In this video, I show how to fix a squeak coming from your rear drum brakes, This applies to pretty much any car with drum brakes, although the car in the video is my 2003 Honda Civic.
For those having a hard time removing the rear drum cover, easy way is find a screw that threads into those small holes on the drum, thread them in slowely, alternate between top and bottom and it will push the drum off the hub. They were designed for that purpose.
You’re the man. That was my problem too with my 1st gen Tacoma rear drums. I checked for signs of metal to metal rubbing and found it. Put some grease and the squeak is gone. Saved a lot time in diagnosing the problem. Thank you.
Thanks for the video, I fixed my squeak because of it! I didn't even take off the springs, just the tabs. I just pulled on the pads and applied the anti-seize.
I have very similar problem after the recent heavy rain fall. You did a very good job to illustrate the scope of the job and some possible challenges. Thanks!
Just a FYI when taking off a stuck drum something he didnt mention.. There are two screw holes on the drum not everyone knows what they are for! I recently learned myself if your drum is super stuck! Purchase two M8 1.25 x 40 bolts and screw them into the drum (there are 2 holes, 180 degrees opposite each other at the inner part of the drum). Using a socket, turn each bolt, alternating between the two and slowly turn the bolts clockwise. This will cause the drum to loosen up and come off of the wheel hub
Just bought a Milwaukee Lithium. impact wrench and it is a beast. Watch your language Matt, mechanics do not swear. BTW, Ceramic ultra high temp lube is a better option than anti-seize. It is super sticky and will last longer on rub points. if you have use anti-seize, make sure it is copper-based. As far as drum brake parts go--or any brake parts, log on to Rock auto and always buy premium brake parts. You won't regret it and squeaks will be non-existent. Torquing the lugs with your impact is a big no-no. I have had shops over tighten lugs so that when you get a flat you cannot remove the lugs. Note: I now carry the Milwaukee impact with me, especially on the RV. These new impacts are so powerful they can actually snap off lug studs. Use a torque wrench or if you don't have one, a breaker bar, or if you don't have one, a ratchet, or if you don't have one, a large wrench. Forget organic or semi metallic pads or shoes and ante up a few more $ and go ceramic. Won't squeak, stops faster, and no brake dust. So there.
What you describe sounds like worn front brake pads. There is a little metal tab that scrapes against the rotor when the pads are low and makes the sound you describe when you brake lightly. You might want to check that first.
The 2 threaded holes in the drum are for 8x1.25mm bolts, that’s how you remove the drums if they are stuck on. Not all cars have them, but if they do it’s a much better way than hammering on the drum.
It is not recommended to apply solvent liquid or oils on the brake Lining. It can damage the Lining properties and impact the Drum Brake functioning. it is necessary to take care during the springs removal or re-assembly in order to avoid load loss due to higher compression or traction of the spring. Spring load loss can lead to an inadequate behavior of the brake during the pedal brake application.
Does it matter that you put the lower spring in the opposite way round. I am assuming this is ok but I just want to double check. Thanks for the video! It's very helpful
There are usually two holes treaded into the drum or rotor for use in case you have a drum or rotor that's seated too tight. on my 2014 Yaris they are M8x1.25 anything longer than an inch should be long enough.
Good video and help too...thanks. Now, do you ever thought if may drip or get any dirty of grease on brake pad, if they happens the car longer will hang (break) correctly. I think these parts are to be thoroughly cleaned without any type of grease ... for example when you do break clean with break spray cleaner, is leave all break parts free of any grease dirt ... right ...? I have squeak noise too... just to let you know...i like to solve that... i strongly want to the same as you did on video...but... i wonder... they not came with grease on drum brake, at the same time they dont make any squeaky noise too, thats for sure... once again i thank you for your help and video, leave feed back, please. keep it up with good work mate. (please post more videos if you like, it helps lot) Regards
My noise is so hard to explain but I have discs in the front drums in the back and when push on the brakes I hear an odd sound from the back it’s not a grinding sound or a squeak it’s more the squeak and grind together it’s really hard to explain. Since drum brakes have there parts enclosed maybe there’s dirt rubbing around in there. Nothing is leaking cause I see no brake fluid dripping it’s just loud and if I can hear it in the car with the doors closed windows closed and radio on then it obviously loud outside the car.
I just did a brake job on my 03 Nissan Frontier with all new hardware, shoes, wheel cylinders and my rear brakes make a "howl" sound but only when I brake in reverse. All contact points are lubricated and the drums are in good shape. Any ideas?
I have had 2 mx5 miatas 2016 GT and 2019 GT both started to squeak after less than 4000 miles only in reverse and only rear brakes squeak not that bad but it must be the nature of the beast must be the factory pads they use not that big of a deal at this time still absolutely love the car
I've worked on quite a few of these and never have they come off like that, they've either needed winding off with a tool and smashing with hammer and then ripping the whole lot off and replacing, you shouldn't be putting brake cleaner directly on shoes 👍👍👍
The squeak I have is a loud squealing noise when I lightly brake, however I am going to try this. I suppose it'll work since the noise came after I changed the drums and shoes.
Hi Cory, it sounds like I have the same problem that you did. I have one rear brake that squeals like a pig! I am wondering if using anti seize worked for you? If it didn't work for you, because it didn't for me oh, what did you do?
Yeah I love that electric impact. In some cases it is better than an air impact gun. I am not sure why some cars choose to have drums in the back. There must be SOME advantage to it.
It is by Permatex. "Anti-Seize lubricant" Any auto parts store should have it. Grease will eventually dry up and cause the squeak to return. (As you have found out)
Whats the name of that antifreeze compound? I put drum brake grease when I replaced the pads of my 01 civic and resurfaced the drums but weeks later the squeaking noise came back.
good video, but you should buy a multipurpose brake tool. I was wincing watching you put that lower spring back on, good way to embed it into your hand. Be careful I'm off to do my wife's brakes, now I know what to expect. thanks.
shoot ive been dealing with it for the past 4 months driving an hour in to work you should be fine unless you start to feel a shaking sensation when you break
Pads are for disc brakes, shoes are for drum brakes (not important, but I thought I should clarify) I assume you have drums. The most important thing in my book is to get good quality shoes. The cheap-o shoes tend to make more noise than the good ones. The fact that the noise happens when coming to a stop and not during braking or un-braking tells me the noise is coming from the shoes making contact with the drum. You can try new drums. I don't know if that will solve the issue though. Did you get quality shoes?
Gina Gina Not necessarily true. The rear brakes only do roughly one-third of the braking while the front brakes do more of the work, regardless of whether you have rear drum or disc brakes. Drum brakes aren't necessarily weaker, after all most cars up through the 1950s had four wheel drum brake systems and cars back then were extremely heavy. In fact, the Jeep CJ-5, which was built exclusively for the US postal service had drum brakes on all four wheels right up until it was discontinued in 1984.
Gina Gina Not necessarily true. The rear brakes only do roughly one-third of the braking while the front brakes do more of the work, regardless of whether you have rear drum or disc brakes. Drum brakes aren't necessarily weaker, after all most cars up through the 1950s had four wheel drum brake systems and cars back then were extremely heavy. In fact, the Jeep CJ-5, which was built exclusively for the US postal service had drum brakes on all four wheels right up until it was discontinued in 1984.
This is exactly whats happening on mine, and it goes away when i engaged the parking brake first then release the brake pedals. Now i know what to do! thanks!
just used sand paper scrub at the break shoe and the break drum....then spray it with break cleaner then install the break drum......no sound at all while pull up the handbreak.....no need to take out spring put grease...
The only reason for loosening the nut before jacking it up is so that when you spin it off with the wheel in the air, the wheel doesn't spin. When you have an impact wrench, you do not have to loosen before you lift the car up since the wheel wont spin.
MattsMotorz Basically true, though one additional good reason to loosen them beforehand is that once the car is up on the jack and/or jack stands, the less you jerk around the vehicle, the better. Though granted, as you said, this applies more to people who are using lug wrenches/breaker bars/ratchets than to those using an impact wrench. I like to get into good habits, and follow safety precautions anyway, after all, maybe some day your impact wrench won't be available and you'll l have to do it the old fashioned way. We have to break them loose anyway, so no reason not to do it before. Thanks for the video!!
