Well, we got it started, but it ran poorly with intolerable surging. We then did a carburetor rebuild, and replaced the head gasket. This video shows the before and after....
I have the same mower. Similar symptoms with engine not running well. My issue was the choke on the carb. The choke was stuck in the on position all the time regardless of where the throttle lever was. I replaced the carb and it runs great.
Great video, very informative. You didn't mention the fuel shut-off that looks as if you are reaching for before starting. I have a JD Sabre 1138hs with a Briggs Stratton that when it was turned off, it too, would leak gas via the carb float valve and make it's way into the crankcase via combustion chamber. So after rebuilding carb, I too, installed a fuel shut-off. Ethanol gas has a bad quality about it that causes problems in carburetors. Just wish we still had access to "non-ethanol" gas, we should not have to buy additives to neutralize the corrosive effects of ethanol.
Thanks for the note. Yes, a fuel shut-off valve is nice, especially when you want to store your machine for a while, like over the winter. Just turn off the fuel valve, and then start and run the engine till is uses up the fuel in the carburetor. Sitting for long periods of time with stale ethanol fuel is what compromises these carburetors.
Buckwsr Hello from the great white north in Canada :) I have the same tractor for $60 and looks almost brand new. The problem I am having is the engine runs great on low throttle all the way up to full throttle without an issue. If I engage the mower at about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle it runs perfect. As soon as I throttle it up to full throttle with the mower engaged, it sputters and runs rough with a bit of black smoke out of the exhaust. Almost sounds like it would if I had the choke on, but it isn't. I have cleaned the carb. gave it a full tune up (new oil, filter, air filter, spark plug, fuel filter) and still the same thing happens. I even resorted to replacing the blade spindles on the mower deck because I thought maybe there was too much resistance from the spindle bearings being wore out. Still does the same thing. The only other things I could try is checking the choke linkage, or governor linkage to see if when the mower is engaged and on full throttle if the choke is partially on causing the engine to sputter. The other is like you mentioned in your video is the head gasket might be shot. So my question is, if the head gasket is shot would that cause the engine to sputter at full throttle under load with the mower engaged. I am kind of leaning towards the head gasket because the linkages look fine.
black smoke sounds like a too rich fuel mixture. make sure the carburetor float and needle are working correctly (i.e., not stuck open). Also, if the carb has adjustment screws (can't quite remember), try closing the high speed screw a bit. It might not be adjustable, I can't remember.... And yes, make sure the choke plate if fully wide open. Good luck.
I figured it out, it was the throttle cable where it attaches the the linkage. I just had to loosen the 5/16 screw that secures the throttle cable and move it down about an 1/8". Also there is a small set screw at the back side of the throttle linkage to adjust when you want your choke to engage. It was threaded in all the was so when full throttle was set the choke was patially pushed on. Backed out that set screw and she works like a charm. And thank you for the quick response.
bob Duncan I have the same engine surging, thought this would help me fix it. total waste of time. here is the mower running bad, here is the mower running good. why the H&*( didn't you show what you did to fix it.
Same issues here. Surging and backfiring. Got a service manual ordered. Going to take compression today. Maybe just order a new carburetor from Amazon. Last one I bought (for a Briggs) worked great and was dirt cheap.
@@Buckwsr As it turned out just a good cleaning and blowing out crud and corrosion did the trick. This mower obviously sat out in the weather for a while. The deck is totally rotted out. The engine smokes just a little when up to temp. I'm hoping the rings etc will reseat with use. Fingers crossed....... otherwise it runs great!!!
I have noticed that the carbs on Ebay do not have low speed mixture screws. I bought one and because there is no low speed mixture screw, the transition from idle to higher speeds really suffers. In my view, your best bet is to rebuild the original carb, as the kit is only $6... and that is a Kohler kit. When you turn the carb upside down, make sure the float is as perfectly parallel to the bowl as possible. All of these parts are plastic and they can change dimensions, because the get really hot. Mine was off just a little, so I slipped a small length of shrink tube over the part of the float that presses on the needle. That little bit got it level. Also, surging can be caused by the governor being out of tolerance. It is easy to do and can really make a difference.
@@bbstacker70 I think it depends on the brand of carb and yes you get what you pay for. I have a Mikuni ordered to replace the Chinese carb (as you describe) on a 250 cc Apollo Chinese motorcycle. That and a good after market CDI will make it run like a Honda.
A surging engine....that intolerable racing up and down....is caused by inadequate fuel flow through the carburetor....it's getting too much air and not enough fuel, running too lean. The main jet of the carburetor needs to be cleaned of the built-up varnish and gum that results from an engine sitting for long periods of time with fuel in the carburetor bowl. Very common. This engine, of course, had multiple issues....
Hi. This engine does not have a fuel pump....gas is fed by gravity from the fuel tank to the carburetor. If you mean that fuel is leaking out of the carburetor, then yes, either replace or rebuild the carburetor. Probably the fuel float needle valve is not seating properly. Replacing the carburetor is easier than rebuilding it, but also more expensive.
@@Barbarare1 Hi again, Keith. Just to be clear, you need to look up NOT the tractor make and model, but the ENGINE make and model. In my case, this was a Kohler engine, and there is white sticker on the side of the engine shroud/cover that contains information including the engine model number. This one starts in CV..... I think. With that engine model number there are plenty of sites on line with part lists and diagrams for every engine. jackssmallengines.com, propartsdirect.net, partstree.com, as a few examples. Related question: what do you mean by "ignition coil pick up" and how do you know that is the part you need? Good luck!
And too long of a fuel line , shouldn't have a dip in it , to go back uphill to the carb .Smaller fuel filter , and new fuel line , shorter . I now have this same model , stuck engine though .
@@streamer1884 Is it stuck or seized ? Once you know , basically you have a complete job . That is b, the governor drive gear either drops down off the shaft , wedging itself or worst case scenario is it explodes and destroys the engine . Mine just dropped down . Nothing broken . Replace the governor drive gear ( about $10.00 ) and you're back in business . Remember to take apart the lid of the oil pump so you can wiggle the gears and allow yourself to install the oil pan . Good luck 🤞.
I think it's Kohler part 12-757-01-S. It's also pretty easy and fairly inexpensive to get an aftermarket replacement carburetor to just replace the carburetor with a new one instead of messing with the rebuild.
