Great tip! Thank you for posting this. I was concerned I wouldn’t be able to find anything online to help me fix the gap in my cutting board. It was just what I needed!
I like that vacuum idea. And try Sliding some paper in gap. That would def help spread glue lil quicker. A thicker stock than regular notebook paper so it it doesn’t bend on u helps as well. Thx for idea!
That's good for repairing an older project but, this is a new project so you would have been better off to use s thin kerf blade and just rip cut along the glue line and re-glue that piece back on.
What type of glue are you using? PVA? Type-II or Type-III? I use a thin piece of sheet plastic (like from plastic tool packaging or a plastic milk jug) to force glue into the joint.
How could you take a cutting board apart. There are many seams with gaps and some wood strips has come off. Should I use a mineral spirit and wipe and pry. I'm insure. Never done one before.
One mor ees question tg ion. What kind of oil would you use for a CV cutting board without it being toxic. Sorry like I said. I ve never done thus. I'm just an old drywall hanger and finisher but I kive working with wood.
You do not have a good joint there; better to resaw the whole joint, then flatten the offending piece(s) and re-glue. If you insist on just re-gluing it and hoping the glue will permanently resist the wood's force, use dental floss or equivalent to pull the glue fully into the split as mentioned by another poster AND use epoxy glue that is formulated to fill less than tight joints and will be stronger. Sucking glue into my vac is not what I will ever do.
@@bhough410 All epoxy, once dried, will be safe. In this kind of repair, it is also within the joint so not exposed to anything. As far as surface sealing, I use either or both mineral oil and pure tung oil (emphasis on the "pure"). Tung will darken the wood more than mineral oil and, in some cases, helps to blend variations in the wood better.
