Very nice couple of videos around the Flipsky ESC which I was curious about, given the price/functions combination. It can be a tempting replacement, even for e.g. Laotie Ti-30. A bit as you mentioned, only the FETs are not particularly awesome. Some time ago I did a side by side comparison of those with the datasheet of the Si-tech ones from the Laotie, and while some parameters are superior, are not overall that much better. And the original Laotie (JIPIN) controller has twice as many MOSFETs. So overheating at the higher end might not be that surprising, also not forgetting that Flipsky does FOC, which is a bit more demanding on the switching. The positive side is that it monitors the temperature, so you can avoid blowing these. One challenge people will have to consider is that this is not a drop in replacement to other controllers, so that there is a bit more effort in lights connections (especially brakes), wiring an alternative LCD, and the power switch which has to be physical without going for an expensive electronic alternative. Maybe the Flipsky firmware can evolve to accepting an input signal to put it in standby.
Hi my crazy friend!!!🙋 It's very logical to overheat... It has 3 capacitors and 6 mosfets to pass 100 ambers... when my YYK 7280 Controllers have 24 mosfets 6 capacitors for 80a max 120a... From the start i suggest to but them outside the frame (that way i have my Controllers) ... Event outside, temperature 🌡️ will rise... but they will cooling faster!! The only thing is left is time...🤔 That will working with this way without having issues.... We will see... You are the BEST my friend!!!!🥰🥰 Keep giving us food for our brains and scooters!!!👌😉
I have a couple of modified motor controllers from my "500w" hub motor conversions kits. I added 100v caps and FETs to it so that I could use the controller on a higher voltage battery. Running them full tilt on that battery they get to around 50*c and those are 12 FET controllers doing about 20A on a 76.6v LiFePo4 pack. It's understandable that a 6-FET controller like this one would have problems maintaining a low temperature.
hello, good work, I bought one and I've been working on it for a while, and finally, with the cooler modifications I made, I brought 70 80 amps at 50 amp peak and can be drawn continuously, if you want to see, I can post a picture. and 100 amps on the interface does not mean that 100 amps have passed through the motor phases. While writing 100 on the interface, I took a measurement of the phases with a fluke ammeter. It's 65 amps or something, so don't worry too much about the current in the interface. therefore, the power values you see on the interface are also wrong.
Hello, thank you for the video. 2 question: I thought the 75100 maxed out at 120A phase current? It looks like your max phase current was 200+. And have you tried any kind of active cooling?
I bet if you were to put SIL pads under the MOSFETs or thermal glue them to the aluminium bar, ensuring they don't make electrical contact, that you could manage the thermal issues a little bit better. another thing you can do if your scooter frame is full metal would be to thermal glue or add thermal pads to the controller so that it can sink heat off to the frame of the scooter. That should at least slow down the rate at which the controller heats up and get you a longer duty cycle at the insane power levels. that is, if you don't instead engineer a housing for the controller that is more capable of sinking off that excess heat generated by the MOSFETs.
I believe with better cooling the heating problem can be fixed.At least to a point that they will be more reliable to +4kw scooters. I would like to know if they can be operated like the stock ones? I want to be able to have eco/turbo,alarm and dual/single operation.
good, I made the same configuration as you did in the previous video, except that mine when it reaches 30km the engine locks up, not letting that speed pass
ive allways thought the cooling options they used for all the vesc i see from flipsky and other no name companies was way undersized ,after all my reasearch the only company i found i could rely on to give a rock solid unit was Trampa boards their high power controllers with liquid cooling look great and preform great to ,and since they are 100% genuine opensource Vesc you get latest features like vesc express with gps module blue tooth wifi,4,5gcan be used ,and their new STR-500 is hands down the best controller ever made for an ebike or ev build it can do all your lights from the controller it can even do wheelie control if you clued up enoughas it has accelarometers and multi axis gyros built in
hello , cool , thank you for video ! i own a TI3O too , but it had a delay when i hit full throttle , i'm thinking of changing the originals controllers and to put 2 x 75200 VESC in my TI30. do you think i can configure it to have the same speed and torque than original controllers to use it daily or the VESCs will overheat ? plz TI30 is a super cool escooter , love it
I see you use your phone as a display and not the bulky screen that goes with the controller. I have 2 of these controllers for my scooter and am in the learning phase, so a little confused about a few things. The screen that Flipsky sells has the throttle connection built in, what if you don't have the screen, can you still connect a type of throttle? If so, can you point me to where I can get the throttle and where do I plug it into the controller? Which cable etc. If you could do an in depth video on just the wiring of the controller and the various options that would be great. You did one on your scooter (similar to mine) but I felt you breezed through the connection of everything. At least from a noobs perspective.
I think I'm starting to understand how it all connects and will put it up here incase someone else needs help or I need corrections. On my old screen/built in throttle unit, there are two sets of cables coming out. One set must be for the throttle as it's: positive, ground and a signal wire. I'm guessing I wire that up to the ADC1 or ADC2 (other one for the brake signal?). ADC-Analogue to Digital Converter. So I connect to 5v, GND and signal. As for the screen, there is now a VESC tool app for IOS that I have paid for and downloaded on my iPhone, so I just need a Bluetooth module to connect to the controller and then I can use my phone as a display like you do in the video. I have just received the Bluetooth module and will soon try and connect to my iPhone. Also need a solid phone mount, as I can see your phone barely moves when going over rough terrain. Will need to also wire up an ON/OFF switch. What do I use to power up the headlights etc? Edit: The lights work off the main battery voltage, in my case 48v If I got anything wrong let me know!
@@PirateWasHere i noticed a small gap from their soldered wite to copper bar.. Sorry late reply. Im trying to use this on 800w g30 setup..with gaming thermal pad=) i hope it doesn't get as hot as others in endless sphere
Hi pirate, I love your videos and I own an X30 like you, you make surprising upgrades on this scooter and others. A question: what is your training or your job to carry out such transformations? Nice video and keep it up
I tried the Flipsky 75100 and i get battery undervoltage error (error code -11) when i do the motor wizard :( any idea how to fix? Battery is fully charged and it dropps from 54.6V to 40V when i do motor wizard
Hi Sir ! :) Thx for your Videos, they help me a lot... im a newb btw. ;) So i have a question, how can i find out, how much amps i can send into my motor. (8,5 inch 500W, similar to the vsett 9 650W version) i want to try the flipsky controller, but dont want to damage the motor. All the best
Hi my friend I'm seeing your videos for a very long time and I was waiting to install the 7550 flipsky controllers to any of your scooters you have , but I see in your new video you install the 75100 controllers and they look inside and outside the case very cheap construction, is there a possibility the 7550 flipsky controllers in your in your older video be better from this installing your scooter.
thats motor side amps/phase amps at lower speeds its easy to have triple the amps in the motor than in the battery because your motors are operating at, lets say, 12V at a specific rpm and 24V at double the speed of that you can actually calculate the battery current draw by motor amps x duty cycle (65% duty cycle being 0.65) 100A motor x 0.25 = 25A
@@Chrisw2226 Current going to the motor is bigger than the current going from battery and on the app you can see combined power and current from 2 controllers.
Witam Posiadam X-tron Viper bateria 45ah i silniki 4000W chciałbym wycisnąć ze sterowników bezpieczny max .Wymieniłem oryginalne sterowniki na Flipsky 75100 i testuje .Według producenta 100A jest bezpieczne ale takie na max granicy ,a jak jest w praktyce czy można ustawić np. 150A ? Ja tak zrobiłem i chwile jeździłem frajda extra tylko czy to nie jest śmierć dla sterownika po jakimś czasie ? Dajcie znać proszę jak to widzicie.
Marven you're making us look bad bro. Just type (for example) "100 km to miles" and it spits the answer back at you = 63.1371. Or just do the math in your head, to go from kph to mph multiply by 1.60934; mph to kph is *.63171
@@PirateWasHere też mam problemy z przegrzewaniem, a mam go zamontowanego chwilowo na zewnątrz i wiatr go chłodzi ale po 1 minucie jazdy 50km/h+ temperatura przekracza 60 stopni a korzystam z akumulatora 13s i na fazę mam ustawione 110A ale moc chwilowa nie przekracza 3kw (ważę 53kg więc dziwi mnie fakt że tak szybko wzrasta temperatura)
@@PirateWasHere Aby field weakning ci działało musisz mieć sterownik zaktualizowany do fw 5.3 w którym dodali ta funkcję. Chyba starsze fsesc 75100 nie są kompatybilne z tą aktualizacją oraz ona sprawiła mi trochę kłopotów więc jeśli silniki nie będą chciały ci się płynnie kręcić to będziesz musiał cofnąć aktualizację.
Tak naprawde obudowa odprowadza cieplo z malego radiatorka miedzy Mosem a obudowa. Ale jak by dac bezposrednio radiatorek na mosy to mozna bylo by bardziej pocisnac ;)
There is already a new revision of this controller that has a different casing. Not sure if it'll fix the issue but I've got one on order and will test it once I receive it.
@@4nlimited3dition_4n3d You know its actually funny. The day after I said all was well with it it just blew up. Looks like I jinxed myself on that one.
@@phylaxxx Oh, less nice lol. Yours was the flatter type I guess? I saw a video by de-bodgery about the internal construction issues of the box type and it was pretty bad. So I'd guess other flipsky stuff to be similar quality.
Why can the stock controller handle the heat and 75100 that can handle twice the amperage get so hot? Also is the motors using all that more amperage or will it get burned? Will the 75100 controller damage the battery as it can pull way more Amps compared to stock controller? I want to do the mode as you can get a much more features but I'm getting confused.
Overheating is absolutely your fault! Neglected any basic engineering understanding. I pull 20kW on my controller and i cant heat it up more than 5deg over ambient
@@Drcfan well , as U saw I just installed stock controller ( also I added thermal pad between frame and controller ). In this video you can see how stock controller will work, without any extra mod. If I would like to add copper radiators , water cooling , or even change mosftes then this video would have different content and title.
