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This may be an odd question but, what size would sewing tread be. I tie some bigger bass jigs I can get where I live. I do use Vevues and Uni tread I have to get most everything else of line. Great video thank you.
It depends on the type of sewing thread that you get. It would work well for bass bugs, or any other fliea where you aren't as concerned about thread build up. In my experience sewing thread would be closer to a 140 or 210 denier. Or more accurately between a 6/0 or thicker. I hope this makes sense and helps
Very good video but wish you had shown the Bobbin marking as well. Ordered UTC 70 hoping to get flat thread but it acted like a Uni, certainly not flat. It looks like 2 treads woven together, which come apart at times. Very annoying. The Bobbin says UTC 70. Maybe there are different UTC brands and manufacturers ?
Not sure about your method for measuring the differences. I am sure that from what I could see however, is that the ‘whip finish’ you used did not create a whip finish knot. This is especially true of the knot that finished the Uni 6/0 thread. You can see how the thread does not get buried under itself but instead lays on top of the wraps.
So I understand using floss types but I don't understand the use of all these hundreds of different colors of threads when the material is gonna cover it anyway?? . I personally just use some Walmart brand. Wicked thin, clear and extremely strong! It's a nylon thread. I use it for all the tying. I like tying tube flies, so the material used just about always covers the thread anyway. Any advise?
Different colours of thread for the millions of patterns, styles and variations all have their place. It might be for getting the desired depth and/or uniformity of colour in combination with the materials used, it might be for tradition, it might even be to catch the attention of fellow fishermen instead of the actual fish. But when the fish are biting, dont even think about it because they will literally bite a piece of an old nasty sock tied to a hook with a piece of thread from the ass-end of a funky pair of third day of the campingtrip boxershorts lol :P
UTC breaks so easy, it’s the least strongest of them all, if you even bump the hook point it’s snapping, and it slides around the most, you can not let any slack in it. If you are looking for a cheap thread to buy with lots of colors this is for you
Random question. When I am using utc it starts out flat but after several turns it doesn’t lay flat any more unlike the video. Am I missing something in regards to technique of holding bobbin or something? Thx
For right handed fly-tiers the thread will cord up and so you need to spin counter clockwise occasionally. Left handed folks (like Charlie Craven of Charlie’s Flybox) do not have this issue. Once you know to look for it, very easy to prevent though.
The Uni 8/0 will not build up as much bulk as the Veevus 8/0, I find the Veevus to be quite abit thicker, but its also much stronger and is supereasy to split and spin. The Utc threads I simply cannot use at all unless I've been off work for atleast a week, had a pedicure and gone through a liter of hand lotion.....it frays and then breaks so easy its not even funny. But its a beautiful thread to tie with when your fingers are pristine and your skin is nice and supple.
Lol try veevus in 10/0 stronger then UTC 8 or 6/0. Veevus is by far the strongest thread on the market. You can spin hair or tie jigs without having to use a 140 size.
For accureate representaion was each thread wrapped same number of turns? Also, it doesn't look like each thread used the same distance of hook shank in which to build thread wraps! Counting thread balls from left to right, thread #4 is the narrowest, and would be much less bulbus if using same distance of hook shank as all others. None are restricted to the same shank length.
This video is not at all useful. It needs to discuss the difference between bonded thread (Uni) and threat that has multiple strands but is not bonded, and in what direction the unbonded thread is twisted and how it can be flattened by spinning your bobbin. Also waxed vs. unwaxed, and different threat materials (silk, nylon, GSP, kevlar, etc.). Nothing here about the breaking strength of the various types of threads or how they will cause wear on your bobbins and why you need bobbins with a ceramic tube if you're tying with specific types of thread. Watch this without knowing anything about tying thread and you might think you know something. But you don't. Actually, anything you think you've learned is counterproductive.
