May 2023: Sir, while on a Stateside visit this month, I had to do this repair on my daughter's 2010 Honda Fit. Thanks to you, I was spared a $900 parts & labor charge. I can't tell you how grateful I am to you for taking the trouble to figure out this lock actuator motor R&R, filming the repair, and then sharing your knowledge with the world. Heeding your warnings - particularly the mistakes you made - I played and replayed parts of your vid to get it right, exactly right; I felt like a watch maker or jeweler. At the conclusion of this project the (1) door opened and closed and (2) the lock actuator worked. Incredible. Total cost: $9 for the lock actuator motor including shipping. Greetings from a very satisfied and grateful viewer in Beirut, Lebanon.
You are a boss! Everyone else is just swapping parts, but YOU took that little bastard apart and found a cheap solution and showed all of us how it works! That is exceptional, and I thank you bud - great work!
Be warned if you have a non-US market Jazz/Fit. I am attempting this repair on an Australian market 2009 Jazz, front left side door. The locking module has a different design to what is shown here - I don't know if it's because it's a front door instead of a rear door, but it's similar enough that this video is still super useful. HOWEVER I've run into trouble. The motor in mine has a different length shaft! It's a 20mm shaft not 10mm. I had already bought the replacement motor based on the info in this video before I disassembled everything. Sadly the 10mm shaft is not long enough to reliably hold the worm gear. All I could find was a pack of four motors as well, so now I have four useless-to-me 10mm shaft motors and I have to wait for the 20mm shaft versions to arrive (again, could only find a 4 pack) before I can put the car back together. I originally tried to find an entire replacement locking module. But the left side is the passenger side here in Oz, and all I could find were left side modules for US market Fits, which would be drivers side modules. I didn't want to take a chance that a US drivers side module would work in my passenger door - the electrics on the drivers side might be different! So I decided to attempt the motor-only fix as done here. Which would have gone great if I had the correct motor! Fun times.
Thank you for taking the time to post this. Your effort will no doubt save hundreds of people the expense of Honda's faulty design which is common to many models. I wish I had come across this earlier, after spending $975.00 Australian to purchase all four locks . I was quoted $1420.00 through my local Honda dealer, parts only.
Thank you for posting this video. I followed your instructions and was able to replace the motor in the actuator on my 2010 Honda Fit. Honda also quoted me $500 to replace the actuator and the actuator replacements that I found online were around $140. I purchased only the motor for $10 on Amazon, so you helped me save a ton of money. I'm sorry that you got the lock stuck shut, but I'm thankful that you explained very clearly how NOT to do that in this video. Thanks again!
i rebuilt the driver door actuator on my 09 fit without removing the plastic tab holding the metal pushrod bc i did NOT want to destroy the plastic which would have left me without a part basically. kinda pushed it out of the way while attached to that rod, was able to get the cover off to access the motor. tested before i put back in the door with a screw driver in the locking mech, pulled the push lines and it worked as should. so far no more clicking!!! thanks mrleanandfresh for the guidance.
I agree with James above. The actuator isn’t that expensive especially if you go aftermarket. Honda charges a fortune for the labor. Buy the whole actuator and install it yourself for $55 and don’t risk your doors being stuck closed. Sawing into your car door to get it open is not fun and not a worthwhile risk. Just did my back door on an 08 accord with OEM parts in an hour for under $55. Pretty easy process and still saved $300 for an hour of easy labor.
I was going to say something similar. This is GREAT information, and I don't discount that at all, but the parts cost has dropped significantly-- I recently purchased the driver's side front door lock actuator from Amazon for $48. I live in Alaska, or I'd have gone to a local auto parts shop, but they were $81 here on island. It also gave me an excuse to replace the door speakers on both front doors with Alpines from Crutchfield for another $119-- you know-, since I was in there anyway!
Interesting to see how this all works. I’m surprised Honda and Acura have not re-designed this mechanism. There should be a recall. What is causing this to fail? Many thanks for the video keep them coming.
Thanks for this. I might open the actuator for my CRV and see if just replacing the motor will fix it. I already bought one but Ill have another on hand.
I wish I would have seen this video sooner!! I got a new one for $100 but it "broke" about a month after having it. I wish I would have kept the original one! Guess it's too late to try it this way?
Hello. I’m having the same issue but my door is stuck closed. Is there any way to manually unlock the door and child safety lock on the actuator? Thank you !
I have an 08 fit and we replaced the lock actuator with no luck so now I’m wondering if it’s the motor. Can you please post the amazon link for the motor?
My lock works, but makes a loud, horrible noise. I've dealt with it, but I'm always worried something in the actuator is going to fail. Did I hear a little grindy squeak noise when you locked the door at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OSCoKGYsGwQ.html ? I'm hoping that it isnt a worn gear or something else. What do you think that little noise was (is?) for you? Once I decide to tear it all down (using this video as a guide) my answer should be right in front of me. Fingers crossed. Thank you!
Mine makes a loud kind of whirring noise each time it tries to lock/unlock that lasts about a full second. It locks unlocks fine, even though the lock switch kind of sticks and is stiff to move, but the sound is the annoying part. Will this fix that issue? Anyway I appreciate you making this video!
Hi, great video. Can you describe what your symptoms were? We have a 07' CRV, and the front passenger lock is unlocking by itself, right after I lock it with the FOB. I found the was a TSB and a class action suit. Honda would repair but only until a 2015 deadline. I was looking for info on why the actuators were failing, and came across your video. The Fit actuator looks identical to the CRV actuator. So it comes down to the motor? It's the motor that fails? Why would it unlock? Would it be because it fails to overcome a spring load in the latch or something?
Reform Riverside Essentially the locks we're not looking or unlocking when they should. When the driver's side lock stopped working, the doors would constantly lock and unlock because the sensor detecting the lock position was showing that the door wasn't locked when it should be. Changing out the motor worked for that issue. But you should double check that the driver's side door is actually locking from the inside. If it is not, then this will solve the problems. If it is locking and then unlocking, then your issue may like elsewhere.
Am fixing a passenger driver side door actuator my question is how do I find it in Amazon ? I been trying hard like typing my year model and the word door actuator and nothing pops up
Sorry if stupid question but why does the whole window have to be taken out to fix the door lock? Any way to keep it rolled up? or does in need to be down/out of the way to take out the bits to get to the locking mechanism?
jannaqiao Apologize for the late reply, the window has to be taken out because the rear channel that holds the window in place needs to be moved to allow removal of the actuator. With the window rolled up the channel is unable to move out of the way enough to allow access and removal.
@@Mrcleanandfresh I’m years late on this, but I followed your steps for one door and it worked. Then I went to fix a second door, and figured out that you do not actually have to remove the window. You can just unscrew the bottom screw for the central channel and move that with the window up to get the actuator out. It makes the process twice as fast.
I just discovered a little trick if it is the drivers(master lock) Just disconnect the lock wire and THen the FOB will work fine. The actuator will work again for a while longer. How much longer. I don;t know. TO be seen. . :-)
In general, your video is good. But you failed to mention a single thing about the cable connecting the outside door key cylinder to the actuator. On my 2011 Fit, on the driver's door, the plastic clip that keeps this cable in the actuator broke and needed to be replaced. Only a $4 part. But, when broken, because this cable can't then move, it jams the locking and unlocking of the door from either the key or the key fob. The result is that you can lock the door no problem, but you cannot unlock it, And, if you can't unlock the drivers' door, none of the other doors will unlock either. And only the driver's door has a key cylinder. Even the real hatch does not have a key cylinder. I was majorly bummed when your video didn't show any ofr this
David Crandon Apologies, I only filmed the rear doors even though I eventually did replace the driver's side. Unfortunately I didn't film the driver's side. I don't recall it being too different from the rear doors or too difficult to remove.
