I hung and finished rock for years, too many lids have blown the old shoulders out now. For some reason now I find joy in watching others who know what they are doing mudding, it is very relaxing. I have long sold my boxes, knives and bazooka's, really like watching your work.
😂 I've been a grid ceiling contractor since 1983, and when I walk into a commercial office or retail space, the first thing I do is look up to inspect the work quality. 😁
@@stevehairston9940 I’m about to do a drop ceiling in my basement- any recommendations for Armstrong tiles? 2x2 with as much sound deadening as possible.
@@danervin2530 most basements I've seen, are really short on distance between the basement floor and floor joists above. I don't know about your particular job site conditions, but I've installed what is called High NRC (noise reduction coefficient) tile. It's really thick and soft tile for absorbing/deadening sound. It's high dollar tile though, probably between 7 to 10 dollars a sq. ft. Home improvement stores won't have it. You'd have to special order it through a drywall contractor supply company and it might take several weeks to come in. I think your best option is to lay in your tile as you hang your grid and lay UNfaced R19 sound Batt insulation on top as you go. It'll be much easier that way. Check with your local commercial drywall suppliers for pricing before buying from a home improvement store. Drywall suppliers sell higher grade materials, where as HI stores sell cheap thin grid that gets bent/dinged up really easy. Armstrong is imho the worst clg material there is. Chicago Metallic is my go to brand. The grid is much stiffer and fissures in the tile are much more consistent with a better and brighter finish Have you ever installed clg grid before? Don't hesitate to ask any questions you might have, I'll help as best I can through RU-vid. I've been in the clg business since the early 80s, so I know a thing or two about grid and tile. Hope this helps.
@@stevehairston9940 appreciate it! We’ve got a drywall supply house just down the street, I never even thought to ask what they can get. Slab to joist clearance is a generous 98” thankfully, with only a little soffit run for mechanicals, so I think it should turn out nice in the end. I’m not a contractor, just a guy that likes to pretend I’m one 😆.
It makes me feel better when I see a pro take this long to make a nice wall. It feels like it takes an absurd amount of effort to fix up all the walls in a house and paint them properly.
I love the repair content. Thank you for giving me knowledge and confidence with drywall work. I took notice you floated the whole wall and no cow patties on the floor😀
Man, I am so glad you mentioned that they live in an identical floor plan. Had an extreme déjà-vu when you walked in 😀 Your videos are so good and I learned so much! Saved me a lot of money, cheers...
learned a lot from watching you work the knives throughout your videos and am so much better just doing home fixes and stuff for myself...you still make it look easy...lol love your channel! Cheers.
Hi, love your work. I'm a plasterer from Australia, been doing it for close on 45 years now. I'm surprised that you don't put expansion joints in stairwells ? Over here the regulation states no more than 2 1/2 boards stacked on top of each other before you put in an expansion joint. This stops the boards from "peaking" & also cracking through the joint. In stairwells we normally cover it (if the owner doesn't like the expansion joint) with a piece of decorative trim fixed to either the top or bottom board but not both. Stay safe & keep on smiling. 👍🦘
When you’re “scraping” your first coat of quick set if you dampen it with a wet sponge you can smooth it out cleaner and if you do pull out a divot you will have access on your blade to refill the damage.
Hey man, Kevin here from Australia. Looks like another successful repair job. And i certainly learnt something so i definitely gave that like button a feathering. Stay safe man and keep healthy. ✌ Peace
I have a 14" trowel but I haven't used it so much and I definitely don't get your results, I get by with a 10" knife and plenty of sanding lol. No I am not a professional drywaller though I have done more than enough drywall in my life. Thx for sharing Van Carpenter
Hey Ben 👋! I'm really enjoying your new videos, now that you switched to 1080p quality, the details are much more noticed and we can see better what your talking about. Also, I really enjoying seeing you laugh and be happy, it makes you look like a beautiful person. Just being honest lol 🤓🤓😂
For real, my local lumber yard is selling 3/4 CDX for the same price as cabinet grade 3/4 birch. Heck I’ve sold pretty much all my left over lumber from past jobs for 120% the cost and it was still cheaper than buying new.
Hey Love your channel!!! It has helped me immensely and given me a lot of encouragement with a remodel that we've been doing in our backyard office. Lots of sheetrock taping and texturing and sanding. Hey man, can you do a show on how you edit the videos and film? Sounds like you use final cut pro and it looks like you're using a Canon R6. I do some videography, and it's always interesting to see how the other RU-vidrs are putting their shows together. Thanks again for all the great work you're doing and inspiration. Brad in California.
So I thought you need to first put a coat of primer after you scraped off the paper layer of the drywall? Can you explain why the primer was not needed in this case? Also, I have a room in my 30 year old house with vertical peaks (not horizontal )....anything different I should do? Thank you...I love your videos and appreciate the extra time you invest on your jobs to make them.
Overwhelmed home owner whose house is falling apart. In US what glue should be purchased to add to mud (after being thinned out)? I have so many repairs to tackle and your videos will help with most!! Thank you!
I used good old Elmers white glue per VC. Worked like a champ! Can’t even see my California patches thanks to actually becoming a student of a master.🤘
Crowned joints I always get asked to fix these lot of work.. most home owners don't understand how u have to coat each side Bute joint coat it to feather it out once crowned it's always there all u can do feather it out
i’m confused. In the UK plasterers always a seem to use this stuff called thistle multi-purpose, and it finishes like glass without the need for sanding. It’s a ruddy pink colour when first applied and dries to a light pastel pink.
It’s funny, in America/Canada mesh tape is considered rubbish and unreliable etc, in England I’ve yet to go to any repair job where it wasn’t paper tape that had blistered or lifted off, same goes for the angle beads etc. I know we use a different system here in general ie actually plastering the whole wall rather than jointing but yeah, never gone to any job where it was mesh tape that had failed
I think the problem is people want "quick and easy." I’ve never had mesh tape fail, but I always use heavy mud for the first coat, then switch to light for the finish. Most people don’t want to do that. They just want to use all purpose mud, which cracks easily.
Depends on who you ask. Folks who have always used paper tape will crap on anything that they don't use, same that any other construction folks do. In my limited experience the only serious issues I've seen in homes has been due to paper tape joints and some no tape at all. But that could simply be because of the fact that almost all joints were done with paper, not because it is failing more often.
Is there ever a time you can leave faint peaked joints and skim over them? I'm repairing some water damage on the ceiling, but we've also got some peaked joints that have been there for years. I'm also redoing the texture in the entire room from a terrible old texture job anyway. Your videos have been so helpful.
It depends if its very lose tape me I cut it then I get a feel for if I need to dug & pull the tape out or just cut a later of texture paint then float it out
instead of carving out a V, can you just ripe out the old tape entirely? that way you're not putting tape on a surface that already has tape? and making the wall bow out even more and don't have to build out as much?
Pretty similar to what I do, just a little different: 1. Relief cut a along joint with 1/4" router bit. 2. V groove relief cut with utility knife to remove burred paper and give more area for mud to key into area. 3. Sand area with 80 grit sand paper to remove some of the hump 4. Now I screw 3 screws on both top and bottom along joint. I do it now because with the relief cut, it will pull the drywall flatter to the studs. Two of the sccrews are used to pull drywall closer, the third screw is used to cap existing fastener so it doesn't move again. 5. Prefill / key in brown bag quickset for base coat, it dries harder than easy sand 6. Scrape then burn area with 5 minute easy sand quickset. 7. A coat of 5 minute quickset on bad areas of joint to try to level out repair. 8. Skim area with 5 minute quick set 9. Finish coat with some regular easy sand mud 10. Come back next day, scrape and prefill any holes or imperfections with 5 minute quickset, then finish sand. *this was my tapeless method, the keyed in brown bag quickset replaces the tape, but you could tape it between steps 6 & 7
I need to learn about sanding. It would be helpful. I've been trying to make it perfect like a sheet of glass with no lines or imperfections. Idk what can be sanded out.
Or... For such a critical prefill, use Durabond, and excellent primer before. I love your videos, I don't have a problem with longer ones like this since you also make little short ones too.
have this peaked drywall joint issue in my house all over the main floor, esp on the ceiling, such a headache, gonna be a huge proj for me soon, ouch :P
I'm curious, at what magnitude of drywall damage, would it be easier to replace the drywall instead of all the spot fixing and skimming of everything, tantamount to a totaled vehicle, easier to replace then fix each broken part? My concerns would be drywall strength (someone anchors/nails something into hot or all purpose joint compound which maybe not as strong as the drywall/paper combination and the STC level in those spots...yes, you can still hit those joint parts without the patches, but the probability is greater (more surface area) with the patches of doing that)
Sorry if I missed it. Can you skim coat over a painted wall? Or, do you have to put on 1 coat of primer first? It appears you did a coat of primer, but wanted to be sure of the exact rule or proper way to fix a painted wall. Great video, thank you!
Hey VC, always dig the videos. Fellow Vancouverite here. Curious if you have an opinion on this product vs something like confil which I've usually used in larger holes /structural preventative fixes like this. Just wondering if you have data points. Thanx
I have noticed that you do not use stud adhesive when fixing dry wall sheets to the wall and ceiling. Why not?? We use stud adhesive here in Australia. Love your program. Cheers
Never knew such a thing existed until I saw drywall being laid up in a video from Australia. We just screw the Hell out of the sheets here in the U.S. and Canada. They stay put with no problem.
@@oltedders We use both together the screws and stud adhesive here in Australia. Only problem with stud adhesive is when you remove the dry wall sheets from the wall you then have to go around with a 2" chisel and clean off the rock hard adhesive from the wall studs. Cleaning up the studs is time consuming.
@@markschleich2875 The nailing (screw) pattern I was taught uses 39 screws for a 4'x8' foot sheet of drywall (plasterboard) over studs on 16" inch centers. It does a great job of holding it fast with no movement in the future, unless the building settles. In that instance, stress cracks are the usual result, never peaked joints. With all of those screws, if you have to remove (or move) a sheet, which is easy enough to do, your sheet is so full of holes that it's tricky trying to put it back up.
@@markschleich2875 That is probably why we don't use it here. Some folks might but it isn't common to my knowledge and isn't part of code requirements. Isn't needed for holding it up of course and this video's issue isn't common if it is screwed in well, including double screws spaced an inch or two apart for those who really want to prevent screw pops. Only see glue and screws for things like flooring sheets (and that is to help prevent squeaks).
Hello, I've been following you for awhile and great content. I hesitated doing my drywall and I screwed up. Ended up with butt joints everywhere. I managed to feather out on second coat but, and a big BUT 2 separate sections the tape is "furry" if that makes any sense. From my sanding the second coat in areas I went to heavy on. I don't know what to do next? Cut out the tape and mud again? Mud over?
I have done my own drywall mudding and I’m reasonably happy with the results , except for 1 column I did . After 2 coats of primer and some new pot lights I’ve discovered a ripple washboard affect and a lift off mark . What do I need to do fix this
Careful with that flimsy little plank, I had one break and fell on my hip, been struggling with pain for about a decade now, don't want to see you in the same position.
Imagine your shock if you walked into the identical floor plan house and found the same horrible textured walls. Like some kind of nightmare that keeps repeating over and over again :)
I have a 42 yr old home with heavy crow's feet textured walls showing peaked joints all over (horizontal as well as vertical). Is it acceptable to just skim coat the walls, or do I need to cut out all the joints and refill? I want smooth walls.
@@pearlperlitavenegas2023 Thank you. They are solid. You can step back and see where the seams are. I do have some corners that need redoing due to foundation movement. UGH
15:50 Why doesn't he skim out the 3'x1.5' above the door? That's the kind of thing that makes me feel like I got rolled when I pay people to do work :/ I understand that you have to stop somewhere, unless the customer wants every patch to be an entire skim coat. But when you're covering 8'x8' or whatever... it's not like the product is expensive, or mixing and applying the extra 5sqft is a significant amount of labor. That is the example of why I DIY. No offense to the people who take pride in their work & go the extra mile to deliver value. I'm sorry that it's so difficult to know which of you are which. Hope I find people like you in life
It might be your water quality. For example, minerals, salt and hot water can make muds dry much more rapidly then normal. I don't know the exact science behind it, but I do know that its a very basic chemical reaction. If you live in rural areas, and get well water, then that it your culprit. Because we'll water tends to be full of minerals. To remedy this you can use purified Municipal chlorine tap water. OR you can use a higher time mud to compensate for your water. But make sure you use cold/room temperature water either way. Best of luck 👍
Often times it is from old work that was nailed in place. Seasonal changes in temperature and settling loosen the nails and the joints peak. We use screws now and peaking is not as problematic as before. Old timers used to nail in pairs 1" to 2" apart. It minimized any movement of the drywall. Each nail would hold the other in place and made for a very stable wall.
Benny boy - the guy gives step by step instructions on how to properly mix tape in mud on his youtube channel. I'm surprised you mixed it wrong, again. Lol.
VC have you ever tried the SYNCO CONCRETE FILL? It basically has those fibers and glue already in there, just add water and your golden! My drywaller is sworn by that stuff and so am I. They sell it at home depot. www.homedepot.ca/search?q=Concrete%20fill#!q=Concrete%20fill You can use 100% of it or simply add 50/50 with your regular mud.
You're braver than me getting out of the comfort zone by trusting an unproven product on the entirety of a job. I'd of slipped the unproven product on a small portion because then if it failed the correction would be minor.
@@vancouvercarpenter I saw the vid where you winged it on the mixing ratios. I just meant unproven as in the long term. But you seem to trust it and since you've used it before then go with the gut.
Thank you for the tips! This is my procrastination project ( I think some of have those that we dread). I have four or five of these in our family room and two in the hallway with different colour walls. You have given me the impetus to get this done. Thank you!
You’re the BEST my go to for drywall help! I’m female and untrained however I looove doing the work! I mean I love that when I apply myself, I can get it done well!!! I’m trying to find how to fix butt joints (I theenk that’s what they’re call, when the drywall is butted up to closely together (?)) do I pull it out like you did then use kilz and spackle over? Or tape & spackle over? BYW I’m mostly using premixed Joint CP because the mixing SUCKS (😂). Is that so bad? Just bought this house and trying to get things done … BETTER! PS I am perusing a bunch of your videos I hope I find the answer! PPS Ignore the haters, they’re clueless!
is it good idea adding fiberglass pieces into mud? You can take in your lung fiberglass when is dry or sanding . I think not good idea for health. Otherwise you can trip all hospital all your life!
Are you on the Tok too? I chrome cast your vids all the time. But I haven’t found a way to ask ya for advice via video on here like I can there. I have a problem with glass tape that I can’t explain in text. I want to fix my errors.
