TheApostleP Knives 101 Vol. 1: Basic Tools and Maintenance 

Good to see the bushcraft & sodbuster out there! I was hoping to get a sneak peak & am looking forward to the review. Great series, even though it was 20 minutes : )

I used to buy all the cutting & hand tools for a machine shop & I only bought Wiha Torx (& Torx Plus) bits & drivers. No other brand came close for fit & durability for use on indexable carbide inserts in cutting tools. Most carbide manufacturers include flag-style Torx wrenches with the cutting tool bodies & most were Wiha brand.

Thank you Rob for the awesome video. Always top notch content. God bless you for the time you put into this channel and the work you put out.

Rob, I also find it handy to have a magnifying glass on my work bench. Helps in seeing small areas of the edge that may have damage.

I bet this series will be a big hit. Great info.

hi,i been using the HOPPE"S #9 and WWD-40 for most of my life,just because i can't find anything that works better!love and follow you all the time,this is some good maintenance tip for all,thanks,god bless and take care.

Great info Rob. Keep this series going! Well done as always.

I have enjoyed your videos. I'm a novice sharpener, so all your instruction is great. And you are so right, the Word is sharp!

Great video Rob, and very relevant! I have been hoping you would do a series like this for awhile - Good going Scott on prodding TheApostleP into action! :)

Great info... really looking forward to the rest of the series. :) Looks like it's about time to place an order for more Daiwa (I'm starting to run low too!) :)

I use Tuf Glide on my Winchester Model 94 32 W.S where rust formed after hunting season. After it dried, I used a little bit of rem oil on it and it worked great for the next season with no rust after a long day of rain. As for knives, I used it on my Manix 2 XL after polishing the bushings on it and it worked fine. Then again I used it on my friend's Gerber Bear Grylls Paracord Knife and the action was so stiff it didn't close. :)

Loving the education Rob! Thanks much for tackling my questions. *Haha no worries brother on the length (20 min), I was just giving you some sub feedback on my personal prefs. I'll watch no matter what length :-) Yes is my vote on seeing a show and tell of the Spyderco sharpening system and strap use. I will be reviewing part one and I'm greatly looking forward to part two. I am grateful for your time in educating me. I've made investments in fine quality knives and now getting the finest education on caring for them. Gods blessings to you Rob.

Great Channel. I've learned so much from you =) Aquired the Spyderco Paramilitary 2 and a Benchmade Griptillian for my wife.

Great vid AP!

I haven’t tried it yet, but I would say CLP is a good option for knives. For anyone unfamiliar; CLP stands for Clean, Lubricate, Protect. I’m not sure who originally made it but lots of people make CLP now. It’s meant for guns usually but often times with guns it doesn’t do all 3 things as well as products designed to do just 1 thing but it’s a good all around gun oil. I would imagine it’s not bad for knives with plain old bronze washers.

Thanks for this video! Have a great Sunday!

Maybe someone will read this nowadays. Daiwa reel oil is a fantastic pivot oil as he says but if you want the smoothest most fluid feeling knife actions quantum hotsauce oil for bearing and hotsauce grease for bushings. When someone opens and closes any of my knives (talking about other knife people) they are like how do you get them that fluid feeling? And it's as simple as hotsauce. It's truly amazing stuff.

Excellent video, and a series sounds great. For blade steel protection that's food safe, don't forget good 'ole mineral oil ( the laxative kind they sell at any drugstore ), it works great & is DIRT CHEAP. However, I don't think I would rely on it for long term storage, but for those who play with their knives often, thumbs up. Using an old credit / library card wrapped in a cloth or paper towel is my absolute favorite method for cleaning/treating the inside of the blade wells & liners. Man, that card will get into the tightest corners with ease, and the flat surface doesn't miss any spots on the liners. WARNING: If anybody uses gun cleaner on a knife with brass liners, ya better flush or wipe the liners immediately after with some kind of oil to break down the gun cleaner residue. Gun cleaners EAT BRASS. ( says so right on the can, read the fine print ) I made that mistake, but good thing I caught it in time. My brass liners on 12 knives started turning green & black within days. I was able to save them with brass cleaner. ( SO glad I only cleaned 12 of my knives with it.)

Thanks for these videos, I sharpened a 10 and 3/4 inch (blade length) Filipino Bolo earlier tonight that was handed to me in ummm lets just say rough condition. As I understand it was bought for 5 bucks US on a street corner in Manilla and it looked to me to be hand made, maybe out of a file or a lawnmower blade or something like that. But man it really took a sharp, shiny edge pretty decent carbon Steel of unknown origin as I said. 17 degree primary with a 25 degree micro. I chose 25 because it's my buddy's bushcraft knife. I wanted him to have a really durable edge. Still on the Lansky, haven't ponied up for the EPA yet. For how few knives I sharpen I don't know if I can really justify it right now even though I have hands on experience to it's superiority. It's a little tougher to dial in the angle on a Lansky but it can be done with patience. We also re-enacted a certain scene in Crocodile Dundee..... I flicked open my pocket knife and said gimme your wallet, I got a knife and he draws this monster and says that's not a Knoife THIS is a Knoife! You know... Just for kicks. Got a Combat veteran to do tomorrow... From your good friends at Buck.

Realizing that this is quite an older video, where can a guy purchase the two stropping compounds that you use? I just bought a Bark River Bravo knife and have not had to maintain a convex edge, so all of your videos are very much appreciated my friend!

Rob, I have an old Smith's ceramic rod set, not sure what the degree set is. I can't get the blades as sharp as you do, but a generally useable sharpness. I also have a old Lansky's set up. Should I use honing oil with the Lansky set up? Will it improve my blade sharpness?

Great info Rob! Have you ever heard of or tried Slick Honey? It's a special purpose light grease that had a very low breakaway friction, it's used in various slides and I think it might be great for knife picots for that. Another cheap and interesting might be Ed's Red, a home made ATF-based gun lube that had a very loyal following. There's a couple of recipes going around, one with added lanolin for preserving. By the sound of the ingredients that might be very good as well, but I don't have the resources to systematically test these..

Thank you ApostleP. Subscribed.

Just so you know this is STILL helping some of us out here :D

I love that sod buster!

I know this video is old, but can you please tell me what strop and compound you use or recommend?

what do do you think about HDCi formula it is manufactured by Aegis solutions? and it is food safe.

apostle what cleaners and lubricants would you recommend for guns?

Hey Rob, I have always had a problem with Striders and lubrication. I have tried every lube there is trying to make them smoother, Daiwa, Tuf Glide, and many others. I'm thinking they just don't lend themselves well to lubrication...I'm guessing do to the free spinning pivot they have? Or is it something else?

Greetings brother, great video! Have been hoping that you would share this type of knowledge with us. You mention in your video that the Spyderco Sharpmaker is not designed to re-profile knife edges. I must disagree with you on this point - I would say that this is not its primary function, but you most certainly can use it to accomplish this, as long as you have LOTS of patience :) I recently purchased a Cold Steel Recon 1 with the typical asymmetric/uneven Cold Steel grind, and successfully reprofiled and straightened the edge using my sharpmaker and the diamond rods. It took about 4 hours of steady work, but I'm very happy with the results and feel more connected to the knife having held it for those many hours :P Looking forward to more knives 101!

I personally would like to see a video on the tools are best for honing what knife shapes and what steels

Rob have you tried the blue loctite in gel form? I love it no waste at all you have to try it....

Hey Rob, great intro vid!. You may have already been planning on discussing this, but maybe discuss the patina on slipjoints and folders with tool steel, what it is, what it does, how to do a forced patina, and also how to keep those steels polished if you wish to keep a patina from developing

Great Idea for video series! I know the other day I was just thinking of asking you at what point do you suggest re-flattening your edge pro stones. I have the kit to do it and have re-worked my stones but i think everyone is different at what point they do it. If and when in the future if you could do a care and maintenance video for the edge pro it would be greatly appreciated.

I Really love tuf glide!

do you know if the daiwa oil is food safe?

Hey brother, which brand of stop do you use? And which compounds? Thanks in advance!

Hey Rob, do you ever use whetstones? I know your Edge Pro uses something similar right?

For Christmas I got a sharpening system called the KME precision knife sharpening system. I am wondering if you have ever heard about or used this system and what you would have to say about it. I tried it out once attempting to re profile my balisong after stonewashing the blade and just got really impatient with it, probably made the knife a whole ounce lighter with all the metal I took off.

Are you still primarily using your Edge Pro system?

ApostleP hey I live in northwest Indiana too! Is there any knife shops in the area??

So basically there’s a lot of over engineered products(lubricants) our there. Good to know because I new to it all.

Hoppes oil. The classic.

I've had good luck with Outer's gun oil. I have it anyway for my guns.

as a newbee thanks i was using wd40 as use all my knifes on a boat but understand now lub thing better and am going to try gun oil or mobil one

Fantastic video Apostle! Very informative. Question: short of taking the knife apart what is the best way to flush out any tuf-glide or other unwanted material from your pivot? Is wd-40 ok for that? Would you then follow with a water rinse to clear the wd-40? My manix 2 became the proverbial slow squeaky gate after an earlier experiment with tuf-glide. Prior to that mistaken endeavor, it had the action of your PM 2. Never again.

can I use skate board bearing oils to lubricate

The video was not too long. Thanks

Would like to see the touch up process, Please.

What exactly is "Lock Tight" for, and how is it used?

That's for sure you know a lot about nice that when you went out and did a demonstration and literally almost had a heart attack comparing an axe with a Bowie funny to say the least

What is the number one task you use your knifes for?

If you're really concerned about cancer, you might want to use that acetone outdoors or at least in a well ventilated area. I don't know how the workers in nail salons put up with that aroma all day!

WD40 may cause the knife to rust, if it is used as a storage lubricant. it is slightly acidic. not recommended for use other then to oil rusted metal, and even then wipe it and use some other oil, such as gun oil for example.

5:32 brass tacks

Somebody shops at Walgreens =D

Dry film lubricants have there place and are good for some things knife pivots are not one of them

Sounds like your knife bearing was DIRTY before lubrcating!! Clean before oiling!

If you want a foodsafe oil, simply use jojoba oil. You can also use it as a skin moisturizer. So, where does the notion of using jojoba come from? Lie-Nielsen Tools.

A. Don't cut yourself B. Don't use Tuff glide C. Don't cut yourself