Brilliant idea on the stand. You could also easily clamp it almost anywhere with that stand. Your idea on the hardened bushing is also on the right track. Even though they may advertise those shears capable of cutting bar stock, bolts, thicker metal I still think I would dedicate that shear to sheet metal. You get high marks for critical thinking and problem solving. Thank you for another video.
Gday, definitely an improvement, modifying the handle I think will be well worth it, the idea of mounting it in the arbor press is brilliant, thanks for sharing, cheers
Nice stand. I have a very large vise mounted to a very heavy rotating floor mounted base. Because my shop is small I've made similar bases for a number of infrequently used tools. In my case the lower flange of the i-beam has to be narrowed to clear the inside of the vise under the 8" jaws. Once I clamp the vise on the tool base it's really solid. When I'm done the tool goes back on a shelf/rack. Might help a number of people with space limited shops. Thanks again.
i own a similar knockoff Chinese shear, i ended up buying an assortment of hardened bushings from MSC for the sizes i commonly use (1/8. 3/16,1/4), and it works wonders. i highly recommend removing the blade retaining bolts and adding locktight or they will frequently work their way loose
Good video. You need a little clearance between the bushing and the blade. Not too much, about .010/.012 should do it. The general rule in tool and die work is 10 to 15 percent of the material thickness. Needs to cut about 1/3 through the material then fracture.
@@WinkysWorkshop Sounds like you’ve got it about right. Look at the edges of any flat washer to see the shear and fracture. Too close clearance greatly increases the shearing force.
Video popped up on my feed. I bought one of those shears long ago from ENCO. Don't recall if it has a rod shear hole. Have to look, I bought a used Diacro rod shear years ago. I just love it. Having the correct hole for rod size is important for a clean shear. Mostly cut 1/4 316SS and 3/16" 17-4 for products. Messing up and getting rod in a large hole makes the end look off and not a clean cut. II built a little side table for my ENCO shear. Nothing fancy just a bent SS flat plate. Have to go look at old videos, not been getting notified.
Mark, I like the idea of the quick mount for it on the arbor press. Also, good idea using the drill bushing. Got It to work correctly it should have matching dies for the diameters being cut. You can cut a lot of the smaller diameters on a band saw in the time it takes to make the other dies. Thanks for bringing us along.
@@WinkysWorkshop It would be neat if you could thread the bolt into the bushing and shorten the threads like you can cut machine screws with wire stripper plyers. Regular bolt cutters have a compound action that multiplies the force.
I like it too! Thanks for doing the review, and fallow up fixin. As I expected as with any of CCP Exports Inc. “ Some fixin required”. I had been looking at a sheer at Northern Tool, just need to compare the two and make a decision. Thanks again.
Great outcome Winky. Just a passing thought, I expect the bolt was tensile maybe 8.8 if there is ever a number stamped on the head then it is tensile and is harder to cut. Plain heads are usually mild steel as China seems to use a lot as they are cheaper. There are several different tensile numbers, 8.8 is the common one. Regards from Australia.
I would not try to cut a grade 2 or above. So far it seems to do okay on grade 1 bolts but you may be right. Unless I modify the handle it requires too much effort anyway. I'll probably stick to 1/4" or less (rod or bolts)
Drill an acentric bushing and press in with the hole on the bottom, you will get more leverage with the handle and still have the shearing action at a different part of the stroke
When i was working as a contractor. Nestle foods had a large one of these in there fab shop. There was a sign telling you not to cut anything hard like high tensile steel. Just wonder how hard the bolt was Winky. Just a thought. The Vevor stuff seems to be at the higher end of the Chinesium made stuff. I have a rotary table of their's & it is very good. A diesel heater on order too (video coming soon. ). So look after it & it should look after you for some time to come. Regards. Steve.
You might be right about the bolt. What I was cutting is not the high grade but harder than mild steel I think. I don't use the feature much anyway. I have a bench mount bolt cutter that works easier. Vevor is hit and miss on quality. This sheer works great. I have an Mill table by Vevor on the drill press that has great castings but the lead screws and bracket a terrible.
That's a good idea, maybe I should make a hardened bushing for mine too! I have one just like that sold under the Magnum brand that's common at KMS Tools here in Canada.
Could you use the press to help cut bolts? Make an attachment for the press to push down the cutter? In the intro I thought that is what you are doing! Keep up the good work!
This shear has a very strong return spring. It was a bit annoying, so I removed it. It gives a better feeling with less resistance. The spring is probably a safety feature ? This should be considered before removing the spring. For this reason I insert at bolt through the hole after finished work and especially when moving the shear to a new location, so the handle and knife is secured.
Yeah.... I can see how that would change the feel. I have an Opel car with a strong gas peddle spring. When I replaced it I felt like it has way more power. Sort of the same.
Excellent fix and clever stand. Could you have case hardened the bushing that came with it? ... and then somehow mounted it with a spacer to get it up against the blade?
@@WinkysWorkshop this old tony did did something similar. i just tapped a bunch of holes in a peice of angle. used the holes for milling machine style hold downs. this thing is great. could use a better paint job though.
I agree, it doesn't need to cut larger than 5/16" although adapting the handle so I could put my body weight on the lever would help a lot. I was pully mostly toward myself. I was a little concerned with it sliding out of the throat of my arbor press or worse, turning over the arbor press. I need to bolt it to the floor... or maybe the wall.
I understand. They are a strange mix. Most often a product will have good features and construction in some areas but they make significant errors in other areas. The lack of hardened bushing for cutting rod is a good example. I also did a video on their mill table. The castings were very good but they messed up with the lead screws. However, with the addition of a DRO the mill table will be better than most other on the market. I added dials and new lead screws to mine but the DROs would be much easier. I'm happy with both products.
Yes it seems like this is usually the case. It always surprises me how they overlook easy to fix items. I'm guessing the additional cost to harden a pushing would be minimal.
Grade 2 bolts, the most common, is the same as 1018 cold rolled. The bolts actually cut easier than rod. However, even after modifying the sheer I use bolt cutter.
@@MrSims-ky2ne The Zinc makes no difference... very soft. I'd say you are right about the case hardening but it can not be much with low carbon steel. I never cut bolts or rod now. It a great sheer but bolt cutters work better for the rods or bolts.
@Winky's Workshop it really depends where the bolts came from 😅 I've got a rod parter for soft material and I just zip anything hard with an abrasive cutoff quick usually I wouldn't mind one of these shears but I may just hold out for a used beverly keep up the awesome videos and ideas!
