Chassis Hardware 

I absolutely love seeing someone who talks about the real details that make the difference. No one thinks about the couple thousandths here and there that add up to a half inch of slop and make that $100,000 race car or even just a basic restoration car feel like garbage. Good hardware, electrical connections, and plumbing make all the difference, but these cars wanna skimp on all three of these parts of a car.

Some of the best content on YT. Tim is such a straight shooter its refreshing.

Another subject that needs to be covered is re torquing after the first runs are laid down. Heat cycles and such. Thanks for all the effort making safer race cars.

Hit 'em in the face with a piece of tubing Lmaooooo Love it Tim!

I've been an aircraft mechanic in the airforce and built a few cars (nothing nearly as fast as tim) and there is a ton of good information in this video. The only things I would add is if you are using self locking nuts (distorted thread or nylock) they have a limited number of uses, usually 2-3 times before they lose a significant amount of locking foce and should be replaced. I would also disagree with Tim when he says to machine down hardware so as not to show too much thread. If you have only one thread showing on a nylock nut, that nut only needs to back off 2 threads before there is no more locking foce and it will fall off. Airforce technical orders require 2 threads showing outside of every nut. I will always use as much thread as practical because id rather have a loose captured bolt than a bolt with no nut at the end liable to fall out at anytime.

Another big difference in how fasteners are made is how the thread is generated. Cut threads or Rolled threads. Generic stuff may have cut threads, so when they make the thread they remove metal in the process. This is weaker because you have cut through the grain of the metal. The AN, NAS, and MS fasteners have rolled threads. The threads are generated by rolling the bolt blank between dies that have the thread form. The bolt metal is squeezed and forced into the correct shape. The result is the grain then follows the peaks and valleys of the thread. This is much stronger and much less likely to break.

I’ve been a mechanic for 45 years and I have yet to see a quality made China tool

We come around because you still talk like a person, not just a sales asshat. Refreshing as hell, even when its stuff I knew. Some kits I see cheap out with smooth inserts over the threads that fail and shimmy. Note to garage racers: If your bolt-shortening cnc is a grinder, you can't let the bolt get hot or it will lose temper; keep a water bucket handy and dunk often.Thanks for the info Tim.

Wright tools makes all their tools in Barberton Ohio. Their stuff is in the Snap On realm for quality but it is much more affordable. I like their stuff and it's easier to get than the box trucks.

Chang fung 🤣😂🤣

I was taught the faster you go the higher quality parts are required, including hardware.

I was curious on the price of those ans bolts. I assumed they would be crazy expensive. I am shocked how cheap they were. There is absolute no reason not to use them!! I work in a factory and have seen first hand how bad bolts chew up stuff. Most of that stuff runs 24/7 till it fails.

Just say NO to shyt made in "Chang Fung" LMAO. Never could understand why after spending a ton of money on high end cars like Tim produces, that some people all of a sudden get frugal with fasteners - this has serious safety implications!

So disappointed. Came here to hear Tim say "Chinese Bullshit". Good info. Very informative.

Aviation standard is 3 threads past the nut. No more, no less

Proper fastener usage is not something most racers know well unless they were military or aviation mechanics. Thanks for posting this.

You had it right the 1st time Tim throw that shit away don't even give it to somebody

Great advise. A video on when safety wire should be used might be a good subject for another vid.

I get so tickled listening to him " this NSA bolt here will have enough shoulder to go through both plates" Picks up the grade 8 bolt- "now this piece of Sh!+ here....." LOL

One correction is needed. AN bolts are equivalent to a Grade 5 at 120 kpsi, Grade 8 from the hardware store is significantly stronger at 150 kpsi. Everything else he said about fit over the threads is correct. Like he said in the video, what you have to do is buy a longer bolt to get the solid section you need then cut back the threads, but there is nothing shitty about a Grade 8 and it could save you some money.

How about "truck frame bolt" SAE grade 8.2 with matching "truck frame nut" for replacing rivets that have failed (gone loose allowing movement in crossmembers). AN is Army Navy as the air force was branched out of the Army after the standard was set.

The devil is in the details. It's this level of craftsmanship that separates the Pro's from the Billy-Bobs

I like 3 threads out the end of all bolt.

This is for fixing a plow or some sheeeet. Bro, had me laughing.

When I bought the 1996 Super Stock Championship Firebird, "Hatari" I found out the hard way that someone had used fully threaded bolts in ALL of the 4 link holes. Unreal. If you can find the 1996 Indy Super Stock Finals you'll see the car dangerously crab walking after the finish line. You can see the drivers eyes WIDE OPEN he was so scared. Every hole was CHEWED UP bad. .

Great info, but I can’t help thinking of Dana Carvey’s Church Lady while watching this …

I've been saying things like this for 40yrs, and all I got was shouted at... now I just shut up and beat the opposition fair and square. If you do like Tim says, then all the other things you do on your car / bike /boat will be impacted with an increase in quality and reliability, and things will take a substantial turn for the better.

Can you make a video just on tools you use and recommend? would like to know about some of the imported stuff you talked about. Thanks!

Awesome lecture Tim, if you have ever seen GE stainless tools you will throw away any other tools. Only problem you can only get them when you buy a GE jet engine.

9.50 mark I like my bolt sticking way out past my nuts 🤣🤭

After machining the end of the bolt to minimize exposed threads, what do you do about corrosion resistance?

Hi Tim, Thanks for spelling out a lot about some things that most of us don’t normally consider. Obviously your way is “the right way” and I appreciate the information. . Preamble: I noticed that you don’t talk about (or probably use) lock washers. Question: Is it bad form to use split lock washers or star washers? I’m not a big fan of nylock nuts, because they wear out very quickly. You need to replace them often. (I’m my opinion) As a former dealership or Journeyman Certified Repair Technician, I believe in using the right parts for the job. It is a lot more difficult to deal with that in the aftermarket or racing type of projects. I’m really glad to hear that you have the quality hardware. I always have trouble finding good hardware and hate having to wait for it to arrive. Another great video and good lesson. Thanks for the info.

Shoulder length is correctly call GRIP LENGTH. A/N, NAS and MS fastening devices are called out by DASH size (diameter) and GRIP length, (length from under head to end of threads) These bolts can be spec'ed for safety wire holes also. Correct length of fasteners SHOULD BE measured with an A/N flat washer under the bolt head. An A/N washer under the nut, and a minimum of 3 1/2 threads showing after correct tightening. NO LOCK WASHERS ARE ALLOWED! Either LOCK TYPE NUTS (NYLOC nuts or METAL DEFORMED NUTS, self locking or SAFETY WIRE!!!) Look at a AIRCRAFT SPRUCE catalog. The catalogs are free and they explain all the terminology for motorheads that can barely read.... This would cover just about everybody that races... hopefully.....probably not "those guys"....

Man you do some great videos I love how you’re always putting the USA made products first! Your customer service is excellent and you guys are always willing to help! Can you guys do a video on repairing a chassis?

What size tubing do you hit “yer guys” in the face with, and what grade is it?😁

Thanks Tim, I learn every time I watch one of your Videos. Oh and get a laugh as well.

Yup, Aerospace specs call for for 2 - 3 protruding threads. Self locking nuts have a 3 cycle limit. Never thread directly into Aluminum, use helical coil inserts and preferably the non-locking variety.

I was taught the unthreaded part of the Bolt is Called the "Shank". Great Info!! A+

This is dream for a person with OCD like myself! Awesome!!

With Snap-on make sure you aren’t using Flank Drive Plus or Flank Drive Xtra. Those are for working on your rusty tractor and will leave marks on fasteners. Stick with standard Flank Drive for wrenches and sockets.

Good information. I suggest adding information about the radius under the bolt head and the radiused ID washers that are needed. Carol Smith books are also helpful.

So.. I worked at 4 Chassis Shops over the years.. Two shops built only T/F Dragsters and Fuel Funny Cars. One was A Super Famous Super Comp Dragster Shop.. The Forth was A Very Famous Shop that built PRO STOCK and PRO MOD Cars.. Really Enjoyed this video.. I have made Many Titanium Bolts, Regular and Heavy Washers & The Nuts. All out of Titanium. Plus made Many Titanium Bungs for Wheelie Bars and Front A Arms.. I Always liked making Cool Parrts.. Worked as a Aviation Machinist in Seattle for Boeng too. Then a AVIONICS Machinist.. So that was 4 1/2 Decades of Machining... Really Love All of Tim's Videos. He is So Spot On!! >> Builds Awesome Cars Too..!!!!

If you want to step up the hardware fastening game even more, consider the use in fasteners like Hi-lok or Hi-Tigue for fastening parts that will not be taken out, meaning you wont be adjusting or removing that hardware -more or less for the life of the car- they have a significant advantage in clamping, and filling the hole to put it simply. They are an interference fit and is one of the strongest ways to fasten two separate pieces together

Awesome video, I'm about to start building another race car, will now search to see if the correct bolts are available here in OZ, must admit to using 12 point sockets, I now know better. Cheers

any bolt you get that’s military related, they are made on the next block over from me, called quality socket and screw down here in SW FL. every bolt and nut are cnc machined On a lathe out of a solid piece of whatever their tinsel strength is I never asked… that’s where i get all mine and i’ll tell ya…. it ain’t cheap and watching every nut bolt and washer be hand inspected and stamped for millimeter perfect ✌🏻

Now this is a boss I would like to work for. Someone who cares about the quality of the work and will make sure it perfect or it doesn’t fly. Just because no one sees it doesn’t mean it’s ok. At the end of the day he will know and he cares. Not a lot of companies are like this any more

Wow! You sir are very passionate about them bolts. The way you caressed that bolt at the end was uncomfortable as hell lol. Keep up the ggod work

I’ve worked on high power dirt cars, using titanium bolts milled to length and center drilled for weight savings. Some of those guys are borderline crazy about weight!

Thanks for putting out all this very valuable information Tim. Can't tell you how many times I see grade 5 hardware on cars. Most people either don't know or don't care enough to do it correctly. Nylon lock nuts are a must and the shallow ones save weight. Having a bolt stick 2 inches out of a nut drives me nuts.

I love your Diction, Never Change Few more closeups would be appreciated! Subscribed

This is a great primer on nuts and bolts for anyone working on race cars. Further information can be found in the other Carroll's (Smith, not Shelby) book Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing. His books should be on the shelf of every performance automotive worker and shop.

I've always heard great things about Mr. McAmis but never encountered him or seen anything he'd done like this before. This is pure gold, real talk, no bullshit just the facts.

So I can't use bolts that I buy by the pound, my cheep tools are going to piss me off...... next your going to tell me that there are no leprechauns 😊 Thanks for the time to put the vids out, I hope new people to the sport understand how much info you are offering.

Wal Mart has bolts too....

I like me that plow shit... I bought a Nasa 1/4x3" bolt once... best $60 bolt ever.

As a student of Carrol Smith of many years ago I appreciate your sharing of this knowledge and find your "tone" refreshing 👍

Me and my barnyard junk watching this video like 😈😈😈

Everybody chang fung tonight 🤣🤣🤣

Excellent information. There is always something more to learn and improve upon.

You should have a segment every once in awhile where you go over race cars at an event and just roast them.

A retired mechanic involved in motor racing ( circuit) also wheel alignment. Had a 10.000 hour apprentiship, every time i got involved with a new car i would insist on pulling and checking every chassis related bolt and nut . And generally replacing 90% of every bolt and nut .fortunately the front guy at my faourite bolt shop build racecars on the side, i could get any bolt that was listed as unobtainium within 7 days from anywhere in the world. My base country ? New Zealand

AN represents Army/Navy. The Army AIr Corp existed prior the the formation of the Air Force (1947) and AN bolts were used during WWII prior to the formation of the Air Force. It got the designation to standardize the hardware supplied by every supplier - they had to meet the specifications the military required so there was less problems with hardware. I hope this ends your confusion. The AIr Force requires shouldered bolts as you use them and when the nut is installed and tightened, approximately 2 threads of the bolt should be exposed. Too long adds weight, too short is not acceptable by the inspectors. Luckily, the planes are repaired and, not fabricated when deployed and the T.O.s (Technical Orders) give all the specifications of the airplane so you can find the exact bolt to be used. Split lock washers are garbage. If you ever have issues with a bolt coming loose from vibration and stress, check out the Nord-Lock style lock washers, also called Wedge Lock. They are a 2 piece washer and when the bolt assembly is torqued, it will not come loose. It can even take more torque to dismantle than the tightening force. They are reusable. Can you say tenacious?

All very good info. IF, you're a millionaire or your car owner is or you have a bottomless bucket of sponsorship money. Also, I guarantee you there is not one place within 125 miles of where I live that would have ANY of these fasteners in stock. At midnight before the next race and I need a bolt and, oh shucks, I'm all out of NAS bolts, I guess we can't race. This guy is talking to NASCAR, IMSA, INDYCAR, Formula One level car builders. Fine. The home builder, Saturday night racer, has no interest in this foul mouthed, smart ass.

first of all I'd like to say how much I learn watching your videos even though I no longer race I still enjoy learning something new all the time , but right now I do have a slight problem with this video , and it absolutely does make a lot of sense using the proper bolts in the proper applications , but what you fail to tell everyone is that it's almost impossible to purchase these particular bolts online , I am building an old-school gas with the old-style latter bars so I decided to go online and purchase some of these bolts to use the proper ones in my application , so I went online and all I could find is that you have to know part numbers for these particular bolts they do not show sizes or tell you sizes all I could find the matter who I searched they go by part numbers which makes it almost impossible to purchase any of these bolts or knots that you are talking about , but I do have a suggestion if you can find a way to make it easier for someone to purchase these bolts or to put out a chart of different sizes and with the part numbers are ? I gave the example what I'm looking for I need 4 - 4/3 inch by two 1/2 inches long in the grip would have to be about 1 5/8 , these are just four bolts that I was before and there's no way I can find them or understand how to purchase them online because everything goes by part numbers and they do not give your prices ? But I do agree with what you're saying and understand exactly what we're coming from is just for an average person such as myself I have no choice used bolts that you showed in the beginning of the that would have to be purchased from Home Depot or Ace Hardware but thank you so much for taking the time and doing these videos because like I said I no longer race because I am 68 years old but I enjoy these videos tremendously because of what I learn

Tim your completely correct. I wish all builders and even some really big named builders use junk! That shit rolls down the food chain. I’ve heard it was good enough when I bought it? So it should be good enough now. Then you look at there Set up sheets and they say the car wont repeat?? Then you look at the holes on the chassis all OB longed out and the wrong bolts on other things that shouldn’t be. Coming from the Dirt Track Racing where you make adjustments thru the night you have to have the RIGHT SHIT!!!

Tim is the best! Basically if you’re using hardware store crap “throw that shit in the trash”. Many people say this but never really explain why safety and strength are affected! The best race shop in the US. Thx

I live in Germany and own an US van converted in the US to Ambulance in the 90ies. And it is pretty much the opposite on all relevant bolts like: the 4 ton airbag rear suspension! I am not an expert by any means and always thought "are they stupid or am I? 3/4" huge bold - all threats.

😆😆😆.I have tools I lend the neighbours and I have tools for my race gear .I could not have said it better about not using cheap junk tools for anything to do with expensive race machines .

One thumbs down so far. Must be from Chang Fung.... Lol

“These are nice cars we’re building here” *looking at my ratty old Yoter* “you want some fancy pants bolts you dirty bitch?” Also does it count if I use a bandsaw to cut my hardware to size? Or do I have to buy a mill?

You have completely missed pointing out that all you talk about are bolts in a shear application. What about tension-clamping applications? For example, bolting a cylinder head the long smooth shank is of no benefit. You also don't mention that Grade 5 & Grade 8 bolts are heat treated and fairly high tensile strength. They are just fine if you use them in the correct application.

Sweet, instead of paying 10 bucks a bolt I gotta pay 50 bucks a bolt, hhh fuckin shit I've never thought of this, thanks

At seven minutes and 24 seconds of this video the nylock nut is mentioned. Think about the following. That nylock nut has a nylon component in the end of the nut and it is held in place by crimping, I said crimping a malleable steel to hold that nylon ring in. The nut is nowhere near the strength of the fastener (bolt) itself. Most likely those AN style fasteners were made to fasten aluminum possibly to steel. It is possible they were made to fasten light gauge aluminum to aluminum plate. Lots of good information here lots of bad information here. All of it looks good and will work just fine.

Absolutely terrible camera work, showing us 1/4 bolts and everything else without zooming in, like really cmon

I fix lawn equipment for a living so all I get to deal with are cheap bolts, but the worst are three sided self tappers. They use them to hold mower engines down …basically good enough to sell the equipment then it’s your problem. Can’t tell you how many engines and mower decks are tossed from being wallowed out by loose self tapping bolts

Love when he goes off about shit tools! Only buy good shit and you'll only get good results

Tim you are very smart top of the game no half assed shit death trap ship. How'd you start out show some of that go fast on poor boy shit so maybe other folks can get where you're at. Lived watching you under the blanket in the pits in the 90s working on the clutch of your car

Got me a whole hardware setup from Amazon plus a Long Duck Dong wrench set for my rice car ...see ya at the track jack!

Do you have any recommendations for choosing a rear and front differential housing for a car that I want to build to go 300mph?

Chang Fung. 20 miles Southeast of Bumfukked.

The bolt strengths he gave (AN vs NAS) is not an accurate statement. There are ranges of strengths in those series, and NAS is not necessarily stronger, although it is a more modern standard that will have higher strengths.

IF a HAMMER OR DUCT TAPE WONT FIX IT Then it must be ELECTRICAL

FUNNY THING IS WE FARMERS DONT USE THAT SHIT ON OUR 1,5 MILLION DOLLAR TRACTORS AND PLOWS AND SHIT OUR PLOWS COST MORE THEN YOUR RACE CARS !!!!!

I have been a working on machinery for 30 years your dead on it would be a privilege to work for a guy who talks straight to the point like a man hate working for someone who knows less than me

That might not be able to find any NAS bolts the fa store but I'm happy to live only 5m from a supplier

I got a really nice Snap-on adjustable wrench. Will that work?

Hey what do yall think about titanium hardware? I've been looking at some that have the holes drilled in the head for safety wire.

I remember when I got my first job as a line tech, had me a somewhat large selection of craftsman tools I bought to get started and I said that I didn’t need the high dollar snap on stuff. After a short time I began rounding off bolts trying to take crap apart. I’d go to guy next to me a barrow a snap on socket and it’d take the bolt loose, even after I rounded it off, and his tools were wore out. It really does make a difference, it’s expensive at first, but time is money.

Its all fun and games till ur tightening a bolt and Tim smacks u in the face with a 1 5/8 .065 tube

The best bolts/hardware video ive seen. Thank you vey helpful

Fascinating

very interesting,, nice stuff there,, thanks for the video/

So I guess those online lift kits that people bring to me to install on there trucks is really good for there 🚜 shit in the barn..Cool got it.

Please do a radio communication video...PLEASE

Where does a guy buy the ms, an, and nas fasteners? McMaster Carr? Or is there some better suppliers

do you cut some threads in the shoulder or just use a bolt with a longer shoulder and add washers for a better fit.

Awesome video with some great information. Im curious why you guys chose the 1/4” MS/NAS bolt for your steering linkages instead of a AN386 taper pin and AN975 taper pin washer combo? They work exceptionally well in eliminating all slop in a torque tube assembly when properly drilled and reamed, they also stay slop free longer than a conventional bolt as well in my experiences.

Next time you get stuck in the snow cause the plow had a bad bolt, you know who to blame hahaha

❤😂😂😂😂😂😂😂