@@antoinepersonnel6509 Battery drain would be negligible at most. The current draw from using any head set would be no more than the internal speaker as the head set present a high ohm load on the amp the internal speaker is most likely a 4 or 16 ohm .5 watt jobbie.
If I remember correctly, a guy called Stacksmashing on RU-vid ported it and here is the link to that video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sNg_S9UM5ps.html
Man cool little project. I wouldn’t personally do it as it kind of defeats the point of it being a collectible modelled on the old 80s game and watches but that is why we can watch stuff like this on RU-vid and appreciate it.
It's actually so that some of the light from the screen will shine out of the Triforce on the back. It's rather dull, but when the room is dark it's easy to see the Triforce on the back lighting up.
@@Jamesjimjimmy If you short two board traces with a fallen screw or anything else that is conductive, and the battery is still plugged in, the unexpected voltages can fry the CPU, screen, capacitors, you name it. Just because a current is too small to harm you, doesn't mean it won't harm electronics that aren't specified for them.
@@xPrincess420x Not at all. You just have to be careful and get a feel for it. It's much easier than welding, which is what people sometimes confuse it with.
For soldering really tiny stuff, I find that resting my hands on the table helps a TON on getting those tiny things soldered. It really takes some working to get past the "I want to hold my hands in the air to do complicated tasks" but once you do, the table being rock steady helps a lot with fine control. You don't have to have your arms/shoulders tensed to move your fingers in tiny little increments. I wish I could find the tiny bluetooth module that would have fit absolutely PERFECTLY where that speaker went. Aarrgh, such is the trouble with modules from China. You can never find them when you need them.
A non slip surface goes a long way. Also to answer the BT module, im sure you could broker the audio signal using the ultra tiny TTGO chip (ESP32 with built in BT and WIFI). Things so tiny you could probably fit it to the left of the speaker without chewing out too much of the white frame. I may now attempt this project after the holidays....
Great job! Little tip, next time you have to solder 2 wires to the same pad, twist the wires and solder them together first, it'll make it much easier!
Elliot, when you are soldering something held in place by a pair of tweezers, if you have trouble like you did, tape the tweezers to the table with masking tape, and they'll be a lot more stable.
The next logical step would be to open up that BT transmitter and integrating it to the G&W! You get the power from the G&W battery and wire up the audio just like you did in this video. You'd only need a little opening to press the pairing button.
I think the design was intentional, in order to recreate the experience of playing an actual G&W. I own some G&W, and yeah, the sound on those is basic to non-existent, but they have a certain charm I think the design team for these modern units are aware of.
I feel like using a surface mount jack would look sleeker, and wouldn't require removing as much material. Just cut a slot in the plastic that can accommodate the jack. I'd also recommend adding a resistor (22 to about 220 ohms, adjust value to your preference) between the sleeve pin on the jack and the negative on the speaker, that way the volume is gonna be more appropriate to earphone levels. Cutting a small channel on the speaker's sticky tape for the sound to come out of the jack when nothing is connected could work too. Yeah that's what I'd change about this.
I’m gonna never do this. Lol. I just recently changed the housing on my switch and joy cons. And I’m never doing something like that again. I don’t have the patience. But I enjoy your videos. So keep doing stuff like this. 👍👍👍
@@aidancommenting I have a bit of a different philosophy, if people knew how to fix it... they'd probably be more likely to send it to repair. Trust me, I tested for caps and knew they were blown, but it was on a power supply, not risking it!
It's not so bad, with a good set of tools and patience you can accomplish anything! but I understand your frustration sometimes not everyone has that and says f&%# it! 😆
id say to just move on to Bluetooth (instead of a headphone jack) for any future G&W plans...that way, it can still keep the 'aesthetic' of the old style-- you can just turn the Bluetooth off so it will play through the onboard speaker-- but you could pair it with your wireless earbuds or desk speaker to get that 'full sound feeling'...i mean, they (finally) patched it in with the Switch, itd make sense for them to do it with whatever other Handhelds they decide to launch...
Nice! If you wanted to do this without "destroying" the case (i.e. no holes or other visible changes) you could replace the speaker with a tiny Bluetooth transmitter pcb (under 5€ from Aliexpress for example) and reed switch (10pcs for 1€) to trigger the pairing mode with a tiny magnet from outside the case :D This way you could use bt headphones or bt speaker for the sound. But you would possibly loose the internal speaker (not enough space inside for the bt board AND speaker?).
you Could do that and Keep the internal speaker but that is adding more complexity to the whole thing and aside from that even a low end tiny bt transmitter would draw 500 mA just sitting there doing nothing.
@@CotyRiddle according the specs I found on Aliexpress for the transmitter board I mentioned in the original comment the working current is 30 to 45 mA. Might be inaccurate data, but still...
That's not true, that you don't see it. There's a triforce on the back of the case that's lit up by the display, and that internal triforce shape is needed to make the light come through correctly.
Hi Elliott. Nice mod? Do you use a wire solder tip cleaner and solder tip tinning compound? If not, try them. Amazon sells them for £7 each or less, and they might make your soldering less expensive. The wire tip cleaner is a round rubber container with curly wire inside. When the soldering iron is hot, you stab it into the cleaner wire and it removes old solder and stuff that's on the tip. The soldering iron tip tinner is a round tin containing a sort of paste. You put your (clean) hot soldering iron tip into it and it coats the tip and it makes the soldering easier (fewer strands of solder being pulled away from the joint by your tip). If you got this far and don't know what I'm talking about, I'll do a quick (hopefully edit-free) video and put it on my channel for you. All the best!
Might have been easier with a smaller headphone jack. They make pcb mount 3.5mm jacks which are less than half the width of the one you used. Don't actually need a pcb with them. I just glue them in and solder wires to the terminals just as you did. They don't have the fancy screw thing, but if you drill a clean hole you don't really need it and will end up with a flush mount jack.
The real mistake is the button placement if they button were placed either in the middle of the case or reversed to the top it'd make holding it so much better.
I bought the Mario and Zelda Game & Watch merely for collecting purposes. I don’t plan on opening them, nor do I have much sentimental value toward the games on them (other than the original Mario); however, they look really nice on the shelf.
Should have been slots three or four in front of the speaker on the back case That way the sound could resonate against your hand when you were holding it and amplify it
For steady soldering inhale, hold breath, wait a sec, solder, exhale, rinse and repeat. Also brace fingers against table surface, using pinky and ring fingers spread apart and against nearest stable surface.
I'm planning on designing a slim stethoscope for the Game and Watch. You won't have to change anything on the console itself, and the connection will be tpu so it won't scratch the console either.
2:45 I noticed that the battery is a regular JoyCon battery, it hasn’t been modified in the slightest, as the sticker still says “HAC” on it, which is the model number prefix for all Nintendo Switch parts and accessories.
The impedance of (cheap) headphones are too low without a series resistor for the amp on the board. I am surprised it wasn't heavily distorting when pushing those headphones at max volume xD Add a series resistor. 330 ohms is all that is required to get it into spec(but it will still be a bit loud).
Elliot, I love these vids. Would you ever consider reworking a psp 3000 to fit into a black dmg shell? Like a bizarro game boy, bonus points if you can maintain the disk drive access functionality in the back. I know a while back you said you had creative block for new vids. I'd love to see this in a vid or a series. Anyways keep up the good work and I really enjoy the channel.
That's true, there was NO head phone on the original Game and Watch, but then again, there was no NES games on the original Game and Watch. =D Excellent mod.
Am I reading this diagram right and the sound is mono? That's fine for the NES games since the system itself was mono, but the Gameboy could output stereo sound and I'm pretty sure Link's Awakening did.
When I saw the title I thought for a moment you were going to add Link's Awakening DX to the games list or something, wasn't expecting a headphone jack.
What’s the smallest Bluetooth transmitter available? Could you wire up one in there and not have to damage the case at all? Also, that schematic was gorgeous- don’t sell yourself short!
Here I thought you found some way to emulate the Legend of Zelda Game and Watch title that for some reason they decided not to include in this collect (see also: the absence of Super Mario Bros. Game & Watch from the... Super Mario Bros. Anniversary Game & Watch).
bluetooth audio might be a tough one to fit in the shell, but I think I have one of those little adapters somewhere... I'm gonna install it into a GBC I reckon.
i would have used a surface mount headphone jack (def. smaller) , would have fit in without ruining the whole shell .. also ur solder skills man , consider getting a "third hand" (that thing that can hold the leads for ya) and a bit of clay to hold the console in place. also unplug the battery first , if you unscrew things and you just drop a screw on the board u might short something
Cool project. I actual like that Nintendo is true to the original game and watch design without a jack. If I could have my choose I would implemet the stand on the back of the device.
I was going to say the price is a bit expensive with that internal is looks inexpensive. Then... I saw effort for putting Tri-Force as details in the inside even maybe majority of consumer will not even take off the body.
I'm a noob as well but based on the schematic showed on 6:26 it seems the headphone jack Elliot used disables the speaker when plugged and bypasses when unplugged so it sound as normal
You wouldn't run into any issues selling this but technically it is illegal because you amplified it two levels above regulation, but that's just for internal headphone jacks you can buy amps of course if you're buying a proper product it will be properly labeled so you won't blow out your eardrums.
It's an homage to the Game & Watch series of LCD games Nintendo Released in the 80s, which didn't come with headphone jacks. It's not a mistake. You had to be there.
there's no data lines connected to the USB C cable, but I would have just soldered some wires to the correct pins, which in theory should work with certain usb c to 3.5mm adapters.
"Screen is beautiful" Literally tilting it to the side will show you the disgusting viewing angles. One of the many indicators it's a TN LED panel. Literally the cheapest you can get.
You can add something like 100 Ohm into the purple line but it will nearly completely kill the speaker sound, and I can't see a way around this. Also it tends to sound a bit wonky, a bit too headphone impedance curve dependent. Don't actually recommend doing it.
A volume dial is essentially a potentiometer (aka variable resistor). If I were to experiment with this, I'd used a preset potentiometer, set the menu volume to maximum and tone down the pot with a screwdriver to set the headphones to a sensible high level. From then on I'd alter the volume via the menu.
