FIXING my unipolar 3D printer! | part 16 (new wheels) 

Little correction thanks to patrons pointing it out: ABS isn't actually a high strength plastic like I implied at all, it's just an engineering plastic and stiffer than HDPE. I chose it because it's easily obtainable (the chassis of like 80% of appliances is made from it) though I did some research after the fact and from what I can tell aside from machining its other properties actually make it rather indesirable for wheels like this. PETG would definitely be preferable, maybe even PLA would work. Ultimately though POM or PC would be the way to go.

Damn, your ghetto lathing with the drill press is very impressive, I'd never have thought of that.

Your summary as to WHY you did all of this makes a weird sort of sense! But knowing it to be true by trial and error is always a good lesson to learn. Keep up the exploration and learning and thnaks for taking us along for the journey (which is the best part of reaching the destination)

I'd never thought to use a drill press as a mini-lathe. Gives me something to think about!

Yep, two bearings are better than one. And if you ever build a lathe or mill, you actually need two pairs of bearings for the spindle. Even expensive bearings always seem to have one point in their rotation where there's just a bit of jiggle, and under heavy cutting forces it causes terrible vibration. But with two at each end of the shaft, one still supports the load when the other crosses its jiggle angle.

Ah yes, another banger of a video! I think some (only some) rigidity of a new V-roller is added by the fact you mount them with plastic adapter to the correct diameter of bolt, not with wooden screws with no material between id of the bearing and screw Direct drive is certainly a great upgrade, can't wait for X and Y axis motion system video.

7:45 You need a step drill! They only cost a few bucks and are great for keeping centered when enlarging holes.

I don't know if your audience knew, but a wood frame 3D printer was a buzz in 2014 with Printrbot Simple 1405, like Prusa made the buzz in the community one year later with the Prusa I3, killing the market with reliable printer. The Printrbot simple (wood) was my first 3D printer and I learn a lot about set and manage trouble on printing PETG at the time. Thank you for remind it me to this great time ! Not building my 4th printer all from the ground, CoreXY 500x500x600mm with enclosure !

Benjamin is like "Upgrades People, Upgrades!", but All the Rails are now Silky Smooth!

now to the part where the printer starts to print parts for itself make it a new series,its gonna be exciting with your creativity and CAD

FDM printers are actually very good at round parts, better than SLA because they are baisically vector drawings stacked on top of each other. I'm pretty sure ABS rollers can be feasibly printed even on this printer prior to this video (still with milled HDPE rollers), if the issue with homing is solved of course.

great job!

❤

23:51 I am not a mechanical expert, but I think the bearings need grease: What you are earing is the ball clicking when going down after rotation. Somebody with more knowledge can confirm ?

Awesome bro 👍

Press the melted plastic directly around the bearing? Shaft inserted to exclude plastic?

Fyi get all that from an old pair of roller blades. You just need to carve the wheel down. Might be too big of a bearing?

the best 👍

I am having trouble in printing can u help me when I start printing the flow rate of filament is low and the extruder is unable to push the filament after 20 secand them temparature is 240% and I'm using nema 17 moters nothing is clogged and I have changed the heater also

Bro please make a video on. Making a letha cnc machine for wood carving. Please create it. Make ditel video on it.

I admire your conviction to stick to making all your own parts BTW while your abusing your power tools, please wear safety glases.

I am still empress with this Alsatian English

was intending to point you to robert murry smith on youtube........ he has a conductive ink but I don't seem able to get it from his store, link not connecting.

Do you have an Amazon wishlist we can buy for you to receive ?

Marlin? Set Z_HOMING_HEIGHT to 0 in order for it not to raise itself on homing attempt. Ask a friendly neighbourhood contributor to the firmware. (hi) Of course when you do 3-axis homing, you have to manually make sure it's high enough to actually accomplish homing. I could just develop a patch that ignores Z_HOMING_HEIGHT, treating it as zero, if Z is already homed and Z isn't part of homing request. ABS has low abrasion resistance. I am not inclined to use it for rolling surfaces. Indeed HDPE would be one of my choices... so it's unfortunte that it didn't quite work out. Maybe it just needs a more supportive geometry, like you're using this time and unlike you're using last time? HDPE is also fairly chemically stable when heated to the melting point which ABS is not, so a lot can go wrong when trying to recycle ABS. I wonder if that's your bubbles. Or just uncured styrene, i mean butadiene is a known styrene polymerisation inhibitor. Honestly i don't understand ABS, i mean i have a vague idea of the chemistry, i just don't know why it is everywhere, since it's actually sort of bad. If you're ordering your rollers off your kind sponsor, they can just do SLS PA(Nylon) which is one of those materials recommended for this sort of thing. This build is absolutely spectacular. 3D printers with a single bearing wheel exist. Geeetech A10, that one has these V-slot extrusion wheels, but they're different from usual in that they only have one bearing. And with rigid plates holding everything together, it actually works fine.

What are the steps u used for z axis in the code

now do core XY :P

Dang the algorithm must be punishing you, i havnet heard anything and decided to check up and sure enough theres 2 videos i havent watched. All i have to say is keep at it, your good, eventually the algorithm will learn. Cool DIY manufacturing techniques and please ventilate that ABS i hear its pretty toxic, Im working on ventilation system before i print anymore, just a box over the printer with a tube and a fan to blow the air toward a window. Resin looks like the way to go for small accurate parts, they have ones out with 12k resolution now i hear. But thats even more toxic then ABS i hear... Anyway I know you love to salvage e-waste and so do I and I had to tell you the e-waste i found the other day. A whole 3d printer! well almost whole, its missing the hot end, and its also made of wood. IM guessing a DIY job from way back when they made them out of wood. Its got dual stepperer motors for the Z, 1 for the Y and even the belt is still intact otherwise it looks like it was burried. Its covered in mud and dirt, but the bed still slides back and forth hehe. The wood parts look CNC cut, maybe it was some kind of kit from way back? Im thinking of resotiring it but had no hope initially, but if you can make a wood 3d printer from scratch... even the rollers... i surely can restore one? Probably not. AnywayI found it on nature trail along a river under a train bridge. Very odd spot for a 3d printer but kind of fitting, being it was made of wood and covered in dirt it felt like it belonged outside, for a hobo to print functional parts like hangers for his wet clothes or something. You should make one out of steel next, you'd be stiffer and more accurate then every printer on the market!

have you tried a direct drive aproach? seems like it could benefit you greatly