Flanged vs. Floater 

Your wheel won't fall off with the 9" he showed either. You lose wheels with C - clip axles because the bearing is pressed into the axle tube and the c - clip is the only thing holding the axle shaft and flange in.

Yep. Pretty much exactly what grease monkey said. Dana 35 is a good example of a shitty c-clip style axle. Stay away from C-clip axles!

C.A.R. Chicago Area Racing

The little ring on the flange-side of the shaft. Notice how he slips the drive flange on from the opposite end of the axle shaft, he does this because the steel ring at the outside end of the shaft is what is retaining it. Really simple, clean, and effective.

In this day and age of incredible technology, 1500+ is where you *start* getting into high horsepower. 1000HP is old news now. Crazy.

Semi floater.

StrayaMate because it's not entertaining to the masses. They want entertainment. Look at current car shows. They're just the same repetitive shit over and over. I stopped watching powerblock TV years ago when I noticed that they basically did the same shit, over and over and over.

you see his videos, where they go when they need a race car built lol this guy is top notch to say the least isn't he. I love that he is so good he can give instructional videos and full builds. Doesn't matter when you are this good people still come to you when they need to spend $500,000 on a real pro pro-mod lol

Floater would be no different than a semi floater (standard rearend) on the street. Im building a 10.5" tire car right now with a Strange full floater, I prefer full floaters because you will never lose a wheel due to an axle failure.

Bob Faestel Don't say never. I've seen people lose wheels on full floaters. Last time was on a dragster. Not sure how it managed to take the wheel off too, but it did....and the driver watched as it rolled past him to the end of the track lol. I tried everything I could to determine what happened but even pausing and slow motion didn't help.

@@JC-11111 most times you see a floater rearend loose a wheel it is a result of the wheel studs failing and that is usuallya result of improper torquing . Anything is possible but you rarely see a hub or housing failure.

skirkland1980 exactly, except they usually have the axleshaft and hub drive flange as one piece. all the way up to class 8 trucks.

lol... alot more than that

The term for axles that aren't full floating and that aren't C-clip is "semi-floating axle", it's more commonly heard in the off-road world, I rarely hear it in the 'car' world, but it's an axle industry standard term. So the 3 typical axle types are... - C-clip: retained by C-clips inside the diff of course. - Semi-floating: a 1-piece flanged axle shafts just like C-clip axles, but are retained by a bearing retainer flange on the outside of the axle housing instead of a C-clip in the diff. Notice the bearing near the flange on the flanged axle shaft in the video, that's a press fit, and the bearing retainer sandwiches between the retainer and the axle housing end - so that bearing sees all the side-load forces(if that sounds a little scary, remember that C-clips are supporting the side loads in a C-clip axle {SHUDDER}). - And, full floating - which you're obviously pretty familiar with, the axle shaft is fully floating, meaning it doesn't support any weight, and is retained at each end. Also, if you're familiar with the conventional 9" Ford, then that's exactly what a semi-floating axle is, since they retain the axle shaft by the outside wheel bearing which is a press fit on the axle shaft. So, when someone puts 9" ends on a Ford 8.8" axle to 'C-clip eliminate it', you're turning it into a semi-floating axle by retaining the shaft at the outside end with a bearing retainer instead of the inside end with a C-clip. As far as side loads, it honestly doesn't matter, C-clips are the weakest in this regard too but it's a non-issue, they never really break from side loading. You're more likely to break a C-clip axle shaft by aggressively crossing corner rumble strips under throttle with sticky tires. Semi-floating axles are fine with side loads, one can argue that the axle shaft bearing is being loaded in a way it isn't designed for; but, again, you just don't see side load-related failures in road racing use. Full floaters are 'the best' in side load as well, since all of the side load is fully supported by the spindle, not the axle shaft.

Agreed. Full float can have a removeable drive flange or not. I'm not even sure there is an advantage to removable flange or not to be honest.

Because there isn't anything "inherently weak" about it until you have 3000+HP - semi-floating drag axles are typically much more affordable, and one like McAmis featured here is *OVERKILL* for anything that isn't a Top Sportsman car. You are gaining literally NOTHING by dropping tons of cash on a full floating axle that belongs in cars with an extra 1000+HP over what you have. You can get a Fox body Mustang into the 10s with a Brad Anderson blown hemi - but what the hell is the point of using a $50,000 blown billet big block to do what a $6000 small block can do? That ridiculous full floating axle is a BAE hemi of axles; 95% of drag racers will NEVER need either, even if we want them.