ran okay when it left the shop but after it had been driven by it's owner for a couple of hours it did the exact same thing and I wound up going over to where they were and diagnosing the problem and fixing it. it turned out to be the coil also. a very frustrating thing to go through especially since it was raining while I was trying to work on the car
Thanks pal!! Love my 98 4x4...! I take it to work and it sits for a month at a time.Last few times she would start, but run rough, backfiring and stumble, etc.Thought maybe condensation in my fuel.Replaced fuel filter and put in new fuel...still, it quit and wouldnt start.Finally got it home and im replacing coil, cap, rotor, module, etc.Im positive its ignition.Somewhere in there! HA! Pulled the cap and it was corroded and worn....heres to hoping! Thanks again!
240xxx miles. Aint that cute. I have a 1997 5.7 tahoe with a million 250xxx all original. Nothing but fluid changes breaks and 2 fuel pumps and i pull a 30ft camper full time with her. Keep up the good maintenance my friend. It pays off.
Did this problem stay resolved??? I have a 98 chevy 1500 that refuses to start after rain. I have replaced all the plugs and wires, rotor and cap. Runs like a champ but has problems starting in the rain. Any help or advice is appreciated its becoming a serious issue.
I have a 97 vortec and here lately it has lost its power and acceleration and missing and it's hard to start also once I get it running and drive it for a little and shut it off and try to start it it just turns over and I drove it home from work and next day went to go start it It will just turn over it will fire a couple times then die could it be distributor cap and rotor bad or possibly fuel pump or even both any help is appreciated
I have a 98 z71 extra cab with 194000, parked it when I got off work, the next morning it wouldn't start at all just would crank, took the box off tittle body sprayed some starter fluid and it started and cut back off, but I didn't hook the box back up when doing that so not having the maf sensor on could be why it cut back off, I know last week, 1 morning I was driving and my truck started to misfire bad, ima try and do a tune up when i get off today, I just replaced the fuel pump last year and I can hear it turn on and off so I'm ruling that out, my truck usually never has problems but she is 20 years old, I'll let you know if I have any luck..
I HAVE A 1998 GMC sierra SLT 1500. NEW FUEL PUMP .PROBLEM THATS HAPPING IS SHE START UP NICE IF IT'S COLD OR WARM OUT.AFTER DRIVING HER TO THE STORE AND SHE SIT FOR ABOUT 30MIN. SHE WILL NOT START WITH THE KEY,I ALWAYS HAVE TOO PUT MY FOOT ON THE PEDAL, FOR HER TOO START.130,000 MILES ,I replaced WIRE & PLUGS ONLY.AND FUEL PUMP. ALSO PUT A NEW STARTER IN HER.I REALLY LOST MY MIND ON THIS.can you give me some tips???
My 99 Sub is acting like this. Why didn't I think of just sticking the coil in to check it? Sheesh. Well done! My rotor and cap had fuzz growing in it. Thanks for this man. I appreciate it.
My 96 silverado starts for 1-2 secs then shuts off any Idea what could cause it to turn off? I already changed the Ignition coil, spark plugs and wires, distributor cap & rotor, crankshaft sensor, and fuel pump all AC Delco.
More over guys when a truck hits that big 100K mark replace the ignition module in the Dist. In some cases it smooths out bad idling and other rough run issues. The 5.7 are prone to Air Idle switch issues at times on the Express vans along with the rough issues as well.
I had spark, compression, and good fuel pressure. Still wouldn’t start. It was moisture in the distributor cap. I shot it with my heat gun for about 15 minutes and it fired right up.
My 1997 is cranking but not starting, I replaced the cap and the rotor and replaced my spark plugs and spark wires, I’m not sure what’s stopping it from starting.
On a Chevy Astro, if the car won't start on rainy days, run a ground wire from the coil body to a cast iron metal part or battery ground cable as ground. Put sealer under the distributor cap to seal it. Replace the cap and rotor and coil and module. Change the plug wires. Lift the distributor with the cap removed to check the distributor gear play.
My 99 Suburban just did the same only I was trying to park in a parking spot an the truck just died an I just did plugs wires cap an roter it ran fine then just died out so I'm hoping it's the same issue
my 98 gmc k1500 had a miss....total tuneup , coil, plugs, wires cap and rotor, maf, fuel filter , alternator etc.....helped but still a small miss then was driving 55 and it quit , crank no start ....it was the GROUND STRAP WIRE .....runs from back of engine block ( hard to get to ) held on by a nut , down thru a tube to the passenger side frame , it had broken into ...so I'm thinking when it was still attached but corroded that was causing my miss then it broke and fuel cut off
Also when replacing the coil pack it has two pins pressed in to hold it to the bracket instead of drilling I used two good punches and was able to punch the pins right out in one or two minutes instead of drilling it out. I spray it with PB Blaster or WD-40 and then start the punch and give it another quick spray half way through and the pins will just start to fall apart and it'll come right out of the bracket. I did have a drill ready if I needed it but the punch and a hammer did the trick. Just a tip to anyone looking for ways to get those "rivet pins" out. Good Luck.
Mine did the same exact thing at the dollar general and there was a I had went through 2 different coils because O’Reillys gave me bad one I finally just went to advanced auto and got a working one.
I know this is an old video but I have the same truck and was just curious on things (big or little) you’d recommend just checking over and replacing I’m at 163,xxx miles
So about how often do you have to do the coil replacement? Mine has 211,000 and I know I have to do the cap/rotor on my 98 K1500, and I wonder if it would be worth just throwing a new coil on her. I may do a full Spark Plug/Wire job as well on the next tuneup (last done at 186,000 when I bought her). Also, did you end up getting a code about the spark advance out of spec? I can't remember the code off hand, but the last time I fiddled around with the cap/rotor, it threw that code and I had to play around with the placement of the rotor to put it back in spec to turn the check engine light off. I was curious to see if your truck threw that same one shortly after.
I never got a spark advance code, these caps and rotors are pretty stationary unless you mess with the base. As far as the cap, rotor, and coil on yours, I would just replace it all. $100 in preventative maintenance could save you from a breakdown in the middle of nowhere, I would say it's worth it.
I wish you had checked for spark first. I have a 99 denali that has spark but wont start. The spark seems a little weak. I don't want to buy a new coil if I don't need it. It has 60 lbs fuel pressure. any ideas?
Jim Gordon Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, emissions test, oxygen sensor test, record, and MORE! It works from 1983-2013 and is updatable. EBAY has it.
sometimes you can diagnose these pretty easily if it so happens that the coil pack is loose inside the square metal surround and or mounting bracket chances are its been vibrating for so long that internally it has failed , vibrations and electronics don't mix well and the little solder connections are brittle to begin with even if it has the resin coating on it still.
hi Daniel, i own a 1998 Chevy Cheyenne c1500 v8 5.0 and my symptoms are these and only these. my truck doesn't always start on the first key pull but will more often start on the 2nd key pull and almost always start on the 3rd key pull. what do you think it could be anyone have a guess please do let me know. thanks in advance!!!
I'm having the same problem with my 95 chevy z71. Timing chain is good, replaced distributor cap, rotor, and ignition control module, still turns but no start. Did you have any spark from the plugs before changing the coil? The mechanic says he got spark from a plug wire, but can the coil still be bad, Even with a spark? Need help plz.
I have the same problem, same truck... Mines just won't start when moisture is in the air.... I think maybe it's the coil also...I need to check rotor cap/rotor button. Could be a hairline crack I can't see... I spray Wire Dry on wires & components at times.... Good video !
I had these symptoms over the weekend and fixed my 1998 Chevy Tahoe. I would say that you should test the ignition coil for a spark first before you undo those bolts. I took it out before testing it and had to put it back in to test it and it had a nice spark so I knew it was probably the cap and rotor. I replaced those and if fired right up. Cap and rotor wasn't too bad.
Did yiu have a check engine light on? I have a p1351. It does start but it's a hard to start specially when it's super cold outside. Gotta crank it twice or more to start. I had the ignition module tested and it came back as bad so I installed a new one along with a new coil. I'm gonna have to check the cap and rotor. I might have to also test the starter. It might be starting to fail.
Ispent so much money on replacing all sensors under te hood on my 97 tahoe.Even replaced my fuel pump at a walmrt lot.But still wont start!So i guess im gonna have to give my rotor and cap,maybe shaft a look
I need help my truck quit running couple days ago I was driving and without warning my truck just shut off, I replaced the crank sensor and new timing chain. When I aligned the timing marks on the crank and cam gears my distributor was pointing toward the back fire wall. I have no idea how this could have happened. If anyone can think of something please let me know. Thank you
I have a 98 Chevy k1500 truck 4+4 5.7l v-8 and if I take the air intake off the vortech intake off it won’t run right would that mean I have a air leak somewhere ?? I’m confused because you took it off and it runs good if I take mine off and start it it will pop and run relly rough then die
my 96 silverado had a bad no start condition where you would crank and crank and crank and it would occasionally pop after cranking, like "crank, stop......pop.......pop.......pop. " what could that be?
To set your distributor back in take motor top dead center on piston number one and make sure your timing point is on zero put distributor in some times it is easier with two people someone pushing on distributor someone taps the key and distributor will fall into place but make sure the tab on bug is facing number one cylinder
My truck just did this same shit. 96 Chevy. Same exact problems. Ran perfect went to go home boom wouldn't start. Before it had a sluggish start hit the gas then it'd run good
Listen to the video again. He didn't say he touched the plugs or wires. He said he already replaced them before the truck quit running. Hence he knew he didn't need to look at them.
305 V 8 eng. Cranks real slow don't spins to slow to fire hot spark hi compressing 120 pressing new starter new wires took spark plug out to see if cranks faster but did not? Why is there something wrong in side of eng. HELP!
Yo as a mechanic replacing wires and plugs out of replace the distributor cap and rotor and coil at 250,000 miles it would have been a done deal and I would have never had that problem but you might want to look at you fuel pump
Yes, it did. That goes all the way back to 1975 with V8 Chevy and GMC. The high resistance causes and big arch and eventually the cap gets a hole blown through it and the truck shuts off. Often the hole is much smaller and harder to detect. But that is/was the root cause. Good eye!!
It might be the purple wire on the neutral safety switch on the transmission mine is doing the same thing I just found it ordered both new plugs for 19.00 on Amazon it starts right up at the moment I'll put the new plugs on when they come Tuesday
I replaced the crank shaft position sensor ignition module ignition coil distributor cap and rotors and still no spark or start on my 99 gmc yukon.. Anyone?
Same problem, I had people telling me it was the fuel pump but you could hear it when key was on aux churning, and cycle back when shut off ignition. Thanks! I'm no mechanic, but anyone can fix something if they 1. Know how it goes together, and most importantly what it's functions are, and 2. If they aren't fucking idiots and use the right tools for the job.
