Folding Knife Lubricants: Modern Technology vs. Old School 

Rob! Your videos are a huge asset to increasing my knife knowledge. I've been into knives for years but only as of late have I really taken the plunge. Thank you, sir, for sharing the things you know for us just beginning their more serious knife journeys. God bless, sir!

You really saved me on this brother. Many thanks. As it turns out, Hoppe's actually makes a "Precision Lubricator" with a need applicator that works great. You're my go to source for knife info from now on.

As I said before, I always learn from you, Rob. Thanks!

As a result of This great Video post, I have ordered some Hoppe's Number 9. I like tried and true and it speaks for itself by going the distance. Thank You.

Hey Rob!! I also tried the Tuff Glide and found it actually made my knives kinda sticky. I have since used Ballistol.....works great!!

I use olive oil so I don't get cancer when I use my knife to cut food.

I use my 40 year old bottle of Webley gun oil which I have used on the blades and mechanisms of my (now sold) bayonet collection. It works well on my SAKs and other folding knives and you have just confirmed that there's no need to change it. Thanks for that. Many years ago I was fortunate to be invited into the armoury workshop in Dover Castle, UK. The armourer told me that to preserve the many original suits of armour (I think you spell it "armor" in the US) he periodically degreased the armour, cleaned out any rusty pits with a brass wire brush, applied white talcum powder all over to fill the pitted areas (aesthetically more pleasing) and then applied a coat of vaseline (petroleum jelly). It was messy but worked. I guess it would also work on old rusty knives as well as 400 year old armour. You'd have to keep them in a display cabinet to prevent dust accumulation though.

just ordered my diawa ! thanx for the info and please keep it going !

Great video, Rob. I was also very disappointed by the Tuf Glide. I switched to Benchmade Blue Lube and it was like all of my knives were brand new! Every knife of mine (except for those stinking Emersons) are extremely smooth with Blue Lube. I'm going to have to pick up some Finish Line Grease now too.

I've used Hoppe's 9 for cleaning my firearms for years. Love the smell!

Wow! Sebenza should hire you to show them what to do!

5 minute video that is 20 minutes long

Great video! It's known as Tuf-Glue on the forums! Tuf-Glide is no lubricant. It's a glorified silicone-based 'anti-corrosive' bonding agent. If you get any on your pivot it will be ruined, the action will be 'glued', and any phosphorous washers you have will be permanently warped. No amount of cleaning will ever get it out of your pivot or restore your moving parts. Despite its labeling it was never designed as a lube. Also, to save you further grief, it will destroy and blade finishes you may have so limit its use to satin(not black) blades as an anti-rust product. Knife pivot areas need "real" oil. Hoppes is a good choice.

Thanks for posting this vid. I just got the Brous Blades Silent Soldier Flipper and ran into the same rough gritty sound after like two days of constant flipping. Sounded almost like a couple of the balls in the berings had flat spots or something!!! Was looking on here to decide what to use to get this beast all smoothed out like my PM2 or my ZT 0561. Im super happy to hear i wasnt the only one who noticed this in a Brous and that there is a definite proven fix for the issue! I will be getting some of that Diawa Reel Oil as well as some 10wt Nano-Lube to give each a try. Thanks again. Keep the good stuff coming.

Great video Rob I've used Hoppe’s #9 in my knives for years without any problems.

I've had no luck with TufGlide either, Rob. I bought a mid-sized bottle of the stuff after reading lots of recommendations for it. I've applied it to several knives, let it dry overnight (as many suggest), but have found the pivots to be slow and gummy the next day. The only blade it seemed to work in was a black-coated Griptilian. I think TG is perhaps really a protectant (see TufCloth) and not-so-much a lubricant. I use FP10, a gun-oil probably similar to Hoppe"s, in very small amounts. I bought a couple pen-style applicators on Amazon and try to put about a half-drop per side on my pivots. FP10 is very light and does not seem to attract too much crud if used sparingly. After application and several opening-closings I wipe up around the tang/handle area with a q-tip to take away any slight excess that leaks out. If I use my knife for food, I don't cut anywhere near the handle or pivot anyway. My bottle of TufGlide and the TufCloth just sit there unused now.

Fantastic video. So glad I got around to watching it. Ya know, I've always been leary of dry lubricants. That Daiwa reel oil makes all the sense in the world. Which leads me to this> Quantum fishing reels are crazy smooth. They are the ONLY reel company that manufactures THEIR OWN bearings. THAT is saying something. They have a lube I've never tried. They make it themselves as well. It's called "Quantum HOT SAUCE". Every level wind Quantum fishing reel I own is smoother than all my other brands, and they STILL HAVE the original factory applied "HOT SAUCE" in them! And I've used my reels hard. I haven't bought or tried any of the product itself, but thought I'd run it up the flag pole to let everyone know my great experiences with their reels & factory applied/made lube. I "think" it's synthetic. NEVER use Ballistol on pocket knives with brass liners. I made that mistake with, thankfully, only 12 of my high end traditional folders. The brass started corroding within a couple weeks! On NEW GEC & Queen knives! Thankfully, I was able to polish & save the brass. Ballistol REMOVES BRASS DEPOSITS FROM GUN PARTS......which means it EATS BRASS. Good for guns......bad for brass lined pocket knives. If anyone has tried the HOT SAUCE lube, I'd love to hear your results. Thanks.

I just got a Benchmade North Fork and gave her a little Hoppe's #9! Glad to see you use it too. I figured if it's good enough for my Winchester model 70 is good enough for my knife.

This makes me feel alot better, I too have been using Hoppes gun oil in my knives. That Diawa oil looks pretty sweet, especially with that applicator!

Just had to chime in... Been a lurker on your channel for a while, and this video is a great example as to why. For lubricant, I've only ever used either firearms or automotive oil, depending on what was handy. My current concoction is Mobile1 10W-40 motorcycle oil cut by about 1/5 with Marvel Mystery Oil to help it flow a bit better. Thusfar, it has worked flawlessly. Simple doesn't mean bad.

You are so right about Tuf-Glide; the stuff ruins the action on knives with bearing pivots and creates scratching sound once it has dried. It also falls short as a lube for washer based pivots. The stuff sucks and smells horrible too.

I'm 56 I grew up using Hoppe's on my guns and knives. It has and will continue serving me well.

Break Free CLP is awesome, the only lube I use. Cleans, Lubricates and Protects metals, leaves a molecular bond which resists oxidation (rust). Great for guns also, used on my Uzi and it even prevents fingerprints. Also, LaBelle Teflon Powder which is completely dry, clean, white one micron particles. Put on a key, it will take a completely bound up door lock and make it totally smooth.

To be fair, how much had you used and carried the PM2 for that year? Is that under normal EDC use that would collect lint and dirt and grime?

I absolutely agree with you. The dry film type lubricants don't do very will in any application in my experience. I guess a case could be made that they don't attract lint and dirt, but if they don't lubricate very well in the first place what's the point. Ceramic bearings are somewhat noisy by nature and oil will quiet them but also slow them down somewhat as explained by Boca bearings. A fishing reel ceramic bearing manufacturer.

left handed people are the best ! love the left handed large 21 !

I use Castrol bearing grease. It's thick so it doesn't run out of the pivot area and it gives a butter smooth action.

I honestly think that when it comes to relatively light applications for lubricants that are neither extreme pressure nor high temperature but like a knife pivot, it comes down to the viscosity of the lubricant. The thickness of the lube will dictate just how easily something moves. Of course much depends on how smooth the bushing/bearing is but assuming its smooth, the lighter oil will have the lightest action. Under lots of pressure, I would bet the PTFE grease would prove to be the best.

I just bought a benchmade rift from Cutlery Shoppe with black and orange G10 scales and the coated blade (awesome knife). I applied Tuf-Glide to the pivot and it immediately killed the action on the knife, so badly that I thought the blade was rubbing on the liners. Instead of investigating further by taking the knife apart I just applied BM Blue Lube (food safe) right over top of the Tuf-Glide and immediately the smooth action was restored to the knife. Tuf-Glide is garbage.

Interesting video. Like you it seems, most of my life I used only two things concerning lubrication and corrosion prevention. 3-in-one and WD-40. These are what Dad had and I continued using them. When I got into knives the higher performance lubricants started popping up on forums and web sites. So I have tried some. First of all and my strongest opinion is that Tuf-Glide is about as poor a lubricant you can buy that can call itself a lubricant. OTOH, it seems to be one of the best corrosion protection products available. I have gotten into the habit of using Tuf-Glide (and tuf-cloth) for corrosion protection only. I will apply it to the pivot of a folder and let it dry. After that I'll use something else for lubrication and smoothness. I also have used Quick Release and like it much more than Tuf-Glide. Ballistol I like a lot but haven't been using it that long. But of all the different lubes I've found most seem work just fine for folding knives and only Tuf-Glide works sub-par. But there is one lubricant that is head and shoulders ABOVE the others when it comes to lubrication performance. It is Nano-Oil. This stuff is absolutely amazing. Like all the others (except Tuf-Glide lol) it works just fine on folding knives. And other hand tools for that matter. Where Nano-oil shines in my experience is when other oils just don't seen to get the knife working as well as it should. I've had pivots that always had a tiny bit of blade play unless you tightened the pivot screw enough that the pivot became tighter than I want. Nano-Oil works better than the others when additional pressure is required between metal parts. If you are interested go to nano-oil.com and read about it. Another thing about this product is it comes in different viscosities. It comes in 5, 10 and 85 weight. You can also mix them to create your own thickness if you want. I like a mixture of equal amounts of 10w and 85w. It get into the pivot but doesn't run as much. Actually, the 85w works good also. But I want it a little thinner for faster spreading around. The 5w is phenominal for getting into the rust on rusted bolts and allowing you to break them free almost immediately. This would depend on the bolt/nut condition and how long they have been rusted etc. But I've had MUCH better results with 5w Nano-oil than anything else I've used. It is more expensive so I still use other products as long as they work really well. But for thos stubbort pivots I use Nano-oil and it has fixed every pivot situation I've come across. Anyway, I enjoyed your video. Especially how the tried and trusted stuff isn't junk just because there are "new and improved" products available. I also suggest trying some Nano-Oil. Take care, Jack

Currently using RotellaT6 5W40 synthetic in my knife/gun oil bottle because I have a couple gallons of it out in the garage. 15¢/oz. : )

Hoppe's No. 9 also makes a solvent that excels in removing city slicks.

Thank you for the helpful video. I have a new Ontario Rat 1 with a very stiff liner lock which can often make it difficult to close knife. Is there sometjhing I can do about that ? Thanks

Just switched over to daiwa reel oil and definitely has a smoother feel than the sentry solution I used. Even after cleaning my knives and using sentry solution, my knives just felt gritty. Thanks for the tips. Saving up for a Sebenza 21 currently. I'll definitely add the floro. grease when I do get the sebenza.

hi' i have been using the HOPPE'S #9 and BEACWOOD CASEY'S STEATH on both my guns and knifes for as long as i can remember !i'm from the old time school,both these oils seem to work for me,sometimes i'll add a little STP oil treatment this stuff stays on for months and makes things vary slippery and works grate for me,thanks.

I just started using that fluorinated grease, but used plain old Ballistol for a long time

Funny you should ask... I almost plucked the 940 out of the safe instead of the Para 2. It's also riding on Hoppe's #9, and it's as free and smooth as my P2. I only picked the Spydie because it has gone longer since its last service. But to answer your question, I think tightly toleranced washer pivots do just fine with any good quality oil. The key is to not over-oil and wipe away any excess when you service your knives, so as to keep dust attraction to a minimum.

Rob, really enjoy your vids, highly informative, and very educational. I am using a fairly new product for lubing, Royal Purple has an aerosol gun lube that goes on wet and then evaporates to leave behind their patented Synerlec molecular lubricant. I just used it on my EDC knives. Just like on my guns, the action was immediately improved. Peace and faith , and keep them coming.

Thanks for the data point. Glad I dont need to run out and get Tuff Stuff and can keep using my Hoppe's.

Thanks for the kind words, and for the information, Greyman. Keep me posted on how the Royal Purple works. God bless, my friend!

Nice job ! I have quickly become a big fan of your videos. What is the word on Ballistol ?

Don't feel bad, I've been using the same bottle of Break Free CLP for everything, for the past 20 years! I even bought a new bottle for when I run out, in another 10 years :)

thanks helped alot, just got a para 2 and was trying to figure out how you get such a nice clean opening and closing

I normally use mineral oil or an extremely light oil of some kind (cue sewing machine oil). If I have phosphor bronze washers I usually burnish the surface so it's extremely smooth before I put the knife back together.

Bought me a Spyderco Tenacious yesterday and bought some 9 today.. thanks

Here it is 2022. After all these years I thought I'd better see if I should use something different them Hoppes. Thanks for the video. 9 years later. Lol

Thanks for all your help, brother! After all my guilt about living in the dark ages, apparently when it all comes down to it... There's nothing new under the sun :)

I've always used Hoppes on my knives, based on my belief if it's good enough for my weapons, oil in my it's good enough for my knives. I add a drop or two of 3 in 1 penetrating oil. And, I use that same type of applicator, as the Tuf Glide bottle. Thanks for a great and informative video.

plz help the other day I bought a kershaw cryo (sorry if I spelled that wrong) and when I try to close it, it is smooth until it gets about half way closed and then it reaches a really hard spot at first I thought it was because it had a spring to help flip the blade up but I noticed how ur flippers didn't have the same problem is something wrong or is it just the knife

I've been using Hoppe's #9 on my guns and knives for years... Never any issues. My guns are Revolvers and Semi-autos and have never used anything else. Think I'll stick to Hoppe's... Thanks for the video.

I haven't tried any of the fluoro grease in a bearing pivot, so thanks for your data point on the 0777. I think assembly lube and fluoro grease are very close in viscosity.

I keep trying new lubricants and always end up returning to my bottle of food grade mineral oil that was in my grandmother's house before I learned to sharpen, and will likely last until I have grandchildren. But when I was doing trail work and had to be away from it, lemme tell you, chainsaw bar oil frees up a knife something fierce.

I've always Militec-1 Lube & Oil. But, I'm willing to try something new. Great video! Peace, Stiletto :)

Personally, I use Rem Oil. It's thin, light weight and seems to work very well on washers and bearings alike. Never had an issue of gumming up either.

Thanks for this. I've never been a fan of tuff glide either.

I don't suppose you have any experience with nano oil from StClaire do you? I just got some and it really seems to work well. That being said I'm fairly new to the scene so I can't say I have a whole hell of a lot of experience with other oils to compare it with. Wondering if you had any thoughts/input. Thanks

Tuff glide did the same thing to my knives... I started using hoppes and it's great

for hoppe's would you go with regular or synthetic?

Thank you for saving me money on Tuf Glide, I will just borrow my fathers Hoppe Oil :)

Dry lube is better if done right, I found that tuf-glide is bs entirely. I've used graphite and moly, and other dry lubes with great success depending on the knife. Research the materials though, sometimes graphite can make certain steels break down. I also have teflon dry lube, and fluroinated teflon grease like you have here. And of coures my 3-in-1. The dry lubes I use work best and last longest but it's not a must do, it just keeps your stuff clean longer is all. Especially if your diving in and out of water and mud.

I use rotor oil. It's usually used to oil the valves on clarinets, trombones, etc.

What ended up happening with the motor oil experiment, out of curiosity?

I also use Abu Garcia reel oil and my guess is the Daiwa reel oil is similar. What makes the difference is having a nice applicator bottle like that Daiwa oil has. Once you have the applicator just refill it with cheap 3-IN-ONE oil which is perfect light machine oil for lubing any folding knife mechanism.

I would guess you're right, David. It seems to be a light but fairly viscous oil. I know it works well for fishing reels with ball bearings, so the application in knives with bearing pivots is a natural.

I've used good old 3-in-1 Oil for 30 yrs, as did my father, as did my grandfather...knives always worked fine and non of us died...even if we used it to slice an apple.

what do u think about graphite for knives?

Hoppes #9 solvent & Mobil 1 works fantastic. It's the only thing I use on my firearms and the Mobil 1 works great on knives.

What do you suggest to use on slipjoints?

just my 2 cents worth on the topic. I live in Calgary which is an oil town. I ran into a VP of a small oil company which specialize in high end lubricants and additives and picked up a few pointers. If you want the most pure highest quality oil there is which is the best for lubricating you only need go to the drug store and buy some Mineral Oil, it is so pure you can drink it. Comes in a light weight and a somewhat heavier weight the light weight is fine for knives and such. If you want to protect a tool steel from rust and also to lubricate then I have found that spindle oils like 3 - in - 0ne Oil or Singer Sewing Machine Oil are excellent as both contain a rust inhibitor. To the best of my knowledge I have not found a gun oil which contains any rust inhibitors. I have some pocket knives in D2 steel, never ever have I had an issue with rust as I keep a very thin layer of 3 - in - 0ne Oil on them all the time. I only takes a very little oil to protect them from rust. I also use this on my wood working chisels as well not sure what exact type of steel they are but they are a tool steel also.

Sounds good, is there a place that I can get an applicator like the Tuff Glide uses or the Diawa ?

Great topic, like you I was hiding in the closet on this topic. I have used Rem oil & Hoppes no. 9 for the longest time & tried many other new (to me) lubricants per my youtube friends recommendation. Been using Froglube for the most part lately.Still use the "old school" stuff at the cleaning table : )

Had to grab my Shirogorov 95T and fondle it while I watched this video.

what happens if I put oil on top of oil like putting hopps on top of my we40 silicone?

can oil be used on any type of pivot washers? does anyone use plastic washers that would be damaged in petroleum oil?

What do you think is the best lubricant for the Benchmade 940?

I suppose I do need to try that frog stuff :). Can't wait to hear how that Airstream did!

I enjoyed that. Thumbs up for not hopping on hype or following a fad. Keep us posted on how the 5W50 works. You might be on to something.

3 in one oil works great i use it to lubricate everything i used it on a 4 wheeler's chain and worked and used it on my knife

I will see you when all us Southpaws take over Earth! : )

hahaha, i've been using a bottle of Hoppe's 9 that has been around since the 80s.My favorite is to take a tiny dab of nitecores flashlight grease, and mix it with some hoppe's oil, it creates a long lasting slick action. But for a quick fix I just pop hoppe's in. I always wondered how my old Kwik Sharp honing oil would work in a pivot hmm.... This sounds really gross, but my father is diabetic, he let me use one of his syringes to apply my Hoppe's oil to my bearings, and wow it works great.

found the same with frog lube. while it may be OK on the exterior finish of a firearm, I dislike it on the internals. it goes rancid/gummy and performs nowhere NEAR as well as the Hoppes #9 I've been using for years. Great video. a real eye opener.

I'm sure they're pretty close in formulation. I think any light, clean oil will work well, as long as you don't leave it sit for 20 years unused and unattended. With any kind of regular maintenance, you should be fine. That's kind of the point of the video, I think. Knife guys tend to get fixated on small things that don't matter that much, and fall victim to "snake oil," pun intended :)

I use the same oil. Funny I came across this video. I just got done with my Benchmade bugout using gun oil.

I don't even use any of those lubricants. I use Trinity "Royal Oil" for R/C bearings, lol. Works like a charm ;)

Have to say, I've used 3 in one for years and never had a complaint. Think I might try the Daiwa now, though.

Great advice, much appreciated!

I like the Daiwa oil. 7 bucks for the needle pen thing, it's an amazing deal.

I bought the Finish Line brand (of the same grease as the CRK branded product I think) mainly because of its syringe applicator. It seems to work great.

Love me some Rem Oil for folding knives. But ironically I won't let it near my firearms.

thanks ill pick some up next weekend

I like knives to. I see comments from people about saving them money and the like. But that knife third from the left (A Brous Blade or knife) is $349.00. That's crazy unless you are showing it off which is crazy. The handle is average and for $350.00 to not use as a chef knife and to just flick open and walk around with, well then you are are wealthy man. As a side note I bet most of the people who have similar knives are the same people who complain they don't have Healthcare. Well, God Bless. James.

Glad you liked it (Daiwa) brother! :) I am really fond of it (especially price considered). And as I told you I've switched back to Daiwa from the Finish Line on my Hinderers (they just seem to like it better, though, like you, I've left the fluoro in the Sebbie). Hopefully the Daiwa works for you long term. If not, Hoppe's it is! :) HA! Enjoyed the sign off. :) But gotta be honest... I missed "The Word is sharp". :) God bless my friend!

Bronze bushings or Phosphor Bronze Bushings aka Bronze Oillight Bushings are intended to use an Oil lubricant as well as Ball Bearings would seem to be to be counter intuitive to dry out bearings/ bushings intended to be oiled, Phosphor Bronze Bushings have an Oil embedded in them, hence drying them out well seems a bit ridiculous. However I am kinda interested in the reel oil and whether it is synthetic or not and how it would work as it is still an Oil. do not remember what exact oil i use but it is for firearms, think it remm oil "time to clean the firearms" tnx nice job

I know this is an old post, but I'll comment anyway. I've found Finish Line Wet (fully synthetic bike chain lubricant) to be excellent. Not sure about the toxicity levels or its migratory qualities, but it 'appears' to remain where its put (at the pivot) and provides blade dropping smoothness.

I still have my 2nd bottle of hoppes oil...I bought my 1st one 30yrs ago(gun care only)I've been using Rem oil for my knifes and It's worked very well for me. Remember kids......a little dab will do ya NOT the whole damn thing.

Actually, someone commented on how good a rust preventative Tuf-Glide is. Maybe I'll use it on my old restored Woodings-Verona hatchet to keep it protected and help it to slip effortlessly through split wood :)

Used to use the tip my edc to spin off hot oil filters and that thing was as smooth as glass. But yes I norm use gun oil on my knives.

I always use nano oil for bearings and fluoro grease for PB washers.

Ok, cool. I wasn't doing it wrong. Not had much luck with Tuf Glide. It just doesn't work as well as Hoppes in my experience. Gonna try the Daiwa and the Quantum Hot Sauce that Howabouthetruth mentioned. The Hot Sauce is available on Amazon in both grease and oil form..

Those knifes look like they lost all their blade retention lol