Thank you for the video. I am having the same problem. So I hired a plumber to fix the valve. When he looked at the it, he said it was okay for it to leak a little bit. So he didn't even try to fix the valve. I can't fix it myself, I am severely disabled. But at least with your video, I can show the next person I hire to do the job correctly. Thank you.
Great Video. Thanks to you I now feel confident to fix the leak in my valve. Unlike most DIY videos where usually an expert walks you through the steps without any challenges, your video was so refreshing and real. This is exactly the kind of experience I face whenever I try to repair anything. I could totally relate to your struggles of trying to unscrew the valve 🙂. Well done. Thank you again.
Thanks for the video. It helped me figure out how to take that cover off but I didn’t have to replace mine. Just gave it a good cleaning and put it back on and it worked.
Using the wrenches correctly makes the struggle go away. As soon as you used the correct techniques it happened instantly. Pipe and channel pliers are directional!
After looking at your video, I went to Home Depot and picked up the kit, changed the valve cap and Voila.. the leak stopped...YEAH!..Thanks for the video. But my sprinkler out front is still leaking even with new heads, clean out and replaced with new sprinkler parts...a Girls yard work is never done :)
Hi I thoroughly enjoyed your video! Being an old (71) lifetime avoidant, non-mechanical klutzy introverted, feeling-thinking-intuitive kind of guy--I never even thought of trying such a task until recently! Thanks to my Guru-father-You Tube and videos like yours! You have the same "Irritrol 2711 I do! I bought the same Lawn Genie Home Depot replacement 54000--but was disappointed to find that it does not have hex screws! This means that if you ever need to check or replace the "diaphragm" (as I did) you will be more likely to strip the screws. (you do need a hex bit-a small electric screwdriver is fun, handy and helps too!) I want to stay with the original 2711 APR Irritrol, even if I have to buy it from a special irrigation shop, they charge maybe 4-5 dollars more. Also I am thinking about getting the "jartop" non-screw, twisting, Irritrol 2711 DPR model when I am ready to cut and glue in a new entire valve. Opening stuck or too tight tops it seems, might be easier with a more efficient and easy to handle tool than a plumber's wrench. I am going to try a large "channel pliers", like the 3.5 inch jaw 16 inch Doyle at Harbor Freight (the cheapest--$19 I could find). Again-thank you for your video and your channel--so helpful, inspiring and enjoyable! Ed
Such fun isn’t it? I have a plier but it definitely wasn’t big enough. That would have been much easier than the super heavy wrench I used. Have you been able to get everything fixed? Thank you so much for watching!
I had to do the same repair, but the problem was my anti-siphon valve is up against the house with no room to fit a wrench. After trying various tools (including one I bought from amazon) and squishing my finger, I finally found a solution. A C-clamp screwed over the top of the cap and clamped onto the sides gave enough grip to remove the cap. Plus the torque is centered over the pipe, which keeps it from bending like when you use a wrench.
Thanks for the video, tuning up my sprinklers and found I'm in the same boat, P/N: L31100 shield cap kit for the Lawn Genie 54000 (RJ711) is the fix..!! 👍
This video was entertaining and made me smile- not recommended to use as a fix but appreciate the hands on approach. Should replace the entire valve- you need a pvc cutter and glue but is easy enough. Thanks.
Good for your tenacity and not giving in. A couple of things, use the channel locks on the cap, not the pipewrench. Caps will always turn counter-clockwise to come off, not clockwise. Then, hand tighten the cap when putting it back on. Too much torque over time can crack the cap. The bottom connection is screwed on, then glued, so it's not coming off ever. How'd I learn all this? Plenty of mistakes! Good for you, and keep up the good work!
You were lucky in how you took that top of because you could have broken the pipe on the valve. I saw a video of how one guy did this. Take your hand and place it between two valves, which will help hold the other valve so it does not twist as you remove the top of the valve with another hand. Don't let the valve twist or the pipe will break. Good video.
For those who have to do this... just take the siphon cap off and clean the plunger with a toothpick or simular item. These parts don't wear they get dirty with hard water. Save yourself the 24 bucks.
Before replacing that vent cap, I removed mine and turned the water back on to flush any debris that maybe causing it to leak including the popet valve. After reinstalling the vent cap, my leak stopped. I'm surprised at how much "stuff" comes in through the municipal water supply. The smallest bit of debris apparently can cause a leak.
Thanks for the video suggestion which I tried but I still have to clean the diaphragm(I have to remove 8 quarter inch nuts to access part), to removed debris.
You wait til the sprinkler turns off, and that's when it starts to leak. It takes a while to stop. I wonder if she fixed it or had to replace the diaphragm on the valve
Sounds like a statement from a plumber. Debris is the most common cause of leaks as there is a lot of "stuff" that comes through the municipal water supply.
What if the siphon cap leaks right away when you turn the water pressure back on? I've replaced,washed and inspected three valve caps and it continues to leak a lot when the water is on.
Hi, I have several Orbit anti-siphon values installed. There are water leakings from the ani-siphone cap/lids. It could cost more than $100 to replace all of them. I wish I could find a place just to buy the O-rings to save some money.
was thinking the same, pretty sure the o-ring is the only thing that could wear out, compress, and start leaking. I know any decent hardware store ( I have Outdoor Supply Hardware near me) has drawers of all sizes of o-rings, should be able to find a replacement.
When I saw her putting the channel locks on the lower parts (after she couldn't remove the cap) I was thinking "Noooooo!!" Luckily she didn't force the issue. While the initial PVC adapter is threaded into the valve body, it's all glued together after that. So no separating it. The adapter was threaded in THEN glued so no undoing it with cutting pipe. Then I saw she didn't take the rubber gasket from the new one and I was again thinking "It's gonna leak". It didn't, but I suspect it will in the future, that rubber gasket is there for a reason. Only thing I would have done additionally is swap the guts of the other side of the valve. Often this is how sprinkler valve repairs are done.....you don't want to get into cutting and gluing pipes so you buy a new valve but just use the guts to replace the guts of the old valve in place.
@@amyaroundthehouse8472 - It's a good way to be....I often tell people to give a repair a shot themselves first, MOST the time you'll succeed and saved your self a lot of money by not hiring someone. Worst case is you have to end up hiring someone and you may be out the cost of some materials. I have saved thousands in labor by learning to be handy. Soon you realize most these things are very basic and simple. I started around houses which then gave me he confidence to start working on my vehicles. Keep it up!!
I have unions on my installation. Makes it easy to replace the whole valve if necessary without cutting and gluing things back together. I guess plumbers like glue because it almost guaratees a future service call to replace the valve when (not if) it fails.
@@danburch9989 _ Or, plumbers like to glue as opposed to using unions because it's cheaper. But knowing mechanism will eventually fail, I like your idea of using unions. That said, nothing about PVC pipes is hard once the pipes are exposed (including cutting and gluing), its the digging that makes it a hassle.
They do sell an orbits repair kit. Since you bought the whole valve you should have just changed the whole thing out. Two cuts, tape up your threaded unions and some Blue glue and you would have been done. That valve will leak again soon.
That's not "fixing", that's replacing. And that's okay but I was hoping to actually fix the old anti-siphon part by replacing a spring or a gasket that's leaking in there.
