Hey, nice to meet you, internet stranger! Welcome to, quite possibly, the trashiest CNC and 3D printing channel out there! On an eternal quest to find answers to the ever-present WHY? Only by doing things the way they really shouldn’t be done can we truly learn why they’re done the way they are in the first place.
I’m Benjamin, and my goal with this channel is to make high-quality, informative, and entertaining engineering videos to spread the joy of making and thinking outside the box to a new generation of makers. If you enjoy going down rabbit holes and having your brain pummeled by a barrage of ostensibly trivial design decisions, maybe give that subscribe button a click to join the ride!
Alucinante, yo usé la cerámica de dos planchas de pelo y un regulador REX-100 y me fabrique un precalentador para desoldar componentes electrónicos,Great job, un saludo.
Hi, I made myself a laser cutter/engraver. When you play with the controls, it actually moves around really good. But when I send a file, it just makes a hole on the material because it turns the laser on but does not move around. I've been stumped for about 7 months. Any and all help is welcomed and appreciated! Thabk you in advance!
you could have used more resistive element than alluminium like nichrome and so improve efficiency of the heating bed by increasing the voltage and leaving out the resistance of the bad connections(because most of power drop will be on resistive element cause has higher resistance)
Not that much difference between 19.5 and 24 volts. In the video I did before I explored several possible ways of making the heater (including nichrome) and explained why I went with the aluminum foil: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MpD2EWrJkOY.html Nichrome for example would be so concentrated of a heat source due to the lower surface area that it burns through Kapton tape quite easily...
you can salvage decent stepper motor with micro stepping support from broken or old printer. some ppl sell it online you can alsoo salvage the linear rail abd bearing
Yup I found that! I don't have access to printers that old but I ended up buying a bunch of steppers for cheap from someone who gets them from ewaste 😅 That's the one I showed at 5:53!
glass table need use heat resist silicate glass table or use 3D printed glass clamp to corner both side keep glass down but not press glass, NOT screws.
lot better use one power supply, max current need know ALL what use, then add DC-DC converter about 1-2$ pcs ewery line and adjust screw make volt 3,3 volt 5 volt or 6 volt or 10 volt or 40 volt etc, ewery line own nominal volt what need, then have only one cheap switch power supply etc, led switch power supply same what normal all printer used aluminium box.
stepper motor no matter how high volt have, i used my CNC stepper motor who has specs 5V 3A and i has run this motor many year, 40V 3A ampere have only important not burn motor. high volt can drive motor fasten speed too. and 3D printer have lot many different good controller board, esp 32 have lot in/out pins and popular today, cheap boards have. or old time style use arduino uno and cnc shield or whitout shield. and mechanic best use T8 screws. and linear rails who not bend center point. etc, MGN 12 or 15 rails. cheap about less than 10$ meter.
I've watched most of your videos re: this printer, and I'm super impressed with your woodworking/fabrication skills. I wanted to note that there's at least one instance in which not having bed insulation can be desirable, that being enclosed printers without active chamber heaters. Not insulating the bed can help the heatbed better warm the air in the chamber, leading to an 8-10°C difference in chamber temp. This can benefit layer adhesion noticeably with high temp materials. But on an open frame printer, I agree that insulation is highly recommended. Can save 10-15% electricity used.
if you dril your Holes to big, you can fill them with sawdust and glue and then drill a smaller hole. When I was in school, we also used this trick, to fix our errors when working with wood.
Regional differences, they've been increasingly hard to find for about six years, and we're outright banned in the EU in 2021. Good thing too, the paper and bamboo stick ones are a lot better at being cotton swabs anyway imo...
Çocuk harbiden yaptı vay aq iki tane mdf beş tane rulman derken oldu aygıt. Yalnız o yazıcı mekanizmaları çalışsa baya iyi olcaktı onada yapcak bişi yok
Is there a technical reason you didn't use cheap drawer Slides with ball bearings? Or did you not think of it? Also, I would have use vegetable oil and Silicone based lubricant instead, Because Vaseline is a petroleum product which can break down wax. I would have also used used super glued nuts instead of theading the wood, Would take just a few minutes to cut out a hole for the nuts to lock into with a small Chisel, If you used a Softer wood, you could press the nuts then, super glue the nut in and then flood the wood to fill the pores would be probably been a lot better. In the US where people put a lot of trash products along the street for people to pick up so everything i've mentioned could have been gotten for free.
The worst idea! 😅 3D printing is so easy, unless you do it like me! For a first printer (if it needs to be cheap) I'd say your best bet is a used and/or broken one someone is trying to get rid of on like Facebook marketplace or something. That way you just need to fix it up a little or have most of the parts for a DIY, and it'll be way better than this, haha!
7:48 general design tip to avoid scenarios like this - grind a concave 90 on both pieces and slap a polished ball bearing in between. That way you have mild steel - precision ground contact x 2 which will vastly improve wear resistance and smoothness for like a 2 cent part. Still a bit of a janky solution but I think very much in the spirit of your project!
Good idea! My idea of making a tip on the screw ride in a negative cone was inspired by the balance wheel bearing I saw in a mechanical kitchen timer I took apart as a kid. The ends of the shaft were basically a needle point suspended in a divot on the end of a brass setscrew. Unfortunately I didn't get the indentation in mine to end in a sharp enough point, so I had to round off the tip of the lead screw a bit...
As another next to free upgrade to reduce the axial backlash from the motor you could put another block of wood, with a through hole for the threaded rod, in front of the motor and then put nuts (and counter nuts) before and after the block of wood. Adjusting the nuts for a tight, but no too tight, fit on the block it would take most of the axial backlash out of the rod without adding too much friction and virtually zero load on the motor. Plastic washers or waxing the wood again could help to reduce friction, though thrust bearings (or normal ball bearing that can also take some axial load) would be the better solution. The far end of the threaded rod should not be fixed to the frame for the issues you experienced.
i built a printer almost as bad, its a corexy from years back (6?) cost me 1400$ over the years working on it. and it still performs horrible. it would be a perfect match for you and your farm.
You are one hell of an engenier, it's amazing to watch! Yes, there are more effective ways to do this. Yes, for a little more money one could buy a printer and arguably the tools needed for this project cost more. But the learning needed for this, the understanding you have on 3D printing and the craftsmanship. It's amazing.
Awesome stuff! Just as food for thought, maybe think of a system to hold the screw under tension? It could increase precision, reduce artifacts and improve longevity due to reduced wear.
